After visiting 42 countries, I’ve learned a thing or two about what makes a place special and how to experience it meaningfully. These practical guides share the kind of specific, tested advice I wish I’d had when I was starting out—from navigating Indian railways to finding the best breakfast spots in small New Zealand towns.
I had saved Marrakech for later. To me, it felt like an advanced destination – suited to skilful travellers who know exactly what they are doing. The more I reflect, the more I see how wrong that assumption was.
I had bundled Morocco away with the likes of Japan and India for quite some time – a place not dangerous or in the midst of war, but somewhere that might pose a unique set of challenges. Having now visited all three countries with a difficulty rating of high in my mind, I can comfortably let you know they were all awesome and I held off in my earlier travel years for absolutely nothing.
Marrakech charmed me, and although I spent over a month exploring Morocco, I only had a few days in Marrakech and I would gladly return for longer next time.
“I believe that Marrakech ought to be earned as a destination. The journey is the preparation for the experience. Reaching it too fast derides it, makes it a little less easy to understand.”
What makes a town magic? It’s such a powerful concept that many countries around the world have adopted their own ways of recognising beautiful & culturally significant hotspots to preserve, protect & promote. France has the Ville Fleurie, Colombia the Pueblo Patrimonio, and Guatemala have Pueblos Pintorescos – in Mexico, it’s the Pueblos Mágicos.
The Pueblos Mágicos highlight the towns in the country deemed to be the most truly magical. Currently, there are 132 Pueblos Mágicos recognised across Mexico with six of those in the state of Oaxaca, each of them a wonderful day trip or weekend getaway from Oaxaca City, which is easily one of the best vacation spots in Mexico.
Exploring the beauties of Mexico beyond the more typical tourist sites is a worthy pursuit, the country has far more to offer beyond resort towns and taquerias. Oaxaca immediately became such a precious state to me, a fusion of incredible history, culture, hospitality, and beauty – the whole state is a work of magic in its own right.
Mazunte is magic for tortugas
Nowadays, Mazunte is arguably the most well known of Oaxaca’s Pueblos Mágicos – word has gotten out that this chilled out little beach town is not like the others. The vibe is truly laid back, there’s not a resort in site. Each nook and cranny of the truly charming town feels like it’s been dusted in a special kind of fairy dust.
This town just glows, and I don’t mean that because it’s become a yoga and meditation paradise with juguerias, smoothie bowls and mindfulness retreats abound.
Human wellness aside, Mazunte is home to spectacular natural beauty. It is the only coastal Pueblo Mágico in Oaxaca, and the beaches are magnificent. Forested hills creep down to golden sandy beaches, dusty paths and coconut palms line the mostly unpaved roads; from up at the Mermejita lookout you can spy migrating whales and magestic sea turtles in the sparkling ocean, and down at the Ventanilla mangroves live crocodiles and herons.
One of the most magic things about Mazunte is the connection here to tortugas, or sea turtles. Some legends have it that the word Mazunte is derived from the Nahuatl maxotetia, meaning something along the lines of “please deposit eggs here.” because of how many sea turtles come here to lay their eggs.
Thankfully turtle poaching was banned in Mazunte, and in its place the Mexican National Turtle Center was born.
Capulálpam de Méndez is magic for the nature
If you venture eastward from Oaxaca City, up into the Sierra Juarez for around two hours you will find your self in the magical small town of Capulálpam de Méndez. This town was the first in Oaxaca to earn the prestigious Pueblo Mágico title.
The name Capulalpam means “land of the chokecherry tree” in Nahuatl, named after a variety of tree found here in abundance. The name fits well such a place: further up into the evevated mountain ranges than Oaxaca City, sprawling with forests and a perpetually cool and wet climate lending itself to verdant greenery and maginficent views.
It is here where you can find a traditional indigenous medicine center, created by the OMJSJO (Organización de Médicos Indígenas de la Sierra Juarez de Oaxaca) which serves to conserve indigenous population’s knowledge of traditional medicine and local plants.
In the surrounding area you’ll find many cabins to rent, forest walks, zip lining at Centro Recreativo Los Molinos, spectacular views at El Calvario, horse riding and lots of trout to eat, a fish which is so readily available here that it shapes the local cuisine. Capulálpam de Méndez is a well maintained small town with plenty of eco tourism offerings, and a wonderful spot to escape the city and breathe in some fresh mountain air.
Huautla de Jimenez is magic for rituals & mushrooms
The town of Huautla de Jimenez is steeped in magic, ritual, and an infamous history of María Sabina the Mazatec priestess, and her psychoactive mushroom rituals, which inevitably spurred the psychedelic movement in America. Although María is no longer living, and the village has suffered the consequences of western tourists seeking psychoactive rituals, it is nowadays a traquil and beautiful town to visit and is home to both a museum and annual festival in María’s honour.
The Museo Casa de María Sabina is found at María’s former house, turned museum at Calle de Hidalgo No. 30. The building is decorated with photos of María Sabina with many of her famous guests, different paintings inspired by her and the journeys she led, and many other interesting tributes to her.
Then when July comes, the town bursts into celebration for the Festival Internacional María Sabina, focused celebrating natural medicine. During the festival, healers and shamans come from across Mexico to join in and perform rituals. There are also numerous cultural events handicrafts for sale during the festival.
In Nahuatl, the name means “Place of the Eagles” and this remote mountain town does not dissappoint on the nature front, too. Explore the coniferous forests, visit the Puente de Fierro Waterfall, or take a guided walk up to see the incredible views & experience the cultural and shamanic significance of Cerro de la Adoración (Devotion Hill).
San Pablo Villa de Mitla is magic for the land of the dead
The first time I visited Mexico I had the luck of visiting the Mitla archeological ruins, one of Oaxaca’s most important archeological sites. I was swept away in a whirlwind of history, archeology, and myth out in the magical Sierra Madre del Sur mountains.
It’s difficult to describe the immense sense of importance you can feel around the San Pablo Villa de Mitla and Mitla ruins, but the feeling is pervasive and important. The ruins are an ancient, re-Columbian burial site, known as the place of the dead. Those buried here were destined to become “cloud people”, supernatural beings in Zapotec belief who lived among the clouds, and at death would return to the clouds once more.
One of the most captivating details for me of Mitla, a memory which persists from ten years ago now, is the intricate mosaic/geometic patterns known as grecas. These polished stone tiles are held together only by the weight of the other tiles which surround them, and are completely mortarless. The patterns of the tiles all tell stories, each has a meaning, and no design is repeated exactly the same anywhere else in Mitla – these designs are unique in all of Mesoamerica, which I find incredible.
The surrounding village of San Pablo Villa de Mitla is a cultural hub full of handicrafts markets, traditional dance classes, and very good locally produced mezcal. For the culture, history and architecture, this truly is a Pueblo Mágico.
San Pedro y San Pablo Teposcolula is magical because of architecture & Mixtec culture
Just two hours out of Oaxaca city you will find the magnificent San Pedro y San Pablo Teposcolula, a beautiful small town hued purple due to an abundance of magnificent orchids which grow naturally all over the town.
Amidst the cobbled streets and famous arcitecture, one thing not to miss is the House of the Cacica, possibly the most famous building in town – a 16th century palace where the last queen of the Mixtec culture lived.
The historical center is home to the magnificent terracotta and white Palacio Municipal, with a large garden in front, the perfect spot to take a stroll in the morning and enjoy the cool weather before the day heats up. Teposcolula is a great spot to enjoy some particular Oaxacan deliacies: pozole with hierba santa, tamales with champurrado, mole amarillo, and chiles rellenos.
Santa Catarina Juquila is magical because of tradition
Nestled into the La Sierra Madre mountains south of Oaxaca city you will find Santa Catarina Juquila, the sixth and final Oaxacan Pueblo Mágico of this list. A natural wonderland surrounded by forests of topehuaje, blackwood, mahogany and jacaranda, where badgers and armadillo roam, Santa Catarina Juquila is one of the most significant religious pilgrimage sites in all of Mexico and a site of natural beauty in the region.
One of the most important landmarks of Santa Catarina Juquila is the Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora Inmaculada de Juquila, an 18th century neoclassical sanctuary which sees large numbers of pilgrims coming to visit the important 30 cm statue of the Virgen de Juquila – especially in the month of December.
Wandering around the town you will hear the indigenous language of Chatino spoken, find numerous wood carving workshops crafting intracite figures and virgins, see steelwork and knives being made, and experience the traditional art of chatinos embroideries. There are many handicrafts to discover in the town!
But the township aside, the area surrounding Santa Catarina Juquila has a number of beautiful views, forest, rivers, and waterfalls to explore, especially the Chorro Conejo Waterfall, and the natural fresh water spa of Río Olla – which is touted as a place of peace and tranquity, the perfect spot to spend a day getting back in touch with nature.
Kefta mkaoura is found just about everywhere in Morocco. Known by many as Moroccan meatballs, It’s a staple tagine and the fragrance wafts from rooftops across Marrakesh.
It’s served bubbling with a film of tasty oils rising to the top, lava hot cinnamon-fringed tomato sauce bathing just-poached eggs and spiced meatballs ranging in size from a small cherry up to a golf ball.
I ate this frequently throughout my time spent in Marrakesh – watching intently as the sizzling hot tagines were pieced together. Knowing that next time I had my own kitchen, this would be one of my first recipes to craft.
I worked on this recipe during the covid-19 lockdown, while following a low fodmap elimination diet – which made this recipe a particular challenge!
Served with soft, fresh Khobz (Moroccan bread) for dunking – think bold, tart, tomatoes rounded off with wafts of spices and a meaty bite to finish.
A quick Q&A :
Can I cook Kefta Mkaoura without a tagine?
Absolutely! A tagine is a very cool piece of equipment to keep in your kitchen, but it’s by no means a necessity. Any deep frying pan with a well fitting lid will do the trick! You’ll still get all the wonderful Moroccan flavours, and it’s well worth giving it a go with whatever you have.
Which meat would be best for Kefta Mkaoura?
A blend of ground beef + lamb would be excellent! But either of the two works. Lamb or goat is a very typical flavour in Moroccan food, so goes very well. Many Moroccans don’t eat pork due to their faith, so it’s unlikely you’d see pork showing up in this recipe.
How could Moroccan meatballs be made vegetarian?
You don’t have to eat meat to enjoy this! There are a number of excellent vegetarian and vegan ‘meat’ ball recipes out there using chickpeas, lentils, or meat replacements. Just be mindful if you’re following a fodmap diet to find a recipe without onions and garlic.
What to serve with moroccan meatballs
Typically, some good Moroccan bread – also known locally as khobz. Outside of Morocco many people might serve Moroccan meatballs on a bed of Couscous, however, in Morocco Couscous is more usually a meal in itself instead of a side dish! If you went to a typical Moroccan restaurant you would enjoy your tagine with a plate of bread and a pot of mint tea.
Is Kefta Mkaoura gluten free?
Yes, absolutely. If you make it using this recipe it is, anyhow. However, many people do put breadcrumbs into their meatballs so be cautious if you’re eating out. For a gluten free and low fodmap side dish, I recommend investigating the totally underrated grain millet. It cooks a lot like quinoa, and makes a tasty side.
