Tag: Photography

Every journey deserves to be remembered, and photography has become my way of capturing not just what places look like, but how they feel. From the golden light over Mongolian gers to the vibrant colors of Caribbean markets, these posts pair stories with the images that help me remember why travel moves me so deeply.

  • Exploring the Most Charming Small Towns in New Zealand’s South Island

    I was born and raised on the South Island of New Zealand, but it took me until my adult life of traveling the world to come to appreciate how beautiful and unique this island really is. But the more I travelled, the more I heard from people along my way how much they dreamed of visiting New Zealand. My curiousity was always piqued – where would you like to go? The answers were always similar; Queenstown usually came up, or perhaps they’d heard of Auckland, or wanted to visit the Hobbiton set.

    But what about the small towns? I thought.

    Well, it turns out that most people haven’t heard of the charming small towns smattered throughout the South Island, and in the spirit of #backyourbackyard I reached out to some fellow travellers & travel bloggers to ask them what was their favourite small town to visit in New Zealand. Combined with some of my own personal favourites, here’s some of the South Island’s most gorgeous little towns.

    1. | Lyttelton Canterbury

    A personal recommendation of mine

    Lyttelton is a tiny portside town on the outskirts of Christchurch, which thanks to the handy Lyttelton tunnel is only a 10 minute drive into the bigger city, yet feels a million miles away. The town is magical and life revolves arounds a steady buzz of the ports, a main street full of charming stores and a bustling weekly farmers market.

    This town is special to me for a number of reasons, and it remains so undiscovered by most tourists. This is where my grandmother lived whilst I was growing up, and then many years later when we ended up back in New Zealand by surprise (thanks 2020 pandemic!) this is where we took a six month rental, and enjoyed the small town little life over the autumn and winter.

    It’s worth a visit if you like seaside life, lovely little streets lined with wooden villas & english country style gardens, a strong sense of community atmosphere and some trendy bar, restaurants and cafes. The Sunday farmers market is a highlight of the week too – it would make a great day trip from Christchurch.

    2. | Arrowtown Otago

    Recommended by Sinead, at Map Made Memories

     Arrowtown is a leafy town nestled between hills on the banks of the Arrowtown River, 13 miles from its famous neighbour Queenstown. If Queenstown is too busy or expensive for you, then quieter, cheaper Arrowtown is a great base for exploring this region. Originally a farming area, Arrowtown transformed into a mining town after gold was discovered here in the 1860’s.

    Today, Arrowtown’s historic main street retains a 19th century feel with wooden shop fronts and vintage telephone boxes. Charmingly quaint miners’ cottages are dotted around the town, many of which are available for holiday lets. Don’t miss the small but excellent Lakes District Museum in the town centre. This award-winning museum is packed with mining memorabilia and charts the history of the area. For a few dollars, museum visitors can hire gold panning equipment and head to the tree lined banks of the Arrowtown River (which featured in The Lord of the Rings movies) to pan for gold.

    We initially decided to stay in Arrowtown in order to visit Queenstown but ended up spending most of our week exploring the friendly laidback town and enjoying peaceful hikes in the beautiful locality.

    3. | Akaroa Banks Penninsula

    Recommended by Delphine at LesterLost

    On the South Island of New Zealand, the Banks Peninsula is a great day trip from Christchurch. Akaroa is the main township on this volcanic outpost and a charming little town. The Banks Peninsula is only an hour away from Christchurch and a paradise of rolling hills and scenic roads… Few people know this, but Akaroa has a strong connection to France, which may sound strange since New Zealand was colonised by the British… But indeed, the township of Akaroa was first settled by French whalers in 1840.

    The British convinced the French to leave after only ten years by buying them out… And yet, over 150 years later, the French influence is still visible. The cemetery, some street names and overtly French cafes and restaurants maintain the flame of a distant and short-lived settlement… I discovered Akaroa by accident on my honeymoon to New Zealand and I keep going back, not just because of its French history, but the scenic summit road, colourful houses and unique volcanic harbour make the Banks Peninsula one of my favourite destinations in New Zealand. If you are keen on wildlife experiences, Akaroa also has a number of eco tours and cruises where you can observe seals and dolphins.

    3. | Glenorchy Otago

    Recommended by Margarita Steinhardt at The Wildlife Diaries 

    Glenorchy is a beautiful little settlement surrounded by the towering snow-capped mountains, glacial lakes and ancient beech forests, 46 kilometres north of Queenstown on New Zealand’s South Island. The drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy along the shore of Lake Wakatipu is one of the most scenic drives in New Zealand, which is very high praise considering that virtually every road in New Zealand is a scenic drive.

    The town of Glenorchy is very laid-back. There are a couple of pubs, a cafe, a general store and the iconic red boatshed on the lakeshore. One of the best things to do in town is to explore Glenorchy Walkway that meanders through the wetlands of Glenorchy Lagoon. On a clear day, you can see the reflection of Mt Earnshaw reflected in the still waters of the lagoon.

    And if you are looking for adventure, you can explore the Tolkienesque landscape around Glenorchy on horseback or on foot, in a 4×4 or in a jetboat, from a helicopter or from a mountain bike. And don’t be surprised if the landscape looks oddly familiar, the area around Glenorchy served as a filming location for Isengard, Lothlorien and Amon Hen in the Lord of the Rings movies. 

    4. | Kaikoura Canterbury

    Recommended by Mikaela of Voyageur Tripper

    Kaikoura is often overlooked by tourists to New Zealand, but it’s such a charming little seaside town that really shouldn’t be missed. I grew quite fond of this town after I spent a few months on the South Island between the delicious food joints, affordable places to stay, and outdoor activities.

    Honestly, I had one of the best experiences of my life here when I got to swim with wild dolphins! I would go back just to see the dolphins again. You’re given a wet suit and a snorkel then you hop on a boat in search for the gorgeous animals.

    Once you find them you hop in the water and they swim right up to you. They are super playful animals and will even “talk” to you if you start making noises at them!

    The most popular activity in Kaikoura is whale watching though. You can do this either by boat or helicopter and with both you only have a 5% chance of not seeing a whale. The boat option is cheaper than the helicopter but on the helicopter, you also see beautiful views of the peninsula.There are so many fun things to do in Kaikoura and great opportunities to view wildlife. I’ll be planning a return trip as soon as I can!

    5. | Twizel Mackenzie District

    Recommended by Chris of Aquarius Traveller

    At some point, when you’re driving around the South Island of New Zealand or looking at visiting Mount Cook, you will pass by the small town of Twizel. With a population of 1500, it’s the largest town in the Mackenzie region, on the other hand, numbers can triple during the tourist season. This is your number one gateway town for Mount Cook National Park and some of the best Mountain views on the South Island.

    There is nothing like waking up every morning to a backdrop of the Southern Alps, or wandering through the friendly town at several cafes and eateries. Have some fun fishing for salmon or trout from the canals that run through the town, or take the easy way out and visit the local Salmon farm for the local delicacies.  It’s all of this and Mount Cook, that keeps me coming back time and time again. 

    A range of accommodation options are available from Hotels, Motels, Cottages, Bed and Breakfasts, and Airbnb’s. Whatever your situation, there is going to be something to suit your style and budget.

    Mount Cook National Park is less than an hour away, and there is are so many ways to experience this part of the South Island. Seeking adventure on one of the many hiking trails like Hooker Valley Track or Tasman Lake. Fly like a bird above the snow-topped mountains, or kayaking on one of the many rivers.  

    Twizel is known for its low light pollution and dark skies, which means it’s the best place to stargaze and see the wondrous Milky Way. Don’t forget to check this out on your visit!

    5. | Te Anau Southland

    Recommended by Nicholas of Rambling Feet

    My main reason for visiting Te Anau was to enjoy a shorter drive to Milford Sound. However, I found plenty to make it worth staying a couple of nights or more. Being on the shores of Lake Te Anau, it comes with some stunning waterside views of the mountains. It’s a town that is incredibly close to nature such that it’s the gateway to Fiordland. From the surrounding area, trampers start three of the Great Walks of New Zealand: the Kepler, Milford and Routeburn tracks. Head 30 minutes south to Manapouri and you’ll be at the start of the cruise to the quieter but more dramatic Doubtful Sound. There are even scenic flights if you prefer to see the Eighth Wonder of the World from above. 

    You’d expect a lot of traffic, given how much there is to do. However, most of it is transient, so the town still feels unhurried during even the day. You can take a cruise or kayak around the lake, and there are tours that take groups into the caves to see thousands of glow worms light up the darkness. If you’re even less adventurous, there’s still a leisurely stroll along the lakeshore to the Te Anau Bird Sanctuary, where you can see native feathered critters, some of which are endangered. You can even get close to the takahe, a flightless bird that was thought extinct only 100 years ago, during their feeding times.

    6. | Oamaru South Canterbury

    Recommended by Lotte from Phenomenal Globe Travel Blog

    Just short of 14.000 residents, Oamaru is one of the ‘larger’ villages on the South Island, though it’s still far from a big city. Despite its modest size, Oamaru has plenty to offer for visitors and should be included on any New Zealand road trip itinerary.

