Tag: Guides

After visiting 42 countries, I’ve learned a thing or two about what makes a place special and how to experience it meaningfully. These practical guides share the kind of specific, tested advice I wish I’d had when I was starting out—from navigating Indian railways to finding the best breakfast spots in small New Zealand towns.

  • A First Timers Guide to Indian Railways Sleeper Class

    Have you been dreaming of a luxury railway journey across foreign lands? Delectable curries, silver service, and a turndown service each night? Bad news my friend – keep searching, as the Indian Railways Sleeper Class is definitely not what you’ve been looking for.

    On the other hand – if real, authentic experiences are what you’re seeking, then I have just the ticket for you (quite literally)

    Welcome to Indian Railways, Sleeper Class.

    I get it, sleeper class sounds kind of exotic – an overnight train. I also had misguided visions of the orient express from time to time. However, sleeper class is the second-to-last tier in a list of different cabins available and affords a budget ticket price and a chance to experience a more normal standard of Indian life.

    Benefits of Sleeper Class:

    • You get to hang out with families, and learn about the local culture.
    • There is no air conditioning, which means the breeze comes through the open windows which is quite nice!
    • There’s so much vibrancy, noise, sounds & music – this cabin is so much more alive than the AC cabins above it.
    • Street vendors are allowed to enter this part of the train, so you are frequented with the friendly neighbourhood chaiwallah and other tasty snacks & drinks throughout your journey.

    Pitfalls of Sleeper Class:

    • It can be really crowded. Although you will get the bunk to yourself overnight, during the day each bench sits 3-5 people and it can be quite the squeeze.
    • There is no air conditioning – which some people really prefer.
    • The vibrancy, noise, sounds & music can be intense at times, and if you’re looking for a very peaceful, quiet, relaxing trip then this can impede upon that
    • The security isn’t as tight – because street vendors are hopping on and off, and because the seats are so busy with people, there can be a lot more petty theft so it’s important to be extra vigilant with your belongings.

    Welcome aboard – I expect if this is your first time in India, then you might not have laid eyes upon something as well-run and efficient, yet so insane and chaotic, as the Indian railways.

    During my time in Northern India I spent around 40 hours navigating the overnight Rajasthan railway systems, and I can happily report I had (mostly) wonderful experiences, and it was the best way to really experience Indian culture and life. The key is to be well prepared in advance, and know what to expect. It makes all the difference, and seriously arms you for an enjoyable rail journey around the state of Rajasthan (or anywhere in India, for that matter!) 

    India Sleeper Train

    Rajasthan Rail Travel Route

    During my one month journey into the popular Northern state of Rajasthan, I caught 4 different overnight trains (and numerous daytime ones & busses too)

    1. Took the 6 hour JSL express from Delhi to Jaipur  class: sleeper price: 205 rs. time: 1735-2335
    2. Then the 12 hour JSL express from Jaipur to Jaisalmer class: AC3 but upgraded to AC2  price: 905rs  time: 2335-1135
    3.  The 5 hour Leelan Express from Jaisalmer to Bikaner  class: sleeper price: 268 rs. time: 23:55-05:20
    4. And finally the ~15 hour BKN HW Special from Bikaner to Haridwar class: sleeper price: 508 rs. time: 19:45-10:25

    Despite having traveled via train across numerous countries, all of my locomotive experience at this point had been during the day (needless to say, this was before my Overland Asia adventure). To say the least, I was super excited to spend my first overnight night on the rails!

    New Delhi station is huge and chaotic. As I had no particular travel plans, just a glimmer of an idea, I didn’t book a ticket in advance. It took me quite a lot of wandering around this massive station to find the tourist office, but in the end I found it.

    The ticket I wanted to take me through to Jaisalmer was not available, so on a whim I picked up a cheap, last minute ticket to Jaipur instead.

    My train left from Old Delhi station, rather than New Delhi where I was.

    Pro Tip: It’s a good thing to pay careful attention to the particular station you need to depart from – there’s often more than one in big cities

    Passing time wandering around the area of Old Delhi was hot and sweaty, topped off by loads of dust and an abundance of over-enthusiastic touts and hawkers.

    I sat down on a rickety plastic table and gorged myself on 40r rupee all-you-can-eat thali.

    There was no WiFi around and I had no plan for my midnight arrival into Jaipur.

    Scattered moments and view from inside the sleeper class carriage

    Making a Plan – Not So Easy without WiFI

    Once at the platform I found a McDonalds and sat outside it to get some WiFi. Luckily for me, a sweet young McDonalds worker spied me and came outside to usher me in. No purchase needed, in fact he even used his Indian phone number to register me on the WiFi 

    Pro Tip: Free WiFi is available in most Indian train stations, but you will need an Indian phone number to activate it.

    I managed to book myself into Zostel in Jaipur and message a friend of mine staying there, asking him to advise the reception of my late arrival.

    India Trains: Sometimes Early, Sometimes Very, Very Late

    Before I knew it I was starting to run late. Time to rush to the platform. By the time I arrive, guys are taking down the reservations paperwork from the boards. They speak no English but signal to me that the train just left. Feeling exhausted and defeated I head to the newsagents, informing the vaguely English speaking guy that my train left 10mins early. What do I do? No. It hasn’t left, it turns out. Just a different platform that’s not mentioned on any of the signs.

    Useful to Note: I have since met people who’ve missed trains because they did in fact leave early. Up to two hours early. (And sometimes they are late by as much at 8 or 9 hours, too) Always check the running times earlier in the day on the Indian Railways website or Cleartrip app!

    Boarding the Train into Sleeper Class

    These trains are seriously long, with carriages stretching out toward the horizon. Where do I sit?  I pondered, wondering in and out of various carriages, getting sent every-which-way by other passengers. A mess of arms and pointing fingers leading me in a slew of different directions.

    Without so much as a whistle, the train starts rolling away.. So, like something out of a bad film, I grab a handrail and haul myself on board just as it pulls out of the station.

    After much wandering and enquiring I finally find my carriage. It’s a old, rickety, and made up of mostly chains and bars, but it’s clean enough.

    I get a rush of excitement.. there’s nobody else here, maybe get this berth to myself! No such luck, as people pack in over the next few stations. 4-5 people each bench, piled up on the higher beds. Once we’re snuggly fitted into our spots, we begin to roll out through slums. The atmosphere both in and outside of the carriage is colourful and alive.

    The lack of air conditioning on board is fine with the breeze coming through the window. The sun begins to set and I settle in to enjoy a book. It’s a little cramped and I’m thankful for my three bottles of water and window seat. Later in the evening they will come to pull down the beds, and it won’t be so busy.

    A bunk to myself is luxury and I stretch out to enjoy the ride – my first experience travelling sleeper class.

     Key tips & takeaways for sleeper class travel:

    • You can often get last minute seats by being flexible and checking into the tourist counter on the day
    • Beware of touts who try and convince you not to go to the tourist desk
    • Check your PNR on the Clear trip or Indian Rail app a few times in advance for signs of trains running early (yes, it happens) late (considerably, often) or for spontaneous upgrades to your ticket

    Things to bring when travelling sleeper class:

    • Make sure to bring a chain or bikelock to lock your back safely away while you sleep. Tip: I have a simple plastic-coated bike lock which does a fantastic job, and costs a fraction of the price of speciality travel-locks from travel stores. This is one item you can definitely cut costs on. 
    • Sleeper class is an excellent way to experience the real India experience, but BYO blankets and pillows! Tip: If you’re limited on space (like me) I take a pillowcase or laundry bag and stuff it full of my clean scarves and sweaters to create a pillow on the go. 
    • My sleeping liner is an absolute godsend. It provides a safe space to curl up in, and provides added privacy as your legs won’t pop out in the night. Tip: I have a bug-proof treated one that is antibacterial and has a pocket inside to keep my important smaller bits and pieces safe and secure. I currently have a cotton one, which works well, but the silk ones are even nicer (and way smaller/lighter)  
    • Except on certain routes, food is not provided. The selections at the train station are lacking in imagination, so bring something tasty of your own.
    View out the window leaving Old Delhi train station

    Useful Sites, Blogs & Apps:

    Cleartrip – A must-have for foreign visitors, simplifies the booking system with an easy-to-use app, and lets you book using international credit cards. You’ll still need an IRCRS account to use it, however.

    IRCRS – The official Indian Railways ticket booking website. You’ll need to sign up here to book any trains through the internet (or for using other apps such as cleartrip) But can be clunky and difficult to navigate. Once registered you’re better off moving over to a more user friendly app.

    Confirmtkt – Ultimate in useful apps for booking waitlist tickets, or finding alternate routes (including busses). Uses a fantastic algorithm to calculate the chances of you getting on a particular train, and also provides a host of other handy features such as setting an alarm for when the train pulls into your desired station.

    Train Travel in India, a Beginners Guide by Seat61

    Tips For Traveling India by Train Solo by Hippie in Heels

    How to survive sleeper trains in India by The Travel Hack

    Five Tips for Traveling India by Train by Bootsnall

  • A Trip Across Mongolia

    My borderline obsession with railway journeys was a seed planted by my father. Moving overland feels like you’re putting in the miles to get somewhere. It gives you a sense of time and space, a glimpse of the legwork required to traverse between two places.

    Trans Mongolia Express, Departing from Beijing

    Up until this point I’d taken some overnight and long distance trains, but nothing which was quite as well known as the Trans-Mongolian. On first impressions, the train is exactly how one would expect. Forest green, each carriage embossed in gold with its final destination. A long beast of a locomotive that knows its place as one of the world’s greatest railways.

    Much unlike its Chinese counterparts, hard sleeper is soft and somewhat luxurious. Each sleeper cabin houses 2 sets of bunks, and we got the good luck of no room-mates for our entire journey, leaving us with an entire cabin to ourselves.

    The halls are narrow with intermittent fold down single chairs and coveted electrical outlets, perfect for recharging phones and kindles throughout such a long journey. Long doesn’t even quite describe it – We booked in to travel for 26 hours. The train would continue on without us for another 5 days through Siberia and on to St Petersburg and Moscow.

    A Cozy Carriage Home for Two

    A sliding door reveals our home for the night – a cozy cabin with a large window, a luxurious two whole blankets per person, and a table situated between the two bottom berths. Where each carriage joins to the next houses a bathroom, hot-water boiler for topping up endless cup noodles and flasks of jasmine tea, and a coal range stove to heat the carriages through the wintery depths of Siberia.