Garlic & Onions: Aren’t allowed through the elimination phase, so I left them out of this recipe. Instead, I used chives & garlic oil to create a similar flavour profile. If you’re not sensitive to fructans, or on some crazy diet like I am, feel free to sub back in crushed garlic and onions in the beginning stage of heating the oil.
Peppers: Green peppers go really well here, but red have less fodmaps. Per serving, its okay to eat up to 1/4 of a medium red capsicum/pepper, but only 1/2 a cup of green. So either go with red, or reduce your quantities of green pepper down to one cup max if you are following a low fodmap diet.
Mix all the kefta ingredients together with your hands
Roll the keftas into small, evenly sized balls
Prepare the sauce in a tagine or deep skillet/pan
Once the sauce is prepared, line up the keftas
Moroccan Kefta Mkaoura (Low Fodmap)
A signature dish in Morocco, with a fodmap friendly twist. Kefta mkaoura is made up of cherry-sized fragrant meatballs in a spiced tomato sauce.
Think bold, tart, tomatoes rounded off with wafts of cinnamon and finished with poached egg.
For the Kefta (Meatballs)
500 grams minced beef (minced lamb, or a blend of the two.)
2 tbsp fresh parsley (chopped)
3 tbsp fresh coriander (chopped)
1 tsp paprika (smoked)
1 tsp cumin (ground)
1½ tsp salt (sea salt or kosher – preferably not iodised)
½ tsp tumeric (ground)
½ tsp cinnamon (ground)
1 tbs finely diced chives ((substitute with onion if your not fructan sensitive))
For the Sauce
¼ cup olive oil
1 kg fresh tomatoes ((or the equivalent in cans, if it’s what you have available))
1 small red capsicum, diced ((green will work well too if you’re not on a low-fodmap diet))
2 tablespoons garlic oil ((for non-fodmap dieters you can use 4 cloves of garlic instead))
2 tablespoons smoked paprika
2 tablespoons cumin (ground)
½ tsp salt (or more, to taste)
½ tsp pepper
½ tsp chilli powder
2 leaves bay leaves
2 tbsp parsley (chopped)
2 tbsp coriander (chopped)
To finish
4 eggs
1 handful olives (whole)
Make the kefta (meatballs)
Combine all of the ingredients from the kefta section (ground meat, herbs & spirces) into a bowl and mix with your hands until it’s well combined
Take portions of the meat and roll into meatballs, the size is up to you. Traditionally, the keftas would be around the size of a small marble.
Make the sauce
If working with fresh tomatoes, use a cheese grater to grate them to a pulp, discarding the skin.
Place your tagine base, or pan, over a medium to low heat with the oil. Once heated, sauté the diced capsicum and onion for several minutes, before adding the garlic for just 1-2 minutes more.
Add your tomatoes, and stir in all the herbs and spices. Bring to a simmer, then cover and cook until the tomatoes cook down and the sauce thickens, for around 45 minutes, checking every 10-15 mins or so to give it a stir and mash the tomatoes down with the back of your stirring spoon, and adding water if necessary.
When the sauce is thick enough, give it a taste and adjust seasoning as desired. Now, add the meatballs, cover and continue to cook until the meatballs are cooked through for a further 10 mins
Put it all together
5 minutes before serving, add the olives into the sauce to allow them to warm through, placing them gently between the koftas.
Once the olives are added, carefully crack the eggs over top (careful not to burst the yolks!) and cover the tagine or pan for the final cooking minutes. Cook until the eggs are set (but not overdone)
Add the finishing touches
Traditionally served with Khobz (Moroccan bread) for dunking, but if you prefer (or if you’re on a fodmap elimination diet as I was at the time of writing) you can eat these over some moroccan spiced millet
Main Course
Moroccan
GlutenFreeDiet, LowLactoseDiet
Dairy Free, Gluten Free, Low Fodmap, North African
Titirangi is one of my favourite corners of the world, certainly my pick for undiscovered North Island towns. It’s underrated, under-explored, and truly magical. Technically this is a suburb, rather than its own town, but as soon as you arrive you instantly feel a million miles away.
Tucked away in the Southern entrance to the Wait?kere Ranges, to the West of Auckland; Titirangi means either long streaks of cloud in the sky or fringe of heaven in M?ori, depending on how you interpret it. Either way, the land’s ancestors knew a special place when they found it. Fringed with swaths of deep, green, native New Zealand bush; instead of traffic, the soundtrack is bellbirds, tuis and gently lapping waves. This is a far, far, cry from the Auckland most people imagine.
I lived in Titirangi for a few years, a number of years ago. It’s made a lasting imprint, and one of my favourite things is the character of the village; Think organic farmers markets, charming café culture & small, locally owned eateries. Titirangi is a haven for creatives, and is home to many artists, musicians, galleries, and theatre – for a long time my favourite Auckland suburb (err, let’s go with village) upheld a reputation as a bohemian hub.
Titirangi is the undiscovered jewel in Auckland’s crown, and I’m always eager to recommend it to any visitors I hear badmouthing Auckland city!
2. | Waikanae
Recommended by Jub at Chur New Zealand
Having grown up in Waikanae, I’ve come to appreciate my visits to see family. What used to be a town people would rarely visit as a tourist, is now an increasingly popular day trip destination from Wellington.
There are plenty of amazing walks in Waikanae with options for everyone. And being located on the west coast, the sunsets are amazing, even more so in the winter when the sun dips behind Kapiti Island.
Head to the beach in the evening for a stroll, and enjoy the sunset before heading to one of the restaurants near the beach.
This brings us to the food and drink scene in Waikanae. It has moved on from fish and chips being the only options. There’s Los Locos, The Front Room, and the Long Room Cafe, all near the beachfront. And grab one of the amazing pies from Olde Beach Bakery n the morning!
At the village, there’s the health-oriented Sunday Cantina and the Salt and Wood Collective serving locally brewed craft beer. Two of my favourites
Want more ideas you can include in your visit to Waikanae?
Visit Nga Manu Nature Reserve
Take a birding tour around the estuary
Swim in Waikanae River
Browse Mahara Gallery
Play 18 holes at Waikanae Golf Course
In my early 20’s I would’ve said that Waikanae is boring. 10+ years later, and I’ve grown to appreciate how great Waikanae is for a small town in NZ. The food options are better than ever, the trails are well maintained, and who doesn’t love a town close to both the beach and mountains (the Tararua’s aren’t far away).
3. | Waitomo King Country
Waitomo is a tiny little rural village which normally packs a massive tourism punch. Before pandemic times, the tiny town of Waitomo near the center of the North Island was a constant stream of tour busses thanks to the magnificent Waitomo Glowworm caves. At the time of publishing this (March 20201) New Zealand is still mostly shut off from tourism, and the delightful town of Waitomo is struggling!
It’s a place well worth the visit – nestled amongst lush rolling countryside, dotted with sheep (or adorable little lambs, if you visit in the spring) and full of gorgeous forest trails, walkways, glowworm grottos, waterfalls and a sprinkling of delightful eateries.
What to do in Waitomo?
HuHu Cafe is excellent, I would eat there again (and again, and again)
Make sure to explore the nearby Ruakuri Bushwalk, for an hour-long loop trail of bridges, caves, glow-worms, and waterfalls.
Go Zip Lining at the Waitomo Caves Zipline Park
Discover the Opapaka P? Walk for some bird watching
Go blackwater rafting through caves of twinkling glowworms
4. | Matakana Auckland
Recommended byCaroline at CK Travels
Picturesque Matakana Village is one of the best day trips from Auckland and located just 40 minutes north of the city.
Matakana Village itself is quite small and has a handful of pubs, art and craft galleries and an arthouse cinema. Most people head here though to visit the weekend Matakana Village Farmers Market, located next to the river. The market is a foodies paradise and sells a wide array of delicious local organic produce and street food including amazing oyster platters andfresh paua fritters.
The town is also known for its award-winning vineyards and there is a Matakana Wine Trail where you can visit 15 different boutique wineries set amongst the rolling hills. Many of them have cellar doors where you can enjoy wine tasting, and some have stylish restaurants where you eat a gourmet lunch with a beautiful view of the vines (Plume Winery has a lovely outdoor dining area). You can also join a small group tour to take you to some of these wineries.
The nearby coast is also very popular and has pretty white sandy beaches where you can surf, snorkel, dive, swim, kayak or paddleboard, and nearby there are many scenic walking and cycling tracks.
Home to one of New Zealand’s most beloved beaches, Ohope is a small, almost single road settlement east of Whakatane in the North Island. It’s an excellent place to escape in nature, partake in water sports such as surfing or windsurfing, go hiking, or spot wildlife in their natural habitat.
Life here is in the slow lane, and it’s especially great for an easy family holiday. Rent a holiday home and spend your days building sandcastles, swimming, and playing ball games on the large sandy beach. There are also two great playgrounds situated on the grassy banks next door, where children will be entertained for hours. Adult visitors can browse the small selection of boutiques, and enjoy a leisurely brunch at the popular Moxi cafe. If you’re up for a more strenuous adventure, hit the trails in the Ohope Scenic Reserve, or the Kohi Point Scenic Reserve – both will afford you unbeatable views over the small town, coastal area, and both Whale and White Island off in the distance.
Ohope is one of those places that wins you over with its relaxed way of life, and you’ll want to keep on returning for years to come!
Rawene
Recommended by Roxanne of Faraway Worlds
Travelling along the rugged coastline of the west coast of Northland, I was pleasantly enchanted by scenic Hokianga, with its ancient forest and wild beaches. We had passed other towns along the way, but Rawene was a surprise – a jewel in a jagged landscape. First settled in the early 19th century, Rawene is New Zealand’s third oldest European settlement. Set on the water, the small town has a number of colourful, historic buildings, art galleries and craft shops, which are slightly incongruous with its surroundings.
It’s a quiet spot – Hokianga doesn’t get anywhere near the number of visitors of the east coast – but that just adds to its calm. Take a leisurely walk through the village, gaze out over the water, and stop for lunch in a local café. While you’re there, be sure to take a peek in Clendon House. Built in the 1860s, it was the home of an early New Zealand trader and is beautifully preserved.
Then catch the ferry to Kohukohu, the largest town in Hokianga, and the isolated north. Kohukohu is worth a visit, but it can’t compete with beautiful Rawene, with its quirky storefronts, interesting murals and historic buildings. However, it’s the streets and people of Rawene that will catch and keep your attention, unassuming but somehow managing to embody the wild and beautiful spirit of the Hokianga region.
Kerikeri
Recommended by Cassie of Cassiethehag.com
Kerikeri is a small town in the Northland area of New Zealand and is famous for its important history and natural attractions. Located in the subline coastal region appropriately named ‘the Bay of Islands’, it makes an attractive stop for road trippers, though I visited as a Summer weekend away from Auckland.
Once home to Maori chief Hongi Hika, you can still visit his old settlement, which was strategically located along the Kerikeri River, which is now also popular for local hikes. New Zealand’s second mission station (which now remains here as New Zealand’s oldest building) is in the heart of the town. These buildings are the Stone Store and Kent House, which you can still visit today.
From these buildings, a walk to Rainbow Falls is a must-do in my opinion. But one of the best things to do in Kerikeri is visiting the wonderful nearby Northland beaches. Matauri Bay and Tauranga Bay are amazing beach stops for Summer, and the drive from Kerikeri has stunning elevated views too. For families, you may also enjoy visiting the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway.