    Oamaru likes to call itself Steampunk HQ. Steampunk is a quirky genre of science fiction that features steam-powered technology from the 19th century. When strolling through the city center you’ll undoubtedly come across many funky steampunk machines and art, resembling anything from human faces to a weird (and slightly scary looking) locomotive. There are even a Steampunk Museum (open 7 days a week from 10.00 am – 4.00pm) and a Steampunk Playground, so plenty to keep the kids occupied for a couple of hours.

    There is more to Oamaru than steampunk though, one of the other highlights is the large blue penguin colony that calls Oamaru home. Well, not the streets of Oamaru obviously, but you can spot these cute little guys waddling around the beach from a special day viewing area. Keep in mind the Blue Penguin Colony is a protected habitat and be sure to follow the guidelines as not to disturb these wonderful creatures.

    Back in the center of Oamaru you’ll notice plenty of charming old buildings in the Victorian Precinct, most of these warehouses have been converted into galleries and boutique stores. Don’t forget to check out the pretty railway station and the imposing Bank of New South Wales building.

    7. | Franz Josef West Coast

    Recommended by Jon from See the South Island

    Franz Josef is a tiny glacier town on the West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island. The main draw is obviously the glacier, which you can see on a large number of hikes or from a helicopter, but the town itself is about as quaint and picturesque as you’ll find in New Zealand. The town, home to around 500 people, is surrounded by lush green hills and snow-capped mountains, and you’ll see some amazing views by just walking the quiet streets. There are plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating areas, and there are even some hot pools – perfect after a long day of hiking.

    To see the best views of Franz Josef Glacier I’d recommend doing the Alex Knob Track. It takes 6-8 hours and takes you high above the glacier-carved valley. If you’re keen for something a little easier you can see the glacier from one of several short tracks, including Sentinel Rock and Peters Pool. Weather is key to these tracks – you’ll be blown away if you see this area on a nice day, but you won’t see much if it’s cloudy!

    8. | Wanaka Otago

    Recommended by Karen of Big Adventures for Little Feet

    When visiting the South Island of New Zealand the majority of tourists flock to Queenstown however we found nearby Wanaka to be the stunning, relaxed mountain escape that we were seeking. Nestled next to picturesque Lake Wanakaand only an hour from Queenstown airport this resort destination is the perfect place to visit for a short or longer stay. 

    Known for its adventure sports, Wanaka is brimming with outdoor activities both in winter and summer. Snowsports dominate the winter scene but if summer adventures are more your thing this is the place to be for breathtaking hikes, water sports and a plethora of other activities. 

    We loved strolling the foreshore of Lake Wanaka, relaxing in the small village shops and cafes and simply taking in the views of the surrounding mountains from the hot tub at our accommodation. I highly recommend a couple of days exploring Mount Aspiring National Park which can be done by utilising Wanaka as your base. The Mount Aspiring National Park is such a pristine and untouched National Park allowing you to drive through the mountain range before opening up on the expansive Haast Pass. Make sure you stop for all the short hikes and waterfalls along the way with some favourites being the Blue Pools walk and the Fantail Falls. 

    9. | Cromwell Southland

    Recommended by Bailey from My Queenstown Diary

    The Otago region in New Zealand is a busy place to visit. Tourists fill the roads traveling between the small but very touristic towns of Queenstown, Glenorchy, and Wanaka. However, one town often forgotten is Cromwell. This quaint town sits on the shores of Lake Dunstan and is surrounded by vineyards, cherry trees, and even mountains. It’s a beautiful place to visit where visitors can enjoy a quieter time surrounded by beauty.

    There are a ton of awesome things to do in Cromwell but few are as iconic as taking a trip to some of the local wineries. What’s unique about wine touring through Cromwell is you can actually do it on foot. Via the 4 Barrels Wine Trail, which leads you through some of the best and brightest wineries in Cromwell, you can explore without the worry of driving.

    Another activity that’s a favorite of mine is to simply have a BBQ on the shores of Lake Dunstan. Around the lake, you’ll find BBQ’s dotted around the shoreline. Go into town and grab some food before heading town for one relaxing afternoon and maybe even a swim!  

    Despite Cromwell remaining off the beaten path, it’s one of the cutest towns in New Zealand that everyone should add to their bucket list! 

    10. | Punakaiki West Coast

    Recommended by Daniel from Destinationless Travel 

    If you take a drive up the stunning West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island you’ll pass by many beautiful towns along the way. One that stands out and a place I love to visit is the quaint town of Punakaiki. Made up of only a few streets, this small town packs quite the punch when it comes to breathtaking landscapes. The entire town is surrounded by lush forest and the coastline on which it sits is not only rugged, but filled with wildlife.

    Of the many amazing things to do in Punakaiki, visiting the famous Pancake Rocks is one of the best. On a huge boardwalk, you’ll explore the rock formation that got its name because it actually looks like stacked pancakes. It’s the reason most stop here, but unfortunately for them, they never seem to stay. For those that do though, you can enjoy much more including hiking the Truman track and kayaking down the Pororari River. One of New Zealand’s 10 Great Walks starts nearby too, the Paparo Track!

    In a town so small there isn’t much else to do other than explore the area, but that’s what makes it such a bucket-list town to visit! If you are hungry though, and after a fun night out, head to the Punakaiki Tavern for a look inside a classic New Zealand country pub. 

  • A day in Leticia | The Colombian Amazon

    In hindsight you could say I’d become mildly obsessed, I suppose. I had my eyes set firmly on one of the most undiscovered, inhospitable corners of the earth and I couldn’t help but dream of someday getting to the Amazon. As it turns out, it’s much more straight forward to plan a weekend getaway in the Colombian Amazon than one might think.

    It was my thirty second birthday and we’d come to Leticia. Before our plane even landed, I was enamoured. A city that lines the corners where Colombia meets Brazil and Peru, one built on stilts around the magnificent Amazonas and celebrates diversity, multiculturalism, and traditional jungle life.

    A lively hub of multiculturalism meets jungle and South American life. A laid back and easy going life on the river where the markets are flush full of pineapple and brightly coloured canoes park up at the riverbanks to trade in riverfish.

    Initially the first two nights were spent up in a treehouse, admiring new-growth jungle from our teetering traditional Maloka, then we moved into Leticia for the rest of the week.

    “The rain forest was not a garden of easy abundance, but precisely the opposite. Its quiet, shaded halls of leafy opulence were not a sanctuary, but rather the greatest natural battlefield anywhere on the planet, hosting an unremitting and remorseless fight for survival that occupied every single one of its inhabitants, every minute of every day.”

    ? David Grann, The Lost City of Z: A Tale of Deadly Obsession in the Amazon

    When to Visit Leticia

    Leticia has two seasons – the high water season (or the flooding season) and the low water season. The High Water season starts on February and lasts through late June. This is when I visited (In May) During this season, the Amazon river and its tributaries rise more than 20 meters, flooding all of the Varzeas areas. This was an incredible opportunity to navigate through the jungle in areas that aren’t normally doused in water, and visit different lakes via canoe.

    Stilt houses on the riverside in Leticia
    Stilt houses on the riverside in Leticia

    What to do in and around Leticia

    Leticia is tiny, but boy is it mighty – it packs so much vibrancy and energy into a small space, and holds so much culture and diversity within it. Many people who recommend a visit to Leticia only suggest a day (at most) to explore this town, with the rest spent on tours out into the wider Amazon. But I disagree – give at least a full day to this magical town, but probably more. It may just surprise you.

    • Get yourself to the otherworldly bird show at Parque Santander, from 5.30pm each night many thousands of parrots come home to roost in the park, it’s more incredible that you can imagine (or than I can explain here)
    • Pay a visit to the Museo Etnográfico. A small, free museum which is packed full of fascinating cultural and historical information and artifacts from Leticia and the surrounding Amazon region
    • Wander on over to Brazil and visit Tabatinga, a town that’s connected to Leticia by road (and footpath) but is part of Brazil.
    • Take a quick boat to the middle of the river and visit the Peruvian island of Santa Rosa de Yavarí to eat some ceviche
    • Walk the riverside boardwalk, especially lovely around sunset! And see boats trading goods, and people hanging out by the water enjoying the evening.
    • Visit the market for fresh fish, fruits and other produce
    • Get out on a boat trip to Lago Tarapoto, where you can spot magestic botos – endangered Amazonian river dolphins.
    • Take a trip out to Isla de los Micos (Monkey Island) a natural reserve on an island that’s home to over 5,000 friendly (but wild, not contained) squirrel monkeys
    • Visit the magnificent Victoria Amazonica (giant waterlilies) of the Amazon at the Victoria Amazonica natural reserve, a quick 15 minutes boat trip from Leticia
    Giant waterlilies at the Victoria Amazonica natural reserve
    Giant waterlilies at the Victoria Amazonica natural reserve

    What do you eat in the Amazon rainforest?

    1. Fish from the river no surprises here – river fish is one of the most abundant food sources around, and you can get yourself a delicious grilled fish at just about any restaurant in town. You can try pirarucu (one of the largest freshwater fish on earth) and even piranha (which are delicious, it turns out)
    2. Plantains fried up and served with everything plantains are the ubiquitous starch of Central and South America. Leticia is no different, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t indulge. Also make sure to try fish cooked in a parcel of plantain leaves – so delicious!
    3. Yuca (manioc/cassava) another starchy vegetable that holds high regard in the region is the yuca. There are so many different varieties, and ways to use or eat it. It can be roasted and mashed, used as a thickener, even fermented into a spicy paste. The yuca is also used for ceremonial purposes, and different varieties are grown by various indigenous groups widely throughout the Amazon.
    4. Limonada de coco is a Colombian staple, and you’ll find it all around the country. But it feels especially refreshing here amidst the sticky heat of the jungle and is perfect after a long day of hiking and canoeing.

