Every journey deserves to be remembered, and photography has become my way of capturing not just what places look like, but how they feel. From the golden light over Mongolian gers to the vibrant colors of Caribbean markets, these posts pair stories with the images that help me remember why travel moves me so deeply.
Nobody had warned me that howler monkeys don’t really howl. I hadn’t been expecting them to permeate the jungle with the calls of angry ghouls. I didn’t know that their rumbling gregorian chants would travel miles through the walking palms and ungurahui trees of the rainforest.
“Is it your first time here?” He twisted his head back from in front of me, gracefully moving through the cracking twigs and dangerous looking shrubs as though he were a part of the forest floor.
He had sensed my startle at the far off noises. I think he was trying to comfort me.
“In the Amazon? Yes. In Colombia? no” I responded in broken Spanish. I’d been practising since I arrived on this continent eight months ago, in late 2017.
I clumsily moved through the trail, swatting mosquitos off my face. Hopping from one paving stone to the next, following my guide. Paying extra careful attention as not to brush up against any unknown leaves or toxic creatures.
Gazing out over to a mud puddle I remembered a television show I watched years ago, where someone managed to survive a night lost in this jungle by hiding in the mud. That it was a miracle, in this hot and humid rainforest teeming with anacondas and tarantulas, that an unprepared human might make it through the night alone. Despite my own jungle hiking experiences, I still doubted I would succeed in such a miraculous survival story here.
After some more silent walking, I added – “It’s always been my dream, I mean – this. To come here” I fumbled around to find the right words “it’s my birthday”
Hop, hop, hop. The paving stones were unevenly placed and some sinking into the wet earth. I hopscotched between them like an excited small child. It was flooding season, and everything was a bit squishy underfoot. I stumbled along under the weight of my backpack, stuffed full of mosquito repellant and a bottle of celebratory bubbly wine.
“Happy birthday!” He grinned back at me broadly, not missing a beat on his well worn path. “We will be at your treehouse in just another 10 minutes, it’s just up ahead” He gestured out in front of him with his walking pole.
“we have a few rules. Before each meal a guide will come to your treehouse to walk with you. You shouldn’t walk alone out here, especially at night. It’s much too dangerous.” He paused a moment, waiting for me to absorb the seriousness of the situation and respond with a solemn nod of understanding. “Then” he announced, “Once you’re finished eating, we will walk you back to your treehouse again”
I had dreamed all my life of coming here, and this was not my first far flung adventure. It felt like I’d prepared my whole life for this moment, and I was giddy with excitement.
Up ahead stood in the forest enormous poles, leading up to traditional Amazonian treehouses. We eventually reached the base, and made the ascent up into my new lodging.
Once my guide had left, I sat swaddled in mosquito nets and opened my birthday bottle of wine – at once realising I hadn’t bought anything to drink it from. I sat for a moment, contented and sweaty. The heaviness of the jungle humidity caught up to me as I glugged sparkling wine out of the bottle. I admired a family of bats roosting in the eaves of my home, and I listened to the roaring furore of howler monkeys in the distance. Thirty two is going to be a good year, I thought to myself.
I’ve been collecting these photographs across more than a decade of visits to Oaxaca, starting from my very first trip in May 2013. When I look at them now, the textures and colours transport me immediately – those distinctive Oaxacan tablecloths, the hand-painted dishes, the flowers scattered in the background. I can taste the flavours all over again.
What surprised me most, initially, was learning about the pre-Hispanic heirloom corn varieties. I knew corn was important to Mexican cuisine, of course, but discovering these ancient varieties – criollo corn in deep purples and reds, some nearly black – opened my understanding of how fundamentally different Oaxacan food is from Mexican cuisine elsewhere.
The moles here aren’t what you’d expect if you’ve only tasted Mexican food outside of Oaxaca. The complexity is extraordinary – some require over twenty ingredients, ground by hand on volcanic stone metates that have been used for generations. I remember watching abuela after abuela working their way through the process, each family recipe slightly different, each one a masterclass in patience and technique.
These photographs capture something I find difficult to explain to people who haven’t been here. The way morning light falls across fresh tortillas still warm from the comal. The deep, earthy red of chile chilhuacle negro. The satisfaction of eating food that tastes exactly as it did centuries ago, prepared with the same care, the same reverence for ingredients that grow from this particular soil.
Looking through these images, I’m reminded why I keep returning to Oaxaca, why the flavours here have become such an important part of my understanding of what food can be when it’s deeply rooted in place.
New Zealand’s South Island is one of the most beautiful and easy-going places in the world for a road trip. I may be a little bias, we are talking not just about my home country. here – but my home island, and even home town! But in any case, I’ve driven around these parts many times and can personally testify what an awesome road trip route it is.
Starting from Christchurch, there are two main ways to get to the top of the North Island. Whilst the coastal route is the scenic & more touristed one, I prefer to take the inland route up the South Island. This path will take you through Waipara, MarbleHill, Lewis Pass, Daniels Lake, Kaiteriteri, Nelson, Picton, the Queen Charlotte Sounds, Renwick and Blenheim before either looping back down the coast to the South, or shopping on the ferry bound for the North Island.
What time of year is best to visit the South Island of New Zealand?
My favourite time of the year to take this road trip is on the outer edge of summer, in February or March. The roads are laden with roadside peach vendors and apple stores outside the orchards, sunny golden beaches and green leafy campsites. Every season brings its own charm to the region though, with snowy & steaming hot pools in the winter, abundant blossoms in the spring and richly coloured orange and red grapevines in the autumn.
However, the South Island is great to visit year round – and no matter when you go, the seasons will be changeable. To get an idea of the current climate, head to Canterbury Weather Updates for the Canterbury regions, or MetService to get a bigger picture for the Buller, Nelson and Marlborough regions of (Northern parts of) the South Island.