Finally, don’t miss a visit to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds in nearby Paihia – this is where the Treaty of Waitangi was first signed, thus forming New Zealand as we know it today.
Hahei
Recommended by Trisha and Modi from Try Wandering More
Hahei is a small beachside village located in the Coromandel Peninsula in New Zealand’s North Island, just a 2.5-hour drive from Auckland. We chose to stay here only because of its proximity to popular attractions. We didn’t expect much from the village before we got here. However, we were happily surprised by this charming settlement which has only two restaurants, a brewery, an ice cream cum pizza parlour, a general store, a gift shop, a gas station, and some holiday-related businesses.
Hahei’s low population combined with immense greenery lends to the serenity of the village. Yet, Hahei has a happy vibe with its colourful flowers, chirping birds and nosy seagulls. The beach too is a beautiful white-sand one with calm waters – perfect for a relaxing swim. Our time at the village was made even more memorable by our lovely B&B and friendly hosts.
That being said, Hahei is not just about the village but also about the incredible vistas around the area. It has spectacular seaside walks to the famous Cathedral Cove and to Te Pare Point. One can swim, snorkel, boat, kayak, fish and dive to explore the Te Whanganui-A-Hei marine reserve here. Hot water beach, near Hahei, is a fascinating one, where you can dig your own spa pool at low tide.
We would love to return for the delicious food, the relaxing walks, the picturesque sceneries and the many things to do that we missed.
Waiheke
Recommended by Angie from Where Angie Wanders
Waiheke, a quick ferry ride across the water from Auckland, is one of the most beautiful islands in all of New Zealand. This tiny island with only 10,000 residents, is a popular day-trip destination for both Aucklanders and tourists to the North Island, thanks to the 30-plus boutique wineries that are scattered around its countryside. I headed to the island to experience wine tasting in Waiheke’s vineyards and loved every minute of my trip.
From the wine and the food to the beautiful settings of the wineries it was perfect from start to finish. In the daytime the views from Waiheke island across the Hauraki Gulf are sensational, and in the evening as the sun sets, you feel like you are in a magical place – especially if you happen to have a glass of New Zealand sauvignon blanc in your hand.
But it’s not just wine that attracts visitors to Waiheke. Other activities include ziplining across the vineyards to cycling around the island with stops for wine tasting on route! Walkers are also catered for with several hiking trails stretching across the countryside. Waiheke also has some fantastic sandy beaches, my favourite being Oneroa lined with indigenous pohutukawa trees perfect for offering shade on hot summer days.
I was born and raised on the South Island of New Zealand, but it took me until my adult life of traveling the world to come to appreciate how beautiful and unique this island really is. But the more I travelled, the more I heard from people along my way how much they dreamed of visiting New Zealand. My curiousity was always piqued – where would you like to go? The answers were always similar; Queenstown usually came up, or perhaps they’d heard of Auckland, or wanted to visit the Hobbiton set.
But what about the small towns? I thought.
Well, it turns out that most people haven’t heard of the charming small towns smattered throughout the South Island, and in the spirit of #backyourbackyard I reached out to some fellow travellers & travel bloggers to ask them what was their favourite small town to visit in New Zealand. Combined with some of my own personal favourites, here’s some of the South Island’s most gorgeous little towns.
1. | Lyttelton Canterbury
A personal recommendation of mine
Lyttelton is a tiny portside town on the outskirts of Christchurch, which thanks to the handy Lyttelton tunnel is only a 10 minute drive into the bigger city, yet feels a million miles away. The town is magical and life revolves arounds a steady buzz of the ports, a main street full of charming stores and a bustling weekly farmers market.
This town is special to me for a number of reasons, and it remains so undiscovered by most tourists. This is where my grandmother lived whilst I was growing up, and then many years later when we ended up back in New Zealand by surprise (thanks 2020 pandemic!) this is where we took a six month rental, and enjoyed the small town little life over the autumn and winter.
It’s worth a visit if you like seaside life, lovely little streets lined with wooden villas & english country style gardens, a strong sense of community atmosphere and some trendy bar, restaurants and cafes. The Sunday farmers market is a highlight of the week too – it would make a great day trip from Christchurch.
Arrowtown is a leafy town nestled between hills on the banks of the Arrowtown River, 13 miles from its famous neighbour Queenstown. If Queenstown is too busy or expensive for you, then quieter, cheaper Arrowtown is a great base for exploring this region. Originally a farming area, Arrowtown transformed into a mining town after gold was discovered here in the 1860’s.
Today, Arrowtown’s historic main street retains a 19th century feel with wooden shop fronts and vintage telephone boxes. Charmingly quaint miners’ cottages are dotted around the town, many of which are available for holiday lets. Don’t miss the small but excellent Lakes District Museum in the town centre. This award-winning museum is packed with mining memorabilia and charts the history of the area. For a few dollars, museum visitors can hire gold panning equipment and head to the tree lined banks of the Arrowtown River (which featured in The Lord of the Rings movies) to pan for gold.
We initially decided to stay in Arrowtown in order to visit Queenstown but ended up spending most of our week exploring the friendly laidback town and enjoying peaceful hikes in the beautiful locality.
3. | Akaroa Banks Penninsula
Recommended by Delphine at LesterLost
On the South Island of New Zealand, the Banks Peninsula is a great day trip from Christchurch. Akaroa is the main township on this volcanic outpost and a charming little town. The Banks Peninsula is only an hour away from Christchurch and a paradise of rolling hills and scenic roads… Few people know this, but Akaroa has a strong connection to France, which may sound strange since New Zealand was colonised by the British… But indeed, the township of Akaroa was first settled by French whalers in 1840.
The British convinced the French to leave after only ten years by buying them out… And yet, over 150 years later, the French influence is still visible. The cemetery, some street names and overtly French cafes and restaurants maintain the flame of a distant and short-lived settlement… I discovered Akaroa by accident on my honeymoon to New Zealand and I keep going back, not just because of its French history, but the scenic summit road, colourful houses and unique volcanic harbour make the Banks Peninsula one of my favourite destinations in New Zealand. If you are keen on wildlife experiences, Akaroa also has a number of eco tours and cruises where you can observe seals and dolphins.
3. | Glenorchy Otago
Recommended byMargarita Steinhardt at The Wildlife Diaries
Glenorchy is a beautiful little settlement surrounded by the towering snow-capped mountains, glacial lakes and ancient beech forests, 46 kilometres north of Queenstown on New Zealand’s South Island. The drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy along the shore of Lake Wakatipu is one of the most scenic drives in New Zealand, which is very high praise considering that virtually every road in New Zealand is a scenic drive.
The town of Glenorchy is very laid-back. There are a couple of pubs, a cafe, a general store and the iconic red boatshed on the lakeshore. One of the best things to do in town is to explore Glenorchy Walkway that meanders through the wetlands of Glenorchy Lagoon. On a clear day, you can see the reflection of Mt Earnshaw reflected in the still waters of the lagoon.
And if you are looking for adventure, you can explore the Tolkienesque landscape around Glenorchy on horseback or on foot, in a 4×4 or in a jetboat, from a helicopter or from a mountain bike. And don’t be surprised if the landscape looks oddly familiar, the area around Glenorchy served as a filming location for Isengard, Lothlorien and Amon Hen in the Lord of the Rings movies.
4. | Kaikoura Canterbury
Recommended by Mikaela of Voyageur Tripper
Kaikoura is often overlooked by tourists to New Zealand, but it’s such a charming little seaside town that really shouldn’t be missed. I grew quite fond of this town after I spent a few months on the South Island between the delicious food joints, affordable places to stay, and outdoor activities.
Honestly, I had one of the best experiences of my life here when I got to swim with wild dolphins! I would go back just to see the dolphins again. You’re given a wet suit and a snorkel then you hop on a boat in search for the gorgeous animals.
Once you find them you hop in the water and they swim right up to you. They are super playful animals and will even “talk” to you if you start making noises at them!
The most popular activity in Kaikoura is whale watching though. You can do this either by boat or helicopter and with both you only have a 5% chance of not seeing a whale. The boat option is cheaper than the helicopter but on the helicopter, you also see beautiful views of the peninsula.There are so many fun things to do in Kaikoura and great opportunities to view wildlife. I’ll be planning a return trip as soon as I can!
5. | Twizel Mackenzie District
Recommended by Chris of Aquarius Traveller
At some point, when you’re driving around the South Island of New Zealand or looking at visiting Mount Cook, you will pass by the small town of Twizel. With a population of 1500, it’s the largest town in the Mackenzie region, on the other hand, numbers can triple during the tourist season. This is your number one gateway town for Mount Cook National Park and some of the best Mountain views on the South Island.
There is nothing like waking up every morning to a backdrop of the Southern Alps, or wandering through the friendly town at several cafes and eateries. Have some fun fishing for salmon or trout from the canals that run through the town, or take the easy way out and visit the local Salmon farm for the local delicacies. It’s all of this and Mount Cook, that keeps me coming back time and time again.
A range of accommodation options are available from Hotels, Motels, Cottages, Bed and Breakfasts, and Airbnb’s. Whatever your situation, there is going to be something to suit your style and budget.
Mount Cook National Park is less than an hour away, and there is are so many ways to experience this part of the South Island. Seeking adventure on one of the many hiking trails like Hooker Valley Track or Tasman Lake. Fly like a bird above the snow-topped mountains, or kayaking on one of the many rivers.
Twizel is known for its low light pollution and dark skies, which means it’s the best place to stargaze and see the wondrous Milky Way. Don’t forget to check this out on your visit!
5. | Te Anau Southland
Recommended by Nicholas of Rambling Feet
My main reason for visiting Te Anau was to enjoy a shorter drive to Milford Sound. However, I found plenty to make it worth staying a couple of nights or more. Being on the shores of Lake Te Anau, it comes with some stunning waterside views of the mountains. It’s a town that is incredibly close to nature such that it’s the gateway to Fiordland. From the surrounding area, trampers start three of the Great Walks of New Zealand: the Kepler, Milford and Routeburn tracks. Head 30 minutes south to Manapouri and you’ll be at the start of the cruise to the quieter but more dramatic Doubtful Sound. There are even scenic flights if you prefer to see the Eighth Wonder of the World from above.
You’d expect a lot of traffic, given how much there is to do. However, most of it is transient, so the town still feels unhurried during even the day. You can take a cruise or kayak around the lake, and there are tours that take groups into the caves to see thousands of glow worms light up the darkness. If you’re even less adventurous, there’s still a leisurely stroll along the lakeshore to the Te Anau Bird Sanctuary, where you can see native feathered critters, some of which are endangered. You can even get close to the takahe, a flightless bird that was thought extinct only 100 years ago, during their feeding times.
6. | Oamaru South Canterbury
Recommended by Lotte from Phenomenal Globe Travel Blog
Just short of 14.000 residents, Oamaru is one of the ‘larger’ villages on the South Island, though it’s still far from a big city. Despite its modest size, Oamaru has plenty to offer for visitors and should be included on any New Zealand road trip itinerary.