    Where did I stay in Leticia?

    Whether you’re looking for an authentic jungle camp, or something a little more familiar, there are a number of choices for stays in Leticia. Hotel Anaconda is a famous tourists choice for a little more luxury, but I opted to stay first in treehouses, then in a reasonably priced guesthouse/hostel with fan cooled rooms and a pool.

    • Reserva Natural Tanimboca:  This is a nature reserve built on new-growth jungle. I stayed two nights in their traditional Amazonian treehouses and took advantage of the night jungle tours, included meals, and zip-lining/river canoeing package.
    • Hostel Casa de las Palmas was my stay in the Leticia township. They were fun, friendly, even spoke great English (unexpected! but helpful to know) and provided well priced rooms, with a fan and a shared kitchen/bathroom/pool in great walking distance from downtown Leticia. Also organise some excellent tours there that I really enjoyed.

    Languages Spoken in Leticia

    The primary language of Leticia is Spanish. However, many indigenous people bring their own languages with them which are spoken here, so you can often hear the languages of Tucano, Nukak, Witoto , Inga, and Ticuna people spoken.

    Due to the proximity to the Brazilian border, Portuguese is also quite widely used; and due to the tourism sector you will find some people around who speak English. But it’s far less common than other more heavily touristed parts of South America.

    Sunset on Lagos Yahuarcaca, Leticia, Colombia in the Colombian Amazon.
    Sunset on Lagos Yahuarcaca

    How to get to Leticia

    There are very few ways to arrive here. By plane from Bogota is the most common, but because Leticia is not connected to anywhere via road it’s not possible to bus, drive, or train. The airport is serviced by two airlines, both fly only to Bogota. The only other way to come is by the way of a river boat from Peru or Brazil. Some of the possible ways by boat:

    • Take a Peru water taxi from nearby Santa Rosa de Yavarí, Peru.
    • Catch twice per day boat ( ~4 hours upstream, ~2 hours downstream travel time) from Caballococha, Peru.
    • There are some boat services running from Iquitos, Peru. They vary in time, the fast boat is around 12 hours and the slow boat 3 days.
    • You can come from Manaus, Brazil via slow or fast boat, both options are long journeys! It will take around 5-7days for the slow boat, and 1.5 – 2 days for the fast boat It arrives into Tabatinga, where you can then cross into Leticia (and therefore, into Colombia)

    Important notes on Yellow Fever

    It’s essential that you have been vaccinated against yellow fever at least 15 days before coming to Leticia, so make sure you do that well in advance and carry your yellow fever certificate with you.

    For more information on Leticia, the Amazon, and Colombia:

    General: 31 exciting things to do in Leticia, Colombian Amazon | Three Ways to appreciate the Amazon from Leticia, Colombia |The Colombian Amazon on a Backpacker’s Budget | Books to Read:The Lost City of Z: A Tale of Deadly Obsession in the Amazon | Eating: Lonely Planet Leticia Restaurants | From the Tribe to the Table in the Colombian Amazon | Leticia Itineraries: Leticia, Colombia: A Three-Day Itinerary in the Amazon | Tours: Tanimboca tours & packages | Amazon Experience Jungle Tours | Other parts of Colombia: Salento: In the Heart of Colombia’s Coffee Region | 21 things to know before you visit Cartagena | A guide to Medellin, Colombia | The Top 5 Museums in Bogotá

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  • Jardin de Balata, Martinique’s Hillside Paradise

    Jardin de Balata hadn’t originally made it onto my to-do list, but as I slipped through a hillside tropical paradise of palms, ferns, tropical flowers and flitting hummingbirds I quickly realised what a mistake missing this would’ve been. It seems obvious now, that Martinique, the place known as the island of flowers would be a good place to visit some gardens!

    Horticulturist and poet Jean-Phillipe Thoze began cultivating the garden of his dreams, travels and childhood memories on the land of his grandmother’s traditional creole home in 1982. By 1986 (coincidentally, the year I was born), he opened up his masterpiece to the public and put on display the many different varieties of tropical plants he had collected from his many trips around the world.

    Nowadays you can spot around 3,000 varieties of tropical plants, gathered from all around the globe, and you can loose yourself for hours admiring the abundance of begonias, magnificent bromeliads, anthuriums, water lilies, and an impressive 300 varieties of palm trees.

    First Impressions of Jardin de Balata

    It was humid and drizzly on arriving, in the most charming of misty-tropical-jungle type ways. Everything was lush and green, hummingbirds were abundance and in every possible way it felt like paradise.

    The entrance is the glorious traditional house where you pay your entrance fee, and the super friendly staff do also speak English if you need it! Once we’d made our way inside, we were immediately treated to a swarm of beautiful hummingbirds feeding on the bird feeders tethered to the verandah, looking out over breathtaking view across the rainforest.

    The Treetop Canopy Walk

    A new attraction to the Jardin de Balata is the treetop canopy walk, which allows you up high on robe bridges to see the gardens from, quite literally, new heights. It does get quite high up, and the experience is magnificent. It’s a beautiful way to experience even more levels of the garden, and sweeping views out to the The Pitons du Carbet, the nearby hills which are the guardians of Balata!

    Getting to Jardin de Balata

    It’s an easy drive from Fort-de-france, and on this occasion we brought our rental car over here as a part of a larger road trip around the Northern parts of Martinique. From Fort-de-france, take the Morne Rouge exit by the route de la trace. If you’re coming from the other side (St Pierre) then take the exit at the bottom of the descent, in the direction of Morne Rouge on the route de la trace.

    But you can also arrive via public transport by using the bus from Fort-de-france, To do this, take line L25 from Fort de France, the route travels from Aliker to Jardin de Balata. Get off the bus just outside the exit. This bus travels approximately every 30 mins except for on Sundays and public holidays. The fare costs around €1.50 and takes 20 minutes to arrive.

    Best time to visit Jardin de Balata

    There isn’t a bad time to visit, although if you ask the staff they’ll let you know afternoons are the best time for some tranquility. It rains a lot up here, and if you read some guides they will say it rains year round at this height! But I went in the rain and the mist was magical, and certainly not a reason to hesitate visiting.

    What to look out for .. Flora

    The extraordinary grounds are home to around 3000 species of tropical plants (See the full collection here) from as far afield as Malaysia, Guyana, Phillipines, Jamaica, Madagascar, Ecuador, China, Japan, West Indies, South Pacific, Brazil, Australia, India, Mexico, Réunion, Colombia, Sumatra, Solomon Islands, Vietnam, Egypt, New Zealand, Peru, Cameroon, Indonesia, Java.. amongst others.

    Some things to look out for on your stroll around the gardens:

    • Towering White Latanier (Bismarckia nobilis)
    • Porcelain Rose (Phaeomeria magnifica)
    • South American bromeliads (Bromeliaceae)
    • Hanging lobster claw (Heliconia rostrata)
    • Laceleaf (Anthurium)
    • Balisiers (including Heliconia caribaea purpurea)
    • Red Alpinia (Alpinia purpurata)
    • Hibiscus (Hibiscus)
    • Wild orchids (Orchidaceae)
    • Exotic water lilies (Nymphaeaceae)
    • Variegated pandanus (Pandanus baptistii variegata)
    • Bamboo (Bambusa vulgaris)
    • Cinnamon tree (Cinnamomum zeylanicum)
    • Philodendrums (various varieties)
    • Ti plant / palm lily (Cordilyne terminalis) Which have come from New Zealand!

    What to look out for .. Fauna

    There are not many creatures whom live at the Jardin de Balata, but if you look carefully there are some wonderful species to be seen. While you’re exploring, keep your eyes peeled for the following:

    • Frogs Martinique is home to four species of frog, and one toad – if you’re lucky, you may spot one lounging about on the lillypads in one of the ponds.
    • Green geckos / Anoli (Anolis fuscoauratus) these little critters are one of the most likely visitors you’ll spot here! They love lazing in the sun and scurrying around the plans.
    • Hummingbird there are four types of hummingbird in Martinique – the crested hummingbird (Orthorhyncus cristatus), the falle-vert hummingbird (Eulampis holosericeus)– The blue-headed hummingbird (Cyanophaia bicolor) and the Madeira hummingbird (Eulampis jugularis). During my visit, the falle-vert, or purple throated carib was the main hummingbird I spotted, but if you keep an eye out you can spot the others too!
    • Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola) Known locally as sucrier à ventre jaune, these pretty little birds are noticeably by their bright yellow chests, and enjoy hanging around the gardens.
    • Matoutou Falaise (Antilles pinktoe tarantula) the avicularia versicolor, also called Matoutou Falaise, is a protected species here in Martinique where it’s a native species, it is absolutely forbidden to capture one of these treasures… It is considered to be one of the most beautiful tarantulas in the world, they are born blue, and change color as they grow up. It is the queen of Jardin de Balata and if you’re extra lucky you might spot one (I didn’t though, maybe next time!)
    • Butterflies it’s only natural that the island of flowers also plays home to a host of colourful butterflies. From swallowtails to Junonias, you’ll spot beautiful butterflies fluttering around the flowers here.