The New Zealand summertime spans December through to March, although some years you can find winter sprawling out into January. Likewise, if you pick a good year, the warm summer days can last as late as April. December and January are definitely the busiest periods for this part of the country, so if you want good weather, but to avoid some of the crowds (sorry, this is a popular place – there will always be some crowds!) then choose the warm, ‘shoulder season’ late summer months of late February and March.
Autumn and Winter bring their own benefits – snowcapped peaks and gorgeous vineyards & orchards during the harvest await those who come exploring from April to August, and spring (although traditionally wet and windy!) still has nice days with crisp evenings that are perfect for popping into the steaming hot pools, and beautiful blossoming orchards around the Nelson region.
Where to start this amazing road trip?
Personally, I start in Christchurch. It’s my home town, and due to the massive earthquakes in 2010/2011, has been going through a fascinating rebuild and revival. There is plenty to do and loads of accommodation, and don’t worry – the seismic activity has almost entirely settled down at the time of writing! However, this part of New Zealand is accessible from any direction, so it is super easy to fit it into your own travel plans.
Blenheim andNelson both have regional airports that you can fly into from many other New Zealand domestic locations, this may be more convenient but be prepared that the flights are almost always more expensive than those between larger cities! But will have incredible views and lower altitude due to the smaller planes.
BothWellington andChristchurch have excellent international and domestic airports that you can fly into from across the country and world.
If you’re driving, then Wellington and Christchurch are the biggest & most practical cities to leave from. When we did this, we were leaving my hometown of Christchurch so it made sense to leave from there and head north – but many people travel this route in the opposite direction. The Marlborough and Nelson region makes an excellent part of a larger journey between Auckland and Queenstown, and there are many different companies offering rental cars and campervans in the area, check the end of this post for some recommended companies.
Stop 1: Waipara Valley & the Alpine Pacific Triangle
Heading north out of Christchurch, an easy 45 minutes out of town comes Waipara. A wine-making region gaining steady popularity over fantastic Pinot Noirs & Riesling, Waipara makes up one point on the Alpine Pacific Triangle – a scenic region famed for bubbling hot springs, vineyards and whale watching.
Stopping over in the Waipara Wine Region: Waipara is home to 31 different wineries nestled into the valley, there are 12 different cellar doors for tasting, and 4 different winery restaurants if you’re after a bite to go with your tipple. Some of the more prominent vineyards to stop in at include Waipara hills, Pegasus Bay and Torlesse. I especially enjoy Aromatics from this region, but they are also excellent producers of Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. The Waipara vineyards offer wine tasting, delicious lunches and even concerts sometimes in the summer. Having grown up less than an hour away, I have many fond memories of coming out for sunny gigs in the sun with a glass of wine. Take a look at Waipara Hills Wineries schedule to see what’s coming up next.
Stop 2: Choose your own hot spring adventure
When it comes to hot springs, you have a few options in this region:
Family Friendly: you can take the exit to the nearby Hanmer springs. New Zealand’s self proclaimed Alpine Spa Village, Hanmer Springs has bars, cafes, mountainbiking and the famous hot pools, suitable for the whole family. Take a look at the Hanmer Springs ‘Getting There’ page for more detailed information on planning a Hanmer detour. In Hanmer you’ll find many different hotels, AirBnBs, campsites, and guesthouses.
Luxury: For something a touch more romantic or luxurious, and my absolute favourite South Island stopover, Maruia Springs Thermal Resort offers small natural thermal pools, sauna, spa treatments and hotel packages (that include 24 hours access to the pools) starting from $199 at the time of writing. When taking the inland route through the Lewis Pass, Maruia is on the way so no detour is needed – you’ll drive right past the entrance.
Budget/Backpacker/Explorer: The Lewis pass has naturally occurring hot springs – some accessible by road, some involving more in-depth hikes. The most famous Sylvia Flats was unfortunately destroyed by dangerous slips in January 2017, but may get cleared and become usable again in the future.
You can check the NZ Hot Pools website for other spots, it’s an awesome website that outlines all the different hot pools, both spas and naturally occurring, around New Zealand. If you’re looking to go intrepid and find some free spots, with a bit of hunting & map-checking you can usually find dug-out hot water holes in the riverbeds to sit in, just don’t forget your bug spray!
Indoor Onsen style hot pool at Maruia Hotsprings
Ahhi-yu Foot Bath at Maruia Hotsprings
Driving the inland route through the Lewis Pass
In the end of 2016 and beginning of 2017, a combination of severe earthquakes and terrible rain caused massive slips down the coastal roads linking Nelson, Blenheim, Kaikoura and Christchurch. Although well and truly repaired now, this was a massive inconvenience for many people, however the silver lining is it forced people like myself to explore the inland route. Although driving through the Lewis Pass is considerably longer, windy and laden with hills, it is a spectacular scenic drive and takes you through many awesome places you mightn’t normally visit.
Not long out of Christchurch, heading north, you’ll quickly find yourself snaking through picturesque vineyards, dense beech forest and bone-white cliffs balancing precariously over rapids. It takes only around 3.5 hours to find the first campsite of the trip, and it it’s well worth the scenic hill-route.
After finally making your way out of Christchurch, and spending a night or two at one of the hot spring spots, it is a little too tiresome (and besides, too quick for a scenic jaunt about the island) to drive the whole way to Nelson, so I suggest camping out a night or two at a DOC (Department of Conservation) campsite around the halfway mark.
Finding campsites around NZ is super easy thanks to the DOC website’s excellent search function that allows you to narrow by region, access, types of permitted camping, price and facilities.
Marble Hill campsite has beautiful views of hills, beech forest, river and grasslands. The facilities are basic: Toilets and firepit/BBQs with plenty of spots to pitch a tent or park a camper.