Oamaru likes to call itself Steampunk HQ. Steampunk is a quirky genre of science fiction that features steam-powered technology from the 19th century. When strolling through the city center you’ll undoubtedly come across many funky steampunk machines and art, resembling anything from human faces to a weird (and slightly scary looking) locomotive. There are even a Steampunk Museum (open 7 days a week from 10.00 am – 4.00pm) and a Steampunk Playground, so plenty to keep the kids occupied for a couple of hours.
There is more to Oamaru than steampunk though, one of the other highlights is the large blue penguin colony that calls Oamaru home. Well, not the streets of Oamaru obviously, but you can spot these cute little guys waddling around the beach from a special day viewing area. Keep in mind the Blue Penguin Colony is a protected habitat and be sure to follow the guidelines as not to disturb these wonderful creatures.
Back in the center of Oamaru you’ll notice plenty of charming old buildings in the Victorian Precinct, most of these warehouses have been converted into galleries and boutique stores. Don’t forget to check out the pretty railway station and the imposing Bank of New South Wales building.
7. | Franz Josef West Coast
Recommended by Jon from See the South Island
Franz Josef is a tiny glacier town on the West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island. The main draw is obviously the glacier, which you can see on a large number of hikes or from a helicopter, but the town itself is about as quaint and picturesque as you’ll find in New Zealand. The town, home to around 500 people, is surrounded by lush green hills and snow-capped mountains, and you’ll see some amazing views by just walking the quiet streets. There are plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating areas, and there are even some hot pools – perfect after a long day of hiking.
To see the best views of Franz Josef Glacier I’d recommend doing the Alex Knob Track. It takes 6-8 hours and takes you high above the glacier-carved valley. If you’re keen for something a little easier you can see the glacier from one of several short tracks, including Sentinel Rock and Peters Pool. Weather is key to these tracks – you’ll be blown away if you see this area on a nice day, but you won’t see much if it’s cloudy!
8. | Wanaka Otago
Recommended by Karen of Big Adventures for Little Feet
When visiting the South Island of New Zealand the majority of tourists flock to Queenstown however we found nearby Wanaka to be the stunning, relaxed mountain escape that we were seeking. Nestled next to picturesque Lake Wanakaand only an hour from Queenstown airport this resort destination is the perfect place to visit for a short or longer stay.
Known for its adventure sports, Wanaka is brimming with outdoor activities both in winter and summer. Snowsports dominate the winter scene but if summer adventures are more your thing this is the place to be for breathtaking hikes, water sports and a plethora of other activities.
We loved strolling the foreshore of Lake Wanaka, relaxing in the small village shops and cafes and simply taking in the views of the surrounding mountains from the hot tub at our accommodation. I highly recommend a couple of days exploring Mount Aspiring National Park which can be done by utilising Wanaka as your base. The Mount Aspiring National Park is such a pristine and untouched National Park allowing you to drive through the mountain range before opening up on the expansive Haast Pass. Make sure you stop for all the short hikes and waterfalls along the way with some favourites being the Blue Pools walk and the Fantail Falls.
9. | Cromwell Southland
Recommended by Bailey from My Queenstown Diary
The Otago region in New Zealand is a busy place to visit. Tourists fill the roads traveling between the small but very touristic towns of Queenstown, Glenorchy, and Wanaka. However, one town often forgotten is Cromwell. This quaint town sits on the shores of Lake Dunstan and is surrounded by vineyards, cherry trees, and even mountains. It’s a beautiful place to visit where visitors can enjoy a quieter time surrounded by beauty.
There are a ton of awesome things to do in Cromwell but few are as iconic as taking a trip to some of the local wineries. What’s unique about wine touring through Cromwell is you can actually do it on foot. Via the 4 Barrels Wine Trail, which leads you through some of the best and brightest wineries in Cromwell, you can explore without the worry of driving.
Another activity that’s a favorite of mine is to simply have a BBQ on the shores of Lake Dunstan. Around the lake, you’ll find BBQ’s dotted around the shoreline. Go into town and grab some food before heading town for one relaxing afternoon and maybe even a swim!
Despite Cromwell remaining off the beaten path, it’s one of the cutest towns in New Zealand that everyone should add to their bucket list!
10. | Punakaiki West Coast
Recommended by Daniel from Destinationless Travel
If you take a drive up the stunning West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island you’ll pass by many beautiful towns along the way. One that stands out and a place I love to visit is the quaint town of Punakaiki. Made up of only a few streets, this small town packs quite the punch when it comes to breathtaking landscapes. The entire town is surrounded by lush forest and the coastline on which it sits is not only rugged, but filled with wildlife.
Of the many amazing things to do in Punakaiki, visiting the famous Pancake Rocks is one of the best. On a huge boardwalk, you’ll explore the rock formation that got its name because it actually looks like stacked pancakes. It’s the reason most stop here, but unfortunately for them, they never seem to stay. For those that do though, you can enjoy much more including hiking the Truman track and kayaking down the Pororari River. One of New Zealand’s 10 Great Walks starts nearby too, the Paparo Track!
In a town so small there isn’t much else to do other than explore the area, but that’s what makes it such a bucket-list town to visit! If you are hungry though, and after a fun night out, head to the Punakaiki Tavern for a look inside a classic New Zealand country pub.
In hindsight you could say I’d become mildly obsessed, I suppose. I had my eyes set firmly on one of the most undiscovered, inhospitable corners of the earth and I couldn’t help but dream of someday getting to the Amazon. As it turns out, it’s much more straight forward to plan a weekend getaway in the Colombian Amazon than one might think.
It was my thirty second birthday and we’d come to Leticia. Before our plane even landed, I was enamoured. A city that lines the corners where Colombia meets Brazil and Peru, one built on stilts around the magnificent Amazonas and celebrates diversity, multiculturalism, and traditional jungle life.
A lively hub of multiculturalism meets jungle and South American life. A laid back and easy going life on the river where the markets are flush full of pineapple and brightly coloured canoes park up at the riverbanks to trade in riverfish.
Initially the first two nights were spent up in a treehouse, admiring new-growth jungle from our teetering traditional Maloka, then we moved into Leticia for the rest of the week.
“The rain forest was not a garden of easy abundance, but precisely the opposite. Its quiet, shaded halls of leafy opulence were not a sanctuary, but rather the greatest natural battlefield anywhere on the planet, hosting an unremitting and remorseless fight for survival that occupied every single one of its inhabitants, every minute of every day.”
Leticia has two seasons – the high water season (or the flooding season) and the low water season. The High Water season starts on February and lasts through late June. This is when I visited (In May) During this season, the Amazon river and its tributaries rise more than 20 meters, flooding all of the Varzeas areas. This was an incredible opportunity to navigate through the jungle in areas that aren’t normally doused in water, and visit different lakes via canoe.
Stilt houses on the riverside in Leticia
What to do in and around Leticia
Leticia is tiny, but boy is it mighty – it packs so much vibrancy and energy into a small space, and holds so much culture and diversity within it. Many people who recommend a visit to Leticia only suggest a day (at most) to explore this town, with the rest spent on tours out into the wider Amazon. But I disagree – give at least a full day to this magical town, but probably more. It may just surprise you.
Get yourself to the otherworldly bird show at Parque Santander, from 5.30pm each night many thousands of parrots come home to roost in the park, it’s more incredible that you can imagine (or than I can explain here)
Pay a visit to the Museo Etnográfico. A small, free museum which is packed full of fascinating cultural and historical information and artifacts from Leticia and the surrounding Amazon region
Wander on over to Brazil and visit Tabatinga, a town that’s connected to Leticia by road (and footpath) but is part of Brazil.
Take a quick boat to the middle of the river and visit the Peruvian island of Santa Rosa de Yavarí to eat some ceviche
Walk the riverside boardwalk, especially lovely around sunset! And see boats trading goods, and people hanging out by the water enjoying the evening.
Visit the market for fresh fish, fruits and other produce
Get out on a boat trip to Lago Tarapoto, where you can spot magestic botos – endangered Amazonian river dolphins.
Take a trip out to Isla de los Micos (Monkey Island) a natural reserve on an island that’s home to over 5,000 friendly (but wild, not contained) squirrel monkeys
Visit the magnificent Victoria Amazonica(giant waterlilies) of the Amazon at the Victoria Amazonica natural reserve, a quick 15 minutes boat trip from Leticia
Giant waterlilies at the Victoria Amazonica natural reserve
What do you eat in the Amazon rainforest?
Fish from the river no surprises here – river fish is one of the most abundant food sources around, and you can get yourself a delicious grilled fish at just about any restaurant in town. You can try pirarucu (one of the largest freshwater fish on earth) and even piranha (which are delicious, it turns out)
Plantains fried up and served with everything plantains are the ubiquitous starch of Central and South America. Leticia is no different, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t indulge. Also make sure to try fish cooked in a parcel of plantain leaves – so delicious!
Yuca (manioc/cassava) another starchy vegetable that holds high regard in the region is the yuca. There are so many different varieties, and ways to use or eat it. It can be roasted and mashed, used as a thickener, even fermented into a spicy paste. The yuca is also used for ceremonial purposes, and different varieties are grown by various indigenous groups widely throughout the Amazon.
Limonada de coco is a Colombian staple, and you’ll find it all around the country. But it feels especially refreshing here amidst the sticky heat of the jungle and is perfect after a long day of hiking and canoeing.
Where did I stay in Leticia?
Whether you’re looking for an authentic jungle camp, or something a little more familiar, there are a number of choices for stays in Leticia. Hotel Anaconda is a famous tourists choice for a little more luxury, but I opted to stay first in treehouses, then in a reasonably priced guesthouse/hostel with fan cooled rooms and a pool.
Reserva Natural Tanimboca: This is a nature reserve built on new-growth jungle. I stayed two nights in their traditional Amazonian treehouses and took advantage of the night jungle tours, included meals, and zip-lining/river canoeing package.
Hostel Casa de las Palmas was my stay in the Leticia township. They were fun, friendly, even spoke great English (unexpected! but helpful to know) and provided well priced rooms, with a fan and a shared kitchen/bathroom/pool in great walking distance from downtown Leticia. Also organise some excellent tours there that I really enjoyed.
Languages Spoken in Leticia
The primary language of Leticia is Spanish. However, many indigenous people bring their own languages with them which are spoken here, so you can often hear the languages of Tucano, Nukak, Witoto , Inga,and Ticuna people spoken.
Due to the proximity to the Brazilian border, Portuguese is also quite widely used; and due to the tourism sector you will find some people around who speak English. But it’s far less common than other more heavily touristed parts of South America.
Sunset on Lagos Yahuarcaca
How to get to Leticia
There are very few ways to arrive here. By plane from Bogota is the most common, but because Leticia is not connected to anywhere via road it’s not possible to bus, drive, or train. The airport is serviced by two airlines, both fly only to Bogota. The only other way to come is by the way of a river boat from Peru or Brazil. Some of the possible ways by boat:
Take a Peru water taxi from nearby Santa Rosa de Yavarí, Peru.
Catch twice per day boat ( ~4 hours upstream, ~2 hours downstream travel time) from Caballococha, Peru.
There are some boat services running from Iquitos, Peru. They vary in time, the fast boat is around 12 hours and the slow boat 3 days.
