Tag: Travel Planning

Good travel doesn’t happen by accident. These posts dive into the practical side of nomadic life—from choosing destinations to managing logistics to making the most of limited time in incredible places. I share what I’ve learned about traveling thoughtfully, sustainably, and with purpose.

  • A to Z of Visiting Aotearoa

    There is an over abundance of information on New Zealand out there, and for good reason – it’s a super popular tourism spot and people want more information before planning their trip!

    But today, I promise you – this is not an itinerary nor is it a packing list.

    This is an encyclopaedia of sorts, an alphabet of things that a local (me!) thinks people should know to better understand not just the tourist sites, but also the culture of this beautiful country.

    So read on, for an A to Z of things you probably never realised you needed to know about beautiful Aotearoa.

    A is for Aotearoa

    Aotearoa is the M?ori name for New Zealand, and the most popular direct translation for the word means land of the long white cloud which refers to the cloud formations Polynesian navigators used to find the country to begin with.

    You will find this name used frequently when referring to the country also known as New Zealand.

    How to Pronounce Aotearoa? If you’re unsure how to pronounce this, watch the video below:

    B is for Beaches

    New Zealand is made up of many different islands, which means we are a nation with beaches just about every where you look! No matter where you are in the country, it’s never too far to drive to find a beach.

    There’s a beach for just about everyone:

    Rugged, rough, rain-forested beaches: Visit the West Coast of the South Island

    Soft, golden sand & clear water beaches: Check out the Tasman region in the top of the South Island, the gorgeous Coromandel region, and the Bay of Islands on the east coast of the North Island.

    Excellent Surfing Beaches: Get yourself to Raglan, on the east coast, south of Auckland

    Magical, Wild, Prehistoric Beaches with Black Sand and Waterfalls: Visit any of the beaches in the Waitakere ranges, West of Auckland

    Scenic Fjords and Mountainous Backdrops: Get thee down to the far south of the South Island.

    C is for The Coromandel

    Clear waters, hidden beaches, lush forests full of glowworms and waterfalls – The Coromandel is a magical region in the North Island, a few hours drive from Auckland.

    When people ask me my favourite region of New Zealand, or where they should visit, The Coromandel is usually the first answer out of my mouth.

    It’s difficult in a land famed for scenery and nature to explain that these are the same reasons The Coromandel is so special. But, there is something wondrous about it that’s hard to describe.

    Cathedral Cove, Coromandel, New Zealand
    Cathedral Cove. Photo by Maddison Fantillo on Unsplash

    Some of the best things to see & do on the Coromandel are:

    • Hot Water Beach is one of New Zealand’s most unique and famous beaches – come prepared with a shovel and dig yourself a hot pool in the sands. Sounds bizarre, but it’s pretty incredible!
    • On the topic of beaches, Cathedral Cove involves a bit of a walk but is well worth it to see the iconic rock archway and beautiful beach that lies ahead.
    • For the most incredible day trip to a thermal resort, try the magical Lost Spring

    D is for Dunedin

    Dunedin is an underrated town in the South Island of New Zealand. Primarily known by locals as a student town, Dunedin is home to the University of Otago.

    It is also interesting for a bunch of other reasons

    E is for Earthquakes

    Living on the Pacific Ring of Fire lends us to all kinds of geological activity, and unfortunately natural disasters too.

    Most recently, my own hometown of Christchurch was taken down by a monstrous magnitude 7.2 earthquake, followed by a significant number of large and damaging aftershocks. 10 years on and the city is still rebuilding and recovering.

    If you’re visiting Christchurch, the Quake City earthquake museum is the best way to get an insight into those difficult days. It’s a thoughtful and informative exhibit that anyone wanting to understand the forces that have shaped my city should visit and learn from.

    When visiting New Zealand, it’s a great idea to brush up on earthquake safety so you feel comfortable knowing what to do in case you get caught in one. This is a great earthquake safety resource.

    F is for Fox Glacier

    Love Glaciers? New Zealand is a great place to visit some magnificent ones. The Fox Glacier is one of the most accessible glaciers in the world, so you don’t need special mountaineering equipment or a heli-trip to see it (although those are possible, too)

    Instead, it’s an easy walk from the Fox Glacier village nearby.