There are so many beautiful walks in the area, and if you are here for more than a single night stopover you can hike to two different nearby huts. The campsite works on an $8NZD per adult, per night, camping fee through an honesty box system. You simply pop your money into an envelope with your car registration details & name, then attach a strip from it to your tent or vehicle. Credit cards are also accepted if you pay to the DOC representative who arrives at 7pm each night.
Preparing for the elements
Due to the Lewis Pass being snuggled away in a valley, it gets really cold here at night year round. When I camped here in the beginning of February (Mid Summer) it still got down to near zero degrees overnight (celsius), many nights it had recently gotten down to minus 5 even! It then got quite hot quickly in the morning and it was a race to open the tent up to the fresh air. So if you’re camping then be prepared for all seasons. This area is also prolific for sandflies all year round, so bring the insect repellant too.
Stop 4: Golden Bay, Kaiteriteri and the gateway to Abel Tasman
After leaving Marble hill you could leg it straight over to Nelson. But, you’d be missing out on one of the most beautiful parts of all of New Zealand! As a child Kaiteriteri and Golden Bay were frequent summer holiday destinations for my family, and I have so many happy memories of the gorgeous blue water, green forests and surreal deep, golden sands.
It’s a 3.5 hour drive from Marble Hill to Kaiteriteri, where you’ll find a string of beaches, and accommodation ranging from campsites, cabins, all the way up to luxury beachfront resorts. Golden Bay and Abel Tasman National park, in my opinion, are some of the most beautiful parts of the country.
Trekking the Abel Tasman regiontakes either some serious planning and equipment ,or a bit of cash to fork over to agencies who will organise it for you. It is an incredible journey though, and you can hike it all, Kayak it all, or mix it up.
It’s worth noting that these beaches are super busy in summer, and the camping spots along the hiking route have to be booked well in advance, but it all quietens down a bit in Feb/March once school goes back. Also note that if you’re exploring the Abel Tasman region, kayaking involves hiring a guide if you are not experienced.
Most of the campsites provide no cooking facilities – so you need to bring these along as well. However, if private beaches, lush jungles, turquoise lagoons and kayaking in clear waters with dolphins are up your alley, then it’s well worth the time, money and effort to look into doing it.
Alternatively, plan a day trip or overnight camping visit to Kaiteriteri, Totaranui, or one of the many other road-access campsites. In the Abel Tasman and Golden Bay regions there are plenty of options that don’t require a trek to reach.
Stop 5: M?pua, the cutest of small town New Zealand
Nelson is an awesome city, and Motueka is worth an explore too. But for something a little different, may I suggest the small town of M?pua. Explore the wharf, browse the boutiques by the water, eat fish and chips and enjoy this gorgeous little stopover for a night.
You can camp at one of the campsites, or take your pick from a selection of different accomodation options.
Stop 6: Hidden Camping Hideaways in the Queen Charlotte Sounds
The Abel Tasman and Marlborough Sounds region is full of popular campsites that burst at the seams over summer – but it doesn’t need to be so hectic. A simple DOC campsite search will turn up the smaller and more chilled out sites in the area.
One one trip, we pitched our tent on the waterfront in the absolutely spectacular and rather unknown Aussie bay. Nestled away in the awe-inspiring Queen Charlotte sounds, we were metres from the water’s edge with views of crystal clear waters and starfish resting on the pebbles underneath.
It is worth a look to find the smaller gems, and there are many!
All around New Zealand there are many hidden-away tiny campsites that are usually very cheap – often free. Simply visit the DOC website and either use their comprehensive search function or interactive map to find your next spot.
Aussie bay campsite provides:
Basic facilities on a small, tranquil, waterfront location. 6 non-powered/tent sites, so very small! But big enough to park a camper van on some of the sites.
A toilet and running water, but no cooking or showering facilities
You can pitch a tent right on the waterfront – just one metre from the ocean
Great swimming with clear water
Get there early afternoon – late enough that the campers from the night before have packed up and gone, but before the new people arrive, to score the best spots
Stop 7: Renwick, Blenheim and the Marlborough Wine Region
From Nelson, it is only a few hours drive to visit Blenheim and the famous Marlborough wine region. Around 75% of the total wine produced in New Zealand comes from this region, with a climate comparable in latitude to Portugal’s Douro Valley (although a touch cooler!).
Allan Scott is my favourite winemaker in the region, but you really need to get out and test for yourself! The best way to sample the many vineyards is by bicycle, and Blenheim doesn’t disappoint! There are many tour agencies that will rent you a bicycle, suggested itinerary & vineyard map. Alternatively the Marlborough Wine & Food Festival is an annual sellout and a great way to sample a large variety of the South Island’s most treasured winemakers and varietals.
For something a little different, one of my favourite accomodations I’ve stayed in this region is the Marlborough Wine Barrel Cabins where you stay in the most beautifully renovated wine barrels with sweeping views over the heart of the wine growing region.
Amazing wine is just one of the many reasons to love New Zealand, for 25 more check out the A to Z of Visiting Aotearoa
How to Finish the Road Trip
Heading out of this region you have two options – North or South. Seeing as we came from the South, we were Northbound on the Interislander Ferry.
Option One: North to Wellington
Leaving the Marlborough and Nelson region heading north is easily done via ferry. You have two options when it comes to companies,Interislander andBluebridge. Both provide on-board facilities for meals and upgrades to cabins.
Bluebridge docks much closer to the centre of Wellington, however Interislander provides a free shuttle service to central station. While Interislander provides an awesome lounge upgrade with free food, drinks and snacks, Bluebridge does offer a sleeper journey. Both services provide sleeping and showering cabins for an additional fee.
We opted for the InterIslander ferry from Picton to Wellington and splurged on the premium plus lounge. It was worth every cent of the $45NZD and we spent the entire short (3.5 hour) journey enjoying comfortable sofas, free WiFi and complimentary buffet-style breakfast, morning tea and coffee/juice/drinks/wine/beer.