    After making ourselves comfortable, the cabin attendant arrived with a voucher for two complimentary meals in the dining cart. A welcome surprise.

    The cart ambled out of the station, and we began to inch our way out of Beijing city & toward the Chinese border. We were treated to forest green hills with deep creases etched in, cavernous gorges, valleys and bright yellow fields of blossoming rapeseed as the sprawling metropolis of Beijing faded into the distance.

    A Journey from China to Mongolia

    As we approached the Gobi, mainland China gave way to Inner Mongolia (deceptively named, it is still a part of China). The landscapes morphed into dusty vistas. Small villages feature dilapidated camel-coloured houses, co-ordinated to match the surrounding sands. Disappearing deeper into China’s final frontier, we were enveloped by an orange sunset dissolving into an inky sky, and the ominous silhouettes of wind turbines before finally lurching into darkness.

    The dining cart resembled an old film. Regal, foreign and heaving with people grasping meal vouchers, fluttering in the breeze. The first day’s meals are included, and then you’re on your own. Fine by me, I thought, as remembered that we would be departing the following day. Whisked away in a manner of efficiency not uncommon in China, we were wedged into the next two available seats. Moments later a hurried waiter appeared, serving up a plate of flavourful vegetables on rice. After a rushed dinner, I retired to the cabin with my latest purchase under my arm – a cheap bottle of unusually flavoured Great Wall wine to complement our equally unusual bottle of Chinese Plum Wine (spoiler alert : nothing at all like the delicious Japanese plum wine I’d been hoping for)

    China, Mongolia, Russia – One Train, Three Different Types of Track

    In the glow of questionable Chinese alcohol and an evening of trying to remember card games, I drifted off to sleep in my bottom bunk, somewhere before the Mongolian frontier. One of the curiosities of this particular journey is the varying sizes of tracks between the three travelled countries. The bigger question is why they haven’t invested the time and money in remedying this. Instead, with each crossing, three hours is spent hoisting the train up, carriage by carriage, and changing the entire wheelset.

    For many arriving unprepared, it is at this precise moment where hilarity ensues (for readers and spectators, that is).

    As the train heads for a wheelbase change, it first stops at a station platform with a small, enticing cafe. Many an unsuspecting tourist has hopped off, to be left in dismay as the train pulls away. Without a word of warning, it leaves the passengers stranded for hours in the night, unsure if it will ever return for them. Eventually, it does. Leaving a trail of legends whispered through the carriage.. “don’t get off at the border station cafe”.

    Snoozing through the border crossing

    I dozed as customs and quarantine officers came in to pick up and drop off various paperwork. Each time opening the door and leaving the light on as they leave. The visitors subsided and I drifted off into a very comfortable sleep for the night.

    Light peered through the window and I craned my head up to check that I wasn’t missing anything. It was before dawn and I was in time to catch the moon setting outside my window. Venturing out into the carriage hall, I stopped to watch the sunrise out of the other side of the cabin, warming myself by the roaring coal range. The temperatures in the Gobi desert were well below zero, but the train was so well heated, I never even used the thick extra blanket.

    • Corridor-of-trans-mongolia-train
      Corridor-of-trans-mongolia-train
    • Wheels-getting-changed-at-china-mongolia-border
      Wheel changing time!
    • Train-wheelbase
      More wheel changing

    Arrival into Ulaanbataar

    The rest of the journey was relaxing and uneventful. A brand new dining cart awaited us for breakfast – it’s not just the wheels they change here. The car is of traditional Mongolian style, with intricate dark wood carving and Mongolian artwork. A new menu has appeared with its prices in Tugriks. I enjoy many coffees and fried eggs on toast while watching the Mongolia desert stream past.

    As we got closer to Ulaanbaatar, the view became less sparse. Tiny, weary villages; herds of horses and the odd speck of a nomadic Ger or two materialize out the window. As we careened past frozen rivers it was difficult not to imagine that this is the kind of country where time moves differently.

    After another few hours of rolling, sparse grasslands and frozen rivers, we slowed our pace and rolled into UlanBaatar station, the capital city of Mongolia, where we were being met outside our carriage & escorted over to our rental apartment for the week.

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  • Discovering the Most Magical Beaches of the Oaxaca Coast

    Sometimes at night I would wake up, frantic with a desire to get back to Mexico. To finally explore the Oaxaca Coast I’d wanted to visit for so long, to soak myself in the pacific ocean and fill myself with tacos. It’s all I could think about.

    At the intercept of two relationships: one coming, one going; I found myself stuck. I had rented an apartment in Melbourne, purchased some furniture then within a few short months realised I wasn’t yet ready to give up the wandering nomad life I’d come to know and had desperate cravings to jump back on a plane and never look back.

    My leap towards the Oaxacan coastline involved an urgent dash to find new tenants to take my lease, and thankfully amidst my whirlwind chaos of unsettled life and new beginnings those new tenants wanted to buy my furniture, too.

    It was a lucky escape, for a second there I almost became a normal person who lived in one place.

    Instead, once again I became a wanderer. First stop? The Oaxaca Coast of Mexico.

    View out over Puerto Escondido

    Bahías de Huatulco

    There are a number of ways to get to the Oaxaca coast, the most popular are the larger Puerto Escondido airport, the smaller Huatulco Airport, or by land from Oaxaca City.

    In this case, the flights into Huatulco suited me best.

    Huatulco is a small town, that these days is primarily a tourist development. I had visited Huatulco a few years back on a vacation with my mum where we had a charming stay at the Hotel Plaza Delphinus, sipped margaritas by the ocean and enjoyed an excellent snorkelling trip with Oaxaca Expediciones – I would recommend all of the above activities for a visit to the Huatulco beaches.

    Nevertheless, Huatulco was merely a transit point on this occasion as I made my way onwards to other Oaxaca beaches.

    Leaving Bahias De Huatulco International Airport

    Regular visitors say you can save yourself some cash by completely exiting the airport complex and walking across the road for a taxi, or, you can do as I did and decide you’re exhausted from the journey so far (I’d flown Australia to Los Angeles to here so far in this day) and book an airport offical taxi from inside the terminal.

    Expensive being a relative term – the hour long drive costs a mere fraction of what the taxi to the airport in Australia did.

    Margaritas on the beach are a popular past time at all the different Oaxaca Coast beaches
    Margaritas on the beach are a popular past time at all the different Oaxaca Coast beaches

    Mazunte Pueblo Magico

    After a hair raising cab right down into Mazunte, dotted with breathtaking vistas down over the Oaxaca coastline, I reached my new home base for the moment. A town I’d not before visited, but many friends before me had done and highly recommended Mazunte for the yoga culture, beautiful beaches and alternative atmosphere.

    I was besotted, immediately.

    Mazunte is home to the Mexican National Mexican Turtle Center
    Mazunte is home to the Mexican National Mexican Turtle Center

    It was not just my own firmly held belief – Mazunte really is magical. It is registered as one of around 120 Pueblos Magicos, towns recognised by the Mexican government for their special, or magical qualities.

    Staying in Mazunte

    Whilst in Mazunte I stayed at Posada Olivo. It was a paradise of an accomodation, and I adored every moment. Marco was such a kind and helpful host, who taught me a lot about how many Italians have come to the Oaxaca Coast and made it their home – which is why there is so much excellent pizza in the region!

    Posada Olivo is located conveniently between the main Mazunte beach, and San Agustnillo – which is a different town, but essentially joined at the hip so you can easily walk between the two.

    Playa san Agustnillo, Oaxaca

    Eating out in Mazunte

    Every day was a new discovery of something delicious (and often very healthy, thanks to the prolific yoga crowd who hang out here) Mazunte offers no shortage of great juices, smoothies, fresh fish tacos, and ceviche.

     Restaurantte Sahuaro was my favourite for fish tacos, as well as their amazing grilled tuna & different rice/vege salad bowls. I ate here most days. But when I wanted a break from the Mazunte health kick vibe and was looking for more stock standard local Mexican, I made my way to Tacos El Mazunte for great tacos & tlayudas

    • Sweet signage outside a Mazunte laundry service
    • Sleepy dog chilling out in Mazunte

    Learning Spanish in Mazunte

    I studied Spanish every day at the El Instituto Iguana Spanish School. It was my favourite language school experience I’ve had so far and I would return again in an instant, given the chance.

    The incredible space of the Instituto Iguana Spanish School

    Playa San Agustinillo

    Tucked away right next door to Mazunte is the equally delightful Playa San Agustinillo where I passed many a day – margarita in one hand, foraged book in the other.

    You see, I left my kindle somewhere onboard my inbound flight to Mexcico and lost it forever. In the small coastal Oaxacan towns I was in, there were no electronic shops and I didn’t have a long term postal address to shop online.

    So instead, I enjoyed picking up second hand books in English whenever I could find them, and made good use of the different hostel and hotel book exchange shelves everywhere I went.

    Finding books in San Agustinillo

    I’m telling you this because San Agustinillo has the most delightful bookstore of anywhere in the region, and they have a well stocked shelf in English for those of us who are still grappling with their Spanish.

    So if you’re in the area, get yourself to Nómada Librería for a delicious coffee & some new reading materials.

    Coffee & Breakfast in San Agustinillo

    Another delight in San Agustinillo is the café El sueño de Frida, introduced to me by Marco at my hotel, this cafe is run by a fellow Italian and friend of his.

    Cristina is kind, fun, and full of tips & information in the area. The cafe itself has some great books and travel guides, not to mention that her breakfast foods are super delicious.

    I passed many a morning munching on fruits or chilaquiles, planning my day out exploring or diving into a good book.

    Welcome to Playa San Agustinillo, paradise (and margaritas) await you
    Welcome to Playa San Agustinillo, paradise (and margaritas) await you

    Puerto Escondido

    Leaving Mazunte wasn’t my intention, I had hoped to stay for a month or two and find myself a little bungalow.

    At that time, Mazunte was still mostly receiving its internet by a mobile/radio link – which, as you can imagine, makes the internet speeds required by my work near impossible. There were, at that very moment, a handful of places who had just leapt on the new internet technology that arrived in this small town early 20189 – but none of them had any last minute vacancies during the current tourist season.

    The promise of faster connections and coworking spaces lured me over to the bigger town of Puerto Escondido, an hour up the coast.