    What to do Nearby

    On your way back down to Fort de France, don’t forget to stop in at the Balata Cathedral (Sacré-Cœur de Balata) It was built in 1925 as an exact replica of Sacré-Cœur in Montmartre, Paris.

    Alternatively, you can continue on to the north and explore the city of St Pierre, a city formally known as the Paris of the Caribbean before it was destroyed by a volcanic eruption in 1902. Nowadays, it’s still a wonderful place to visit as there are many historic remains, and the Musée vulcanologique Franck Perret, which is a fascinating volcanological museum.

    For more info on Jardin de Balata

    Official Website | Wikipedia page | on Lonely Planet | on Facebook

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  • Summer is coming + October Gratitude

    Not in a bad way, just in a back-at-work, finding a place to live, last week of semester at school kinda way and I haven’t been posting as frequently as I’d like to have been.

    The road trip was a wonderful adventure, beginning in Christchurch (the South Island of New Zealand) winding up through the Marlborough wine region, sleeping in a renovated wine barrel cabin, then onwards to sunny Picton where we admired the gorgeous Marlborough sounds and crossed to the North Island by the way of the InterIslander ferry.

    Rural New Zealand is beautiful, and possibly exactly how you’d expect. We explored rolling Hobbiton-esque hillside, took a boat ride through the magnificent Waitomo glow worm caves, drove past ‘Mount Doom’, admired the otherworldly bubbling mudpools and steaming geysers of Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland, and stayed in a luxurious treehouse chalet in the Coromandel coast.

    As we settle into a new apartment here in Auckland, and as my semester comes to a close for the year, I will soon have a lot more time to dedicate to personal projects, writing, and blogging.

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  • Wats & Waterfalls: A Weekend Road Trip from Chiang Mai

    The year was twenty-fifteen, I was an eager new explorer having recently discovered the digital nomad life and set out on a one way, endless journey across Southeast Asia. Chiang Mai had become my home base, and I was eager to explore the region.

    It was the idea of leaving without a plan, I think that was the most exciting part. I had spent my first month traveling full of adventure and excitement, booking budget rooms on a whim & deciding on a day-by-day basis how long to stay before it was time to move on.

    However, Since arriving in Chiang Mai and renting monthly apartments, life had become less unpredictable. I ached a little for the constant whirlwind of unplanned travel, and got itchy feet for an adventure.

    Road Trip Chiang Mai
    Rural roads north of Chiang Mai

    Renting a car in Chiang Mai & driving in Thailand

    Prior to coming to Asia, I had never imagined renting a car here, images of Bangkok traffic jams filled my mind. Yet, somehow in the glow of life aboard, things eased up, knowing the roads and the culture a little better made driving a little less intimidating and a opened up more possibilities.

    Yet, I was wary.

    I’d not yet been scammed, stolen from or seriously ripped off in my three months in Thailand so far, but the stories of vehicle rental scams still lingered in my mind. We were cautious to ask around and research before choosing a car rental service, which really paid off.

    We were pointed in the direction of a company called Budget Catcher. Small, locally owned and friendly with fantastic prices and great service. The rental car was in excellent condition, came with full premium insurance and only cost us 799 Baht per day with a 3000 baht deposit (this was in 2015, mind you – I’m sure prices are different now!)

    I can’t compliment Budget Catcher enough, everything was smooth & helpful and with absolutely no issues around getting our deposit back at the end.

    Driving in Thailand is no-where near as bad as I imagined (not that I was the driver on this occasion, but I certainly observed) although every time you settle into the routine something bizarre and totally Thailand happens to catch you off guard again. Things like motorbikes whipping past without warning, songthaews pulling out into the wrong lane on a blind corner indicating you to undertake them and cars traveling the wrong way down four-lane super-highways.

    Thailand Road Trip
    Beautiful Countryside All Around

    Brunch stop in Mae Rim, on the outskirts of Chiang Mai

    Whilst busy romanticising the town of Mae Rim, I’d imagined the quaintest of small village, sumptuous local northern Thai food and wood carvers sitting roadside peddling intricately designed furniture made from local teak.

    Oh, how wrong could I be.

    Mae Rim is essentially a suburb of Chiang Mai and a good indication you are headed out of town, this part of town is just made for tour busses. Giant tour busses that shuttle hoards of visitors over to the nearby attractions such as tiger kingdom and the elephant camps.

    The road is a busy highway and there are very few cafes or places worth stopping on the main stretch. In the end, brunch was found at See Pak Restaurant , tucked away just off the main stretch, a focus on American food (But also some good Thai to be had) with great atmosphere and good food.

    Lunch under Doi Chiang Dao

    The industrial buildings and run-down abandoned store fronts thinned out, and all remnants of the city faded into the background as we spent the next hour or so venturing towards the Chiang Dao caves. Houses gave way to rice paddies, dense jungle and farmland as we eased our way up into the mountain ranges of northern Chiang Mai.

    The air was a little cooler up here, but still smokey from the nearby residents burning piles of reeds, as well as the far-off hill tribes that burn parts of the forest supposedly encouraging the growth of a rare and profitable mushroom.

    The ‘Burning Season’ is unfortunately a yearly event for northern Thailand, as well as parts of Myanmar and Laos, driving many expats and tourists south to other parts of the country from February until April.

    Heading down a particularly scenic stretch of road we stopped in at a local restaurant for lunch. It had an impressive amount of landscaping, and a large tranquil pond with a small jetty jutting out. Manicured gardens, colourful flowers and intricate sculptures surrounded the jungle-like dining area where we sat & devoured fish with herbs and lime sauce.

    Ambling back out to the car, full and satisfied with the delicious meal and such gorgeous natural settings, it was time to continue the journey up to the Chiang Dao caves.

    Steamed fish near Chiang Mai
    Thai Style Whole Fish Served up with loads of spices, garlic & salad
    Lunch in Doi Chiang Dao
    Beautiful dining experience outside of Doi Chiang Dao

    Exploring the Chiang Dao caves

    Entering the Chiang Dao cave began with a walk through a tiny, picturesque mountain village dotted with cute little coffee shops and vendors selling fresh, locally produced coffee.

    A huge golden entrance archway loomed over head as we admired the incredible scenery.

    Orange-robed monks (a familiar sight in Thailand) meandered through pathways and gardens to intricately designed buildings and temples, woman sat in a covered pavilion weaving baskets with their hands.

    The only thing separating us from a large, stone staircase heading into the mountain now was a bridge passing over the temple’s pond, with fat orange Koi Carp and gigantic catfish swimming around peacefully as a small green turtle floated over top.

    Ponds outside Coffee Shop Outside Chiang Dao Caves
    Magnificent koi ponds at the entrance to the Chiang Dao caves

    Heading up and then down into the cave was similarly film-worthy. Buddhas carved into the stone walls and shrines on the floor. We soon met our guide who carried a lantern to guide our way as we descended into a deep and dark cave full of ancient buddhist treasures.

    The air was thick and humid, much warmer than the air we had left behind outside.

    Huge limestone formations hung all around we were led through areas the height of a football stadium, and tunnels so small we needed to crawl through. Throughout the journey, different limestone formations had been named by the locals and decorated with ribbons to honour them, we passed many different shapes – families of frogs, birds and a large formation in the shape of an elephant lung.

    Just the fact that wildlife existed in a cave initially surprised me, the environment was different than I pictured and clearly more conductive to living things. The first living thing I encountered was one of the largest spiders I have ever seen; much more pleasing to me were all the small black bats hanging from the ceiling of the cave further in.

    The Chiang Dao cave was a wondrous visit.

    Coffee Shop Outside Chiang Dao Caves
    Adorable Coffee Shop Outside Chiang Dao Caves

    A detour to Pai for the night

    We left Chiang Dao caves in high spirits, and with itchy feet to see more of this part of the country. In an overly optimistic moment we grossly underestimated the time and effort it would take to reach the town of Pai, and booked ourselves in a room there for the night.

    Many of the five hours that followed involved me relaxing solo at an isolated, rural, roadside gas station as the sun set while my partner in crime ventured off in search of the nearest ATM to pay for the gas we’d pumped, at the gas station who only took cash.

    Once that debacle came to completion, we moved on to a very tumultuous ascent into the steep, windy and dark roads that lead to Pai.

    It was months later before I learned most visitors just take the small plane over, rather than risk these treacherous roads.

    I would advise anybody following in my footsteps to make this journey in the daylight.

    As it turns out, our accommodation had pinned themselves at the wrong location on Google maps. As we sat parked down a dark gravel road in rural Pai, wondering what on earth to do next, we encountered two lost girls on a motorbike who by chance were looking for the same place.

    By 10.30pm we had checked into our room for the night, at the lovely and accordingly well-rated (but at the time inaccurately mapped) Baan Katisod.

    Late night dining in Pai

    Due to the restaurants en-route to Pai all being closed after dark, by the time we reached our room we were ravenous and exhausted. After a quick drive down the road in a semi-zombie state we stumbled upon a surprisingly stunning restaurant that had recently opened, and were still available to put us together some dinner.