    Fox Glacier, Photo by James Lee on Unsplash

    G is for Giant Snails

    Yep, I said it. Giant Snails. I’ll give you a moment to process that before we move on.

    Here in New Zealand we don’t have many creatures that are dangerous, or poisonous, or venomous. Instead, we have the magnificent Powelliphanta, or giant snail.

    Found only in New Zealand, the Powelliphanta is a large, carnivorous snail that at its largest grows up to 9cm / 90g (so certainly not large enough to harm a human!)

    If you want to learn more about these incredible invertebrates, the New Zealand Department of Conservation Page on Powelliphanta is a great starting point.

    H is for Hotdogs, Burgers, and Fish & Chips

    Arriving into New Zealand, you may find yourself bewildered by some of our culinary terminology.

    Fries, Chips, Crisps – all of these are called chips to us. I hear it gets confusing sometimes, but I promise it’s all about context.

    Hotdogs + Corn Dogs = both hotdogs here (sometimes we we will call the variety in a bun an American hotdog for good measure) and what Americans call a corndog, is generally the kind of hotdog you’d find at a fish and chip shop.

    Which brings me to my next point: Fish and Chips. A Kiwi staple, and you can get them in any neighbourhood, country wide. Watties Tomato Sauce is a must-have accompaniment (yep, we call ketchup sauce here)

    And finally, any self respecting NZ burger comes with a slice of beetroot & a fried egg inside. It’s not weird, it’s delicious.

    I is for island, the North Island, the South Island, and around 600 more!

    New Zealand is not just a two or three island nation, despite what you may have been told! Actually, Aotearoa is made up of over 600 different islands!

    Most of them are not inhabited (by humans, anyhow!)

    Some of them are used as wildlife refuges for our native birdlife that need a little predator-free support, and some of them are even Volcanoes that you can explore, like the magnificent Rangitoto Island just off the coast of Auckland.

    While it’s true we have three primary islands: The North Island (Te Ika-a-M?ui) , The South Island (Te Waipounamu), and Stewart Island (Rakiura); we do also have a number of other human inhabited islands:

    The Other Islands of Aotearoa

    • Waiheke Island, just off the coast of Auckland City is a vibrant hub of vineyards , gorgeous beaches and a population over 9000 people.
    • Great Barrier Island (Aotea) is a little further afield, but still populated with around 850 permanent residents, liveable & beautiful to visit.
    • The Chatham Islands (R?kohu meaning Misty Sun in Moriori, or Wharekauri in M?ori) are not one island, but an archipelago with a resident population of over 600 people, an airport, and their own timezone.
    • The Marlborough Sounds are made up of a number of islands, including two inhabited ones: D’Urville Island (Rangitoto ki te Tonga) and Arapaoa Island.
    • Matakana Island in the Bay of Plenty is home to thousands of acres of farm, orchards, and native forests as well as around 225 people
    • Raoul Island in the Kermadec Island group is historically highly volcanic, and difficult to reach, yet still is home for to a government meteorological and radio station as well as a hostel for Department of Conservation (DOC) officers and volunteers who come to the island.
    • Kawau Island is not far from Auckland in the Hauraki Gulf, and although pretty small, is home to around 81 people.
    • Motiti Island (M?t?t?) is Northeast of Tauranga in the Bay of Plenty, and is made up of around 18 homes and an abundance of Avocado plantations.

    J is for Jacinda and the New Zealand government

    At the time of writing this, New Zealand is being led by a Labour government and the Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern – New Zealand’s youngest female Prime Minister being elected as Prime Minister at age 37, and also our first prime minister to be pregnant in office.. Most of us are pretty proud of her around here!

    New Zealand is also pretty good with women’s rights & issues:

    • Jacinda is the third female to lead our country. We have also had two previous female prime ministers: Helen Clark + Jenny Shipley, with Jenny Shipley leading NZ back in 1997
    • New Zealand became the first nation in the world in which all women had the right to vote in parliamentary elections
    • Back in 1999 Georgina Beyer became the first transgender woman elected to parliament

    K is for Kakapos, Keas & Kiwis

    What Aotearoa lacks in large, land mammals it more than makes up in unique birdlife. The kakapo, kea and kiwi are three exceptions of native New Zealand birds found only here in Aoteroa

    The Kiwi is what we are most famous for, but did you know we have 5 different types of Kiwi still alive today? They are in varying levels of endangers, and most New Zealanders may have only ever seen a Kiwi in a wildlife sanctuary as they are rare, shy, and difficult to spot in the wild.