    Lazy days under the palms on San Agustinillo beaches
    Lazy days under the palms
    Gorgeous street art everywhere you turn

    Coworking in Puerto Escondido

    The easiest choice was the local Selina. If you’ve not travelled and attempted to work at the same time from Central America, you may not have encountered a Selina before.

    They are a hybrid of coworking and coliving, with a range of dorm and private rooms, along with separate coworking passes. They can be quite pricy compared to alternative accomodation + coworking options, but they are also generally very nice places to be.

    For some of my stay in Puerto Escondido I stayed and worked from the Selina and it was pretty idyllic. Beach front and full of chill out spaces and various pools, I would stay there again happily if I were passing through.

    Gorgeous Chill Out space at Selina Puerto Escondido

    Playa Bacocho

    As a wildlife enthusiast, nothing delighted me more than taking part in releasing tiny baby sea turtles, hatched just that day, out into the grand Pacific ocean.

    Learning about the relentless conservation efforts of the volunteers who work through the day, and patrol the beaches right through the night, to protect these precious turtles from predators and poachers.

    There are a few places to be involved with sea turtles on the Oaxacan coast, but Playa Bacocho is the most accessible. The teeny tiny turtles are released each day at 5pm, and if you pay a 100mx donation to the charity you get given your own little turtle (for a few moments, anyhow) to love, cherish & name before gently releasing from their protective coconut shell (oils on our hands can damage their delicate young skin, so it’s best not to touch them directly) out on the sand for them to make their way down to the sea.

    It’s an emotional rollercoaster as seabirds swoop and dive around to try and pick themselves up a baby turtle for dinner. So a lot of the process is throwing things into the air to deter the seabirds from getting their beaks around one of our beloved releases.

    The whole experience lasts no more than an hour, but is quite emotional to free a wild animal out into the wild like this.

    Baby sea turtle release at Playa Bacocho is an unforgettable experience

    Playa Carrizalillo

    The magical Playa Carrizalillo was everything I had dreamed of in a Mexican beach. Soft, golden sand, hedged by greenery, warm waters and the best sunsets.

    It is the next most popular beach in Puerto Escondido after Playa Zicatela, but it’s all for a good reason – it’s well worth the trip to spend a day.

    Playa Carrizalillo Sunsets – pure magic!

    The best fish tacos in Puerto Escondido

    Smoked fish taco was suggested as the best fish tacos around, which was all too conveniently placed just a few minutes walk from my room at Casa Losodeli and an easy stroll from Playa Carrizalillo, too.

    The tacos were, as promised, excellent. they were some of the best fish tacos I’ve ever had.

    Smoked Fish tacos near Playa Carrizalillo have some of the best fish tacos I’ve ever tasted (and I’ve travelled for tacos – extensively!)

    Puerto Angelito

    I adore snorkelling, and was on a mission to find the best snorkelling beaches in town. I was assured there were plenty, but my best bet would be to check out Puerto Angelito for the calmest waters and the most sheltered bay.

    That advice was not wrong. Puerto Angelito is snorkeling paradise – it’s also home to some lovely beachfront bars and restaurants, as well as a jump point for boat trips.

    The highlight of Puerto Angelito was the morning sea safari with Omar’s Sportfishing (despite the name, no fishing is involved in this tour) where we set out at dawn for three hours on the water spotting dolphins, sea turtles and humpback whales.

    Truly magical Playa Angelito - one of the Oaxaca Coast's true gems
    Truly magical Playa Angelito – one of the Oaxaca Coast’s true gems

    Playa Zicatela

    Playa Zicatela is the most popular beach in Puerto Escondido, it’s long and has some of the best surfing in Mexico– drawing a huge crowd of surfers & pro surfer competitions throughout the year.

    I spent half of my time in Puerto Escondido located near Playa Carrizalillo, and the other half right on the doorstep of Playa Zicatela – they have such a different vibe from one another that it’s almost like being in completely different cities.

    Zicatela is where Selina Coworking and Coliving space is, and the streets are lined with juicebars and surf shops. It’s much less of a local feel, and more of a beachy, surfer, tourist vibe – but that can be a really nice thing too.

    Playa Zicatela sunset
    Playa Zicatela sunsets are out of this world – so beautiful
    Welcome to the Oaxaca Coast
    Dawn waves out on a dolphin spotting boat trip

    Would I return to the Oaxaca Coast?

    In a heartbeat, yes.

    The state of Oaxaca already captured my heart, many times before – visiting the coastline did nothing other than amplify the feelings.

    When the world is safe to travel again, I hope to find my way back again. To experience the true magic of the Oaxaca coast over, and over, and over again.

    Sunset, Playa Zicatela Puerto Escondido
    Beautiful sunset out over Playa Zicatela

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  • Notes from my (former) flight attendant life

    Anna the flight attendant? Yeah, right! Aviation was not an industry I had ever imagined myself involved in. Unlike many who spend their whole lives dreaming of working in the skies, I had always had other plans for my life. So many, in fact, that I almost had a new career plan for each day of the year.

    Doctor, Skydive Instructor and Radio DJ topped the wish-list at various points in my life. Chef, med school dropout, volunteer ambulance officer and graphic designer had made it onto the ‘been there, done that’ pile. Flight attendant was one of the few job titles that had never really caught my eye. So you can imagine it came as quite the surprise to find myself vacuum backed into that tight red dress, slathered in a cocktail of lipstick and hairspray, learning the ropes of emergency evacuations over water.

    Truth be told, I was a little lost. I had wanted out of the city I had spent most of my life living in, and I felt a passion for travel. Other than that I had absolutely no clue, or any savings to leave with. That was, of course, until I saw the job listing. Within 6 months of applying, I had my wings and was a fully-fledged short-haul international flight attendant.

    Suddenly the world opened up to me, I was living in a bigger city and spending my life traveling. A normal Saturday night for me might be spent going out for dinner in Sydney followed by a lazy Sunday afternoon poolside in Fiji.

    My flight attendant career spanned about four years – which is quite a long time in my world of relentless retraining and career hopping. By the time I handed in my wings I was ready to move onto other adventures, but I picked up a few & memories notes along the way

    1. Don’t eat the crew meals. Number one rule! It’s hard enough to eat properly when your always on the road, but crew meals are designed to have added salt and sugar. (Check out this article from the BBC on why food tastes bad at altitude, and how catering companies add extra salt and flavouring to make up for it) 

    2. Diet coke is the most time consuming, foamy, mess of a drink to pour into a cup at altitude thanks to the artificial sweeteners, and to top it all off – it tastes a little odd up there too thanks to our altered ability to taste.

    3.Carry dry bags. Having to stash your wet swimsuit in your suitcase on the second day of a five day trip does not to nice things to your clean clothes. Or, for that matter, the overall atmosphere of your suitcase. Same deal with anything that gets muddy, wet, damp, or smelly. Drybags are a lifesaver for frequent travellers, and although it’s been many years since I was working onboard an aircraft, it’s still an essential item I pack on every trip.

    4. Sleep is completely underrated. When I first set out into the flight attendant life, the lure & sometimes pressure of meeting up at the bar was a bit too much. I went too hard and lost out on a lot of sleep. I’m older, and hopefully wiser now and I say – catch up on sleep whenever you can – no matter how tempting all the outings, dinners, and drinks will be. Everyone will be meeting down at the bar again tomorrow night for another round, I promise!

    Lounging poolside in Koh Samui
    Fancy lounging poolside as part of your work week? Look no further.

    5. Invest in the most comfortable shoes you can find. Although high heels are often required when walking about the airport, usually after takeoff the cabin crew get to switch into flat cabin shoes. I would recommend upgrading both as much as the company will allow – when the shin splints and numb toes catch up, often a lot of the damage is done and it can take a long time to recover.

    6. Keep hydrated. The cabin is a really low humidity place to spend a lot of time, so chugging down the waters is always a priority. When I was training, they recommended 500mls per hour, but personally I think more than that is better. Normally I aim for 2 litres of water a day, but I’d increase that even further on flying days!

    7. There will always be passengers who are unhappy about something. No matter how glamorous aviation may sound to those not working in it, it is still a customer service role. You will always get difficult customers, and you can’t please everyone. Don’t let it get to you.

    8. Even when it feels like everything is going wrong, there will always be one person (passenger or crew) who thinks your doing just great – make it your mission to find that person & connect with them to boost your confidence.

    9. Keep the essentials in your cabin bag (underwear, phone charger, wallet), it’s only a matter of time until somebody looses your check-in for the night and it’s nice to be prepared for anything! I also liked to keep a dress in there that rolls small, wrinkle free as an emergency backup change of clothes.

    10. Smile. Always. Not because you have to (although mileage may vary depending on who you work for) – do it because it’ll make you feel better, I promise. (read this article on smiling)

    11. Keep a gratitude diary. Sometimes it’s easy to forget how amazing this job actually is! (also, daily gratitude = amazing thing to get in the habit of) and later on, you will be able to look back even more fondly on this time spent in a great job.

    12. Take the time to learn a new language. You don’t need to be fluent, just being able to communicate a few words is enough to turn an awkward flight of non-english speakers into something fun & that you learn from. (They really appreciate the effort, too)

    13. Keep earplugs and eye masks with you, they always come in handy for those times when you want to catch a few moments rest wherever you are.

    14. Learn more about posture. I’ve strained myself from incorrect lifting and sitting twisted in the back galley with my legs crossed far too many times. Practicing good posture, doing yoga, wearing well fitting shoes – these things all help enormously.

    15. Pack snacks. Things like nuts, seeds, crackers and tinned tuna seem to make it through most country arrival quarantines un-confiscated. Be wary of fresh produce, meats, dairy and honey if you are travelling somewhere with strict biosecurity such as Australia and New Zealand though.

    16. Don’t give buddy passes to people unless it’s an emergency or they understand standby very well. It can get very stressful!

    17. Speaking of staff travel, try not to book yourself on a busy flight home the night before your next duty with no backup plan. It generally ends in an expensive disaster.

    18. One (more) word: Sunscreen.

    19. Passengers will never, ever learn to remain seated until the seatbelt light comes off. It’s an unfortunate, universal truth.