    Thien Artspace is , I believe, also an art gallery. We arrived too late to spot any art, but the whole establishment was a work of art in itself. Meticulously designed with very trendy Asian influence in mind there was all manner of indoor & outdoor seating, mostly involving beautiful cushions and low tables. The ceiling was designed like a woven basket and a koi pond complete with bridge led you from the entrance, past the DJ table over to the bar.

    Santichon, Northern Thailand
    Santichon, Northern Thailand

    Seeing Pai in the daylight

    On the second day of our northern Thailand adventure I woke to an unfamiliar experience – the cold. Not something I’d felt for almost three months of traveling now.

    It was a nice experience to be snuggled into a cosy bed with a mosquito net fort while the air was crisp and cool.  However, the climate in Pai in this sleepy mountain village is only cold throughout the night, with daytime temperatures this time of year soaring up to the early-mid 30’s (celsius, that is) in the afternoon.

    Pai a very scenic mountain village that has had a tourism boom over the past 5 or so years, transforming from a sleepy town full of hill-tribe locals to a melting pot of alternative and ‘hippy’ tourists from around the world. It is pretty easy to find a yoga school, pair of harem pants or an affordable bungalow amongst the rice paddies to sleep in at night.

    Mid-morning we ventured out into our first daytime viewing of Pai, and it was just as scenic as we had hoped. Mountains, hills and greenery everywhere. Beautiful buildings, rivers and rice paddies, quite the change from Chiang Mai city that we have become used to.  We visited the walking street market and had a quick and easy breakfast at a Thai-German cafe.

    Originally planning to look around the town longer, our attempts at extending the car rental failed and in order to make it through the hilly-pass before sunset we would need to get a move on. After reviewing the internet for things to do, we decided to head west for the afternoon.

    Sight-Seeing at Santichon

    Not far out of Pai is a Chinese village that goes by the name of Santichon, settled by escapees from Yunnan, Southwest China.

    It was incredibly beautiful, with so much attention paid to the details. At some moments it felt more like a theme park than an actual village, however behind the ‘tourist’ part there is a definite community settlement.

    There are lots of tiny little Chinese houses decorated with ornaments and lanterns selling a variety of teas, ornaments, and Chinese sweets. I taste-tested a beautiful jasmine fragranced green tea, admired all the gorgeous tea sets and brought a bottle of coffee wine that had been produced in nearby Chiang Rai.

    The main road into the Chinese village was well signposted, and lined with street vendors selling a variety of Chinese tea, snacks, trinkets and food.

    Vendors at the Santichon entrance
    Vendors at the Santichon entrance

    Snacking at the Jungle Cafe

    Continuing on the journey up into the hills, in search of waterfalls, we arrived upon a stretch of road dotted with small cafés. The Jungle Cafe was the winner of my attention.

    It was idyllic, my idea of total relaxation. Sunny & surrounded by nature, reggae music, hammocks and good food. A couple of backpackers were playing on the pool-table while I enjoyed a delicious fruit salad of mandarins, dragon fruit and papaya with yoghurt and honey.  I would love to have found this spot sooner &  stayed for a week more.

    The Jungle Cafe – A dream chillout spot
    Jungle Cafe, Pai
    So laid back, so many hammocks

    Waterfalls at Mo Paeng

    Winding up and into the hills in such perfect weather was as good as it sounds, it was a welcome break to be out in nature again. The Mo Paeng waterfalls were only a few more minutes up the hill from the Jungle Cafe and when we arrived we found a few other tourists around sunbathing, however it certainly wasn’t overcrowded or unpleasant.

    All up, Mo Paeng waterfalls are only 9km outside of Pai and are an easy spot to find if you are looking for some big flat rocks to sunbathe on, beautiful natural scenery and pools to swim in. The water was quite cool and nobody was swimming, but on hotter days people dip into the clear pools and are often seen using the flat rocks of the waterfall as a natural waterslide.

    The basin is surrounded by banana palms & jungle and as you kick back & relax in the sun you can spot a number of differently coloured butterflies.

    From the carpark at the top, the waterfalls are only a couple of minutes walk away. Unlike some other waterfalls in the region these are very easily accessible and suitable even for people without hiking gear or the stamina to walk for long distances.

    Waterfalls at Mo Paeng
    Waterfalls at Mo Paeng

    The long drive home to Chiang Mai

    The journey back to Chiang Mai was a race against the sun. After the harrowing experiences of driving on the 1096 in the dark the night before, getting to the other side of the hill range before sun-down became rather important to us.

    Driving these roads during the day was much easier than at night, the scenery much better too. There are various national parks, geysers, hot-springs and street vendors selling the usual bits and pieces.

    Stopping at a roadside restaurant & market it quickly became apparent that this was where the tour-buses were paid to stop. Lot’s of seating, low quality food & over-pricing tend to be the standard in these tour-bus truck-stop areas. The food looked unappetising and the chicken was sitting out in the sun, pre cut into un-appetising little bits ready to be cooked. We skipped on the meal and loaded up on pre-packed snacks before continuing on our journey.

    We made it out of the hills just as the sun was setting and joined the rush-hour traffic heading back through Mae Rim to Chiang Mai, feeling rather pleased with ourselves for successfully navigating the Thai roads.

    Beautiful views around the Northern Chiang Mai region & villages

    Overall, it was a magical 2 days. We experienced rural Thailand, jungles, waterfalls, caves and temples as well as observing what life is like closer to the Burmese border.  Thanks to avoiding the ‘big’ tourist attractions around Mae Rim and focusing more on natural attractions it was also a very cost effective trip. If you are in or around Chiang Mai, I highly recommend hiring a car, bike or driver and getting out and exploring – there is so much beauty you will miss if you spend your entire stay in Chiang Mai!

  • September Gratitude & Springtime Curiosities

    Spring is beginning to show here in New Zealand, with blossoms blooming and daffodil sprouts coming up. I’m so grateful to see more blue skies and sunny afternoons. After spending a very unexpected winter back in my home country, I’m super appreciate of the promise of spring & summer to come.

    When I set out on my nomad journey, I had planned to chase the sun. Other than the occasional dip into wintery climates, for the most part, I’d succeeded for six years! So all this cold and darkness came as a bit of a shock to the system.

    But it’s not all bad, of course! I am very lucky to be where I am during the current state of the world, and I am enjoying feeling the anticipation of spring coming on all around and focusing on gratitude for this month.

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  • Discovering the Most Magical Beaches of the Oaxaca Coast

    Sometimes at night I would wake up, frantic with a desire to get back to Mexico. To finally explore the Oaxaca Coast I’d wanted to visit for so long, to soak myself in the pacific ocean and fill myself with tacos. It’s all I could think about.

    At the intercept of two relationships: one coming, one going; I found myself stuck. I had rented an apartment in Melbourne, purchased some furniture then within a few short months realised I wasn’t yet ready to give up the wandering nomad life I’d come to know and had desperate cravings to jump back on a plane and never look back.

    My leap towards the Oaxacan coastline involved an urgent dash to find new tenants to take my lease, and thankfully amidst my whirlwind chaos of unsettled life and new beginnings those new tenants wanted to buy my furniture, too.

    It was a lucky escape, for a second there I almost became a normal person who lived in one place.

    Instead, once again I became a wanderer. First stop? The Oaxaca Coast of Mexico.

    View out over Puerto Escondido

    Bahías de Huatulco

    There are a number of ways to get to the Oaxaca coast, the most popular are the larger Puerto Escondido airport, the smaller Huatulco Airport, or by land from Oaxaca City.

    In this case, the flights into Huatulco suited me best.

    Huatulco is a small town, that these days is primarily a tourist development. I had visited Huatulco a few years back on a vacation with my mum where we had a charming stay at the Hotel Plaza Delphinus, sipped margaritas by the ocean and enjoyed an excellent snorkelling trip with Oaxaca Expediciones – I would recommend all of the above activities for a visit to the Huatulco beaches.

    Nevertheless, Huatulco was merely a transit point on this occasion as I made my way onwards to other Oaxaca beaches.

    Leaving Bahias De Huatulco International Airport

    Regular visitors say you can save yourself some cash by completely exiting the airport complex and walking across the road for a taxi, or, you can do as I did and decide you’re exhausted from the journey so far (I’d flown Australia to Los Angeles to here so far in this day) and book an airport offical taxi from inside the terminal.

    Expensive being a relative term – the hour long drive costs a mere fraction of what the taxi to the airport in Australia did.

    Margaritas on the beach are a popular past time at all the different Oaxaca Coast beaches
    Margaritas on the beach are a popular past time at all the different Oaxaca Coast beaches

    Mazunte Pueblo Magico

    After a hair raising cab right down into Mazunte, dotted with breathtaking vistas down over the Oaxaca coastline, I reached my new home base for the moment. A town I’d not before visited, but many friends before me had done and highly recommended Mazunte for the yoga culture, beautiful beaches and alternative atmosphere.

    I was besotted, immediately.

    Mazunte is home to the Mexican National Mexican Turtle Center
    Mazunte is home to the Mexican National Mexican Turtle Center

    It was not just my own firmly held belief – Mazunte really is magical. It is registered as one of around 120 Pueblos Magicos, towns recognised by the Mexican government for their special, or magical qualities.