    Kakapos are a large, green, flightless parrot that is even more endangered and rare than the kiwi. In the mid nineties, we got down to as few as 50 kakapos known to be alive. Significant conservation efforts have gone into protecting the species, and thanks to homing them on predator free small islands managed by the department of conservation we are beginning to see more of these thriving.

    Keas are ubiquitous, easy to find, and most definitely have the ability to fly – so these cheeky green parrots don’t share so much in common with the kakapo or the kiwi! But they are one of my favourite birds and are famous for hanging out in alpine passes and ski field parking lots and using their strong, pointy beaks to tear apart the cars of unsuspecting visitors.

    L is for our Language: Sign, M?ori & New Zealand English

    I’ve been asked (more than once) what language we speak here in New Zealand. The simplest answer would be English. This is the language that you will find spoken right across the country, with street signs and books and television shows primarily shown in.

    However, New Zealand actually has 3 official languages :

    • New Zealand English
    • Te Reo (M?ori Language)
    • New Zealand Sign Language

    All three have special legal status in the country, and this means that  People have the right to speak Te Reo M?ori or New Zealand Sign Language in any legal proceedings. Which I think is pretty great.

    M is for Matariki, the M?ori New Year.

    In M?ori culture, the new year is celebrated in accordance with the stars. Matariki is a star cluster appearing through the mid winter months, in the early morning sky. When Matriki rises in the Northeast of the sky (this happens in the month of Pipiri, June-July in Aotearoa) the M?ori lunar calendar begins.

    During Matariki, events take place across the country. People will gather to remember & honour their ancestors, play music, sing, tell stories and share food together.

    For more information on Matariki, including the current year’s dates, the best stargazing spots in NZ, guides to Matariki events and information on each of the Matariki stars, check out this guide from 100% pure New Zealand

    N is for Native New Zealand Forests

    We are pretty proud of our forests and our trees, and for good reason – around 38% of the land in Aotearoa is covered in forest, with 8 million hectares of this forest being native forest.

    Like birds, New Zealand has a lot of different native plant species that are considered unique, or special to us, and our native forests are generally one of two types:

    • Beech forests, which are made up of five different species of southern beech tree
    • Podocarp tree forests, which include kahikatea, miro, t?tara, mata?, and rimu trees

    It’s thanks to our native trees & ferns that wandering around New Zealand has that distinct Lord of the Rings, or Fairyland-esque feel to it.

    Hokitika Gorge, Kokatahi, | Photo by Tyler Lastovich on Unsplash

    O is for Okarito, Waipoua Forest and Stewart Island – places to spot wild kiwis in Aotearoa

    It’s true – spotting a kiwi bird is pretty rare! But it’s certainly not impossible. If you know where to look, there are a small selection of guided tours that will help you spot a wild NZ kiwi for real and become one of the lucky ones who gets to see the national symbol of Aotearoa.

    • Okarito – nestled away in the wild rainforests of the South Island’s West Coast, Okarito is a small town not too far from Franz Joseph. Okarito Kiwi Tours take small tours deep into kiwi territory to (if you’re lucky) spot wild kiwis, or at least hear their calls at night.
    • Waipoua Forest – up the other end of the country, in Northland at the top of the North Island is the forest sanctuary of Waipoua forest. Full of giant, ancient kauri trees you can also sometimes spot kiwis in this sub-tropical rainforest.
    • Stewart Island – For a really good chance of spotting a wild Kiwi, Steward Island is the place to go. The Wild Kiwi Encounter takes you on a cruise across Paterson Inlet to Little Glory Cove, where you can visit a secluded beach and spot kiwis.

    P is for Pinot Noir

    Here in New Zealand we produce some stunningly good wines. The most famous is undoubtedly Pinot Noir from Central Otago.

    If you’re a fan of wine, then exploring our different wine regions is a great way to explore Aotearoa! You can see a guide to the wine regions of New Zealand at the New Zealand Wine site

    I also recommend trying a wine tour! Whether you want to tour a small wine growing island (Waiheke has incredible wineries aplenty to discover) or cycle around central Otago on the wine trail, there are so many excellent and interesting wine tours in New Zealand. Check out Culture Trip’s Best Wine Tours in New Zealand for inspiration

    Marlborough Vineyards in Autumn by Anna | Anna Meanders

    Q is for Queenstown

    Arguable one of New Zealand’s most well known cities, Queenstown is the capital of adventure tourism, skiing + snowboarding, and the infamous FergBurger.