Option Two: South to Christchurch and Beyond
If heading the other direction (or simply completing a full loop), then you would exit the region down to Christchurch. Being one of the biggest New Zealand cities, Christchurch has regular flights and bus connections further south. From here it’s super easy to get to Dunedin, Queenstown and Milford Sound. Christchurch Airport is international, so it’s also an easy spot to grab a flight out of the country.
Useful Links Mentioned in This Post
Practical Updates & Info
NZTA Traffic Updates – Get up to date information of traffic and road closures around the South Island before you drive
Canterbury Weather Updates – In-depth and human written forecasts for the Canterbury (South Island) region
Transport in the South Island
Transfer Car hook up with cheap (and even free) car rental returns, where you relocate rental cars back to their home base within a set amount of time. Some even provide free fuel and ferry tickets between the North and South Island.
Naked Bus Super cheap bus fares and bus passes around the entire country – some of their package passes include ferry travel between the North & South Island too.
Kathmandu a prominent store in NZ with branches in almost every city – sells hiking, camping and extreme weather gear. Can be quite pricy but the sales are often excellent.
Bivouac similar to Kathmandu, but stocks different brands (more Osprey, Icebreaker etc)
Trademe this is what Kiwi’s use instead of Ebay. If you’re looking for cheap/second hand gear (or anything, for that matter) this is where you go.
Up until recent years, I’d never visited the United States of America. It was a new and fascinating place which existed mainly for me through television shows and films. The first state I ever visited was Hawaii, followed closely by Florida, California and Colorado. After that, things took an unexpected twist and I found myself visiting some less touristed states: Texas, Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, and Kansas made the list thanks to a long story involving a boyfriend and the circus.
It’s been a few years now since I began visiting and exploring in the US, but it’s taken me until right now to venture into a national park. With my proclivity towards wildlife, forests, and wide open spaces, that came as a surprise to me (and most people) so it was time to set that right. One of the best ways to see the US is by driving state-to-state and taking a road trip, so I got to work planning a day trip driving right through the national park.
We visited Rocky Mountain National Park in the first week of October whilst on vacation in Denver (In my opinion, one of the best cities in the United States so make sure to plan time to see the city as well!) and the colour of the autumn aspen trees was enough alone to make the trip worthwhile.
Timed Entry & Entrance Permit
Rocky Mountain National Park is one of the most visited parks in all of the United States, which means it’s super busy! To enter Rocky Mountain National Park between May 28 – October 11 2021 they are trialing a new timed entry permit, to limit the number of people in the park.
In order to enter, two things are required: a timed entry permit and a park pass / entrance fee. We booked only a week out, so options were limited. However, we were able to get a 1-3pm entrance (once you’ve entered, you can stay as long as you like) for all of the park except for the bear lake road.
Rocky Mountain National Park 5
Rocky Mountain National Park 7
Rocky Mountain National Park 4
Entering from the West, Looking for Moose
I’d love to see a moose in the wild, and so that was the specific creature I sought to spot. The park has so many incredible animals living in it, but many of them are very rare to see (such as mountain lions and black bears), and others only appear mostly in the wintertime (bobcats, snowshoe hares).
To help guide me on what I might be likely to spot, I found this incredibly helpful “Odds Of Seeing Wildlife On A Tour In Rocky Mountain National Park” guide from Yellow Wood Guiding, which is a nature tour company whom we didn’t use this time, but I would like to go with next time we visit the park!
As autumn gets into full swing, moose become less and less likely to find, as opposed to the summer months when they are fairly ubiquitous here. However, autumn is a great time to come and see some Elk and hear their mating bugling, so even if we didn’t find a moose, we were likely to see some elk instead.
At the advice of the internet we decided to enter from the Western side of the park through the Grand Lake Entrance Station, which is the only entrance on the West side of the four possible entrance stations, and explore some of the lakes and wetland areas across that side. Whilst moose are sometimes seen on the Eastern side, they are more often sighted nibbling on willows in the Western lakes and streams.
Often, Moose can be found down around Grand Lake town itself, or in the wet areas near the Kawuneeche Visitor Center – but as the park ranger advised us, during the elk rut the moose often head up to higher ground to keep well out of the way. So in this case, she advised us to try checking around the Colorado River Trailhead, Lake Irene, and the Milner Pass.
Rocky Mountain National Park 3
Forest Fires on the West Side of the Park
Sadly, Colorado saw two of the largest wildfires in state history last year (2020) where nearly 30,000 acres inside the park burned. This meant that the initial drive in from the West began with passing through large areas of burnt-out park, which is a little sad. But definitely not a reason to dissuade anyone from coming in this way! There is still a lot of park & beauty over on the West side of Rocky Mountain National Park.
Driving the Trail Ridge Road up into the Tundra
To get from the Western Grand Lake side of the Park to the Eastern Estes Park side you need to follow the trail ridge road, which is an incredible journey all the way up to the Alpine Visitor Center at 11,796 feet above sea level! This road isn’t open in the winter, as there is too much snow and ice. But when we went during early October, it was an amazing moonscape of rocks and tundras, known as “the land above the trees” you are above the timber line where trees won’t grow.
Trail Ridge Road is the highest road in any national park in the US – I’d never been up this high before, and altitude sickness is a real thing! Here, the alpine tundra starts between 11,000 and 11,500 feet. I didn’t spy any wildlife up here, but you can sometimes find marmots, pika, big-horned sheep and in the summertime, visiting elk.
Where to See Elk in the Fall
The incredibly helpful National Parks App recommended heading down to the Eastern side into Moraine Park and around Upper Beaver Meadows around dusk. So this is where we headed to at 5.30pm. Sure enough, we found elk on the side of the road in three different places. We could hear the incredible sound of the bugling, and saw some impressively large antlers.