    Staying in Mazunte

    Whilst in Mazunte I stayed at Posada Olivo. It was a paradise of an accomodation, and I adored every moment. Marco was such a kind and helpful host, who taught me a lot about how many Italians have come to the Oaxaca Coast and made it their home – which is why there is so much excellent pizza in the region!

    Posada Olivo is located conveniently between the main Mazunte beach, and San Agustnillo – which is a different town, but essentially joined at the hip so you can easily walk between the two.

    Playa san Agustnillo, Oaxaca

    Eating out in Mazunte

    Every day was a new discovery of something delicious (and often very healthy, thanks to the prolific yoga crowd who hang out here) Mazunte offers no shortage of great juices, smoothies, fresh fish tacos, and ceviche.

     Restaurantte Sahuaro was my favourite for fish tacos, as well as their amazing grilled tuna & different rice/vege salad bowls. I ate here most days. But when I wanted a break from the Mazunte health kick vibe and was looking for more stock standard local Mexican, I made my way to Tacos El Mazunte for great tacos & tlayudas

    • Sweet signage outside a Mazunte laundry service
    • Sleepy dog chilling out in Mazunte

    Learning Spanish in Mazunte

    I studied Spanish every day at the El Instituto Iguana Spanish School. It was my favourite language school experience I’ve had so far and I would return again in an instant, given the chance.

    The incredible space of the Instituto Iguana Spanish School

    Playa San Agustinillo

    Tucked away right next door to Mazunte is the equally delightful Playa San Agustinillo where I passed many a day – margarita in one hand, foraged book in the other.

    You see, I left my kindle somewhere onboard my inbound flight to Mexcico and lost it forever. In the small coastal Oaxacan towns I was in, there were no electronic shops and I didn’t have a long term postal address to shop online.

    So instead, I enjoyed picking up second hand books in English whenever I could find them, and made good use of the different hostel and hotel book exchange shelves everywhere I went.

    Finding books in San Agustinillo

    I’m telling you this because San Agustinillo has the most delightful bookstore of anywhere in the region, and they have a well stocked shelf in English for those of us who are still grappling with their Spanish.

    So if you’re in the area, get yourself to Nómada Librería for a delicious coffee & some new reading materials.

    Coffee & Breakfast in San Agustinillo

    Another delight in San Agustinillo is the café El sueño de Frida, introduced to me by Marco at my hotel, this cafe is run by a fellow Italian and friend of his.

    Cristina is kind, fun, and full of tips & information in the area. The cafe itself has some great books and travel guides, not to mention that her breakfast foods are super delicious.

    I passed many a morning munching on fruits or chilaquiles, planning my day out exploring or diving into a good book.

    Welcome to Playa San Agustinillo, paradise (and margaritas) await you
    Welcome to Playa San Agustinillo, paradise (and margaritas) await you

    Puerto Escondido

    Leaving Mazunte wasn’t my intention, I had hoped to stay for a month or two and find myself a little bungalow.

    At that time, Mazunte was still mostly receiving its internet by a mobile/radio link – which, as you can imagine, makes the internet speeds required by my work near impossible. There were, at that very moment, a handful of places who had just leapt on the new internet technology that arrived in this small town early 20189 – but none of them had any last minute vacancies during the current tourist season.

    The promise of faster connections and coworking spaces lured me over to the bigger town of Puerto Escondido, an hour up the coast.

    Lazy days under the palms on San Agustinillo beaches
    Lazy days under the palms
    Gorgeous street art everywhere you turn

    Coworking in Puerto Escondido

    The easiest choice was the local Selina. If you’ve not travelled and attempted to work at the same time from Central America, you may not have encountered a Selina before.

    They are a hybrid of coworking and coliving, with a range of dorm and private rooms, along with separate coworking passes. They can be quite pricy compared to alternative accomodation + coworking options, but they are also generally very nice places to be.

    For some of my stay in Puerto Escondido I stayed and worked from the Selina and it was pretty idyllic. Beach front and full of chill out spaces and various pools, I would stay there again happily if I were passing through.

    Gorgeous Chill Out space at Selina Puerto Escondido

    Playa Bacocho

    As a wildlife enthusiast, nothing delighted me more than taking part in releasing tiny baby sea turtles, hatched just that day, out into the grand Pacific ocean.

    Learning about the relentless conservation efforts of the volunteers who work through the day, and patrol the beaches right through the night, to protect these precious turtles from predators and poachers.

    There are a few places to be involved with sea turtles on the Oaxacan coast, but Playa Bacocho is the most accessible. The teeny tiny turtles are released each day at 5pm, and if you pay a 100mx donation to the charity you get given your own little turtle (for a few moments, anyhow) to love, cherish & name before gently releasing from their protective coconut shell (oils on our hands can damage their delicate young skin, so it’s best not to touch them directly) out on the sand for them to make their way down to the sea.

    It’s an emotional rollercoaster as seabirds swoop and dive around to try and pick themselves up a baby turtle for dinner. So a lot of the process is throwing things into the air to deter the seabirds from getting their beaks around one of our beloved releases.

    The whole experience lasts no more than an hour, but is quite emotional to free a wild animal out into the wild like this.

    Baby sea turtle release at Playa Bacocho is an unforgettable experience

    Playa Carrizalillo

    The magical Playa Carrizalillo was everything I had dreamed of in a Mexican beach. Soft, golden sand, hedged by greenery, warm waters and the best sunsets.

    It is the next most popular beach in Puerto Escondido after Playa Zicatela, but it’s all for a good reason – it’s well worth the trip to spend a day.

    Playa Carrizalillo Sunsets – pure magic!

    The best fish tacos in Puerto Escondido

    Smoked fish taco was suggested as the best fish tacos around, which was all too conveniently placed just a few minutes walk from my room at Casa Losodeli and an easy stroll from Playa Carrizalillo, too.

    The tacos were, as promised, excellent. they were some of the best fish tacos I’ve ever had.

    Smoked Fish tacos near Playa Carrizalillo have some of the best fish tacos I’ve ever tasted (and I’ve travelled for tacos – extensively!)

    Puerto Angelito

    I adore snorkelling, and was on a mission to find the best snorkelling beaches in town. I was assured there were plenty, but my best bet would be to check out Puerto Angelito for the calmest waters and the most sheltered bay.

    That advice was not wrong. Puerto Angelito is snorkeling paradise – it’s also home to some lovely beachfront bars and restaurants, as well as a jump point for boat trips.

    The highlight of Puerto Angelito was the morning sea safari with Omar’s Sportfishing (despite the name, no fishing is involved in this tour) where we set out at dawn for three hours on the water spotting dolphins, sea turtles and humpback whales.

    Truly magical Playa Angelito - one of the Oaxaca Coast's true gems
    Truly magical Playa Angelito – one of the Oaxaca Coast’s true gems

    Playa Zicatela

    Playa Zicatela is the most popular beach in Puerto Escondido, it’s long and has some of the best surfing in Mexico– drawing a huge crowd of surfers & pro surfer competitions throughout the year.

    I spent half of my time in Puerto Escondido located near Playa Carrizalillo, and the other half right on the doorstep of Playa Zicatela – they have such a different vibe from one another that it’s almost like being in completely different cities.

    Zicatela is where Selina Coworking and Coliving space is, and the streets are lined with juicebars and surf shops. It’s much less of a local feel, and more of a beachy, surfer, tourist vibe – but that can be a really nice thing too.

    Playa Zicatela sunset
    Playa Zicatela sunsets are out of this world – so beautiful
    Welcome to the Oaxaca Coast
    Dawn waves out on a dolphin spotting boat trip

    Would I return to the Oaxaca Coast?

    In a heartbeat, yes.

    The state of Oaxaca already captured my heart, many times before – visiting the coastline did nothing other than amplify the feelings.

    When the world is safe to travel again, I hope to find my way back again. To experience the true magic of the Oaxaca coast over, and over, and over again.

    Sunset, Playa Zicatela Puerto Escondido
    Beautiful sunset out over Playa Zicatela

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  • A Day in Kathmandu | The city of temples in Nepal

    Kathmandu wasn’t exactly love at first sight, well at least not in my case. I’d ridden a thirty-six hour bus trip through the Himalayan foothills from Delhi, vomiting out the window the entire way .

    It had been some bad chicken the day before, It tasted like mud and rotting flesh. I only had a few mouthfuls but I knew already I’d made a poor move. Nevertheless, my Indian visa was about to expire and I had no choice but to board that bus.

    As it turns out, Kathmandu is a vibrant metropolis where old meets new and bicycle rickshaw drivers peddle past goats grazing trash outside the most delicious of restaurants.

    Like my own hometown, it is a city that is overcoming natural disaster, rebuilding after literally earth-shattering quakes brought this majestic city to its knees.

    All in all, I spent over a month in Nepal – dipping in and out of Kathmandu, drinking in all the wonderful food, culture, and hospitality. But it took only a day of exploring to fall in love with it.

    While drifting in these lanes of Thamel, you feel like Alice in Wonderland, The feelings of Paarijat linger as an epiphany
    and the smoke and aroma of incense sticks welcome you into a dream land.

    Avijeet Das @TheAvijeetDas

    First impressions

    “Oh, you’re a writer?”, he nudged. I was somewhat limp in the passenger seat, making my way out of the hospital and bound for my central city hostel. “Here in Nepal we value writers, it is a good profession” .