You can come from Manaus, Brazil via slow or fast boat, both options are long journeys! It will take around 5-7days for the slow boat, and 1.5 – 2 days for the fast boat It arrives into Tabatinga, where you can then cross into Leticia (and therefore, into Colombia)
Important notes on Yellow Fever
It’s essential that you have been vaccinated against yellow fever at least 15 days before coming to Leticia, so make sure you do that well in advance and carry your yellow fever certificate with you.
For more information on Leticia, the Amazon, and Colombia:
It was my 59th day travelling solo in India, so far my entire trip had been by train. I’d started out in New Delhi, and traversed around Rajasthan before finally making my way up to Rishikesh to stop awhile. With only one day remaining on my Indian tourist visa, it was time for me to make a swift exit up and out to Nepal.
So far, I’d loved the thrill of buying standby tickets. I enjoyed the exhilaration of laying in the hard, sleeper class bunks as the chaiwallahs passed by, and the night air streamed in through the non-air conditioned carriages.
Armed with apps, plans and a ton of research, I’d become adept at knowing which trains I would have a chance to ride on, without needing to book weeks (or months) in advance. This last ride would be no different – Haridwar in the Northern region of Uttarakhand, skimming across the Southern border of Nepal to Gorakhpur, a 17 hour train journey where I could then connect onto a relatively painless bus up and across the border into Nepal. From there, I would slowly work my way up to Kathmandu.
When good plans go wrong, time to head to Delhi
But this last ride would be the one that fell to tatters. Unbeknownst to me, it was an important holiday in the region and I would not get on any of the standby trains to Gorakhpur. After a full day of sitting in the muggy, open air Haridwar station missing train after train, admiring the magnificent Ganges, it was time to admit defeat, engage the backup plan and catch a bus to New Delhi instead. After an exhausting day, and heeding the urgent warnings of safety for the part of the city I was in after dark, I scrambled to find a quick bite before sunset. Slipping down into a street side restaurant, I accepted a plate of the curry special of the day. It was only a few bites in when the foul flavours intensified – like rotting drainwater, emanating from a chicken thigh swimming in curry not strong enough to disguise the stench. Immediately I put the plate aside, paid the bill and made for my hotel room.
But it was too late, the damage had been done. The wheels were now in motion for a horrendous case of food poisoning, or Delhi Belly as it’s far too affectionately called.
I was up at the crack of dawn, flying past the stinking trash piles and backed up, smoggy motorways of New Delhi in the back of a flaming fast and bounding tuktuk en route to meet my bus. It was not a bus station, nor even a bus stop to be honest. Just a rickety old bus, parked under a big bridge, in who-knows-where Delhi. But, there was a bus at least, and one I had a ticket for at that. Horrendously unprepared, with a single water bottle and no snacks, I took my seat on a cracked vinyl seat for the 25 hour bus trip I’d barely had time to plan for, one that a good friend of mine had taken just days before and sent dire warnings of windy roads and a long, upright journey.
The bus was full of Indian and Nepalese passengers, making their way between the two neighbouring countries. Behind me sat two Israeli girls, the only other foreigners on this journey.
Crawling out of Delhi, bound for the Bhimdatta border crossing
After a long while the sprawling neighbourhoods and slums of Delhi faded into rural villages and small farms, oxen roamed the roads and smiling men peddled cigarettes, candy, and tea through the open windows of waiting cars and busses. My stomach began to churn, innocently at first. Perhaps I hadn’t had enough breakfast, or maybe I was a touch carsick. I tried all the distraction techniques I could think of – napping, meditating, breathing, and finally just ignoring it and watching a show on my iPad. The sickness lingered, but didn’t seem to intensify.
As I was settling in to nap, the girl behind me fell ill to motion sickness from the windy, bumpy roads. Hearing the sounds of her vomiting did little to instil hope in me for my own digestive system state, and I tried to block the sounds out and focus on relaxation.
We lurched forward into our 1144 Kilometer journey, heading out to the East through the state of Uttar Pradesh, then up into Uttarakhand. We drove through stretches of jungle just before the border that I was later to learn exist as a hub of exciting wildlife – full of leopards, elephants, bears, tigers, monkeys, and snakes.
We’d been on the road many hours at this point, but the journey was just beginning. It was time to stop at Banbasa, on the border where Bhimdatta in the Western end of Nepal meets Uttrakhand in the Northern parts of India. If I’d made smarter choices, this is where I would’ve spent the night. I was also later to learn I could’ve caught a bus here directly from Haridwar where this all started, rather than backtrack my way around Northern India to Delhi. But, alas, we live and learn and don’t always find the best options in the heat of the moment.
I’m still to this day unclear why I made the choice to travel direct to Kathmandu. I think the distance felt like a grand journey, rather than a poorly planned misadventure.
Allow me to introduce you to my chariot. Sorry for the blur, it’s the best pic I’ve got!
The Banbasa Canal Range and Immigration Office
Banbasa is where we would stop the bus to make our border crossing into Nepal, through the Immigration India office placed quite incredibly overtop of the Banbasa Canal Range, no less. It’s one of the popular border crossing spots, thanks to having both Indian and Nepalese immigration offices on either side of the magnificent canals.
Nepalese and Indian nationals may cross at this border unrestricted, but for third country nationals such as myself, there is a customs checkpoint on either side. To make matters more interesting, the two offices were separated by large bridges that the busses were not allowed to carry passengers over. So we were let out of the bus, and asked to walk.
Not that I minded, of course. I was feeling quesy and stretching my legs & getting some fresh air felt excellent. The busload of passengers had a long wait time, as myself and the other two foreigners had to go through our own private immigration process in small offices on each side of the border.
Lions, Tigers, Bears, Oh My!
By the time we reached Nepal to catch up with our bus, my stomach was growling. I erred on the side of cautious optimism and assumed it was hunger, and stopped at a roadside stall for a hot bag of samosas to munch on. Our bus pulled out into the Western corner of Nepal, snaking through gorgeous little villages and around the edges of the Shuklaphanta Wildlife Reserve and Bengal Tiger Conservation Unit. The samosas were not easing my stomach, but I was thrilled and delighted to spy signs on the wild roadsides asking drivers to drive respectfully and not disrupt the tigers.
As the winding hills and altitude increased, so did my nausea. In an instant, I was vomiting into a plastic shopping bag I had nearby, nursing a warm back of sick on my lap. Everything went downhill from there (except the bus, of course – that carried on relentlessly through the snaking, hilly, Himalayan foothills of Western Nepal, whether I liked it or not)
I tied the bag up as tightly as I could, but not before managing to spill oh-so-much of its contents over my now disgustingly sticky lap. I was in cold sweats, slick with rapidly cooling sick and still heaving out the window I’d opened, much to the disdain of the other passengers as the air conditioning and fans wouldn’t work if a window was opened even a crack. Or so the incensed bus driver informed me.
From Bad to Worse, with 15 hours to go.
In no uncertain terms I let everyone know I would need to continue vomiting out of the window, unless somebody had a suitable vessel for me to procure. Which they didn’t, of course, so off we went – no air conditioning, and a continuous streak of pulverised samosas building a racing stripe down the outside of the bus.
And this is how thing went for many hours. I could not hold water down, and I was becoming more and more aware I may need a hospital. But more than that, I was terrified of getting off the bus and finding myself in a small, remote village without access to healthcare. With over 15 hours left in the trip, the only reasonable option seemed to me to wait it out until the end, and seek some respite and a doctor in Kathmandu.
The remainder of the journey passes in a blurry montage. I’m fevery and sticky, the girls behind my seat have taken a keen interest in making sure I’m okay, and trying to ply me with travel sickness pills and electrolytes from their travel medicine kits.
As it turns out, life is beautiful
Eventually we stopped. I have no idea where it was, or what time it was in this point. But it’s the most poignant memory from the Nepal leg of the trip.
It was time for dinner, and as usual, the bus driver had a pre-arranged rest stop for us to grab a bite, use the rest rooms and take a break from the road. This was my chance – a bathroom! A private space to change my pants to something clean! A wash basin! All my dreams of that night come true. I didn’t dare eat nor drink, save for a sip of a cold sprite I’d bought just in case it would stay down. But I relished the opportunity to clean up, get some air, and return to the bus a new person.
One of the girls turned to me, ‘you’re lucky you have vomiting food poisoning – can you imagine if it was coming out the other end like this instead?‘ I laughed, and laughed, possibly deliriously at this point. But she was so right, what a silver lining that was!
Right as expected the sickly taste of sprite found its way up to my throat, and I stumbled over to a large tree beside the bus where I could be sick in peace. As I was sitting there, hand on the tree bark, hunched over vomiting, I saw a small cloud of flickering fireflies – the first I’d ever seen. I was in absolute awe at despite seeing it through the veil of fevery haze, just how beautiful this incredible country was, and how kind the people I’d met along my way were.
I finally arrived into Kathmandu
Somehow we did eventually make it to Kathmandu. As the trip progressed, I managed to get more fever-dreamed sleep in and the time passed more quickly. The girls had decided I needed a hospital, and being the excellent and well prepared travellers they were, they already knew of one I should go to that came highly recommended by their books and insurance documents.
I spent a few days recuperating, resting, and getting tests taken at the CIWEC Hospital and Travel Medicine Centre where I was incredibly well taken care of. My Insurance company (World Nomads) really came through for me, and the staff at the hospital were beyond amazing. For all my fears of finding myself without adequate healthcare were unfounded in this case, and I was able to leave for my hostel just a few days later after they ruled out the nasties like malaria, and decided it was indeed a severe case of food poisoning, something they see often in travellers arriving from New Delhi.
Initially, I stayed at Kasthamandap Travellers Home which I also whole heartedly recommend. Not just because their rooftop views are amazing, but also because they learned I’d been sick in hospital, so upgraded my room from a large dorm to just a 2 bed room, where I mostly was on my own. When I did require company, they made sure to bunk me up with a kind and quiet lady who was wonderful company. In the first few days they had people come check on me to make sure I was eating, and in general they went above and beyond to care for me and make my stay as lovely as possible while I recovered from the ordeal.
All in all, I got very lucky. My trip was filled with disasters, yes. But also beautiful places, moments of intense gratitude and I experienced the enormous kindness of so many strangers.
Jardin de Balata hadn’t originally made it onto my to-do list, but as I slipped through a hillside tropical paradise of palms, ferns, tropical flowers and flitting hummingbirds I quickly realised what a mistake missing this would’ve been. It seems obvious now, that Martinique, the place known as the island of flowers would be a good place to visit some gardens!
Horticulturist and poet Jean-Phillipe Thoze began cultivating the garden of his dreams, travels and childhood memories on the land of his grandmother’s traditional creole home in 1982. By 1986 (coincidentally, the year I was born), he opened up his masterpiece to the public and put on display the many different varieties of tropical plants he had collected from his many trips around the world.
Nowadays you can spot around 3,000 varieties of tropical plants, gathered from all around the globe, and you can loose yourself for hours admiring the abundance of begonias, magnificent bromeliads, anthuriums, water lilies, and an impressive 300 varieties of palm trees.
It was humid and drizzly on arriving, in the most charming of misty-tropical-jungle type ways. Everything was lush and green, hummingbirds were abundance and in every possible way it felt like paradise.