I had thought we would need to search a while to see elk, or at least hike a little off the road – but it turns out they are right there, and were very easy to see.
This isn’t my video, but you can see (and hear!) how magnificent & intimidating the elk are in autumn!
Our previous road trip had been such a success, exploring palm fringed beaches on Martinique’s Southern Coastline, that we decided to rent another car any try again. This time, we were to cut through the centre of the island visiting Jardin de Balata, then making our way down across the Atlantic coast of Martinique towards Saint-Marie and the Saint-James Rum Distillery.
Le Morne Rouge is a beautiful part of the island to explore as you head up into Northern Martinique, but also a historic home to the immense disaster of Saint-pierre, where the entire town was destroyed in 1902 by the volcanic eruption of Mount Pelée. Before the devastationg eruption, Saint-Pierre was the cultural capital of Martinique, known as “the Paris of the Caribbean”.
Nowadays, you can instead still see evidence of the disaster & historic remains, and visit the Volcanological Museum (Musée vulcanologique Franck Perret).
Le Lorrain & Le Marigot
As you head around the bend towards the Atlantic coast of Martinique the scenery transforms into sweeping hillsides of banana plantations overlooking the ocean.
This part of the island reminded me a lot of my visit to Kauai, Hawaii and was a whole new side of Martinique our previous road trip didn’t show.
I highly recommend the restaurant Le Point de Vue for excellent Caribbean food and ocean views, I would gladly pass another day here.
Northern Martinique Road Trip Details
From: Fort-de-france To: Sainte-Marie, Martinique
Stopped in at: Jardin de Balata (Fort-de-france), Le Morne Rouge (Sainte-Pierre) Le Lorrain, Le Marigot, Distillerie Saint-James (Saint-Marie)
The small port-side village of Lyttelton, New Zealand is a place close to my heart. It’s where my grandmother lived when I was growing up; it’s a short boat trip away from where my family lives now; and it’s where my partner and I ended up, by chance, renting a house for the first 6 months of our unexpected and extended stay in New Zealand (thanks, pandemic!)
The village feels like a world away, it’s beautiful, and the sense of community is something I adore. Yet it’s a very quick drive through the tunnel to the heart of Christchurch city. It’s kind of the best of both worlds, in many ways. It doesn’t feel at all like the city, Lyttelton. And in fact, before the tunnel was built through the port hills, it really was much more on its own.
Nowadays it has the accessibility of a suburb, with the charm and feel of a small town. Throw in loads of lovely houses, gardens and native birds; and you have quite the undiscovered little haven of a town.
I haven’t always written about New Zealand, but I am extremely proud of where I come from, and after having spent near to two unexpected years in the country, it felt about time to blog about it! So without further adieu, here’s three of my favourite things to do in Lyttelton.
1. Lyttelton Market
Every Sunday it’s time for the most wonderful things about Lyttelton – the weekly farmer’s market. People come from all over the region, as it’s surely one of Canterbury’s best markets. The Main Street of town is closed off to traffic and stalls pop up down the full length. The surrounding restaurants and cafés are bustling with people, and there are usually musicians and street performers. There is excellent produce to be found, locally produced cheese, meets & olive oils but my favourite stall is the bakery right at the end who make one of my favourite foccacia in the world – but you need to get there early as they sell out!
Pizza at Bomba Gelato, Lyttelton
2. Eat, Eat, Eat!
For such a small place, Lyttelton has an abundance of wonderful cafes and restaurants. It was a delight to spend our weekends exploring the different foods and excellent coffee. The Lyttelton Coffee Company has my vote for coffee, Bomba makes some of the best pizza you’ll ever try (and all made by one of the friendliest people in town), and for a few other places to get yourself to make sure to head to Forty Two – the restaurant of a good friend of mine; Super for awesome cocktails and asian inspired food; and Fisherman’s Wharf for fresh seafood right on the water.
–
3. Take the Ferry to Diamond Harbour
Every hour throughout the day (and even then sometimes more frequently) a small little ferry makes the seven minute hop across the harbour to picturesque diamond harbour. An even tinier town, with beautiful views, loads of walks, and a lovely little eatery to sit and enjoy a coffee. This also happens to be where my family are, so I love it for personal reasons, too! But it’s a wonderful trip to make if you want to explore more of the beautiful banks peninsula.
I arrived in Lesvos under the more unusual of conditions, and tourism was the last thing on my mind. Yet, the island is perfectly suited to tourism – and not in an over-done hyper-resorted Mykonos way, either. It’s perfect for an authentic taste of Greek life and a haven of delicious food, kindhearted locals and beautiful beaches.
My life was based in the beautiful port town of Myteline for four weeks, and one of the many things I learned from my experience here is what this little paradise needs is some more tourism. Loads of people have never heard of the island, and of those who have, many only know it because of the refugee crisis is has become synonymous with. But this is not a reason to avoid Lesvos – quite the opposite, in fact.
The island is a true European paradise, and the kindness and hospitality of the people shows just how special this hidden gem is. So please, explore this magical island – drink in the perfect mauve sunsets and sip ouzo at one of the numerous tavernas. Come here to enjoy Greece without the horrendous price tag or nightclub life of the more famous party islands! In my opinion, Lesvos is my favourite Greek Island .. and here’s three reasons why:
1. Historical writers & poets
Lesvos is famously home to the poet Sapphos, who has a permanent home (in the form of a statue) in her namesake Sappho’s Square in central Mytelini.
2. The picturesque small villages & abundant natural beauty
Being Greece’s third largest island, there is so much beauty to explore.The island is home to numerous charming small fishing villages, such as Panagouda, a smattering of castles to explore, and a petrified forest – not to mention an expansive coastline of gorgeous beaches.