    It was dusk, and the street vendors were setting up on the side of the road as our taxi stopped and started amidst the evening rush hour. Aside from a churning stomach, it felt good here – relaxed, friendly. A different pace of life from India where I had recently arrived from. He was kind, and reserved, and I eased into a little gentle chatter en route to my Thamel accomodation.

    The first thing most tourists learn about Kathmandu is that Thamel is the main tourist-area. It’s where you’ll find the most shopping, bazaars, hotels and restaurants in Kathmandu. Kathmandu is serviced by an International Airport, although as I did, you can also reach the city via bus from India (Delhi, Varanasi and Gorakpur are the most common places to leave from). At the time of writing, the roads to Tibet are still closed, and Nepal only shares a land border with these two countries so these are your choices.  Nepal has no trains (well none useful to visitors, anyhow) so getting around is by bus, car and taxi.

    My hostel took wonderful care of me, feeding me vegetable broth and mashed potatoes until my stomach healed, upgrading my room and providing marvelous vistas across the city from its rooftop.

    Other than a rather rocky start, I quickly came to love Kathmandu and would recommend it to anyone looking for somewhere a little different to get away to for a day, or much longer.

    When to Visit Kathmandu

    October is Autumn , and the peak season for visiting all of Nepal. The weather is mild and the air is clear from recent monsoons. It is dry but not too cold at night, and generally warm and sunny during the day. It also features Tihar and Dashain, the two main Nepalese festivals of the year. So if you like the atmosphere, this is an excellent time to come over. If you want to avoid the festivals and throngs of tourists, then the springtime, from March until May, is a fabulous time to experience the rhododendrons and other blossoming flowers of Nepal. June-August is summer and also monsoon, so come bearing raincoats! December – February is winter, it can be very cold and snow (but not in Kathmandu). However it can also be very scenic and good for low altitude trekking,

    What to do while you’re here

    Kathmandu is an interesting city to explore, and has a number of areas, temples and markets to explore. Some of the key things to do in Kathmandu are:

    • Hiking, of course! This is one of the main reasons many people visit Nepal, and for good reason – it’s spectacular! There is a lot of hiking in Nepal and you can do it alone, just remember to be safe.
    • Visit Durbar Square to explore historic temples and the temple of the living goddess, although Durbar square is working through some long term earthquake renovations, it is an incredible place to visit. Lining the square are a number of rooftop patio restaurants and bars with wonderful views, too.
    • Stroll the Garden of Dreams for a soothing spot of tranquility amongst the chaos of the city. It’s kind of an oasis, and is well worth checking out after you’re a little burned out from the thamel bustle.
    • Check out Swayambhunath Temple & Boudhanath Stupa to see some of the more ornate and spiritual sites of Kathmandu.
    • Shop for handicrafts in Thamel. Some of the popular wares include pashminas, yak wool blankets, bone, wood and glass jewellery, wooden musical instruments and puppets. I’m not much of a souvenir collector, but was absolutely charmed b the puppets dangling from strings all about the town.
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    If you only eat 3 dishes in Kathmandu…

    Food is absolutely my thing, my motivation you could say. A huge part of the reason I travel is to taste the local foods. Kathmandu is a hub of food and I loved every moment.

    1. Momos, momos, everywhere. Momos are one of my favourite dumplings, and as the years go by I am in perpetual pursuit of momos as good as I found on the streets of Kathmandu (spoiler alert, no such luck) you can find them fried, steamed, or my favourite version: Chilli Momo – doused in a chilli sauce or soup. You can find them just about anywhere, but my favourite come from the street cart vendors.
    2. Nepalese Thali Plate
    3. Simi Nariwal. Simi means green beans, nariwal means coconut – combined with some curry paste and served on rice it’s something magical. My favourite is found out in Pokhara, but there’s certainly some good Simi Nariwal to be had in Kathmandu, so seek it out!
    • Chilli Momos
      Chilli Momos
    • Nepalese Thali
      Nepalese Thali
    • Simi Narawal
      Simi Narawal

    Where did I stay?

    Kathmandu is the hub of Nepal and there are no shortages of accommodation, especially within the area of Thamel. It is definitely possible to turn up and look for somewhere to stay once you arrive. However, if you feel more comfortable booking in advance, I can personally recommend:

    • Katshmandap Travelers Home: What I believe to be the best hostel in Kathmandu, great for dorm-style living and meeting other travelers. I arrived here after a traumatic long bus journey with food poisoning that resulted in a few nights in the hospital. Katshmandap moved me into a private room at no extra charge, and checked on me every day to make sure I was recovering well – I will never forget the generosity or hospitality, nor how safe and cared for I felt during my recovery.
    • Bright Star Hotel: It’s the owners that made Bright Star hotel so special for me – in fact, I stayed twice. Once on my own, then again when my family came to visit Nepal. We were treated with so much kindness, and they have private rooms at a good price. Clean and safe and super central in Thamel, but down a side road so few steps out of the way from the noise & chaos
    • Papaya House: Unbelievably good value and gorgeous, comfortable, clean rooms. Good WiFi too. A little out of the way so you need to catch taxis or local busses to get just about anywhere, but it’s great to experience a more local neighborhood of Kathmandu.

    So, what was my experience in Kathmandu like?

    • Nepal is home to some of the friendliest people I’ve ever met in my travels. The hospitality is exceptional. I felt perpetually welcomed and at home, everywhere I went.
    • Kathmandu is an amazing city to explore, although rather compact and small. After a few days you may feel that you’ve seen it all, although I feel pretty confident you won’t have! There’s so much hidden around every corner, and down each alleyway.
    • The city is in a valley and the pollution is some of the highest in the world. Some people struggle with this, but personally it didn’t bother me much.
    • The city has an amazing blend of Nepalese, Indian, Tibetan and Chinese Influence, so the food is diverse and the atmosphere much more relaxed than in neighbouring India. Don’t forget to eat the momos!
    • Thamel is one of the best spots in all of Nepal for well-priced handicrafts, so shop it up if you want some souvenirs to send back home (or keychains & clothes if you’re trying to keep a small suitcase)

    Who would I recommend Kathmandu to?

    I enthusiastically recommend Kathmandu to everyone who will listen. It’s a wonderful destination for anybody who wants to be near excellent trekking, or experience a more chilled-out version of India. Kathmandu still has the amazing culture, vibrancy and delicious foods, curries and festivals like India, but without so much of the things that can make it overwhelming. You don’t even need to be into trekking – it wasn’t at all a part of my trip, and yet I loved every moment.

    General: Guide to Thamel, Kathmandu | 10 Important Tips for Visiting Kathmandu | Ten Interesting things to do in Kathmandu | 5 Offbeat Experiences in Kathmandu | Solo Female Travel: Traveling Alone in Nepal as a Woman  Books to Read: The Snow Leopard (Penguin Classics)| Lonely Planet Nepal (Travel Guide) | Escape From Kathmandu | Lonely Planet Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya (Travel Guide) | While the Gods Were Sleeping: A Journey Through Love and Rebellion in Nepal | Nepal – Culture Smart!: The Essential Guide to Customs & Culture | Little Princes: One Man’s Promise to Bring Home the Lost Children of Nepal Eating: Eight Great Eats in Kathmandu | Trip Advisors Top Kathmandu Restaurants List | Vegan & Vegetarian Food in Kathmandu | A Backstreet Guide to the best Cafes in Kathmandu | Putting Nepali food on the map  Kathmandu Itineraries: Rough Guide’s Kathmandu Itineraries | Kathmandu Valley, Nepal: itinerary, cost breakdown, packing list  | Nepal in under a week: visiting with only a 7 day or less itinerary Trekking: Tips for Trekking to Everest Base Camp | A Backpackers Guide to Nepal | Guide to the Annapurna Circuit Trek | A Photographic Journey to Everest Base Camp Other parts of Nepal:  Chilling at Lakeside Pokhara, Nepal | Hike From Nagarkot To Nala | 2 Days in Pokhara | 10 Reasons to Visit Chitwan National Park

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  • New Zealand Wilderness: Exploring Lewis Pass & The Maruia Valley

    The centre of New Zealand’s South Island can feel a million miles away. Wild, rugged & windswept full of beech forests, alpine passes and abundant nature.

    Welcome to the wilderness of New Zealand’s Central South Island. A place I had little experience with, despite growing up right around the corner. That was until twenty-twenty arrived, the pandemic hit, and I set out on an adventure to explore my own backyard.

    Lewis Pass and the Maruia Valley are often lesser known by tourists, but the area is full of wildlife, hot springs & natural beauty as well as excellent food & drinks if you know where to look – so it was a great choice for a few short getaways from Christchurch.

    SH7 in the Lewis Pass
    SH7 in the Lewis Pass

    Red Beech Forests

    Towering red beech trees make up the forests around here, with a smattering of smaller silver birches growing underneath.

    Pure beech forest is the dominent forest cover in the Lewis Pass, and numerous other parts of the country – it covers more than 2.9 million hectares of New Zealand. The Lewis Pass is an excellent area to see this type of forest, and experience the fairytale-esque woodland vibe by meandering through towering beech trees, huge mossy tree roots and delicate ferns spread out across the forest floor.