    Surrounded by some of the country’s most spectacular scenery, lakes, mountains, vineyards and adventure sports, it’s well worth a trip if you’re visiting New Zealand.

    Thanks to the country lockdown in 2020, I was able to visit Queenstown with out all the tourists (which never happens!) and discovered for myself how truly beautiful this city is.

    R is for Road Trip across New Zealand

    There is no better way to explore Aotearoa than a good ‘ol fashioned road trip. Here in New Zealand we have excellent roads, lots of beautiful places to stop, and a great road trip culture.

    Unlike Australia or the United States, our country is a much more manageable size and you can see it all in less time!

    Just don’t forget that we drive on the left here

    Not sure where to go? Try one of these itineraries:

    S is for Sheep (it’s true, we have plenty!)

    You’ve probably heard the rumours – more sheep than people. Well, that is true – but it’s not as true as it used to be.

    As of 2019, Sheep outnumber people 5 to 1 which is still certainly more sheep than people, but nothing compared to the 1980’s where we had as many as 22 sheep for each one person!

    But driving around New Zealand you will definitely see plenty of sheep, and lots of great wool products too.

    I’m a big fan of NZ superfine merino, and love using Icebreaker clothes for my travels as the merino is cool in the summer, warm in the winter, doesn’t hold odour, doesn’t wrinkle, and is all round an excellent fabric for travelwear.

    T is for Thermal reserves & Hot springs

    Personally, I’m a touch obsessed with Maruia Springs, found in the gorgeous Maruia Valley a few hours outside of Christchurch, it’s one of my favourites.

    I can’t get enough of time spent relaxing in the outdoor onsen styled rock pools, soaking up the minerals and listening to the birds in the forest and the river streaming by.

    But New Zealand has a multitude of different natural hot pools, for all different styles, budgets, and occasions. Some of the best (other than Maruia, of course) include:

    Maruia Spring Hot Pools by Anna | Anna Meanders

    U is for UV rays & Sunburns

    Even though the summer temperatures don’t get as high as other parts of the world, our UV strength is super high, and just how quickly people sunburn here catches many a visitor off guard.

    To put it into perspective, our UV rating in the summer is frequently around 12, but it can exceed 13 in the far North which is considered extreme. As an approximate guide, a UV Index of corresponds to a burn time of around the same amount of minutes – so you will burn in around 12 minutes on a typical Kiwi summer day!

    It’s important to wear a good sunscreen, and reapply it frequently (and after any time in the water) as well as sunglasses and a good hat if you’re out and about here in the summer months.

    V is for Volcanoes

    New Zealand is exceptionally volcanic, and you can see a list of the different volcanoes here. Just in the Auckland volcanic field alone there are over 50 volcanoes, which dot around the landscape of the city, mostly dormant and providing grassy hills for picnics and jogging.

    There are also a number of active volcanoes in the country, currently the most notorious is the Whakaari / White Island due to a recent eruption killing 21 and injuring a further 26 visitors to the volcanic island

    All of the volcanic activity makes New Zealand a great spot for researching, and recently Scientists here have invented a new volcano warning system that looks really promising for preventing future disaster.

    W is for Waitomo Glow Worm Caves

    Beloved by all tourists are the Waitomo glow worm caves . If you’re looking for a magical, otherworldly experience this one tops the list.

    You can take a guided walk through the Ruakuri and Aranui Caves, a magical boat ride on the cave canals of the Waitomo Glow Worm cave, or float through the magical starlit grotto on an innertube (known as blackwater rafting) through the black labyrinth – these caves are massive, wondrous, and truly spectacular.

    X is for Xenoliths & Geology

    Thanks to the significantly volcanic history of Aotearoa, laced with earthquakes and geothermal activity, it is a great place to explore for geology buffs out there.

    There are a number of great museums in the country to discover more:

    Y is for Yams and K?mara

    We need to talk about yams. What you call yams, are not what we call yams.

