Tag: Gratitude

After years of searching for the next adventure, I’ve learned that gratitude might be the most important travel skill of all. These posts explore what I’m thankful for—from the small daily joys of life in Australia to the profound privilege of the experiences I’ve had. They’re my reminder to myself to notice the good stuff.

  • The Journey to WordPress: A Legacy of Love and Code

    A storm, a lightning strike, an earthquake, and a dying father’s prophecy (yes, really!). This is the story of how grief, adventure, and a bit of fate carried me from a nomadic life to a role at Automattic, where I’ve spent almost eight years helping build and contribute to WordPress (and WordPress.com, Jetpack, WooCommerce and other Automattic products). Now, as Automattic celebrates its 20th birthday, I’ve been reflecting on that wild, beautiful path; and how it all somehow led me exactly where I was meant to be.

    I’m a little late to the party writing this reflection on Automattic’s 20th anniversary. Not because I forgot, or because I don’t care, but because I’ve been sitting with how to piece together a story that feels both impossible and inevitable at the same time.

    Almost eight years ago now, I was standing soaked to the bone in a hotel room in Oaxaca, Mexico, hanging wet clothes everywhere after lightning had literally struck in front of us during a massive storm. Hours later, an 8+ magnitude earthquake would shake the city. The next morning, I’d stuff my suitcase with damp, gross laundry and board the first of two overnight flights to Whistler, Canada, to start a job I was still convinced was too good to be true.

    But let me back up.

    The Prophecy

    My father was a computing lecturer who did some contract software development on the side. He was the kind of dad who taught his daughter QBasic in the early 90s, when most kids didn’t even have home computers, let alone girls learning to code. We did logic puzzles together. He loaned me programming books as I grew up. We talked about code the way other families talked about sports.

    I learned PHP in my teens and had hobby projects scattered everywhere, including local bbPress installs and eventually WordPress once it became a thing. (Fun fact: WordPress’s birthday, May 27th, is also my birthday – just a different year. Some signs are more obvious than others.)

    But life took me in different directions. I became a chef, tried medical school, worked as a bartender, became a flight attendant. For years, I nomaded around the world, freelancing – writing, attempting graphic design (definitely not my thing!), building WordPress sites, and fixing WordPress problems. My dad had always thought I’d come back to computing eventually.

    During the early days of those nomadic years, my father got cancer. I thought we had five years together, so I returned to New Zealand to spend whatever time he had left with him. Dad connected me with people who needed WordPress consulting work – fixing plugins, designing custom themes, the whole spectrum. He was building a bridge for me back to the world he’d always believed I belonged in.

    Dad didn’t live five years. He didn’t even live two months past when I got back. Devastating for me.

    Near the end, I told him maybe I should settle down and get a proper job. “How about a travel agent?” I suggested. “I’ve seen the world, my geography is excellent, I was a flight attendant – I know airports and airlines.”

    He looked at me and said no, I would be so bored in an office. I would hate it. Don’t give up, he told me. He thought my future was WordPress. Not development, not computers, not even PHP specifically. WordPress. He didn’t know why, but he had a feeling.

    The Journey

    After Dad died, I had enough inheritance not to work for a while. Once we sorted his affairs, I set off across Asia by train – honoring his two greatest passions: trains and Asian travel. I started in Singapore and wound through Malaysia, Thailand, China, and Mongolia, then flew to Albania and traveled up through the Balkans to France. I blogged about the journey. Sometimes I wondered what I might do next, but there was no pressure. The money was holding out, and I was processing grief in motion.

    Then, in some Facebook freelancers group, a job posting appeared.

    It wasn’t just any job. It was THE WordPress job. At Automattic. The company behind WordPress.com, the very platform that had been part of my life for years. And the requirements? Customer support, but technical. People person, but code. WordPress experience. Remote work welcome.

    It felt like a message from Dad.

    The Impossible Interview

    I applied, terrified and convinced it was too good to be true. Imposter syndrome was screaming in my ears, but in hindsight, I was such a perfect fit.

    The entire interview process was conducted via text – no voice or video calls. I was impressed by this intentional approach to avoid bias based on how someone looks or speaks. Then came the trial: a month-long process that started with over 50 people and worked like Survivor, with eliminations each week until around 20 of us got hired.

    The Grand Entrance

    In 2017, Automattic’s Grand Meetup was in Whistler, Canada. It also happened to be my first day of work. And it came exactly one week after I had moved to Mexico.