3. Food, tavernas & ouzo
Lesvos is known by most Greeks as the place where the best ouzo comes from, more specifically the town of Plomari on the island’s Southern coast.
Clear waters, soft golden sand, scorching summer afternoons slipping lazily into long, dreamy evenings – the Albanian riviera paints a beautiful backdrop for enjoying the delights of the coastline without the crowds and price tag of Italy and France.
Once you figure out the endlessly changing location of the Tirana bus station, it’s fairly simple to make your way down to the sea. It’s also reachable from nearby Greece – both by land or by way of a quick and cheerful ferry ride over from Corfu to Sarandë.
Go, you must go my friends told me when I was living in Greece. We were all volunteers, living amidst an overwhelming humanitarian crisis with so much heart but very little cash. Many had travelled down Europe this direction, passing through the Balkans on their journey down to help out there.
Everyone raved about Albania. Underrated, affordable, kind and welcoming they claimed. It’s not a country I’d thought a lot about, but the recommendations echoed in my mind.
A while later, long after I’d left Greece with my heart in pieces I would make my way back to Europe, but this time it came at the tail end of an overland train journey across Asia, one spanning many months and ending in Ulaanbaatar, where, oddly enough I was able to get my hands on plane tickets from Ulaanbaatar to Tirana, Albania.
All of those encouraging words danced back into my memories as I planned a new adventure after Asia, one where I would catch busses across the Balkans. It would all begin in Albania, this country I’d heard so much of and knew so little about.
Sarandë – Lounging about, gazing out to the Ionion sea
Where is the Albanian Riviera?
Affectionately nicknamed Bregu, the Albanian riveria stretches across Sarandë and Vlorë in the Southwestern coastal region of Albania. In simpler terms, it’s in the lower corner tucked up against the Greek border & the nearby Greek island of Corfu, and with the toe of Italy just across the water.
This region of Albania is pretty accessible – you could catch the bus from Tirana , a ferry from Corfu(a very nearby Greek Island) a ferry from Brindisi(a much further away port of Italy), or busses from some of the bigger cities in neighbouring countries such as Skopje (North Macedonia)
Cute aquamarine breakfast spot on a Ksamil beachSunset dinner enjoying the sunset over Ksamil
In 2018, I decided to give living in one place a try. Through a few last minute change of plans, and my brother already being there, that place ended up being Melbourne, Australia.
As it turns out, I wasn’t ready to stop travelling, and my year in Melbourne was cut short, as I took off bound for the Oaxacan coastlines of Mexico. But the city of Melbourne will always hold a special place in my heart, and it’s a city I feel has so much to offer, and much for me to go back and explore again, and again, and again.
Here’s a quick love-note-list of reasons I love Melbourne ??
Flat Whites
If you’re from Australia or New Zealand, you will already be well familiar with the distinctly antipodean version of coffee – the humble flat white. And, truth be told, if I had been arriving in Melbourne from my home country of New Zealand, this wouldn’t have excited me in the same way.
But, I had not been to New Zealand in a while, and had spent years travelling around Asia and Europe, far from my beloved coffee, and arriving back somewhere that makes these so well was super exciting. I was delighted.
A flat white is like a latte, but with more milk. It’s kind of difficult to describe, but trust me, it’s better.
If you’ve never tried one (or you’ve only tried them outside of NZ and Aus, which doesn’t count) Melbourne is an excellent place to start. It’s practically a sin to butcher a flat white here, so you can get an excellent drink just about anywhere you try.
Long Summer Evenings
Melbourne puts on a stunner of a summers evening, with temperatures (and sunlight) soaring until the late hours. At the peak of summer, it can be hot and sunny until almost 9pm, and gorgeous average highs hovering around 28 Celcius (and soaring up into the 40s from time to time!)
The months I lived in Melbourne were all summer months, so my opinion is a bit bias! Previous trips into the city throughout other times of the year have proven Melbourne is not immune from gross winter weather, either. But the summer evenings are just so lovely it makes up for it.
Yarraville
Yarraville is an inner suburb to the West of the city centre, and it’s pretty fabulous – not just because it’s where I found my apartment and based myself (also that!), but because it is full of trendy cafes, leafy parks, and is off the well-trodden tourist trail of the city – whilst still being only a couple of quick train stops from the heart of very Central Melbourne.
It’s a beautiful neighbourhood to wander about on a sunny day, and has a strong sense of community for such a small, central neighbourhood. And for its size, the variety of excellent restaurants and cafes is impressive. The art deco Sun Theatre is a great spot to watch a film in a gorgeous, traditionally restored & maintained 1930’s theatre, and one of my favourite brunch spots in all of Melbourne is here: Dad and Dave’s Cafe
Love craft beer? Melbourne’s got you covered. I did not, in fact, love craft beers. At best, I liked them from time to time. But Melbourne changed that for me, and introduced me to a whole new world of delicious drinks. There’s no shortage of trendy craft breweries to discover, and maybe if you’re like me your whole attitude towards beer might shift!
But that’s not even the best part of the Melbourne beer scene, nope – the coolest part is just how many rooftop bars there are tucked away in the city. So many unsuspecting doorways leading up narrow stairs to super cool rooftop bars with awesome views. They are honest just about everywhere, and I continued to be surprised
Melbourne Street Art
Melbourne City Street Art, photo by Anna McPhee
The Melbourne Train Stations
I grew up in a city without trains, so funky train stations and railway travel through the heart of a city will always be a novelty for me. But some of the train stations in Melbourne are simply charming.
My favourites were the Yarraville station, for something that felt like stepping back in time to a tiny little rural station (yet mere stops from the heart of downtown) and Flinders Street Station for being so gorgeous and magnificent, in exactly the opposite way from Yarraville!
The Greek Precinct
Many people don’t realise that Melbourne is the city with the largest Greek population, outside of Greece. In fact, I hadn’t known this either until I read Afternoons in Ithaka. But it’s true!