    20. Toiletries with screw on lids are a great investment (there’s only so many times a person can forgive an exploded shampoo bottle amongst their things)

    21. Keep hydration interesting and carry a selection of herbal tea bags with you. Fruit flavoured ones added to a bottle of cold water make a delicious alternative to plain water.

    22.  Protein powder/meal replacement sachets can be a great breakfast, especially at 3am when you know you SHOULD eat, but your stomach has different feelings on the matter.

    23. Don’t become bitter, and never forget to see passengers as people – no matter how obnoxious they become.

    Working as a flight attendant was a truly awesome career, I’m so thankful for all the experiences I was lucky enough to have during this time.

    I met some excellent people and have collected memories I will treasure for a lifetime.

    It’s me, many years back now!

    Ultimately, it wasn’t my forever job. None of them have been so far – but I sure had a great time doing it & it opened up the world of travel and possibilities to me in a way I am eternally grateful.

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  • A Day in Kathmandu | The city of temples in Nepal

    Kathmandu wasn’t exactly love at first sight, well at least not in my case. I’d ridden a thirty-six hour bus trip through the Himalayan foothills from Delhi, vomiting out the window the entire way .

    It had been some bad chicken the day before, It tasted like mud and rotting flesh. I only had a few mouthfuls but I knew already I’d made a poor move. Nevertheless, my Indian visa was about to expire and I had no choice but to board that bus.

    As it turns out, Kathmandu is a vibrant metropolis where old meets new and bicycle rickshaw drivers peddle past goats grazing trash outside the most delicious of restaurants.

    Like my own hometown, it is a city that is overcoming natural disaster, rebuilding after literally earth-shattering quakes brought this majestic city to its knees.

    All in all, I spent over a month in Nepal – dipping in and out of Kathmandu, drinking in all the wonderful food, culture, and hospitality. But it took only a day of exploring to fall in love with it.

    While drifting in these lanes of Thamel, you feel like Alice in Wonderland, The feelings of Paarijat linger as an epiphany
    and the smoke and aroma of incense sticks welcome you into a dream land.

    Avijeet Das @TheAvijeetDas

    First impressions

    “Oh, you’re a writer?”, he nudged. I was somewhat limp in the passenger seat, making my way out of the hospital and bound for my central city hostel. “Here in Nepal we value writers, it is a good profession” .

    It was dusk, and the street vendors were setting up on the side of the road as our taxi stopped and started amidst the evening rush hour. Aside from a churning stomach, it felt good here – relaxed, friendly. A different pace of life from India where I had recently arrived from. He was kind, and reserved, and I eased into a little gentle chatter en route to my Thamel accomodation.

    The first thing most tourists learn about Kathmandu is that Thamel is the main tourist-area. It’s where you’ll find the most shopping, bazaars, hotels and restaurants in Kathmandu. Kathmandu is serviced by an International Airport, although as I did, you can also reach the city via bus from India (Delhi, Varanasi and Gorakpur are the most common places to leave from). At the time of writing, the roads to Tibet are still closed, and Nepal only shares a land border with these two countries so these are your choices.  Nepal has no trains (well none useful to visitors, anyhow) so getting around is by bus, car and taxi.

    My hostel took wonderful care of me, feeding me vegetable broth and mashed potatoes until my stomach healed, upgrading my room and providing marvelous vistas across the city from its rooftop.

    Other than a rather rocky start, I quickly came to love Kathmandu and would recommend it to anyone looking for somewhere a little different to get away to for a day, or much longer.

    When to Visit Kathmandu

    October is Autumn , and the peak season for visiting all of Nepal. The weather is mild and the air is clear from recent monsoons. It is dry but not too cold at night, and generally warm and sunny during the day. It also features Tihar and Dashain, the two main Nepalese festivals of the year. So if you like the atmosphere, this is an excellent time to come over. If you want to avoid the festivals and throngs of tourists, then the springtime, from March until May, is a fabulous time to experience the rhododendrons and other blossoming flowers of Nepal. June-August is summer and also monsoon, so come bearing raincoats! December – February is winter, it can be very cold and snow (but not in Kathmandu). However it can also be very scenic and good for low altitude trekking,

    What to do while you’re here

    Kathmandu is an interesting city to explore, and has a number of areas, temples and markets to explore. Some of the key things to do in Kathmandu are:

    • Hiking, of course! This is one of the main reasons many people visit Nepal, and for good reason – it’s spectacular! There is a lot of hiking in Nepal and you can do it alone, just remember to be safe.
    • Visit Durbar Square to explore historic temples and the temple of the living goddess, although Durbar square is working through some long term earthquake renovations, it is an incredible place to visit. Lining the square are a number of rooftop patio restaurants and bars with wonderful views, too.
    • Stroll the Garden of Dreams for a soothing spot of tranquility amongst the chaos of the city. It’s kind of an oasis, and is well worth checking out after you’re a little burned out from the thamel bustle.
    • Check out Swayambhunath Temple & Boudhanath Stupa to see some of the more ornate and spiritual sites of Kathmandu.
    • Shop for handicrafts in Thamel. Some of the popular wares include pashminas, yak wool blankets, bone, wood and glass jewellery, wooden musical instruments and puppets. I’m not much of a souvenir collector, but was absolutely charmed b the puppets dangling from strings all about the town.
    • FACB A F EDCCBD c
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    If you only eat 3 dishes in Kathmandu…

    Food is absolutely my thing, my motivation you could say. A huge part of the reason I travel is to taste the local foods. Kathmandu is a hub of food and I loved every moment.

    1. Momos, momos, everywhere. Momos are one of my favourite dumplings, and as the years go by I am in perpetual pursuit of momos as good as I found on the streets of Kathmandu (spoiler alert, no such luck) you can find them fried, steamed, or my favourite version: Chilli Momo – doused in a chilli sauce or soup. You can find them just about anywhere, but my favourite come from the street cart vendors.
    2. Nepalese Thali Plate
    3. Simi Nariwal. Simi means green beans, nariwal means coconut – combined with some curry paste and served on rice it’s something magical. My favourite is found out in Pokhara, but there’s certainly some good Simi Nariwal to be had in Kathmandu, so seek it out!
    • Chilli Momos
      Chilli Momos
    • Nepalese Thali
      Nepalese Thali
    • Simi Narawal
      Simi Narawal

    Where did I stay?

    Kathmandu is the hub of Nepal and there are no shortages of accommodation, especially within the area of Thamel. It is definitely possible to turn up and look for somewhere to stay once you arrive. However, if you feel more comfortable booking in advance, I can personally recommend:

    • Katshmandap Travelers Home: What I believe to be the best hostel in Kathmandu, great for dorm-style living and meeting other travelers. I arrived here after a traumatic long bus journey with food poisoning that resulted in a few nights in the hospital. Katshmandap moved me into a private room at no extra charge, and checked on me every day to make sure I was recovering well – I will never forget the generosity or hospitality, nor how safe and cared for I felt during my recovery.
    • Bright Star Hotel: It’s the owners that made Bright Star hotel so special for me – in fact, I stayed twice. Once on my own, then again when my family came to visit Nepal. We were treated with so much kindness, and they have private rooms at a good price. Clean and safe and super central in Thamel, but down a side road so few steps out of the way from the noise & chaos
    • Papaya House: Unbelievably good value and gorgeous, comfortable, clean rooms. Good WiFi too. A little out of the way so you need to catch taxis or local busses to get just about anywhere, but it’s great to experience a more local neighborhood of Kathmandu.

    So, what was my experience in Kathmandu like?

    • Nepal is home to some of the friendliest people I’ve ever met in my travels. The hospitality is exceptional. I felt perpetually welcomed and at home, everywhere I went.
    • Kathmandu is an amazing city to explore, although rather compact and small. After a few days you may feel that you’ve seen it all, although I feel pretty confident you won’t have! There’s so much hidden around every corner, and down each alleyway.
    • The city is in a valley and the pollution is some of the highest in the world. Some people struggle with this, but personally it didn’t bother me much.
    • The city has an amazing blend of Nepalese, Indian, Tibetan and Chinese Influence, so the food is diverse and the atmosphere much more relaxed than in neighbouring India. Don’t forget to eat the momos!
    • Thamel is one of the best spots in all of Nepal for well-priced handicrafts, so shop it up if you want some souvenirs to send back home (or keychains & clothes if you’re trying to keep a small suitcase)

    Who would I recommend Kathmandu to?

    I enthusiastically recommend Kathmandu to everyone who will listen. It’s a wonderful destination for anybody who wants to be near excellent trekking, or experience a more chilled-out version of India. Kathmandu still has the amazing culture, vibrancy and delicious foods, curries and festivals like India, but without so much of the things that can make it overwhelming. You don’t even need to be into trekking – it wasn’t at all a part of my trip, and yet I loved every moment.

    General: Guide to Thamel, Kathmandu | 10 Important Tips for Visiting Kathmandu | Ten Interesting things to do in Kathmandu | 5 Offbeat Experiences in Kathmandu | Solo Female Travel: Traveling Alone in Nepal as a Woman  Books to Read: The Snow Leopard (Penguin Classics)| Lonely Planet Nepal (Travel Guide) | Escape From Kathmandu | Lonely Planet Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya (Travel Guide) | While the Gods Were Sleeping: A Journey Through Love and Rebellion in Nepal | Nepal – Culture Smart!: The Essential Guide to Customs & Culture | Little Princes: One Man’s Promise to Bring Home the Lost Children of Nepal Eating: Eight Great Eats in Kathmandu | Trip Advisors Top Kathmandu Restaurants List | Vegan & Vegetarian Food in Kathmandu | A Backstreet Guide to the best Cafes in Kathmandu | Putting Nepali food on the map  Kathmandu Itineraries: Rough Guide’s Kathmandu Itineraries | Kathmandu Valley, Nepal: itinerary, cost breakdown, packing list  | Nepal in under a week: visiting with only a 7 day or less itinerary Trekking: Tips for Trekking to Everest Base Camp | A Backpackers Guide to Nepal | Guide to the Annapurna Circuit Trek | A Photographic Journey to Everest Base Camp Other parts of Nepal:  Chilling at Lakeside Pokhara, Nepal | Hike From Nagarkot To Nala | 2 Days in Pokhara | 10 Reasons to Visit Chitwan National Park

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  • These are a few of my favourite travel blogs (August 2020)

    What am I reading this month?

    This year has bought along with it a whole lot less travel, and much more reading about it in travel blogs instead – well, I don’t know about you, but that’s certainly been the case for me!