    The timing was absurd. I’d been in Oaxaca City less than a week. At Cancun airport, I’d gotten scammed by the taxi mafia (that’s a whole other blog post). I frantically searched for a six-month rental while staying in a hotel, finally found the perfect place, and signed the lease. As I left the apartment, that massive storm broke. Lightning struck directly in front of me. Water rushed rapids down the roads waist-high. I reached the hotel completely soaked.

    That night: the earthquake. Coming from Christchurch, which had its own devastating earthquake, I had serious PTSD. The ground shaking in a foreign country, in a job that still felt like a dream, pushed every anxiety button I had.

    The next morning, I stuffed wet laundry into my suitcase and began the long journey to Canada to start a job I was still half-convinced was fake.

    All new hires had to give a flash talk at the Grand Meetup. I wrote mine on the plane, about the incredible journey that had brought me there – including the overland Asia trip after Dad’s death, the inheritance that gave me freedom, the Facebook post that felt like destiny. It’s been almost eight years since that day, and I can still feel the electricity of that moment.

    In fact, with a little light digging, I was even able to find the recording of that very talk:

    The Work

    I started as a WordPress.com Happiness Engineer, which sounds like typical customer support but is so much more. It’s technical support with real responsibility – working in GitHub, debugging, writing CSS and JavaScript. In 2021, I transitioned to Code Wrangler, where I’ve been ever since.

    The nomadic lifestyle continued for years. I worked from a jungle house in Costa Rica, poolside in Nicaragua, all over Mexico from coast to coast and mountains in between, Portugal, back home in New Zealand during COVID. Forty-two countries in total, many of them while at Automattic.

    Since meeting my Mexican partner and having a baby born in Mexico, we’ve settled in Australia where I bought a house and work from my home office. But those years of nomading while building code that powers WordPress sites around the world? That was living the dream in ways I couldn’t have imagined.

    The Circle

    Now I contribute directly to the ecosystem of a product that has been important to me for so long. When I attend events and tell people I work for Automattic, that I write code that helps power WordPress, I feel a pride that connects back to those early days learning QBasic with my dad.

    He would be so proud. I’m absolutely sure of it.

    There’s something beautiful about working for a company that believes in the democratisation of publishing, in giving everyone a voice on the web. Dad believed in me when not many girls were learning to code. Automattic believes in potential in all its forms – remote workers, nomads, people with unconventional paths.

    Twenty Years

    Happy 20th birthday to Automattic. Thank you for building something that honors the web as a place where everyone belongs. Thank you for taking a chance on a nomadic WordPress consultant who saw a job posting that felt like a message from beyond. Thank you for almost eight years of growth, adventure, challenge, and the deep satisfaction of contributing to something bigger than myself.

    And Dad? You were right. My future was WordPress. I just had to trust the signs along the way.

  • An open letter to my father on his birthday

    I originally wrote this three years ago on the anniversary of my father’s 67th birthday. Today would be his 70th, so I’ve decided now is a fine time to move it off facebook and onto my blog instead. So, here we go:

    It feels stilted and uncomfortable to try and celebrate the fact you were born, when I’m still grappling with the idea that you ever left

    I’ve thought through the morning how to rustle through the grief for a thread of celebration, to put aside the two missed birthdays behind us and instead focus on the time that you were here before that. Focusing on the idea that celebrating somebodies life and birth need not require their presence.

    For your birthday I cannot get you gifts or take you for dinner, even though I have since discovered surely no less than five thousand new places I think you’d love to go.

    We can’t go away together on a trip, and you have no pockets to hold your passport.

    I can’t cook for you any longer, but I can spend my life scouring the tiny corners of the planet for the kinds of foods you would love to try.

    I can only bring you with me in memory for the railway journeys and street food excursions, the adventures in mistranslation and the most bizarre of travel stories I know that you, and only you, would appreciate. I can carry you with me in my thoughts, and more importantly through my words and in my stories, and for that experience I am grateful.

    I think you’d be happy this year. Happy for our annual birthday check-in – where we talk about our lives and our goals, where we’ve been and where we are going in this crazy life. I’d get to tell you all about the life I’m living, you’d listen with great interest as I told you about how I finally visited the Amazon. You’d immediately ask if I saw any Anacondas, and tell me some hilariously inappropriate story about lost adventurers being eaten alive, knowing full well it would do nothing but fuel my sense of adventure.

    We’d talk about my job, and how incredible it is that everything you taught me, all you encouraged me in from the moment I could use a keyboard had brought me to where I am. I’m living my dreams, I’d say. I have a great life and a wonderful job, I make good choices in my life and relationships and I know how to stand on my own two feet.