    The red beech forests of the Lewis Pass and Maruia Valley provide a wonderful opportunity for some shinrin-yoku (forest bathing)

     It is simply being in nature, connecting with it through our senses of sight, hearing, taste, smell and touch. Shinrin-yoku is like a bridge. By opening our senses, it bridges the gap between us and the natural world.

    From FOREST BATHING: How Trees Can Help You Find Health and Happiness by Dr. Qing Li,

    St James Walkway

    Entrance to the Saint James walkway
    Entrance to the Saint James walkway off SH 7

    Located off State Highway 7, The St James Walkway  is a multi day hike through sub-alpine conservation and reserve areas. It’s a great trail for wildlife spotting and covering 66 km of diverse scenery over 4–5 days.

    It’s considered a good introductory trail to multiday walking, although as Michal points out it’s still the New Zealand wilderness, which can be demanding and dangerous if you encounter bad weather conditions. So it’s important to go well prepared for this, or any other hikes in New Zealand.

    There are a number of huts in the St James area where you can rest the night,  however, during the summer months it is recommended that you carry a tent with you, as accommodation in the huts is limited and available on a first come, first served basis.

    You can read read more details about the St James walkway on the Department of Conservation Website.

    View from the Maruia River, across the Maruia Valley
    View from the Maruia River, across the Maruia Valley

    Marble Hill + Deer Valley Campsites

    If you’re looking for a couple of nights to pitch a tent and kick back out in the wild, Marble Hill and Deer Valley are both excellent, relaxed & off the beaten track campsites.

    Marble Hill campsite is tucked away off the main road, bordering the forest. The sunsets are beautiful and there is wildlife all around. It’s very easy to camp here, and no bookings are required – you simply pay cash ($8 per night/per adult + additional fees for children) at the self-registration stand on arrival to the campsite.

    Deer Valley campsite is a scenic small space in the beech forests, on the banks of the Lewis river. There are 10 non-powered tent sites here, and you do not need to (nor can you) book in advance – spots are available on a first come, first serve basis. Just like Marble Hill, you pay cash on arrival ($8 per night/per adult + additional fees for children)

    tent spot at Marble Hill campsite
    My tent spot at Marble Hill campsite

    Maruia Hot Springs

    The outdoor rock pools at Maruia Hot Springs
    The outdoor rock pools at Maruia Hot Springs

    The Maruia hot springs are, in my opinion, the crowning glory of the Maruia valley. I may be bias, however, as I am a touch obsessed with hot springs.

    Maruia Hot Springs totes itself as a wellness resort, and boy does it deliver – Japanese style onsens and rock pools amidst, native bush and surrounded by mountains and towering beech forests. Birds call and the river babbles by as you sit back and enjoy one of the numerous pools, steam room, sauna or cold plunge pool.

    Maruia means place of shelter, and was a resting space for M?ori people passing through on their way to the Pounamu on the West Coast. The hot springs were a location of many a night of rest, recovery, and often battle too.

    The new owners of Maruia have done an exceptional job to turn this into a luxurious and world-class experience – their is excellent food, guided nature walks, massage, yoga and the premisis is even powered by its own hydro-power.

    You can visit with a day pass, or make the most of the various accomodations options available – ranging from camping, to glamping pods, up to luxury hotel rooms.

    You can see the different accomodation options & packages here

    • Indoor Onsen style hot pool at Maruia Hotsprings

    Native Bird Spotting

    Here in New Zealand we may not have many large mammals to spot, but what we lack in bears we make up for in an abundance of native birdlife.

    The Lewis Pass and Maruia Valley area is a haven for native New Zealand birds. If you’re lucky, you might spy some of the following:

    Native P?wakawaka (Fantail) bathing in a stream
    Native P?wakawaka (Fantail) bathing in a stream

    Reefton Distillery Co.

    Just past Maruia Springs when coming from Christchurch you will find the charming West Coast township of Reefton. Reefton is delightful in its own right, thanks to the preservation of an old-town West Coast village vibe.

    But, scenery and villages aside, the Reefton Distillery Co. is well worth a visit just to sample some Little Biddy Gin an exquisite local gin made from wild, New Zealand native botanicals. I’m a bit of a fan of interesting Gins, and this is one of my favourites. In an unusual way it tastes just like the NZ forests, go and give it a try!

    Roads around Waipara before reaching the Lewis Pass, Canterbury side.
    Roads around Waipara before reaching the Lewis Pass, Canterbury side.

    Waipara Wineries

    On the outskirts of the Lewis Pass (on the Christchurch Side) lies the Waipara region, well worth a mention for the excellent wineries that you can find here. It’s a small wine region for NZ, but it packs a punch.

    I’m particularly partial to Waipara Reislings, and you can try my two favourites at Pegasus Bay Winery and Waipara Hills Wines – the latter being an excellent stop to try out their Medeterranian styled vineyard restaruant.

    If foods your thing, then make sure not to miss Greystone Wines to try one of their equisite tasting menus.

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  • A Symphony of Wildlife in the Amazon Rainforest

    It was dusk in the treetops of Leticia, in the furthest reaches of Southern Colombia. First came the cicadas, intensifying in their chorus of chirruping. Slowly, the percussion of croaking frogs joined in, a backing track of speeds, depth and volume all perfectly attuned. Slowly the bats hanging outside the mesh windows began unfurling their tightly wrapped wings and preparing for an evening out hunting, the scratching vocals intermeshing with the symphony of life outside.

    The mighty Amazon rainforest was coming to life as the night set in, a chorus of activity and a hum of life gaining in momentum and intensity as a bold moon rose high above our treetop treehouse. I checked the lining of my mosquito net one more time, and shone a torch round the floor for a last minute sweep of wayward tarantulas. This was my paradise, all my childhood exploration dreams come fully realised.

    • Stilt houses in Leticia
    • Lake trading on the Amazon river
    • Stilt walkways in Leticia, Colombia

    Tears had pricked my bloodshot eyes as I gazed out from our small Colombian aircraft, the rainforest sprawling endlessly out the window in an infinite sea of green. “As we prepare for our descent into Leticia, please return your seats to the upright position..” The announcement faded to the back of my mind my emotions got the better of me.

    It was my thirty second birthday, and I was about to plunge head first into a lifetime dream of mine to explore the mighty Amazon Rainforest. The sheer wonder and excitement I felt building up to this experience what overwhelming, I’d played this moment many times in my head before. As we descended closer toward the miniature airport I traced small branching tributaries coming together to form the larger river, clouds of parakeets flew overhead the tallest trees, swooping in for the prime fruits to gorge on before returning back to the park in Leticia to roost.

    The small strip of runway tarmac was flanked with palm trees and cleared scrubland, the windows fogged just a hint as we came into slow in front of the small mostly open-aired airport building. Plans for airport expansion were mapped out in one window as we walked in towards the single baggage claim. One of the more remote towns in the world, the city of Leticia is accessible only via air or Amazon riverboat from neighbouring Brazil or Peru.

    Daydreams swirl aggressively of green anacondas slipping through murky waters. The green being the largest of the anacondas, magnificent and semi-aquatic, the reptiles of many a myth, movie, and my own deep respect and fascination. Distracted, I tugged my luggage off the conveyer belt and wandered out to find the assigned airport pickup. In a town that straddles the joining points of Colombia, Peru, and Brazil; English is far down the list of spoken languages, with Amazonian dialects being lost amongst the prominence of Spanish and Portuguese.

    • Canoeing on the Colombian Amazon
    • Eating Piranha in Leticia, Amazonas
    • Tarantula in the Amazon
    • Canoe on the Amazon lakes
    • Relaxing in a stilt house on the Amazon

    On arrival to reception, it’s a further twenty minute walk through new-growth jungle across strategically places logs and stepping stones before we reach our treehouse, towering high above the ground. I’d spent many months self-planning this trip, deciding that the packages on offer were generally too pricy, too structured, and too touristic for my usual liking. In the end, self planning was definitely the way to go and Leticia is well placed for randomly arriving tourists – there is no shortage of day trips, accomodations, and things to do with little notice.

    Leticia I found to be a vibrant and interesting small town, quite different from anything I’d expected. Homes teeter on stilts along the river banks and most resident’s livelihood depends on small, wooden long boats for getting around, working as a water taxi, or bringing fruits and other goods in from neighbouring Brazil and Peru. It’s a melting pot of the three cultures and every July the three bisecting countries meet together to share their food, dress, dance, and culture in a huge celebration of Amazonian diversity. I found this town to be like nowhere else on Earth.

    The Amazon in the flooding season is an endlessly fascinating waterworld where the rivers rise up to 15 metres, and you can explore what is normally the jungle floor by boat. A watery land of ancient trees and marvellous creatures, spilling out into across the magnificent Lagos Yahuarcaca and into the surrounding forest floor. Monstrous snakes and enormous fish compete underneath Victoria Amazonicas, the world largest lillypads spanning up to 10ft across, with stalks plunging as far as 26ft down to the bayou floor.

    It was a birthday wilder, and more overwhelming, than I ever could’ve dreamed. I would go back every year given the chance. What many see as too difficult, too dangerous, or too scary; was a wilderness paradise and relaxing escape into on of the planets truly remaining wild places. I’ll remain forever thankful that I was able to have this experience.

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