The entrance is the glorious traditional house where you pay your entrance fee, and the super friendly staff do also speak English if you need it! Once we’d made our way inside, we were immediately treated to a swarm of beautiful hummingbirds feeding on the bird feeders tethered to the verandah, looking out over breathtaking view across the rainforest.
The Treetop Canopy Walk
A new attraction to the Jardin de Balata is the treetop canopy walk, which allows you up high on robe bridges to see the gardens from, quite literally, new heights. It does get quite high up, and the experience is magnificent. It’s a beautiful way to experience even more levels of the garden, and sweeping views out to the The Pitons du Carbet, the nearby hills which are the guardians of Balata!
Getting to Jardin de Balata
It’s an easy drive from Fort-de-france, and on this occasion we brought our rental car over here as a part of a larger road trip around the Northern parts of Martinique. From Fort-de-france, take the Morne Rouge exit by the route de la trace. If you’re coming from the other side (St Pierre) then take the exit at the bottom of the descent, in the direction of Morne Rouge on the route de la trace.
But you can also arrive via public transport by using the bus from Fort-de-france, To do this, take line L25 from Fort de France, the route travels from Aliker to Jardin de Balata. Get off the bus just outside the exit. This bus travels approximately every 30 mins except for on Sundays and public holidays. The fare costs around €1.50 and takes 20 minutes to arrive.
Best time to visit Jardin de Balata
There isn’t a bad time to visit, although if you ask the staff they’ll let you know afternoons are the best time for some tranquility. It rains a lot up here, and if you read some guides they will say it rains year round at this height! But I went in the rain and the mist was magical, and certainly not a reason to hesitate visiting.
What to look out for .. Flora
The extraordinary grounds are home to around 3000 species of tropical plants (See the full collection here) from as far afield as Malaysia, Guyana, Phillipines, Jamaica, Madagascar, Ecuador, China, Japan, West Indies, South Pacific, Brazil, Australia, India, Mexico, Réunion, Colombia, Sumatra, Solomon Islands, Vietnam, Egypt, New Zealand, Peru, Cameroon, Indonesia, Java.. amongst others.
Some things to look out for on your stroll around the gardens:
Towering White Latanier (Bismarckia nobilis)
Porcelain Rose (Phaeomeria magnifica)
South American bromeliads(Bromeliaceae)
Hanging lobster claw(Heliconia rostrata)
Laceleaf(Anthurium)
Balisiers(including Heliconia caribaea purpurea)
Red Alpinia(Alpinia purpurata)
Hibiscus (Hibiscus)
Wild orchids(Orchidaceae)
Exotic water lilies(Nymphaeaceae)
Variegated pandanus(Pandanus baptistii variegata)
Bamboo(Bambusa vulgaris)
Cinnamon tree(Cinnamomum zeylanicum)
Philodendrums(various varieties)
Ti plant / palm lily (Cordilyne terminalis) Which have come from New Zealand!
What to look out for .. Fauna
There are not many creatures whom live at the Jardin de Balata, but if you look carefully there are some wonderful species to be seen. While you’re exploring, keep your eyes peeled for the following:
Frogs Martinique is home to four species of frog, and one toad – if you’re lucky, you may spot one lounging about on the lillypads in one of the ponds.
Green geckos / Anoli(Anolis fuscoauratus) these little critters are one of the most likely visitors you’ll spot here! They love lazing in the sun and scurrying around the plans.
Hummingbird there are four types of hummingbird in Martinique – the crested hummingbird (Orthorhyncus cristatus), the falle-vert hummingbird (Eulampis holosericeus)– The blue-headed hummingbird (Cyanophaia bicolor) and the Madeira hummingbird (Eulampis jugularis). During my visit, the falle-vert, or purple throated carib was the main hummingbird I spotted, but if you keep an eye out you can spot the others too!
Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola) Known locally as sucrier à ventre jaune, these pretty little birds are noticeably by their bright yellow chests, and enjoy hanging around the gardens.
Matoutou Falaise (Antilles pinktoe tarantula) the avicularia versicolor, also called Matoutou Falaise, is a protected species here in Martinique where it’s a native species, it is absolutely forbidden to capture one of these treasures… It is considered to be one of the most beautiful tarantulas in the world, they are born blue, and change color as they grow up. It is the queen of Jardin de Balata and if you’re extra lucky you might spot one (I didn’t though, maybe next time!)
Butterflies it’s only natural that the island of flowers also plays home to a host of colourful butterflies. From swallowtails to Junonias, you’ll spot beautiful butterflies fluttering around the flowers here.
What to do Nearby
On your way back down to Fort de France, don’t forget to stop in at the Balata Cathedral (Sacré-Cœur de Balata) It was built in 1925 as an exact replica of Sacré-Cœur in Montmartre, Paris.
Alternatively, you can continue on to the north and explore the city of St Pierre, a city formally known as the Paris of the Caribbean before it was destroyed by a volcanic eruption in 1902. Nowadays, it’s still a wonderful place to visit as there are many historic remains, and the Musée vulcanologique Franck Perret, which is a fascinating volcanological museum.
There is an over abundance of information on New Zealand out there, and for good reason – it’s a super popular tourism spot and people want more information before planning their trip!
But today, I promise you – this is not an itinerary nor is it a packing list.
This is an encyclopaedia of sorts, an alphabet of things that a local (me!) thinks people should know to better understand not just the tourist sites, but also the culture of this beautiful country.
So read on, for an A to Z of things you probably never realised you needed to know about beautiful Aotearoa.
Aotearoa is the M?ori name for New Zealand, and the most popular direct translation for the word means land of the long white cloud which refers to the cloud formations Polynesian navigators used to find the country to begin with.
You will find this name used frequently when referring to the country also known as New Zealand.
How to Pronounce Aotearoa? If you’re unsure how to pronounce this, watch the video below:
B is for Beaches
New Zealand is made up of many different islands, which means we are a nation with beaches just about every where you look! No matter where you are in the country, it’s never too far to drive to find a beach.
There’s a beach for just about everyone:
Rugged, rough, rain-forested beaches: Visit the West Coast of the South Island
Soft, golden sand & clear water beaches: Check out the Tasman region in the top of the South Island, the gorgeous Coromandel region, and the Bay of Islands on the east coast of the North Island.
Excellent Surfing Beaches: Get yourself to Raglan, on the east coast, south of Auckland
Magical, Wild, Prehistoric Beaches with Black Sand and Waterfalls: Visit any of the beaches in the Waitakere ranges, West of Auckland
Scenic Fjords and Mountainous Backdrops: Get thee down to the far south of the South Island.
Clear waters, hidden beaches, lush forests full of glowworms and waterfalls – The Coromandel is a magical region in the North Island, a few hours drive from Auckland.
When people ask me my favourite region of New Zealand, or where they should visit, The Coromandel is usually the first answer out of my mouth.
It’s difficult in a land famed for scenery and nature to explain that these are the same reasons The Coromandel is so special. But, there is something wondrous about it that’s hard to describe.
Some of the best things to see & do on the Coromandel are:
Hot Water Beach is one of New Zealand’s most unique and famous beaches – come prepared with a shovel and dig yourself a hot pool in the sands. Sounds bizarre, but it’s pretty incredible!
On the topic of beaches, Cathedral Cove involves a bit of a walk but is well worth it to see the iconic rock archway and beautiful beach that lies ahead.
For the most incredible day trip to a thermal resort, try the magical Lost Spring
Dunedin is an underrated town in the South Island of New Zealand. Primarily known by locals as a student town, Dunedin is home to the University of Otago.
It is also interesting for a bunch of other reasons
It is a Scottish colony originally, the name Dunedin originates from Dùn Èideann, the Gaelic name for Edinburgh
But this isn’t the only reason Dunedin calls itself the Edinburgh of the South – the city was designed based on a map of the Edinburgh old city. You can compare the two maps here if you’re curious
Living on the Pacific Ring of Fire lends us to all kinds of geological activity, and unfortunately natural disasters too.
Most recently, my own hometown of Christchurch was taken down by a monstrous magnitude 7.2 earthquake, followed by a significant number of large and damaging aftershocks. 10 years on and the city is still rebuilding and recovering.
If you’re visiting Christchurch, the Quake City earthquake museum is the best way to get an insight into those difficult days. It’s a thoughtful and informative exhibit that anyone wanting to understand the forces that have shaped my city should visit and learn from.
When visiting New Zealand, it’s a great idea to brush up on earthquake safety so you feel comfortable knowing what to do in case you get caught in one. This is a great earthquake safety resource.
F is for Fox Glacier
Love Glaciers? New Zealand is a great place to visit some magnificent ones. The Fox Glacier is one of the most accessible glaciers in the world, so you don’t need special mountaineering equipment or a heli-trip to see it (although those are possible, too)
Yep, I said it. Giant Snails. I’ll give you a moment to process that before we move on.
Here in New Zealand we don’t have many creatures that are dangerous, or poisonous, or venomous. Instead, we have the magnificent Powelliphanta, or giant snail.
Found only in New Zealand, the Powelliphanta is a large, carnivorous snail that at its largest grows up to 9cm / 90g (so certainly not large enough to harm a human!)
Arriving into New Zealand, you may find yourself bewildered by some of our culinary terminology.
Fries, Chips, Crisps – all of these are called chips to us. I hear it gets confusing sometimes, but I promise it’s all about context.
Hotdogs + Corn Dogs = both hotdogs here (sometimes we we will call the variety in a bun an American hotdog for good measure) and what Americans call a corndog, is generally the kind of hotdog you’d find at a fish and chip shop.
Which brings me to my next point: Fish and Chips. A Kiwi staple, and you can get them in any neighbourhood, country wide. Watties Tomato Sauce is a must-have accompaniment (yep, we call ketchup sauce here)
And finally, any self respecting NZ burger comes with a slice of beetroot & a fried egg inside. It’s not weird, it’s delicious.
I is for island, the North Island, the South Island, and around 600 more!
New Zealand is not just a two or three island nation, despite what you may have been told! Actually, Aotearoa is made up of over 600 different islands!
Most of them are not inhabited (by humans, anyhow!)
Some of them are used as wildlife refuges for our native birdlife that need a little predator-free support, and some of them are even Volcanoes that you can explore, like the magnificent Rangitoto Island just off the coast of Auckland.
While it’s true we have three primary islands: The North Island (Te Ika-a-M?ui) , The South Island (Te Waipounamu), and Stewart Island (Rakiura); we do also have a number of other human inhabited islands:
The Other Islands of Aotearoa
Waiheke Island, just off the coast of Auckland City is a vibrant hub of vineyards , gorgeous beaches and a population over 9000 people.
Great Barrier Island (Aotea) is a little further afield, but still populated with around 850 permanent residents, liveable & beautiful to visit.
The Chatham Islands (R?kohu meaning Misty Sun in Moriori, or Wharekauri in M?ori) are not one island, but an archipelago with a resident population of over 600 people, an airport, and their own timezone.
The Marlborough Sounds are made up of a number of islands, including two inhabited ones: D’Urville Island (Rangitoto ki te Tonga) and Arapaoa Island.
Matakana Island in the Bay of Plenty is home to thousands of acres of farm, orchards, and native forests as well as around 225 people
Raoul Island in the Kermadec Island group is historically highly volcanic, and difficult to reach, yet still is home for to a government meteorological and radio station as well as a hostel for Department of Conservation (DOC) officers and volunteers who come to the island.