    You’d be so proud.

    What are you reading today? you’d ask.. scoping me out for new book recommendations as you made a large handful of your own. Exchanging books became a bit of a birthday tradition, didn’t it? I’ve read so many of your books since we last spoke. I’ve kept them all and as I make my way through page-by-page I take tiny pieces of you from every character I meet. I don’t keep things, I don’t own stuff, but I kept every single one of your books.

    If it were your birthday today, in person and for real, I would be looking forward to hearing about the latest addition to your miniature railroad. That land that exists as a magical other world spilling out from your spare bedroom. I’d await eagerly the latest news of the tiny locomotive making its way in a missing package from Germany, we’d joke about the world tour it was taking as we spied on the tracking number in anticipation of its arrival. Prodding you to let it expand and take over your house, tiny tracks making trails across all the walls and out into the world.

    But instead, you’re not here.

    And for your birthday I’m left with a million happy memories and a series of questions. Where will I next find your memory? I find you in the strangest of places – I find you in the comforting clack-clacking of late night rail journeys, and I meet you again in every geranium, I remember you in anteaters and in thistles, Thai food and mistranslated English signs. I find you in Bill Bryson, Paul Theroux, Paulo Coelho. I find you when I finally discover where the missing semicolon was hiding amongst ten thousand lines of code and I laugh, I laugh out of frustration and relief and because I remember how it would make you laugh just the same.

    I find you when I look at the person I’ve become, the jokes that I find funny and the ways I’ve grown to see the world. It’s in all these places that I find you that I get to celebrate your birthday. Happy birthday. Thank you for never quite leaving me, and for all the places you turn up.

    Two years ago today my father died. I hope today by focusing my thoughts away from grief and loss and instead into sharing gratitude and love with the world around me I can shine some happiness into an otherwise difficult day I’m grateful for … inheriting your sense of adventure and braveness for visiting places for their culture and people, not tourist sites for encouraging me always to pursue what I’m interested in passionate about and not letting me settle for less than that for being my source of unwavering rational advice and practical solutions, peacekeeper and careers advisor.. over and over and over again for having me, rent free in your home all the times I chose paths of volunteering, or when I was simply just lost in life for a brief moment fish and chip Fridays your amazing model trainsets your wonderful sense of humour for keeping your shelves always stocked with new books for me to devour for a childhood worth of weekend swimming pool & hydroslide adventures for introducing me to Thai food and my first ever green curry sparking a lifelong obsession for all the quiet nights in watching trivia gameshows on the tv with you for always telling me how proud you were, even when the choices I made probably terrified you for teaching me how to use a computer from when I was about as small as the picture here, and not much later on teaching me how to code .. skills that have led to where I am today for every time you got up at 5am to drive me to an ambulance shift when I was a grown adult and probably should’ve worked it out for myself for bailing me out of so many things, so many times For always sharing my writing and telling anyone who’d listen about me and my work for introducing me to the wider world through stories, books and conversations for the endless hours spent in logic puzzle books with you for taking a morning out of each and every day to go out for coffee with me before work in the weeks before your cancer properly took hold For telling me in those last few days to keep traveling, keep pursuing my dreams, keep focusing on this life I’ve built once you’re gone
  • Fifty books of 2021

    At the beginning of 2021, I set myself a goal to read 50 books. I almost slid just in there, although I didn’t quite finish book number 50 before the end of the 31st! So whether I completed the challenge or not is up to intepretation, but I think it’s close enough to count.

    It will come as no surprise when I say that 2021 was an unusual year. In pre-pandemic times I would read a lot of difficult books, memoirs non-fiction, and literary fiction. But I’ve noticed over the past two years, since the world got a little more complicated, most of my books have been beach reads, romance, and escapism. It’s been a nice shift, and I’ve enjoyed stepping outside of my usual genres and getting lost in some light and fluffy love stories.