    But what am I reading for inspiration right now? Here’s a few interesting travel bloggers writing about places, and experiences, that I’ve been adding to my return-to-travel 2021 (fingers crossed) wish list

    Two Birds Breaking Free

    With a focus on Asian destinations, Eoghan and Jili of the Two Birds Breaking Free travel blog have me seriously wanderlusting after some parts of India I’d never even heard of.

    I’m especially enamoured by the living root bridges in Nongriat village that look like something straight out of a fairytale.

    Nomadic Notes

    Nomadic Notes Screenshot

    James has a pretty sweet blog focused on the digital nomad life that I myself have been living since 2014 (I’m a baby at it in comparison!)

    Currently, James is based in Vietnam and providing fascinating guides on the country that has been helping me develop some future plans to finally make it to Vietnam and visit (once it’s safe to do so, of course)! I am especially curious about what Hoi An must be like without tourists.

    The Lost Passport

    The lost passport screenshot

    The Lost Passport refers to itself as Your Ultimate Southeast Asia Travel Guide and woah, that’s totally true. I’ve visited, lived in, and fallen in love with Southeast Asia so many times over the years, but nothing I’ve experienced compares to the detailed guides and info that Josh is putting out over here.

    I’ve been lusting after Thailand recently, even though I was only just there in February! I think The Lost Passport’s Guide to Koh Lipe has me inspired to check out this little island that’s been on my radar for a while now.

    Nomadic Samuel

    Nomadic Samuel Screenshot

    I had been enjoying Nomadic Samuel’s blog in the past, but somehow it totally slipped off my radar and I’ve had the joy of rediscovering it all over again!

    Sam posts really interesting and informative content, and this Emilia-Romagna guide for foodies has me dreaming of planning another Euro trip next summer to indulge my tastebuds in some amazing Italian cuisine.

    Bachelor of Travel

    Bachelor of Travel Screenshot

    The Bachelor of Travel blog caught my eye recently with the post 10 Things People Get Wrong About Aotearoa New Zealand

    Being a Kiwi myself, I love reading people’s experiencing of NZ – and then learning that the awesome Rania is from Thessaloniki (where I’ve spent a lot of time & it feels like home for me) then moved to New Zealand for a long while (my home country) made me even more fascinated to keep reading this pretty awesome blog and follow Rania’s adventures.

    Don’t Forget to Move

    dont forget to move screenshot

    Jules & Christine over at Don’t Forget to Move have some awesome adventure travel posts I am devouring at the moment.

    I’m especially fascinated with the Adventure Travel in Mexico : Exploring Chiapas post as I was supposed to be returning to Mexico this November, for my first visit to Chiapas (despite many, many, many visits to neighbouring Oaxaca!)

    So while I’m sad Chiapas is postponed for now, reading about it makes me even more excited for next year when I will try again!

    52 in Kicks

    51inKicks screenshot

    I have a particular soft spot for 52 in Kicks because of the beautiful site design, but also because Agata & Sean write about some of my favourite places & I’m loving reminiscing.

    But also enjoying getting some inspiration for visiting more of my own country (New Zealand) while I am passing the year here!

    The Longest Way Home

    The Longest Way Home screenshot

    David set off on an overland journey in 2005, and is still going now – this website is one of the most comprehensive guides, especially to Nepal, Asia and Overland travel I have encountered and I am loving every moment of it.

    My own overland Asia journey pales in comparison to the incredible journeys documented on the Longest Way home, and it’s so inspiring to read.

    I’ve been finding it fascinating to learn how different parts of the world are working with the current pandemic situation, and the post Will Nepal Open for Trekking and Tourism is a really fascinating insight into how the situation there is right now.

    What are your favourite travel blogs this month? What else should I be checking out to satiate all this pent up wanderlust? Let me know in the comments!

  • New Zealand Wilderness: Exploring Lewis Pass & The Maruia Valley

    The centre of New Zealand’s South Island can feel a million miles away. Wild, rugged & windswept full of beech forests, alpine passes and abundant nature.

    Welcome to the wilderness of New Zealand’s Central South Island. A place I had little experience with, despite growing up right around the corner. That was until twenty-twenty arrived, the pandemic hit, and I set out on an adventure to explore my own backyard.

    Lewis Pass and the Maruia Valley are often lesser known by tourists, but the area is full of wildlife, hot springs & natural beauty as well as excellent food & drinks if you know where to look – so it was a great choice for a few short getaways from Christchurch.

    SH7 in the Lewis Pass
    SH7 in the Lewis Pass

    Red Beech Forests

    Towering red beech trees make up the forests around here, with a smattering of smaller silver birches growing underneath.

    Pure beech forest is the dominent forest cover in the Lewis Pass, and numerous other parts of the country – it covers more than 2.9 million hectares of New Zealand. The Lewis Pass is an excellent area to see this type of forest, and experience the fairytale-esque woodland vibe by meandering through towering beech trees, huge mossy tree roots and delicate ferns spread out across the forest floor.

    The red beech forests of the Lewis Pass and Maruia Valley provide a wonderful opportunity for some shinrin-yoku (forest bathing)

     It is simply being in nature, connecting with it through our senses of sight, hearing, taste, smell and touch. Shinrin-yoku is like a bridge. By opening our senses, it bridges the gap between us and the natural world.

    From FOREST BATHING: How Trees Can Help You Find Health and Happiness by Dr. Qing Li,

    St James Walkway

    Entrance to the Saint James walkway
    Entrance to the Saint James walkway off SH 7

    Located off State Highway 7, The St James Walkway  is a multi day hike through sub-alpine conservation and reserve areas. It’s a great trail for wildlife spotting and covering 66 km of diverse scenery over 4–5 days.

    It’s considered a good introductory trail to multiday walking, although as Michal points out it’s still the New Zealand wilderness, which can be demanding and dangerous if you encounter bad weather conditions. So it’s important to go well prepared for this, or any other hikes in New Zealand.

    There are a number of huts in the St James area where you can rest the night,  however, during the summer months it is recommended that you carry a tent with you, as accommodation in the huts is limited and available on a first come, first served basis.

    You can read read more details about the St James walkway on the Department of Conservation Website.

    View from the Maruia River, across the Maruia Valley
    View from the Maruia River, across the Maruia Valley

    Marble Hill + Deer Valley Campsites

    If you’re looking for a couple of nights to pitch a tent and kick back out in the wild, Marble Hill and Deer Valley are both excellent, relaxed & off the beaten track campsites.

    Marble Hill campsite is tucked away off the main road, bordering the forest. The sunsets are beautiful and there is wildlife all around. It’s very easy to camp here, and no bookings are required – you simply pay cash ($8 per night/per adult + additional fees for children) at the self-registration stand on arrival to the campsite.

    Deer Valley campsite is a scenic small space in the beech forests, on the banks of the Lewis river. There are 10 non-powered tent sites here, and you do not need to (nor can you) book in advance – spots are available on a first come, first serve basis. Just like Marble Hill, you pay cash on arrival ($8 per night/per adult + additional fees for children)

    tent spot at Marble Hill campsite
    My tent spot at Marble Hill campsite

    Maruia Hot Springs

    The outdoor rock pools at Maruia Hot Springs
    The outdoor rock pools at Maruia Hot Springs

    The Maruia hot springs are, in my opinion, the crowning glory of the Maruia valley. I may be bias, however, as I am a touch obsessed with hot springs.

    Maruia Hot Springs totes itself as a wellness resort, and boy does it deliver – Japanese style onsens and rock pools amidst, native bush and surrounded by mountains and towering beech forests. Birds call and the river babbles by as you sit back and enjoy one of the numerous pools, steam room, sauna or cold plunge pool.

    Maruia means place of shelter, and was a resting space for M?ori people passing through on their way to the Pounamu on the West Coast. The hot springs were a location of many a night of rest, recovery, and often battle too.

    The new owners of Maruia have done an exceptional job to turn this into a luxurious and world-class experience – their is excellent food, guided nature walks, massage, yoga and the premisis is even powered by its own hydro-power.

    You can visit with a day pass, or make the most of the various accomodations options available – ranging from camping, to glamping pods, up to luxury hotel rooms.

    You can see the different accomodation options & packages here

    • Indoor Onsen style hot pool at Maruia Hotsprings

    Native Bird Spotting

    Here in New Zealand we may not have many large mammals to spot, but what we lack in bears we make up for in an abundance of native birdlife.

    The Lewis Pass and Maruia Valley area is a haven for native New Zealand birds. If you’re lucky, you might spy some of the following:

    Native P?wakawaka (Fantail) bathing in a stream
    Native P?wakawaka (Fantail) bathing in a stream

    Reefton Distillery Co.

    Just past Maruia Springs when coming from Christchurch you will find the charming West Coast township of Reefton. Reefton is delightful in its own right, thanks to the preservation of an old-town West Coast village vibe.

    But, scenery and villages aside, the Reefton Distillery Co. is well worth a visit just to sample some Little Biddy Gin an exquisite local gin made from wild, New Zealand native botanicals. I’m a bit of a fan of interesting Gins, and this is one of my favourites. In an unusual way it tastes just like the NZ forests, go and give it a try!

    Roads around Waipara before reaching the Lewis Pass, Canterbury side.
    Roads around Waipara before reaching the Lewis Pass, Canterbury side.

    Waipara Wineries

    On the outskirts of the Lewis Pass (on the Christchurch Side) lies the Waipara region, well worth a mention for the excellent wineries that you can find here. It’s a small wine region for NZ, but it packs a punch.

    I’m particularly partial to Waipara Reislings, and you can try my two favourites at Pegasus Bay Winery and Waipara Hills Wines – the latter being an excellent stop to try out their Medeterranian styled vineyard restaruant.

    If foods your thing, then make sure not to miss Greystone Wines to try one of their equisite tasting menus.

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  • A love affair with breakfast in Oaxaca City

    Breakfast in Oaxaca is something oh-so-special

    When I first landed in Mexico, I’d come from New Zealand – a country so far away that we barely had any understanding of what Mexican food meant beyond hard shell tacos and burritos. The the concept of breakfast in Oaxaca had never crossed my mind, and I was delighted to discover an entire new world awaited me.

    Unlike in New Zealand, breakfast in Oaxaca is rarely toast or cereal – instead, it’s an entire cuisine of its own full of flavours, traditions and specialities.