Kawau Island is not far from Auckland in the Hauraki Gulf, and although pretty small, is home to around 81 people.
Motiti Island (M?t?t?) is Northeast of Tauranga in the Bay of Plenty, and is made up of around 18 homes and an abundance of Avocado plantations.
J is for Jacinda and the New Zealand government
At the time of writing this, New Zealand is being led by a Labour government and the Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern – New Zealand’s youngest female Prime Minister being elected as Prime Minister at age 37, and also our first prime minister to be pregnant in office.. Most of us are pretty proud of her around here!
New Zealand is also pretty good with women’s rights & issues:
Jacinda is the third female to lead our country. We have also had two previous female prime ministers: Helen Clark + Jenny Shipley, with Jenny Shipley leading NZ back in 1997
New Zealand became the first nation in the world in which all women had the right to vote in parliamentary elections
Back in 1999 Georgina Beyer became the first transgender woman elected to parliament
K is for Kakapos, Keas & Kiwis
What Aotearoa lacks in large, land mammals it more than makes up in unique birdlife. The kakapo, kea and kiwi are three exceptions of native New Zealand birds found only here in Aoteroa
The Kiwi is what we are most famous for, but did you know we have 5 different types of Kiwi still alive today? They are in varying levels of endangers, and most New Zealanders may have only ever seen a Kiwi in a wildlife sanctuary as they are rare, shy, and difficult to spot in the wild.
Kakapos are a large, green, flightless parrot that is even more endangered and rare than the kiwi. In the mid nineties, we got down to as few as 50 kakapos known to be alive. Significant conservation efforts have gone into protecting the species, and thanks to homing them on predator free small islands managed by the department of conservation we are beginning to see more of these thriving.
Keas are ubiquitous, easy to find, and most definitely have the ability to fly – so these cheeky green parrots don’t share so much in common with the kakapo or the kiwi! But they are one of my favourite birds and are famous for hanging out in alpine passes and ski field parking lots and using their strong, pointy beaks to tear apart the cars of unsuspecting visitors.
L is for our Language: Sign, M?ori & New Zealand English
I’ve been asked (more than once) what language we speak here in New Zealand. The simplest answer would be English. This is the language that you will find spoken right across the country, with street signs and books and television shows primarily shown in.
However, New Zealand actually has 3 official languages :
New Zealand English
Te Reo (M?ori Language)
New Zealand Sign Language
All three have special legal status in the country, and this means that People have the right to speak Te Reo M?ori or New Zealand Sign Language in any legal proceedings. Which I think is pretty great.
M is for Matariki, the M?ori New Year.
In M?ori culture, the new year is celebrated in accordance with the stars. Matariki is a star cluster appearing through the mid winter months, in the early morning sky. When Matriki rises in the Northeast of the sky (this happens in the month of Pipiri, June-July in Aotearoa) the M?ori lunar calendar begins.
During Matariki, events take place across the country. People will gather to remember & honour their ancestors, play music, sing, tell stories and share food together.
For more information on Matariki, including the current year’s dates, the best stargazing spots in NZ, guides to Matariki events and information on each of the Matariki stars, check out this guide from 100% pure New Zealand
N is for Native New Zealand Forests
We are pretty proud of our forests and our trees, and for good reason – around 38% of the land in Aotearoa is covered in forest, with 8 million hectares of this forest being native forest.
Like birds, New Zealand has a lot of different native plant species that are considered unique, or special to us, and our native forests are generally one of two types:
Beech forests, which are made up of five different species of southern beech tree
Podocarp tree forests, which include kahikatea, miro, t?tara, mata?, and rimu trees
It’s thanks to our native trees & ferns that wandering around New Zealand has that distinct Lord of the Rings, or Fairyland-esque feel to it.
O is for Okarito, Waipoua Forest and Stewart Island – places to spot wild kiwis in Aotearoa
It’s true – spotting a kiwi bird is pretty rare! But it’s certainly not impossible. If you know where to look, there are a small selection of guided tours that will help you spot a wild NZ kiwi for real and become one of the lucky ones who gets to see the national symbol of Aotearoa.
Okarito – nestled away in the wild rainforests of the South Island’s West Coast, Okarito is a small town not too far from Franz Joseph. Okarito Kiwi Tours take small tours deep into kiwi territory to (if you’re lucky) spot wild kiwis, or at least hear their calls at night.
Waipoua Forest – up the other end of the country, in Northland at the top of the North Island is the forest sanctuary of Waipoua forest. Full of giant, ancient kauri trees you can also sometimes spot kiwis in this sub-tropical rainforest.
Stewart Island – For a really good chance of spotting a wild Kiwi, Steward Island is the place to go. The Wild Kiwi Encounter takes you on a cruise across Paterson Inlet to Little Glory Cove, where you can visit a secluded beach and spot kiwis.
P is for Pinot Noir
Here in New Zealand we produce some stunningly good wines. The most famous is undoubtedly Pinot Noir from Central Otago.
If you’re a fan of wine, then exploring our different wine regions is a great way to explore Aotearoa! You can see a guide to the wine regions of New Zealand at the New Zealand Wine site
I also recommend trying a wine tour! Whether you want to tour a small wine growing island (Waiheke has incredible wineries aplenty to discover) or cycle around central Otago on the wine trail, there are so many excellent and interesting wine tours in New Zealand. Check out Culture Trip’s Best Wine Tours in New Zealand for inspiration
Marlborough Vineyards in Autumn by Anna | Anna Meanders
Q is for Queenstown
Arguable one of New Zealand’s most well known cities, Queenstown is the capital of adventure tourism, skiing + snowboarding, and the infamous FergBurger.
Surrounded by some of the country’s most spectacular scenery, lakes, mountains, vineyards and adventure sports, it’s well worth a trip if you’re visiting New Zealand.
Thanks to the country lockdown in 2020, I was able to visit Queenstown with out all the tourists (which never happens!) and discovered for myself how truly beautiful this city is.
There is no better way to explore Aotearoa than a good ‘ol fashioned road trip. Here in New Zealand we have excellent roads, lots of beautiful places to stop, and a great road trip culture.
Unlike Australia or the United States, our country is a much more manageable size and you can see it all in less time!
Just don’t forget that we drive on the left here
Not sure where to go? Try one of these itineraries:
You’ve probably heard the rumours – more sheep than people. Well, that is true – but it’s not as true as it used to be.
As of 2019, Sheep outnumber people 5 to 1 which is still certainly more sheep than people, but nothing compared to the 1980’s where we had as many as 22 sheep for each one person!
But driving around New Zealand you will definitely see plenty of sheep, and lots of great wool products too.
I’m a big fan of NZ superfine merino, and love using Icebreaker clothes for my travels as the merino is cool in the summer, warm in the winter, doesn’t hold odour, doesn’t wrinkle, and is all round an excellent fabric for travelwear.
T is for Thermal reserves & Hot springs
Personally, I’m a touch obsessed with Maruia Springs, found in the gorgeous Maruia Valley a few hours outside of Christchurch, it’s one of my favourites.
I can’t get enough of time spent relaxing in the outdoor onsen styled rock pools, soaking up the minerals and listening to the birds in the forest and the river streaming by.
But New Zealand has a multitude of different natural hot pools, for all different styles, budgets, and occasions. Some of the best (other than Maruia, of course) include:
Even though the summer temperatures don’t get as high as other parts of the world, our UV strength is super high, and just how quickly people sunburn here catches many a visitor off guard.
To put it into perspective, our UV rating in the summer is frequently around 12, but it can exceed 13 in the far North which is considered extreme. As an approximate guide, a UV Index of corresponds to a burn time of around the same amount of minutes – so you will burn in around 12 minutes on a typical Kiwi summer day!
It’s important to wear a good sunscreen, and reapply it frequently (and after any time in the water) as well as sunglasses and a good hat if you’re out and about here in the summer months.
V is for Volcanoes
New Zealand is exceptionally volcanic, and you can see a list of the different volcanoes here. Just in the Auckland volcanic field alone there are over 50 volcanoes, which dot around the landscape of the city, mostly dormant and providing grassy hills for picnics and jogging.
There are also a number of active volcanoes in the country, currently the most notorious is the Whakaari / White Island due to a recent eruption killing 21 and injuring a further 26 visitors to the volcanic island
All of the volcanic activity makes New Zealand a great spot for researching, and recently Scientists here have invented a new volcano warning system that looks really promising for preventing future disaster.
W is for Waitomo Glow Worm Caves
Beloved by all tourists are the Waitomo glow worm caves . If you’re looking for a magical, otherworldly experience this one tops the list.
You can take a guided walk through the Ruakuri and Aranui Caves, a magical boat ride on the cave canals of the Waitomo Glow Worm cave, or float through the magical starlit grotto on an innertube (known as blackwater rafting) through the black labyrinth – these caves are massive, wondrous, and truly spectacular.
Thanks to the significantly volcanic history of Aotearoa, laced with earthquakes and geothermal activity, it is a great place to explore for geology buffs out there.
There are a number of great museums in the country to discover more:
The Crystal Mine Museum in Auckland houses New Zealand’s largest selection of rare crystals and minerals
The University of Otago Geology Museum is open to the public and contains the largest scientifically important collections of rocks, minerals and fossils in the South Island
We need to talk about yams. What you call yams, are not what we call yams.
Confused yet? Good. Let me add another layer to this – what you call yams, we call k?mara and they come in all shades of purples, blues, oranges and blacks.
What we call yams are actually thumb sized & shaped, and are also known as South American Oca. They are very delicious and I highly recommend trying them roasted for the best New Zealand yam experience.
New Zealand Yams (left) and New Zealand Yams amongst other roasting vegetables (right)
Z is for Zealand
The name New Zealand comes from the Dutch ‘Nieuw Zeeland’, this is the name that was given to us by a Dutch mapmaker – why Dutch? That’s a great question.
As it turns out, The first European to arrive on New Zealand shores was an explorer by the name of Abel Tasman. He was Dutch, and thus how the Europeans labelled the country as New Zealand on their maps.
If you were wondering, the original Zealand, or Zeeland it is the westernmost (and the least populous) province of the Netherlands.
The year was twenty-fifteen, I was an eager new explorer having recently discovered the digital nomad life and set out on a one way, endless journey across Southeast Asia. Chiang Mai had become my home base, and I was eager to explore the region.
It was the idea of leaving without a plan, I think that was the most exciting part. I had spent my first month traveling full of adventure and excitement, booking budget rooms on a whim & deciding on a day-by-day basis how long to stay before it was time to move on.
However, Since arriving in Chiang Mai and renting monthly apartments, life had become less unpredictable. I ached a little for the constant whirlwind of unplanned travel, and got itchy feet for an adventure.
Rural roads north of Chiang Mai
Renting a car in Chiang Mai & driving in Thailand
Prior to coming to Asia, I had never imagined renting a car here, images of Bangkok traffic jams filled my mind. Yet, somehow in the glow of life aboard, things eased up, knowing the roads and the culture a little better made driving a little less intimidating and a opened up more possibilities.
Yet, I was wary.
I’d not yet been scammed, stolen from or seriously ripped off in my three months in Thailand so far, but the stories of vehicle rental scams still lingered in my mind. We were cautious to ask around and research before choosing a car rental service, which really paid off.