    Highlights from 2021: Piranesi (favourite fiction), Molecules of Emotion (favourite non fiction), One Last Stop (favourite romance), and Eat Pray Love (favourite re-read)

    1. Molecules of Emotion by Candace B. Pert
    2. The Biology of Belief by Bruce H. Lipton
    3. The Spanish Love Deception by Elena Armas
    4. The Power of Now by Eckhart Tolle
    5. Until Next Weekend by Rachel Marks
    6. Saturdays at Noon by Rachel
    7. The Spark by Jules Wake
    8. The Road Trip by Beth O’Leary
    9. Sunrise by the Sea by Jenny Colgan
    10. Beach Read by Emily Henry
    11. While We Were Dating by Jasmine Guillory
    12. SEX/LIFE by B.B. Easton
    13. I Owe You One by Sophie Kinsella
    14. Dumplin’ by Julie Murphy
    15. Love Your Life by Sophie Kinsella
    16. The Regulars by Georgia Clark
    17. Fiber Fueled by Will Bulsiewicz
    18. The Bucket List by Georgia Clark
    19. It Had to Be You by Georgia Clark
    20. I’ve Got Your Number by Sophie Kinsella
    21. Can You Keep a Secret? by Sophie Kinsella
    22. Remember Me? by Sophie Kinsella
    23. Life’s A Beach by Portia MacIntosh
    24. The Undomestic Goddess by Sophie Kinsella
    25. One Last Stop by Casey McQuiston
    26. My Great Ex-Scape by Portia MacIntosh
    27. The Time of Our Lives by Portia MacIntosh
    28. My Not So Perfect Life by Sophie Kinsella
    29. Wedding Night by Sophie Kinsella
    30. Stuck On You by Portia MacIntosh
    31. Grown Ups by Marian Keyes
    32. Paris is Always a Good Idea by Jenn McKinlay
    33. Dreaming of Verona by T.A. Williams
    34. Recipe for Persuasion by Sonali Dev
    35. Piranesi by Susanna Clarke
    36. Sofia Khan is Not Obliged by Ayisha Malik
    37. The Dating Charade by Melissa Ferguson
    38. Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert
    39. Anybody Out There? by Marian Keyes
    40. The Mystery of Mercy Close by Marian Keyes
    41. How to Make a French Family by Samantha Verant
    42. Angels by Marian Keyes
    43. The Woman Who Stole My Life by Marian Keyes
    44. Watermelon by Marian Keyes
    45. Lucy Sullivan Is Getting Married by Marian Keyes
    46. Rachel’s Holiday by Marian Keyes
    47. Gone Viking by Helen Russell
    48. Happiness for Beginners by Katherine Center
    49. You and Me on Vacation
      by Emily Henry
    50. Save Me the Plums: My Gourmet Memoir by Ruth Reichl

  • How is it December already?

    Despite the year being utterly bizarre, it seems to be over about as quickly as it began! It’s hard to imagine a year ago I was in Martinique, planning for a North American Christmas visit then onto Tokyo for New Years!

    It’s not been the 2020 we wanted, but it’s the 2020 we’ve got – and although it’s been challenging, there’s been a lot of good too. This is what I’d like to focus on, all the good bits that managed to slip through the cracks of a chaotic and strange year.

    I’ve been so thankful to spend a year back home with my family, rediscovering my fabulous home country and living a much less transitory existence than I am normally used to. Buying a car, renting an apartment, having a small garden – none of these were on the forecast for this year, yet I am enjoying the change of pace that comes with these things.

    This blog has been on a bit of a hiatus – so much so, in fact, that I didn’t post a November update. That’s because life got real busy all of a sudden with university exams, relocating up to Auckland, and my first attempt at celebrating US thanksgiving!

    But things haven’t been entirely static, you may notice a new design on the site that I’ve been working away on migrating to, and a new photo blog section to contain more short-form and image based updates, as well as a brand new newsletter design & content! So stay tuned, as things around here are gearing up for more travel writing and updates as we plough on ahead into a new year!

  • Summer is coming + October Gratitude

    Not in a bad way, just in a back-at-work, finding a place to live, last week of semester at school kinda way and I haven’t been posting as frequently as I’d like to have been.

    The road trip was a wonderful adventure, beginning in Christchurch (the South Island of New Zealand) winding up through the Marlborough wine region, sleeping in a renovated wine barrel cabin, then onwards to sunny Picton where we admired the gorgeous Marlborough sounds and crossed to the North Island by the way of the InterIslander ferry.

    Rural New Zealand is beautiful, and possibly exactly how you’d expect. We explored rolling Hobbiton-esque hillside, took a boat ride through the magnificent Waitomo glow worm caves, drove past ‘Mount Doom’, admired the otherworldly bubbling mudpools and steaming geysers of Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland, and stayed in a luxurious treehouse chalet in the Coromandel coast.

    As we settle into a new apartment here in Auckland, and as my semester comes to a close for the year, I will soon have a lot more time to dedicate to personal projects, writing, and blogging.