Greece is a country I am rather enamoured with, and one that will always mean a lot to me. So it was wonderful to find that Melbourne city has a busting Greek precinct full of typical Greek restaurants, where I could catch up on all my favourite Greek foods and goods. They even have a website that provides more information about this little central city gem.
Melbourne has good food running through its veins, and it would be impossible to provide a list of the best cafes here because there are just so many (but here’s one of many lists, if you need one!) but safe to say, my inner foodie was in love. It’s an especially great place to go out and find brunch
Tram Life
Melbourne currently has the largest urban tram network operating in the world, which is pretty impressive. For me, getting around by tram feels like a rare public transport treasure and reminds me of some other very cool cities, such as San Fransisco and Lisbon. Exploring the many different tram stops (over 1700 of them!) is something I rather love about Melbourne.
Fitzroy
Fitzroy is another of my favourite Central Melbourne suburbs, a hub of trendy cafes, galleries and bookstores with a famously bohemian vibe. It’s also where you’ll find my favourite little perfumery, Lore Perfumery.
The majestic Yarra river flows through the heart of downtown Melbourne, and is an iconic feature of any cityscape snap. The beautiful river is important for locals, tourists, and even holds spiritual significance for Aboriginal communities. It’s a pleasure to wander the banks, and explore the city along the Yarra.
Titirangi is one of my favourite corners of the world, certainly my pick for undiscovered North Island towns. It’s underrated, under-explored, and truly magical. Technically this is a suburb, rather than its own town, but as soon as you arrive you instantly feel a million miles away.
Tucked away in the Southern entrance to the Wait?kere Ranges, to the West of Auckland; Titirangi means either long streaks of cloud in the sky or fringe of heaven in M?ori, depending on how you interpret it. Either way, the land’s ancestors knew a special place when they found it. Fringed with swaths of deep, green, native New Zealand bush; instead of traffic, the soundtrack is bellbirds, tuis and gently lapping waves. This is a far, far, cry from the Auckland most people imagine.
I lived in Titirangi for a few years, a number of years ago. It’s made a lasting imprint, and one of my favourite things is the character of the village; Think organic farmers markets, charming café culture & small, locally owned eateries. Titirangi is a haven for creatives, and is home to many artists, musicians, galleries, and theatre – for a long time my favourite Auckland suburb (err, let’s go with village) upheld a reputation as a bohemian hub.
Titirangi is the undiscovered jewel in Auckland’s crown, and I’m always eager to recommend it to any visitors I hear badmouthing Auckland city!
2. | Waikanae
Recommended by Jub at Chur New Zealand
Having grown up in Waikanae, I’ve come to appreciate my visits to see family. What used to be a town people would rarely visit as a tourist, is now an increasingly popular day trip destination from Wellington.
There are plenty of amazing walks in Waikanae with options for everyone. And being located on the west coast, the sunsets are amazing, even more so in the winter when the sun dips behind Kapiti Island.
Head to the beach in the evening for a stroll, and enjoy the sunset before heading to one of the restaurants near the beach.
This brings us to the food and drink scene in Waikanae. It has moved on from fish and chips being the only options. There’s Los Locos, The Front Room, and the Long Room Cafe, all near the beachfront. And grab one of the amazing pies from Olde Beach Bakery n the morning!
At the village, there’s the health-oriented Sunday Cantina and the Salt and Wood Collective serving locally brewed craft beer. Two of my favourites
Want more ideas you can include in your visit to Waikanae?
Visit Nga Manu Nature Reserve
Take a birding tour around the estuary
Swim in Waikanae River
Browse Mahara Gallery
Play 18 holes at Waikanae Golf Course
In my early 20’s I would’ve said that Waikanae is boring. 10+ years later, and I’ve grown to appreciate how great Waikanae is for a small town in NZ. The food options are better than ever, the trails are well maintained, and who doesn’t love a town close to both the beach and mountains (the Tararua’s aren’t far away).
3. | Waitomo King Country
Waitomo is a tiny little rural village which normally packs a massive tourism punch. Before pandemic times, the tiny town of Waitomo near the center of the North Island was a constant stream of tour busses thanks to the magnificent Waitomo Glowworm caves. At the time of publishing this (March 20201) New Zealand is still mostly shut off from tourism, and the delightful town of Waitomo is struggling!
It’s a place well worth the visit – nestled amongst lush rolling countryside, dotted with sheep (or adorable little lambs, if you visit in the spring) and full of gorgeous forest trails, walkways, glowworm grottos, waterfalls and a sprinkling of delightful eateries.
What to do in Waitomo?
HuHu Cafe is excellent, I would eat there again (and again, and again)
Make sure to explore the nearby Ruakuri Bushwalk, for an hour-long loop trail of bridges, caves, glow-worms, and waterfalls.
Go Zip Lining at the Waitomo Caves Zipline Park
Discover the Opapaka P? Walk for some bird watching
Go blackwater rafting through caves of twinkling glowworms
4. | Matakana Auckland
Recommended byCaroline at CK Travels
Picturesque Matakana Village is one of the best day trips from Auckland and located just 40 minutes north of the city.
Matakana Village itself is quite small and has a handful of pubs, art and craft galleries and an arthouse cinema. Most people head here though to visit the weekend Matakana Village Farmers Market, located next to the river. The market is a foodies paradise and sells a wide array of delicious local organic produce and street food including amazing oyster platters andfresh paua fritters.
The town is also known for its award-winning vineyards and there is a Matakana Wine Trail where you can visit 15 different boutique wineries set amongst the rolling hills. Many of them have cellar doors where you can enjoy wine tasting, and some have stylish restaurants where you eat a gourmet lunch with a beautiful view of the vines (Plume Winery has a lovely outdoor dining area). You can also join a small group tour to take you to some of these wineries.