We were pointed in the direction of a company called Budget Catcher. Small, locally owned and friendly with fantastic prices and great service. The rental car was in excellent condition, came with full premium insurance and only cost us 799 Baht per day with a 3000 baht deposit (this was in 2015, mind you – I’m sure prices are different now!)
I can’t compliment Budget Catcher enough, everything was smooth & helpful and with absolutely no issues around getting our deposit back at the end.
Driving in Thailand is no-where near as bad as I imagined (not that I was the driver on this occasion, but I certainly observed) although every time you settle into the routine something bizarre and totally Thailand happens to catch you off guard again. Things like motorbikes whipping past without warning, songthaews pulling out into the wrong lane on a blind corner indicating you to undertake them and cars traveling the wrong way down four-lane super-highways.
Beautiful Countryside All Around
Brunch stop in Mae Rim, on the outskirts of Chiang Mai
Whilst busy romanticising the town of Mae Rim, I’d imagined the quaintest of small village, sumptuous local northern Thai food and wood carvers sitting roadside peddling intricately designed furniture made from local teak.
Oh, how wrong could I be.
Mae Rim is essentially a suburb of Chiang Mai and a good indication you are headed out of town, this part of town is just made for tour busses. Giant tour busses that shuttle hoards of visitors over to the nearby attractions such as tiger kingdom and the elephant camps.
The road is a busy highway and there are very few cafes or places worth stopping on the main stretch. In the end, brunch was found at See Pak Restaurant , tucked away just off the main stretch, a focus on American food (But also some good Thai to be had) with great atmosphere and good food.
Lunch under Doi Chiang Dao
The industrial buildings and run-down abandoned store fronts thinned out, and all remnants of the city faded into the background as we spent the next hour or so venturing towards the Chiang Dao caves. Houses gave way to rice paddies, dense jungle and farmland as we eased our way up into the mountain ranges of northern Chiang Mai.
The air was a little cooler up here, but still smokey from the nearby residents burning piles of reeds, as well as the far-off hill tribes that burn parts of the forest supposedly encouraging the growth of a rare and profitable mushroom.
The ‘Burning Season’ is unfortunately a yearly event for northern Thailand, as well as parts of Myanmar and Laos, driving many expats and tourists south to other parts of the country from February until April.
Heading down a particularly scenic stretch of road we stopped in at a local restaurant for lunch. It had an impressive amount of landscaping, and a large tranquil pond with a small jetty jutting out. Manicured gardens, colourful flowers and intricate sculptures surrounded the jungle-like dining area where we sat & devoured fish with herbs and lime sauce.
Ambling back out to the car, full and satisfied with the delicious meal and such gorgeous natural settings, it was time to continue the journey up to the Chiang Dao caves.
Thai Style Whole Fish Served up with loads of spices, garlic & saladBeautiful dining experience outside of Doi Chiang Dao
Exploring the Chiang Dao caves
Entering the Chiang Dao cave began with a walk through a tiny, picturesque mountain village dotted with cute little coffee shops and vendors selling fresh, locally produced coffee.
A huge golden entrance archway loomed over head as we admired the incredible scenery.
Orange-robed monks (a familiar sight in Thailand) meandered through pathways and gardens to intricately designed buildings and temples, woman sat in a covered pavilion weaving baskets with their hands.
The only thing separating us from a large, stone staircase heading into the mountain now was a bridge passing over the temple’s pond, with fat orange Koi Carp and gigantic catfish swimming around peacefully as a small green turtle floated over top.
Magnificent koi ponds at the entrance to the Chiang Dao caves
Heading up and then down into the cave was similarly film-worthy. Buddhas carved into the stone walls and shrines on the floor. We soon met our guide who carried a lantern to guide our way as we descended into a deep and dark cave full of ancient buddhist treasures.
The air was thick and humid, much warmer than the air we had left behind outside.
Huge limestone formations hung all around we were led through areas the height of a football stadium, and tunnels so small we needed to crawl through. Throughout the journey, different limestone formations had been named by the locals and decorated with ribbons to honour them, we passed many different shapes – families of frogs, birds and a large formation in the shape of an elephant lung.
Just the fact that wildlife existed in a cave initially surprised me, the environment was different than I pictured and clearly more conductive to living things. The first living thing I encountered was one of the largest spiders I have ever seen; much more pleasing to me were all the small black bats hanging from the ceiling of the cave further in.
The Chiang Dao cave was a wondrous visit.
Adorable Coffee Shop Outside Chiang Dao Caves
A detour to Pai for the night
We left Chiang Dao caves in high spirits, and with itchy feet to see more of this part of the country. In an overly optimistic moment we grossly underestimated the time and effort it would take to reach the town of Pai, and booked ourselves in a room there for the night.
Many of the five hours that followed involved me relaxing solo at an isolated, rural, roadside gas station as the sun set while my partner in crime ventured off in search of the nearest ATM to pay for the gas we’d pumped, at the gas station who only took cash.
Once that debacle came to completion, we moved on to a very tumultuous ascent into the steep, windy and dark roads that lead to Pai.
It was months later before I learned most visitors just take the small plane over, rather than risk these treacherous roads.
I would advise anybody following in my footsteps to make this journey in the daylight.
As it turns out, our accommodation had pinned themselves at the wrong location on Google maps. As we sat parked down a dark gravel road in rural Pai, wondering what on earth to do next, we encountered two lost girls on a motorbike who by chance were looking for the same place.
By 10.30pm we had checked into our room for the night, at the lovely and accordingly well-rated (but at the time inaccurately mapped) Baan Katisod.
Late night dining in Pai
Due to the restaurants en-route to Pai all being closed after dark, by the time we reached our room we were ravenous and exhausted. After a quick drive down the road in a semi-zombie state we stumbled upon a surprisingly stunning restaurant that had recently opened, and were still available to put us together some dinner.
Thien Artspace is , I believe, also an art gallery. We arrived too late to spot any art, but the whole establishment was a work of art in itself. Meticulously designed with very trendy Asian influence in mind there was all manner of indoor & outdoor seating, mostly involving beautiful cushions and low tables. The ceiling was designed like a woven basket and a koi pond complete with bridge led you from the entrance, past the DJ table over to the bar.
Santichon, Northern Thailand
Seeing Pai in the daylight
On the second day of our northern Thailand adventure I woke to an unfamiliar experience – the cold. Not something I’d felt for almost three months of traveling now.
It was a nice experience to be snuggled into a cosy bed with a mosquito net fort while the air was crisp and cool. However, the climate in Pai in this sleepy mountain village is only cold throughout the night, with daytime temperatures this time of year soaring up to the early-mid 30’s (celsius, that is) in the afternoon.
Pai a very scenic mountain village that has had a tourism boom over the past 5 or so years, transforming from a sleepy town full of hill-tribe locals to a melting pot of alternative and ‘hippy’ tourists from around the world. It is pretty easy to find a yoga school, pair of harem pants or an affordable bungalow amongst the rice paddies to sleep in at night.
Mid-morning we ventured out into our first daytime viewing of Pai, and it was just as scenic as we had hoped. Mountains, hills and greenery everywhere. Beautiful buildings, rivers and rice paddies, quite the change from Chiang Mai city that we have become used to. We visited the walking street market and had a quick and easy breakfast at a Thai-German cafe.
Originally planning to look around the town longer, our attempts at extending the car rental failed and in order to make it through the hilly-pass before sunset we would need to get a move on. After reviewing the internet for things to do, we decided to head west for the afternoon.
Sight-Seeing at Santichon
Not far out of Pai is a Chinese village that goes by the name of Santichon, settled by escapees from Yunnan, Southwest China.
It was incredibly beautiful, with so much attention paid to the details. At some moments it felt more like a theme park than an actual village, however behind the ‘tourist’ part there is a definite community settlement.
There are lots of tiny little Chinese houses decorated with ornaments and lanterns selling a variety of teas, ornaments, and Chinese sweets. I taste-tested a beautiful jasmine fragranced green tea, admired all the gorgeous tea sets and brought a bottle of coffee wine that had been produced in nearby Chiang Rai.
The main road into the Chinese village was well signposted, and lined with street vendors selling a variety of Chinese tea, snacks, trinkets and food.
Vendors at the Santichon entrance
Snacking at the Jungle Cafe
Continuing on the journey up into the hills, in search of waterfalls, we arrived upon a stretch of road dotted with small cafés. The Jungle Cafe was the winner of my attention.
It was idyllic, my idea of total relaxation. Sunny & surrounded by nature, reggae music, hammocks and good food. A couple of backpackers were playing on the pool-table while I enjoyed a delicious fruit salad of mandarins, dragon fruit and papaya with yoghurt and honey. I would love to have found this spot sooner & stayed for a week more.
The Jungle Cafe – A dream chillout spotSo laid back, so many hammocks
Waterfalls at Mo Paeng
Winding up and into the hills in such perfect weather was as good as it sounds, it was a welcome break to be out in nature again. The Mo Paeng waterfalls were only a few more minutes up the hill from the Jungle Cafe and when we arrived we found a few other tourists around sunbathing, however it certainly wasn’t overcrowded or unpleasant.
All up, Mo Paeng waterfalls are only 9km outside of Pai and are an easy spot to find if you are looking for some big flat rocks to sunbathe on, beautiful natural scenery and pools to swim in. The water was quite cool and nobody was swimming, but on hotter days people dip into the clear pools and are often seen using the flat rocks of the waterfall as a natural waterslide.
The basin is surrounded by banana palms & jungle and as you kick back & relax in the sun you can spot a number of differently coloured butterflies.
From the carpark at the top, the waterfalls are only a couple of minutes walk away. Unlike some other waterfalls in the region these are very easily accessible and suitable even for people without hiking gear or the stamina to walk for long distances.
Waterfalls at Mo Paeng
The long drive home to Chiang Mai
The journey back to Chiang Mai was a race against the sun. After the harrowing experiences of driving on the 1096 in the dark the night before, getting to the other side of the hill range before sun-down became rather important to us.
Driving these roads during the day was much easier than at night, the scenery much better too. There are various national parks, geysers, hot-springs and street vendors selling the usual bits and pieces.
Stopping at a roadside restaurant & market it quickly became apparent that this was where the tour-buses were paid to stop. Lot’s of seating, low quality food & over-pricing tend to be the standard in these tour-bus truck-stop areas. The food looked unappetising and the chicken was sitting out in the sun, pre cut into un-appetising little bits ready to be cooked. We skipped on the meal and loaded up on pre-packed snacks before continuing on our journey.
We made it out of the hills just as the sun was setting and joined the rush-hour traffic heading back through Mae Rim to Chiang Mai, feeling rather pleased with ourselves for successfully navigating the Thai roads.
Beautiful views around the Northern Chiang Mai region & villages
Overall, it was a magical 2 days. We experienced rural Thailand, jungles, waterfalls, caves and temples as well as observing what life is like closer to the Burmese border. Thanks to avoiding the ‘big’ tourist attractions around Mae Rim and focusing more on natural attractions it was also a very cost effective trip. If you are in or around Chiang Mai, I highly recommend hiring a car, bike or driver and getting out and exploring – there is so much beauty you will miss if you spend your entire stay in Chiang Mai!