    (more…)
  • September Gratitude & Springtime Curiosities

    Spring is beginning to show here in New Zealand, with blossoms blooming and daffodil sprouts coming up. I’m so grateful to see more blue skies and sunny afternoons. After spending a very unexpected winter back in my home country, I’m super appreciate of the promise of spring & summer to come.

    When I set out on my nomad journey, I had planned to chase the sun. Other than the occasional dip into wintery climates, for the most part, I’d succeeded for six years! So all this cold and darkness came as a bit of a shock to the system.

    But it’s not all bad, of course! I am very lucky to be where I am during the current state of the world, and I am enjoying feeling the anticipation of spring coming on all around and focusing on gratitude for this month.

    (more…)
  • Notes from my (former) flight attendant life

    Anna the flight attendant? Yeah, right! Aviation was not an industry I had ever imagined myself involved in. Unlike many who spend their whole lives dreaming of working in the skies, I had always had other plans for my life. So many, in fact, that I almost had a new career plan for each day of the year.

    Doctor, Skydive Instructor and Radio DJ topped the wish-list at various points in my life. Chef, med school dropout, volunteer ambulance officer and graphic designer had made it onto the ‘been there, done that’ pile. Flight attendant was one of the few job titles that had never really caught my eye. So you can imagine it came as quite the surprise to find myself vacuum backed into that tight red dress, slathered in a cocktail of lipstick and hairspray, learning the ropes of emergency evacuations over water.

    Truth be told, I was a little lost. I had wanted out of the city I had spent most of my life living in, and I felt a passion for travel. Other than that I had absolutely no clue, or any savings to leave with. That was, of course, until I saw the job listing. Within 6 months of applying, I had my wings and was a fully-fledged short-haul international flight attendant.

    Suddenly the world opened up to me, I was living in a bigger city and spending my life traveling. A normal Saturday night for me might be spent going out for dinner in Sydney followed by a lazy Sunday afternoon poolside in Fiji.

    My flight attendant career spanned about four years – which is quite a long time in my world of relentless retraining and career hopping. By the time I handed in my wings I was ready to move onto other adventures, but I picked up a few & memories notes along the way


    1. Don’t eat the crew meals. Number one rule! It’s hard enough to eat properly when your always on the road, but crew meals are designed to have added salt and sugar. (Check out this article from the BBC on why food tastes bad at altitude, and how catering companies add extra salt and flavouring to make up for it) 

    2. Diet coke is the most time consuming, foamy, mess of a drink to pour into a cup at altitude thanks to the artificial sweeteners, and to top it all off – it tastes a little odd up there too thanks to our altered ability to taste.

    3.Carry dry bags. Having to stash your wet swimsuit in your suitcase on the second day of a five day trip does not to nice things to your clean clothes. Or, for that matter, the overall atmosphere of your suitcase. Same deal with anything that gets muddy, wet, damp, or smelly. Drybags are a lifesaver for frequent travellers, and although it’s been many years since I was working onboard an aircraft, it’s still an essential item I pack on every trip.

    4. Sleep is completely underrated. When I first set out into the flight attendant life, the lure & sometimes pressure of meeting up at the bar was a bit too much. I went too hard and lost out on a lot of sleep. I’m older, and hopefully wiser now and I say – catch up on sleep whenever you can – no matter how tempting all the outings, dinners, and drinks will be. Everyone will be meeting down at the bar again tomorrow night for another round, I promise!

    Lounging poolside in Koh Samui
    Fancy lounging poolside as part of your work week? Look no further.

    5. Invest in the most comfortable shoes you can find. Although high heels are often required when walking about the airport, usually after takeoff the cabin crew get to switch into flat cabin shoes. I would recommend upgrading both as much as the company will allow – when the shin splints and numb toes catch up, often a lot of the damage is done and it can take a long time to recover.

    6. Keep hydrated. The cabin is a really low humidity place to spend a lot of time, so chugging down the waters is always a priority. When I was training, they recommended 500mls per hour, but personally I think more than that is better. Normally I aim for 2 litres of water a day, but I’d increase that even further on flying days!

    7. There will always be passengers who are unhappy about something. No matter how glamorous aviation may sound to those not working in it, it is still a customer service role. You will always get difficult customers, and you can’t please everyone. Don’t let it get to you.

    8. Even when it feels like everything is going wrong, there will always be one person (passenger or crew) who thinks your doing just great – make it your mission to find that person & connect with them to boost your confidence.

    9. Keep the essentials in your cabin bag (underwear, phone charger, wallet), it’s only a matter of time until somebody looses your check-in for the night and it’s nice to be prepared for anything! I also liked to keep a dress in there that rolls small, wrinkle free as an emergency backup change of clothes.