    It’s been my absolute pleasure to introduce the people I care about to the food of Oaxaca, and in all the times I’ve spent living in the city of Oaxaca I’ve managed to host a number of guests and introduce them to the magical world of breakfast that I believe exists uniquely in this incredible food capital.

    Chilaquiles Rojo o Verde: how do you choose?

    My favourite breakfast food? Chilaquiles – hands down. Chilaquiles are not uniquely Oaxacan, and despite Mexico’s heavy lean toward regional cuisine, this is one dish that can be found ubiquitously across most of Mexico’s incredibly diverse range of foods.

    Chilaquiles are where nachos meet enchiladas. Triangles of crispy tortilla doused in salsa, topped with crumbly fresh cheese and herbs. Rojos (red sauce) or verdes (green sauce) are the most popular varieties that you will find in all good chilaquiles stops, but there are also other varieties to be had.

    As with all Mexican culinary tradition, everyone covets their special salsa recipes. This means that your chilaquiles verdes at one restaurant, may taste completely different at another.

    However, generally speaking, the salsa verde will be more sour – made with green chiles and tomatillos. The salsa rojo may be more spicy, and is usually more rich and tomato flavoured.

    After deciding on the salsa, you can order your chilaquiles sencillos (with just cheese and herbs), con huevo (with an egg) , or usually with a choice of meats – pollo (chicken) and tasajo (thin beef) are the most popular.

    • Chiaquilies Rojos con Pollo
      Chiaquilies Rojos con Pollo
    • Chilaquiles Rojos con Tasajo
    • Chilaquiles Verdes in Oaxaca
      Chilaquiles Verdes
    • Chilaquiles Rojos in Oaxaca
      Chilaquiles Rojos

    Other Varieties of Chilaquiles

    It was my Spanish language tutor who introduced me to the idea of Torta de Chilaquiles (or as Thrillist put it, a delightfully decadent carb bomb) – a torta (sandwich made on bolillo roll) filled with chilaquiles, crumbed chicken, cheese and other toppings.

    Where to find the best Chilaquiles in Oaxaca?

    My favourite spot for chilaquiles is Ancestral Cocina Tradicional, who boast not just the delicious rojo + verdes varieties available with a selection of meats or egg, but also I can highly recommend just about everything on their menu for a traditional breakfast, Oaxaca style.

    The other excellent choice is Pan-am Cafe, who do a stunning job of mouth watering chilaquiles with excellent fresh toppings. You can check out the Oaxaca Breakfast Spots map for more inspiration.

    Antojitos: Memelas, Quesadillas, and Tetelas

    Oaxaca has a deep and significant history intertwined with maize and corn, and this is reflected in the wide variety of masa-based antojitos available everywhere in Oaxaca. The different names reflect the shape and size of your antojito, as well as the way it’s folded or presented. From there, you can choose your desired filling or topping.

    • Memelas and Quesedillas on a comal
      Memelas and Quesedillas on a comal
    • Memela in Oaxaca
      Memela with chicken and fresh cheese
    • Quesadillas De Flor De Calabaza (Squash-Blossoms)
      Quesadillas De Flor De Calabaza (Squash-Blossoms)

    Memelas

    I was delighted to see Oaxaca, and memelas, get some special attention on one of my favourite Netflix shows : Street Food Latin America where they introduced us to the delightful Doña Vale of The Memelas Doña Vale in the Mercado Central de Abasto (the largest market in the City of Oaxaca)

    Memelas look simple – a round of flat masa, warmed on the comal and smeared with some pork fat, beans and a crumble of queso fresco but their simplicity lends to one of the most memorable, comforting, and popular breakfast foods to be found in Oaxaca.

    Quesadillas

    Quesadillas in Oaxaca will look different from what many tourists might be expecting. Instead of being two large tortillas stacked on one another and sliced into wedges, a quesadilla here is more often a single, large tortilla flipped over on itself with delicious fillings sandwiched inside.

    Because it’s Oaxaca, a quesadilla filled with queso Oaxaca (Oaxacan string cheese) is a must. You’ll find it in just about all quesadillas in Oaxaca, as the cheese is an important speciality for the region.

    Then, try some Flor de Calabaza (squash blossoms), hongos (mushrooms) or tinga de pollo (shredded chipotle chicken) inside, and finally splash it with some good salsa. Delicious!

    Tetelas

    You can tell a tetela by its triangular shape, stuffed with beans and cheese and cooked on the comal alongside memelas and quesadillas.

    Named after a small village in the Oaxaca region, these really are a regional speciality. They are a little harder to find than the other antojitos mentioned here, but worth looking for.

    The best spot to guarantee finding a tetela is at Itanoní Antojeria y Tortilleria

    Where to eat antojitos in Oaxaca

    Antojitos can be found at nearly every place you spy a comal. There are wonderful memelas, quesadillas, tetelas and more to be had on just about any street corner.

    Itanoní Antojeria y Tortilleria is the most famed choice in Oaxaca, serving up a mind blowing selection of corn based bites made from local heirloom corn varieties. If you’re in doubt, everyone from Her Magazine, AFAR magazine and even Atlas Obscura rave about them.

    For a lesser known (but no less special) experience, head to La Abuela on the edge of Jardín Conzatti. The menu is fairly simple, but the topping choices are all home made with so much love. This is one of my favourite little spots to pop into for breakfast.

    Enchiladas, Enfrijoladas & Enmoladas

    • Enchiladas con huevos
      Enchiladas con huevos et chile Ajo
    • Enchiladas con mole
    • Enchiladas con pollo

    It can seem a little intimidating the first time to see so many breakfast items beginning in en- and ending in -adas! But not to fear.. they are all very similar dishes, the difference being in the sauce used over top.

    Enchiladas are tortillas wrapped around something (commonly chicken and/or queso fresco), covered in a chile based sauce made of Ajo or other red chilis.

    Enmoladas are just like an Enchilada, but instead of a chili salsa it is covered in a mole sauce. A great choice when in Oaxaca, a land famed for mole!

    Enfrijoladas are also an Enchiladas, but instead of a chili salsa or a mole it is bathed in a black bean sauce.

    As with most Oaxacan breakfasts, you can usually opt to have a Huevo (egg) on top, or some kind of meat like tasajo or cecina, or they are delicious as they are and you can have them sencillos (without any additions)

    Where to eat enchiladas in Oaxaca

    My personal favourite spot for enchiladas is in the (sometimes hard to find as it moves around) Pochote Xochimilco Market at Calle Marcos Pérez #217, Colonia Centro (between Crespo y Joaquin Amaro) I get them from the small vendor in the far, left corner when you’re walking in from the entrance.

    Tamales in all their many flavours

    • Oaxacan Tamales (Tamal Oaxaqueño) in Oaxaca
      Tamal Oaxaqueño steamed in banana leaf
    • Tamales in Oaxaca
      Tamale con mole verde
    • Sweet tamales in their pink skins
      Sweet tamales in their pink skins

    Tamales are glorious, and ubiquitously connected with Mexican food and culture. Oaxaca brings their own twist to this in a few different ways. In my experience, the best place to find tamales is at the markets in the morning. In the evenings, you can still find Tamales Oaxaqueños at some night markets and on restaurant menus, but the other varieties tend to be found predominantly in the mornings, and on special holidays.

    Tamales Oaxaqueños

    Oaxacan style tamales are somewhat flat, square parcels of Masa, some kind of meat, and a mole (commonly mole negro) wrapped in banana leaves instead of the more common corn husk.

    Tamales de Mole

    Tamales de mole are more typical of what people think of when they think of a tamale – plump, round, and wrapped in a corn husk – Oaxaca is an excellent place for this due to being famed as the land of mole! You can get all different varieties of mole in your tamale, my personal favourite is mole verde (a tangy green mole sauce)

    Tamales de Dulce

    You can tell a tamale de dulce apart from the tamales de mole by its pinked-dyed skin. Inside is sweet masa mixed with cinnamon, spices, raisons and sometimes sweet fruits like pineapple.

    Where to eat Tamales in Oaxaca

    The best place to find tamales de mole and tamales de dulce are in the markets in the morning. My favourite tamales can be found at Mercado Sánchez Pascuas by the lady who sells on the edge of the foodcourt (rather than the other tamale stall fixed inside the market building, who is also good and worth a try)

    For tamales Oaxaqueños, a great place to try these is in one of the small restaurants inside the Mercado 20 de Noviembre

    Molettes – a classic student breakfast

    The very first time I tried a mollette, it was my first every trip to Mexico and introduced to me by my tour guide as the breakfast for students. Quick, tasty, found across Mexico – this is a crusty bolillo roll toasted, smeared with beans and served with Quesillo Oaxaca, your choice of meat (or no meat) and a hearty serving of pico de gallo over top.

    Mexican grilled cheese, breakfast torta – whatever you want to call it, this is a winning combination and a breakfast option you’re going to be able to find just about anywhere.

    • Molettes - Oaxaca Breakfast Food
      Molettes with salsa
    • Mollettes con carne
      Mollettes con carne

    Tacos are not only a late night street food

    One lesson quickly learned from my times spent in Oaxaca is a taco is really what you make of it. Forget rigid ideas of how you think a taco should work, and reframe it as a tortilla wrapped around something.

    Because that’s what taco is, it’s a way of wrapping whatever you would like to eat inside a fresh, warm, corn tortilla. And what better way to start the day with a breakfast taco?

    You can find tacos in most breakfast restaurants serving antojitos but my hands-down favourite breakfast taco is the Tacos Rellenos con Pollo Coloradito from Ancestral Cocina Traditional.

    Two large tortillas rolled and stuffed with shredded chicken, douses in the mole coloradito sauce and covered in a heaping of shredded lettuce and queso fresco – It’s usually too much food for me to eat alone, but it’s well worth the attempt!

    • Tacos Rellenos con Pollo Coloradito
      Tacos Rellenos con Pollo Coloradito

    Huevos all the way – Divorcados, estrellados & rancheros

    Huevos is Spanish for eggs, and something you will see an awful lot of around Oaxacan Breakfasts (and Mexican breakfast in general) there are numerous ways to eat your eggs:

    Huevos Divorcados: two eggs served on tortillas, with both red and green salsa split by a row of refried beans across the middle. It sounds complicated – but really, it’s just delicious.