The nearby coast is also very popular and has pretty white sandy beaches where you can surf, snorkel, dive, swim, kayak or paddleboard, and nearby there are many scenic walking and cycling tracks.
Home to one of New Zealand’s most beloved beaches, Ohope is a small, almost single road settlement east of Whakatane in the North Island. It’s an excellent place to escape in nature, partake in water sports such as surfing or windsurfing, go hiking, or spot wildlife in their natural habitat.
Life here is in the slow lane, and it’s especially great for an easy family holiday. Rent a holiday home and spend your days building sandcastles, swimming, and playing ball games on the large sandy beach. There are also two great playgrounds situated on the grassy banks next door, where children will be entertained for hours. Adult visitors can browse the small selection of boutiques, and enjoy a leisurely brunch at the popular Moxi cafe. If you’re up for a more strenuous adventure, hit the trails in the Ohope Scenic Reserve, or the Kohi Point Scenic Reserve – both will afford you unbeatable views over the small town, coastal area, and both Whale and White Island off in the distance.
Ohope is one of those places that wins you over with its relaxed way of life, and you’ll want to keep on returning for years to come!
Rawene
Recommended by Roxanne of Faraway Worlds
Travelling along the rugged coastline of the west coast of Northland, I was pleasantly enchanted by scenic Hokianga, with its ancient forest and wild beaches. We had passed other towns along the way, but Rawene was a surprise – a jewel in a jagged landscape. First settled in the early 19th century, Rawene is New Zealand’s third oldest European settlement. Set on the water, the small town has a number of colourful, historic buildings, art galleries and craft shops, which are slightly incongruous with its surroundings.
It’s a quiet spot – Hokianga doesn’t get anywhere near the number of visitors of the east coast – but that just adds to its calm. Take a leisurely walk through the village, gaze out over the water, and stop for lunch in a local café. While you’re there, be sure to take a peek in Clendon House. Built in the 1860s, it was the home of an early New Zealand trader and is beautifully preserved.
Then catch the ferry to Kohukohu, the largest town in Hokianga, and the isolated north. Kohukohu is worth a visit, but it can’t compete with beautiful Rawene, with its quirky storefronts, interesting murals and historic buildings. However, it’s the streets and people of Rawene that will catch and keep your attention, unassuming but somehow managing to embody the wild and beautiful spirit of the Hokianga region.
Kerikeri
Recommended by Cassie of Cassiethehag.com
Kerikeri is a small town in the Northland area of New Zealand and is famous for its important history and natural attractions. Located in the subline coastal region appropriately named ‘the Bay of Islands’, it makes an attractive stop for road trippers, though I visited as a Summer weekend away from Auckland.
Once home to Maori chief Hongi Hika, you can still visit his old settlement, which was strategically located along the Kerikeri River, which is now also popular for local hikes. New Zealand’s second mission station (which now remains here as New Zealand’s oldest building) is in the heart of the town. These buildings are the Stone Store and Kent House, which you can still visit today.
From these buildings, a walk to Rainbow Falls is a must-do in my opinion. But one of the best things to do in Kerikeri is visiting the wonderful nearby Northland beaches. Matauri Bay and Tauranga Bay are amazing beach stops for Summer, and the drive from Kerikeri has stunning elevated views too. For families, you may also enjoy visiting the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway.
Finally, don’t miss a visit to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds in nearby Paihia – this is where the Treaty of Waitangi was first signed, thus forming New Zealand as we know it today.
Hahei
Recommended by Trisha and Modi from Try Wandering More
Hahei is a small beachside village located in the Coromandel Peninsula in New Zealand’s North Island, just a 2.5-hour drive from Auckland. We chose to stay here only because of its proximity to popular attractions. We didn’t expect much from the village before we got here. However, we were happily surprised by this charming settlement which has only two restaurants, a brewery, an ice cream cum pizza parlour, a general store, a gift shop, a gas station, and some holiday-related businesses.
Hahei’s low population combined with immense greenery lends to the serenity of the village. Yet, Hahei has a happy vibe with its colourful flowers, chirping birds and nosy seagulls. The beach too is a beautiful white-sand one with calm waters – perfect for a relaxing swim. Our time at the village was made even more memorable by our lovely B&B and friendly hosts.
That being said, Hahei is not just about the village but also about the incredible vistas around the area. It has spectacular seaside walks to the famous Cathedral Cove and to Te Pare Point. One can swim, snorkel, boat, kayak, fish and dive to explore the Te Whanganui-A-Hei marine reserve here. Hot water beach, near Hahei, is a fascinating one, where you can dig your own spa pool at low tide.
We would love to return for the delicious food, the relaxing walks, the picturesque sceneries and the many things to do that we missed.
Waiheke
Recommended by Angie from Where Angie Wanders
Waiheke, a quick ferry ride across the water from Auckland, is one of the most beautiful islands in all of New Zealand. This tiny island with only 10,000 residents, is a popular day-trip destination for both Aucklanders and tourists to the North Island, thanks to the 30-plus boutique wineries that are scattered around its countryside. I headed to the island to experience wine tasting in Waiheke’s vineyards and loved every minute of my trip.
From the wine and the food to the beautiful settings of the wineries it was perfect from start to finish. In the daytime the views from Waiheke island across the Hauraki Gulf are sensational, and in the evening as the sun sets, you feel like you are in a magical place – especially if you happen to have a glass of New Zealand sauvignon blanc in your hand.
But it’s not just wine that attracts visitors to Waiheke. Other activities include ziplining across the vineyards to cycling around the island with stops for wine tasting on route! Walkers are also catered for with several hiking trails stretching across the countryside. Waiheke also has some fantastic sandy beaches, my favourite being Oneroa lined with indigenous pohutukawa trees perfect for offering shade on hot summer days.