    10. Smile. Always. Not because you have to (although mileage may vary depending on who you work for) – do it because it’ll make you feel better, I promise. (read this article on smiling)

    11. Keep a gratitude diary. Sometimes it’s easy to forget how amazing this job actually is! (also, daily gratitude = amazing thing to get in the habit of) and later on, you will be able to look back even more fondly on this time spent in a great job.

    12. Take the time to learn a new language. You don’t need to be fluent, just being able to communicate a few words is enough to turn an awkward flight of non-english speakers into something fun & that you learn from. (They really appreciate the effort, too)

    13. Keep earplugs and eye masks with you, they always come in handy for those times when you want to catch a few moments rest wherever you are.

    14. Learn more about posture. I’ve strained myself from incorrect lifting and sitting twisted in the back galley with my legs crossed far too many times. Practicing good posture, doing yoga, wearing well fitting shoes – these things all help enormously.

    15. Pack snacks. Things like nuts, seeds, crackers and tinned tuna seem to make it through most country arrival quarantines un-confiscated. Be wary of fresh produce, meats, dairy and honey if you are travelling somewhere with strict biosecurity such as Australia and New Zealand though.

    16. Don’t give buddy passes to people unless it’s an emergency or they understand standby very well. It can get very stressful!

    17. Speaking of staff travel, try not to book yourself on a busy flight home the night before your next duty with no backup plan. It generally ends in an expensive disaster.

    18. One (more) word: Sunscreen.

    19. Passengers will never, ever learn to remain seated until the seatbelt light comes off. It’s an unfortunate, universal truth.

    20. Toiletries with screw on lids are a great investment (there’s only so many times a person can forgive an exploded shampoo bottle amongst their things)

    21. Keep hydration interesting and carry a selection of herbal tea bags with you. Fruit flavoured ones added to a bottle of cold water make a delicious alternative to plain water.

    22.  Protein powder/meal replacement sachets can be a great breakfast, especially at 3am when you know you SHOULD eat, but your stomach has different feelings on the matter.

    23. Don’t become bitter, and never forget to see passengers as people – no matter how obnoxious they become.

    Working as a flight attendant was a truly awesome career, I’m so thankful for all the experiences I was lucky enough to have during this time.

    I met some excellent people and have collected memories I will treasure for a lifetime.

    It’s me, many years back now!

    Ultimately, it wasn’t my forever job. None of them have been so far – but I sure had a great time doing it & it opened up the world of travel and possibilities to me in a way I am eternally grateful.

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  • Beijing Tales | Memories passed from my father.

    Beijing existed in my mind as an abstract painting, fragments taken from my late father’s many tales of arriving in this mysterious land. Visions of tranquil ancient penzai gardens danced with the buzz of a post-modern metropolis. The city was all these things at once and still somehow more; a breathing, gyrating, living contrast to itself.

    The tales from my father I had collected over time, gorging myself on them over and over until China had become a world almost entirely constructed in my imagination. When he died, I grasped those memories even tighter, desperate to seek out these corners of the world that he treasured so.

    Home to some of China’s most famous landmarks: the forbidden city, the Great Wall and endless blossom gardens, temples and tea houses. A gentle gateway into the cultures of the far East. Yet Beijing was, as I found all of China, nothing as I had expected.

    My entrance was uneventful, I braced for public transport chaos, yet the trip through the metro system and into the hive of Beijing was remarkably simple. The city itself was not the throbbing hum of relentless crowds and mind-boggling skyscrapers, and many of the inner city suburbs provided a tranquil space to stroll, uninterrupted, along the magnificent walls, structures and ancient housing of the gentle tree lined streets.

    I stayed for a week, living close to all the things one might want. To my great pleasure we discovered a superb restaurant serving up cold noodles from the Shanxi region of Northern China. Chilled noodles tossed in sesame oil with spiralised cucumber, peanuts and chilli. A dish that would linger favourably in my memory for many months to come.

    Quite the opposite of the cold jellied pig foot that has become the epitome of things I dislike of the Chinese cuisine, an anecdote not dissimilar to the stories my father would share with us as children, of bizarre foods lost in translation from his business trips into China – a fond memory full of love and belly laughs.