    Huevos Rancheros: these are the most well known of the eggs, and are ranch-style because they are named after what one might eat on a rural Mexican farm.

    Huevos Estrellados: these are fried eggs, sometimes served on tortillas, sometimes with bacon or chorizo. It depends upon the restaurant and the menu.

    Huevos Oaxaqueños: Eggs prepared in a traditional Oaxacan way – scrambled with cheese and served in a rich red salsa, and topped with avocado.

    Hot Drinks: Chocolate, Champurrado, and Atole

    • Chocolate con leche
      Chocolate con leche
    • Chocolate de agua
      Chocolate de agua
    • Cafe con leche with bread in the morning
      Cafe con leche with bread in the morning
    • Cafe de agua

    Chocolate in Oaxaca

    Oaxaca has been apart of a major cocoa trade route since very ancient times, so despite not producing any cacao trees for themselves, the city of Oaxaca plays an instrumental part of chocolate production, and is considered the chocolate capital of Mexico.

    However, it surprises many visitors to learn that eating chocolate is a rarity here. Instead, the rich whisps of roasting cacao that will lodge in your fragrance memory for the rest of time are being used mostly in mole sauces, and for drinking chocolate.

    Hot chocolate is a very typical breakfast drink here, enjoyed with bread in the morning. Whilst you can get it with milk (chocolate con leche) the more usual way to drink chocolate is with water (chocolate de agua) and sometimes a little azúcar (sugar)

    In Nahuatl (a spoken by the Aztecs and their neighbours, still spoken in many parts of Mexico today) Xocoatl, a word believed to be the origins of our current day word Chocolate, translates directly to mean bitter water (xoco = bitter and atl = water)

    And that’s how chocolate de agua tastes – not sickly sweet as many have come to know chocolate, but a rich, slightly bitter drink with much more in common with coffee than with a candy bar.

    Where to drink chocolate in Oaxaca

    Chocolate Mayordomo is the most famous place to sample chocolate, and see it being produced in all of Oaxaca. It’s for good reason that it’s so famous, and it’s well worth a visit to one of their numerous Oaxaca restaurants for a try.

    If you want to veer off the beaten Mayordomo path a touch, for another amazing chocolate experience I highly recommend paying a visit to Texier Chocolatería for an incredible selection of flavours, they also (a rarity!) sell eating chocolate here if you’re in need.

    Champurrado and Atole

    Aside from chocolate and coffee, there are a number of other important hot breakfast beverages to be found in Oaxaca. Two of the most prominent are Champurrado and Atole, two hot drinks both made from a maize base.

    Atole is a hot, corn based drink that is made up of toasted masa, piloncillo (unrefined cane sugar), cinnamon, vanilla and water.

    Champurrado is similar to an Atole, but is made also with chocolate.

    Both are common breakfast drinks, enjoyed frequently with bread, churros, or tamales and is especially prevalent around the Dia de Muertos (day of the dead) festivities.

    Map: Where to eat breakfast in Oaxaca

    Frequently Asked Questions

    What are Oaxacan tamales wrapped in?

    Instead of the usual corn husks, Oaxacan tamales are instead traditionally wrapped in banana leaves.

    What foods are Oaxaca most famous for?

    Oaxaca is well known across Mexico as being the land of the seven moles – although in truth there are many more than seven varieties to be found here! But to get started, make sure you try the 7 typical moles of Oaxaca: negro, rojo, amarillo, coloradito, verde, chichilo, and manchamantel.

    Are there vegetarian breakfast options in Oaxaca?

    Yes, there are many vegetarian options to be found. But please be vigilant if you are vegetarian – as many memelas, quesadillas, tllayudas, tamales and other masa-based foods have asiento (pork fat) added to them.

    Where can I find Pancakes in Oaxaca?

    There are plenty of less typical Mexican options in Oaxaca, and if you’re looking for pancakes, waffles or a matcha latte you’re in lucky – check out A.M. Siempre Café, Boulenc, Pan : am, and Gourmand Delicatessen

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  • What to do in Martinique on a Sunday?

    It is thanks to France that Martinique can claim itself one of the top foodie & wine destinations of the Caribbean, but along with being French comes the infamous Sunday closures.

    Far be it from me to complain about the easy access to perfect ratatouille and a great bottle of Crémant, if empty streets is the price to pay for a decent croissant then count me in!

    Many a tourist has downplayed the rumours they’ve heard about things in France closing on a Sunday, but really it’s a lot more true than you may think! The unprepared tourist (cough, cough, myself) may even find themselves arriving in Martinque on a sunny Sunday afternoon, suddenly remembering why Fort-de-france is a ghost town and everything is closed up!

    But with a little planning you can be prepared, and have a wonderful weekend even whilst many places are not open.

    First, a quick FAQ to get you up to speed on Martinique weekend closures

    Why are so many things closed on a Sunday in Martinique?

    Traditionally, in France it was pretty much impossible to shop on a Sunday due to their strict Catholic heritage.

    Although many French people are no longer catholic, the history and the culture of shutting up shop to relax has lived on.

    Because Martinique is an overseas territorial collectivity of France, visiting means not only stepping into the Schengen zone and using the Euro, but also experiencing the cultural norms of everything closing on a Saturday afternoon and reopening again not until the Monday morning.

    What is open in Fort-de-france on a Sunday?

    – Fast food remains open, so you can still visit McDonalds and KFC if you must!
    – Granade et Basilic is an excellent restaurant that opens on Sundays, I’ve eaten many a Sunday dinner here and never been disappointed.
    – Fuji Sushi Bar on the main waterfront strip is open and makes remarkably good sushi for a Caribbean island!
    – For a cheap and tasty pizza by the ocean, Hasta La Pizza is open on Sunday for dinnertime (from 5pm onwards)
    – To pick up forgotten grocery items, or just to try some new and local specialities, make sure to visit the Food Market Fort-de-France at 54 Avenue des Caraibes. They are open on Sundays, sell all kinds of goodies, and are very tourist (and if needed, English) friendly.

    What’s open around the island of Martinique on a Sunday?

    – Pointe du bout boasts more openings than nearby Fort-de-france because of the additional tourism, hotels & tourist apartments in the area. You’ll find a larger selection of open restaurants, bars & shops here if you’re looking for something more lively.

    – An excellent option on the Pointe du bout side on a Sunday is Le Ti Taurus for the lovely sunny seating & ocean views.

    – The Jardin de Balata and Musée de la banane are both open on Sundays if you’re looking for something more structured than lazing on the beach and drinking cocktails.

    Can I rent a car in Martinique on a Sunday?

    Yes you can rent a car in Martinique on a Sunday. The best place to rent from is either near the Martinique Aimé Césaire International Airport, and in Pointe-de-bout.

    Both have a number of car rental agencies who open on Sundays – just make sure to book in advance to make sure something will be available. All of the big chain companies (and some of the small ones) offer online bookings.

    For my own Martinique road trips we rented through  Europcar’s Trois Ilets Pointe Du Bout Car Rental in Pointe du Bout on all occasions and found the experience really easy & affordable.

    Are the grocery stores open in Martinique on Sundays?

    Yes but your options are limited. Most of the smaller grocery stores in Martinique including the Carrefour in central Fort-de-france are closed on Sundays.

    However, the larger Centre Commercial Carrefour Dillon is open 9am–12:30pm on Sunday mornings for your last minute Sunday grocery needs. It is not walking distance from Fort-de-france central, or many places really – so a car or taxi would be necessary to get here from most places.

    Does the Fort-de-france ferry run on a Sunday?

    Yes – but the schedule is limited and finishes early in the day. Check the Vedettes Tropicales Website for the most up to date ferry schedule.

    What to do in Martinique on a Sunday?

    Taste test the local liquors and pick yourself up some souvineers

    A wonderful gem in Fort-de-france I stumbled upon one Sunday was the Food Market Fort-de-France at 54 Avenue des Caraibes.

    Aside from being an excellent place to pick up some food if you forgot to by groceries over the weekend, it is a haven full of locally produced sweets, chocolates, rums, spices and souvineers from Martinique and nearby Guadeloupe.

    They often have tastings set up, and will gladly talk you through the local specialities. I highly recommend trying their Ponche de coco & the banana wine is truly fascinating.

    Open 8am – 1pm on Sundays.

    Dinner Plans: Grenade et Basilic

    Grenade et Basilic was one of the best little restaurants I discovered in all of Martinique. Run by the kindest French man, they serve up typical mainland French cuisine in a small little bistro in the heart of Fort-de-france.

    The kindness here was outstanding, the service excellent, and the food I still miss. The ratatouille is a personal favourite, and the differing daily flavours of creme brûlée are not to miss.

    Michel the owner is kind and friendly, speaking a multitude of languages and patient enough to chat with me in my fledgling French.

    Best of all, while most buildings in Fort-de-France are shuttered up, Granade et Basilic remains open through Sunday lunch and dinner.

    Find their website here: https://grenadeetbasilic.fr/en

    Plan ahead for a picnic day out at the beach

    If you’re organised, you can plan in advance and pick up a car rental and some picnic ingredients the day before & head off early for a full day of sun and sand! Just because the shops are closed, doesn’t mean the beaches are.

    Martinique is quite literally surrounded by some of the most beautiful beaches in the world, with crystal clear waters and soft, pillowy sand.

    If you’re well prepared with a car and some supplies you can have a lovely day out. Every other day of the week the supermarkets are well stocked with French cheeses and wines – the perfect makings for a Sunday picnic!

    You can also stop into any of the dive shops on the Saturday when you collect your car rental to rent a snorkel & mask to explore the underwater worlds around the island, or to visit the sea turtles at  l’Anse Noire

    Perfect picnic ingredients can be fund all over the island!
    Perfect picnic ingredients can be fund all over the island!

    Visit the magnificent Jardin de Balata

    No explanation will do for the incredible Jardin de Balata botanical gardens. I had read numerous times how wonderful it was, yet never placed it high up on my life and only went there somewhat by accident.

    But I was blown away. It’s truly magical – green & lush & full of amazing views, canopy walks and hummingbirds galore.

    Open Sundays 9am – 5pm. Read more in my post on Jardin de Balata here.

    Jardin de balata, Martinique

    Don’t Forget the Banana Museum – Open on Sunday!