    Cherry Blossoms in Beijing Great Wall of China

    I explored the ornate, leafy slopes of the imperial Jingshan Park, with its twenty three manicured hectares of peach blossoms and gardens of budding peonies. A tranquil getaway overlooking the chaotic beating heart of the forbidden city below. I took a stroll through the infamous Tiananmen square, whisked away into a feeling of communist times past – a jaw dropping expanse of grey. Stony faced military guarded and the Chinese flag was high and we were overlooked by the most well known of Chinese leaders, including the notorious Chairman Mao.

    Despite many claims that the Donghuamen Night Market was no longer in operation, I still stumbled upon it, completely by accident and in full, roaring trade.

    Wriggling scorpions and starfish lay immortalised on skewers, impaled and displayed and perhaps eventually eaten. Or more likely disposed of, as despite throngs of selfie-wielding tourists flocking to capture the bizarre delicacies, there were very few actually eating them.

    I speculated on the validity of these delicacies, and questioned whether perhaps this has all come about for the shock-factor of tourists, as I had not seen the more local parts of China feasting on such things.

    Much like Cambodia, the country has come about times of extreme poverty & famine. In these challenging time the people were driven to eat whatever protein sources they could find, insects proved a life-sustaining meal. Necessity, not delicacy.

    Beijing is famous for having a world class aquarium, an impressive building housed on the fringes of the sprawling Beijing Zoo. For two large attractions that are one-in-the-same land, they do not bear a striking resemblance. The Zoo was on a beautiful and large piece of land with blossoming trees and a massive variety of exotic animals. However, the care of the animals ranged from the desolate and heartbreaking through to the well cared for and clean. I’ve never had such mixed feelings on such a place. Charging merely a few coins to get in, I ponder why they wouldn’t raise admission and put more time and money into the upkeep.

    The Aquarium, however, costs many many times more and it shows. Gorgeous, clean and modern with incredibly exhibits and well cared for fish. An unusual contrast, providing a reflection of China as a whole.

    The visit was capped off with samplings of Peking Duck, the most magical set under a sea of ferry lights on a warm spring night, seated next to the glass windows peering through to the preparation room.

    My fifteen year old self at the time was incapable of imagining the delight of this dish, the importance of when and how it is served, nor the imagination to comprehend how a pancake may be involved in all of this. Yet my father persisted – planting ideas and memories I would come to treasure for many years to come.

  • Thanksgiving – What I am thankful for in 2019

    Today is thanksgiving in America.

    This is not a holiday I have ever celebrated, however being so close to the United States this year, and having so many more friends, colleagues, and a partner who are American brings thanksgiving closer to my heart & awareness.

    Tomorrow morning I leave, bound for Montreal on the Eastern side of Canada. So while many people I care about are spending time with their families and eating pumpkin pie, today for me is spent working, packing, and getting organized for a 4am taxi to the airport.

    But, not celebrating thanksgiving doesn’t make me any less thankful.

    (more…)

  • Tracks to Taiping

    From where I’m sitting, the notices are what one might expect – due dates for utilities, ripped notices about waste collection casually pinned to the wall, the sort of things typical of a waiting room in an apartment complex. I’m perched upon a plastic chair, the kind that are perpetually made with uneven legs as if on purpose while my boyfriend sweats it out a few buildings away where I left him – outside a stranger’s door with all of our bags, unaware that he is in the completely wrong building.

    There’s definitely been a mix-up, and the managers are trying to decide whether we should be allowed to stay. You see, we moved out into the suburbs for a week. The deal was almost too good to be true, a well priced room with air conditioning in a gorgeous complex complete with an oasis of a pool. What we didn’t know was that the owners were illegally subletting their rooms out, and it was against all the terms of residing in the complex. In the end, we stayed. The circumstances were all a little bizarre. However, the pool was heaven and the neighbourhood was a haven of local eateries so we decided to stick around.

    My brother arrived on our final full day in Kuala Lumpur to join us before beginning our whirlwind railway tour up the country, stopping first in Taiping followed by Penang. After a bit of hunting and misunderstandings around which of the many Starbucks we are to meet him in, he is with us. A visitor finding himself for the first time in a new land – the best kind. Introducing the people you love, to the places you love, is one of my greatest pleasures as a traveler, and getting to show him around somewhere that was also a mutual love of our father made it all the more special.

    Breakfast in Malaysia is an understated affair composed of crispy-yet-fluffy, buttery roti bread served with a spicy dal for dipping and teh tarik. Considered the country’s national drink and translating to ‘pulled tea’, teh tarik is, for me at least, one of the wonders of Malaysia. Made up of an enticing blend of condensed milk and the unique flavour of Malay black tea, the concoction is heated over a flame and ‘pulled’ between two jugs until it creates a fluffy, frothy, foam of deliciousness.

    After a satisfying breakfast we set off to wander the streets of the central city one last time. Admiring the ornate South Indian temples of Brickfields (KL’s Little India) to the gnarled jungle-esque trees that line some of the streets, I found it easy enough to slip once again into tourist mode and marvel at the city with a hundred different faces.

    As the sky darkens into a storm we zip quickly away along the elevated monorail line destined for Setiawangsa, our suburban paradise and home for the night. A trip to Malaysia is not complete until you have gorged yourself into a stupor on nasi kandar, and that is exactly how we spent this evening. Nasi kandar originates up in Penang, an island city in Northern Malaysia where we will be heading in just a few days. It is a manner of buffet where you are handed a mountain of rice, and choose what to eat on top. The buffet trays are filled with a range of curries, dals, flavorsome veges and all manner of grilled and fried meats, fish and seafood. A buffet lover’s heaven with a distinctly Malay twist.

    The following morning we are up and away – a simple breakfast is in order followed by a scenic railway journey up to Taiping, a historic Northern Malay city in the state of Perak. Having caught trains across many different countries in the world, I am nevertheless stunned at the quality of Malaysian trains. The quality of the seats and carriages rivals those in the nicest parts of Western Europe, yet the price more mirrors those of Bulgaria, or perhaps India. Malaysian railways are no new thing, in fact they’ve been around since the good ol’ days of 1885 when the very first simple line was constructed to haul tin to the Ports, beginning in the tin-rich town of Taiping – exactly where we were headed.

    Train trips across the countryside are, anywhere in the world, one of my favourite means of transport. There is something innately relaxing and somewhat old-fashioned about the experience of enjoying a good book and watching the scenery morph before your eyes. Up the West coast of Peninsular Malaysia we traveled, through the state of Selangor and up into Perak passing through vast fields of palm oil plantations, wetlands of water buffalo and tiny regional villages.

    It was a typically hot, yet unusually dry afternoon for Taiping, known as the wettest place in the country, and we set out on foot, heavy packs on our backs for an arduous and sweaty walk down the main road. It was a Sunday afternoon and during peak siesta hours so everywhere was closed. Eventually we came upon our accommodation – a beautifully decorated colonial building that had been turned into a guesthouse by our exceedingly friendly Australian host. We had but 24 hours to spend here, so our efforts were concentrated and we made our way directly toward the Taiping Lake Gardens, a 64 hectare landscape made up of ten scenic lakes, decorated with grasses and flowers. The large trees vibrated with the motion of restless monkeys and a large water monitor lazed on the river banks akin to a sated crocodile.

    In the early evening the rains started, and in true Malay style the heavy waters were hammering down within minutes, leaving us marooned & drenched in an unfamiliar food court full of curious local onlookers. The walkways were slippery and attempting to get back without sliding over or slipping into a nearby drain was a challenge all in itself. But finally, just as I thought it could rain like this for all the night, it stopped just as suddenly as it had arrived.

    Dinner was a remarkable hybrid of western, Malay and Chinese food cooked by a young Taiwanese street food vendor. He had come highly recommended by our hotel manager and his dumplings rival any that I would go on to taste in China. For just a few dollars we ate a large meal of dumplings, hot tea and pork burgers made with Chinese Bao bread buns. Finding his stall had initially proved a challenge, with our only clues being that he ran a cart in one of the many open air food courts, and that he would be a young Taiwanese guy wearing an orange t shirt. As it turns out, he picked today to expand on his wardrobe options. However, we found him eventually and took our place at one of the many plastic table sets.

    Open air food courts are the most commonly found eateries in most of the country, and also some of the most rewarding. Small stands stake their place around the edges of a large room, usually with 2-3 open sides and tables spilling out onto the nearby footpath. The venue itself is responsible for providing drinks, and it is through their drink attendants that you order all beverages. Once that’s out of the way, it’s up to you to choose which street food vendors you prefer. Simply head over to the vendor of your choice, tell them what you want and where you are sitting. When your food is ready, they’ll usually bring it over and take your payment. Simple, and perfect for taste testing from a variety of different vendors too. It’s an institution in Malaysia and I prefer it immensely over being holed away in a restaurant all of the time.

    It had been a long day of traveling and an early start back in Kuala Lumpur, so we all opted for long showers and an early night in bed. Tomorrow would be a new day and another train ride – this time heading up from Taiping to the historic Colonial town, tropical island and my former home base of George Town, Penang.