    The Musée de la banane is open from 9am – 5pm on Sundays, and is a great way to learn about the history and importance this little yellow fruit plays in Martinique culture. It also has a beautiful garden & you can taste test bananas.

    So don’t let Sundays get you down!

    Get out and explore Martinique, just plan ahead like I didn’t do so that you can make the most of what is open and available to you.

  • Seven Unique Things to do in Christchurch this Winter

    So there I was, wrapped in woollen scarves and my teeth chattering just a little, walking through Christchurch Central City trying to remember just how cold did winters really get here?

    Despite having grown up in Christchurch, and living here until my mid twenties; It had felt like such a long time away. Christchurch is quite a different city these days, a hub of urban regeneration and new pockets of delicious food and activities that have unfurled across the city throughout the last 9 years of rebuilding since the devastating earthquakes.

    However, so many of my fond memories growing up involve blossoming blooms in the botanical gardens or lazy summer evenings sprawled out on Sumner beach. The truth is, I’d been avoiding winter for the longest time I’d forgotten how to enjoy it here! But then, COVID-19 came along just as I was visited for my brothers wedding, and I found myself (for the first time in many years) living back in Christchurch through the winter.

    It turns out there are so many things to do in Christchurch in the winter after all, thanks to some exciting new developments (along with some old favourites!)

    So here I was, rediscovering the city I grew up in – not to mentioned playing tour guide to my American partner who was visiting for the first time when we ended up (surprise!) moving here. Trying to show him the heart of a place I was rediscovering myself.

    What you’ll find inside:

    1. He Puna Taimoana Hot Pools
    2. Riverside Market
    3. Lyttelton Market
    4. Catnap Cat Cafe
    5. Willowbank Kiwi Nocturnal House
    6. Quake City Earthquake Museum
    7. Little High Eatery

    1. Soak at the He Puna Taimoana Hot Pools

    The He Puna Taimoana pools are a shiny & new on the list of things to do in Christchurch having only opened up their doors in June.

    Located on the New Brighton seafront looking out to the pier, this area has a long history of salt water hot pools. The original “Howey’s Hydro Baths” were in a similar location a long while back, and at the time the salt-water baths were credited with curing some pretty intense ailments such as sciatica & rheumatism.

    Warm salt water is associated with a variety of healing benefits including: calming the nervous system, boosting circulation, easing muscular/joint inflammation and reducing general pain.

    About He Puna Taimoana

    I went on a Monday morning, hoping to avoid the weekend rush. Thanks to a limited booking system there are never too many people in the pools at once, and the views out to the ocean combined with chilled music playing softly somewhere into the background made for a super relaxing start to the day.

    The complex also has a wonderful steam room & sauna, a collection of hot pools, a cold plunge pool and an onsite cafe.

    Opening Hours: 10am-8pm, 7 days a week. Visit their site here to make a booking

    2. Explore the magnificent food-haven that is the Riverside Market

    When I first returned to Christchurch after a number of years away, I kept being told to see the Riverside Market. As proof Christchurch is recovering, that it’s bustling and up and coming and maybe even a little bit hipster.

    Turns out the Riverside market is all those things and more. While it spills out into a warren of charming laneways, the Riverside Market itself is all under cover making it a perfectly acceptable outing for a rainy winter day in the city.

    One of my perennial shopping favourites The Mediterranean Food company has opened up a smaller Tuscan Deli store in here, jostling up right next to one of my top ten Christchurch food experiences (for as long as I can remember) Dimitri’s Souvlaki, where you should go quite literally right now and order the lamb souvlaki. You can thank me later.

    Having just those two places opening up so close together was more than enough to lure me in. Yet, never in my wildest dreams was I expecting the eatery paradise I discovered inside.

    In the middle is a collective food market, a greengrocer, butcher, fishmonger. Dotted around lay specialty meats, cheeses, chocolatiers, and other specialty goods. Restaurants and bars fill the rest of the space and range from Sushi train and a ramen joint, Malaysian, Turkish, Argentine Barbecue, Vietnamese.. the list goes on and on, I could spend an entire winter hiding out in here taste testing everything.

    Needless to say, I am super impressed and plan to return many times. You can find the full (and very impressive) directory here: https://riverside.nz/directory

    Opening Hours: Open 7 days, varying hours depending on the eatery or store you’re headed to. Check out the Riverside Market site for a full map & list of vendors and their opening hours.

    3. Take a trip to the Lyttelton Market (bring your umbrella!)

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    • Lyttelton Market every Saturday

    Locals might argue that Lyttelton really isn’t quite Christchurch and thus shouldn’t be on a things to do in Christchurch list as much as it should be on a things to do near Christchurch one. But, nevertheless, here we are. It’s a quick drive (or bus trip) through the tunnel to discover one of my favourite hidden little towns of the South Island.

    The Lyttelton farmers market is a bit of a cultural institution, and is certainly a more lively hub of activity in the warmer months.

    Yet the show must go on, and the market continues through the year rain or shine full of live music, great food & an upbeat smalltown vibe.

    What to do at the Lyttelton market?

    Wandering down the bustling main street of Lyttelton on a Saturday morning you can pick up a fresh, hot coveted Hope river Pie, or swing by the Lyttelton Coffee Company for an excellent flat white and a spot of brunch (if you can get a table – it’s a popular choice for good reason!) Eruption Brewing is a local brewery who also make a great mulled wine, and if it’s cooler out they have the fire going too.

    If you’re into Pizza, Bomba Getato hand makes their pizzas & calzones with exceptional care (and an impressive overnight rising of their traditionally made dough) and sell amazing pizza slices & calzones out front during the market. Their gelato is also incredible if you don’t mind a frosty treat on a cool winter day!

    The best buy of the market itself (in my opinion) is the bread stall closest to the Oxford Street & London Street corner. Their Focaccia is some of the best I’ve ever had – but get in quick, they always sell out early!

    Opening Hours: Every Saturday, rain or shine – 10am – 1pm. Visit the market website here

    4. Snuggle with Cozy Kitties at Catnap, The Christchurch Cat Cafe

    • Six unique things to do in Christchurch this winter - Catnap Cat Cafe
    • Six unique things to do in Christchurch this winter - Catnap Cat Cafe
    • Six unique things to do in Christchurch this winter - Catnap Cat Cafe
    • Six unique things to do in Christchurch this winter - Catnap Cat Cafe
    • Six unique things to do in Christchurch this winter - Catnap Cat Cafe

    What’s more cozy than fuzzy little kittens pouncing about the place? Did I mention Catnap also whips up a wicked hot chocolate or flat white? Just make sure to keep your mug covered to protect from curious kitten tounges!

    Cat cafes have been taking off around the world, and finally Christchurch has its own. Set in a beautiful large space with lots of cat towers, play toys, couches & cozy nooks, this is an ideal place to while away the winter and maybe fall in love a few times over.

    Catnap also works with the Cats Protection League to rehome cats in need of a new loving family – so many of the felines you’ll meet may even be available for adoption.

    Everything about this place is charming, down to the cat shaped stirring spoons & kitten printed cushions.

    Opening Hours: Wednesday – Sunday 10am until 5pm. Bookings recommended. head to the Catnap website here to make a booking.

    5. See Real Kiwis in the Willowbank Nocturnal House

    When it comes to things to do in Christchurch (or in fact, New Zealand as a whole!) experiencing a sighting of a live kiwi bird should be up on your list! However, our nations emblem is actually extraordinarily rare.

    Most New Zealander’s will have never seen a kiwi in the wild, and only a small handful will have even heard them calling in the night.

    That’s why going to a nocturnal house is a great way to see these amazing little creatures for yourself, without spending many cold nights out in the deep bush trying to spot something so elusive.

    Willowbank has many other animals too, and I have many fond childhood memories of visiting the barnyard animals, rare tuatara lizard and huge conga eels here!

    Opening Hours: Willowbank is open 9:30am – 5.00pm 7 days a week throughout the year (Except Christmas Day) but the Kiwi nocturnal house opens a little later from 10:30. You can visit Willowbank’s website here

    6. Learn About our Shaky Past at Quake City Earthquake Museum.

    The devastating earthquakes of 2011 & 2012 reshaped the city of Christchurch – both figuratively and literally. For me personally, it was the last time I ever lived in Christchurch.

    Coming back 9 years later and the rebuild effort is amazing. Seeing my hometown blossoming back into something interesting, something more than a pile of rubble, is magnificent.

    This is why I think anybody who is not from Christchurch should spent time at Quake City, it is an amazingly well put together exhibit that really tells the story of the devastation, the rebuilt, and the resiliency of Cantabrians.

    Opening Hours: 10am – 5pm 7 days a week (except Christmas) You can learn more about Quake City here

    7. Warm your Insides with some Ramen & Dumplings at Little High Eatery

    I may be obsessed with ramen. It’s hard to know for sure, but ever since I visited Japan and experienced ramen in its full soupy, fatty, slurpy glory I’ve been forever changed.

    Since then, It’s become my mission to try and find ramen everywhere I go; in the hopes that someday I will find an experience as delicious as those I found in Japan. And what better way to warm your chilly body from the inside out this winter than a steaming hot bowl of noodles?

    That is exactly how I stumbled upon the Little High Eatery. My perpetual hunt for delicious ramen led me to try out Sushi Soldier for their house special pork & chicken bone broth with pork belly. It was pretty delicious, not gonna lie!

    But as it turns out, Little High Eatery is something between a food court and a night market paradise of delectable international foods eaten in a comment eating space.

    Currently eight different vendors reside here, so in addition to Sushi Soldier you’ll find: Little Social for coffee & drinks, Bacon Brothers for a burger bar, Eightgrains for boutique Chinese food & handmade dumplings, BASE Woodfired Pizza for pizza, El Fogón for Venezuelan inspired BBQ, Noodlemonk for Thai Stret Kitchen food, and Caribe Latin Kitchen for latin American.

    So if you can’t travel (like I can’t right now, thanks COVID-19!) you can at least come here to warm up and travel with your tastebuds.

    Opening Hours: sun: 8am – 10pm, mon – thurs: 7am – 10pm, fri – sat: 8am – 11pm, You can see a full map of eateries at their site here

    What do you like to do in Christchurch?

    I’m always looking for new things to check out! Leave your own suggestions in the comments, it doesn’t need to be winter friendly either, I’m curious for all seasons!

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    7 Unique Things to do in Christchurch this winter