    Confused yet? Good. Let me add another layer to this – what you call yams, we call k?mara and they come in all shades of purples, blues, oranges and blacks.

    What we call yams are actually thumb sized & shaped, and are also known as South American Oca. They are very delicious and I highly recommend trying them roasted for the best New Zealand yam experience.

    • New Zealand Yams
    • New Zealand Yams
    New Zealand Yams (left) and New Zealand Yams amongst other roasting vegetables (right)

    Z is for Zealand

    The name New Zealand comes from the Dutch ‘Nieuw Zeeland’, this is the name that was given to us by a Dutch mapmaker – why Dutch? That’s a great question.

    As it turns out, The first European to arrive on New Zealand shores was an explorer by the name of Abel Tasman. He was Dutch, and thus how the Europeans labelled the country as New Zealand on their maps.

    If you were wondering, the original Zealand, or Zeeland it is the westernmost (and the least populous) province of the Netherlands.

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  • Wats & Waterfalls: A Weekend Road Trip from Chiang Mai

    The year was twenty-fifteen, I was an eager new explorer having recently discovered the digital nomad life and set out on a one way, endless journey across Southeast Asia. Chiang Mai had become my home base, and I was eager to explore the region.

    It was the idea of leaving without a plan, I think that was the most exciting part. I had spent my first month traveling full of adventure and excitement, booking budget rooms on a whim & deciding on a day-by-day basis how long to stay before it was time to move on.

    However, Since arriving in Chiang Mai and renting monthly apartments, life had become less unpredictable. I ached a little for the constant whirlwind of unplanned travel, and got itchy feet for an adventure.

    Road Trip Chiang Mai
    Rural roads north of Chiang Mai

    Renting a car in Chiang Mai & driving in Thailand

    Prior to coming to Asia, I had never imagined renting a car here, images of Bangkok traffic jams filled my mind. Yet, somehow in the glow of life aboard, things eased up, knowing the roads and the culture a little better made driving a little less intimidating and a opened up more possibilities.

    Yet, I was wary.

    I’d not yet been scammed, stolen from or seriously ripped off in my three months in Thailand so far, but the stories of vehicle rental scams still lingered in my mind. We were cautious to ask around and research before choosing a car rental service, which really paid off.

    We were pointed in the direction of a company called Budget Catcher. Small, locally owned and friendly with fantastic prices and great service. The rental car was in excellent condition, came with full premium insurance and only cost us 799 Baht per day with a 3000 baht deposit (this was in 2015, mind you – I’m sure prices are different now!)

    I can’t compliment Budget Catcher enough, everything was smooth & helpful and with absolutely no issues around getting our deposit back at the end.

    Driving in Thailand is no-where near as bad as I imagined (not that I was the driver on this occasion, but I certainly observed) although every time you settle into the routine something bizarre and totally Thailand happens to catch you off guard again. Things like motorbikes whipping past without warning, songthaews pulling out into the wrong lane on a blind corner indicating you to undertake them and cars traveling the wrong way down four-lane super-highways.

    Thailand Road Trip
    Beautiful Countryside All Around

    Brunch stop in Mae Rim, on the outskirts of Chiang Mai

    Whilst busy romanticising the town of Mae Rim, I’d imagined the quaintest of small village, sumptuous local northern Thai food and wood carvers sitting roadside peddling intricately designed furniture made from local teak.

    Oh, how wrong could I be.

    Mae Rim is essentially a suburb of Chiang Mai and a good indication you are headed out of town, this part of town is just made for tour busses. Giant tour busses that shuttle hoards of visitors over to the nearby attractions such as tiger kingdom and the elephant camps.

    The road is a busy highway and there are very few cafes or places worth stopping on the main stretch. In the end, brunch was found at See Pak Restaurant , tucked away just off the main stretch, a focus on American food (But also some good Thai to be had) with great atmosphere and good food.

    Lunch under Doi Chiang Dao

    The industrial buildings and run-down abandoned store fronts thinned out, and all remnants of the city faded into the background as we spent the next hour or so venturing towards the Chiang Dao caves. Houses gave way to rice paddies, dense jungle and farmland as we eased our way up into the mountain ranges of northern Chiang Mai.

    The air was a little cooler up here, but still smokey from the nearby residents burning piles of reeds, as well as the far-off hill tribes that burn parts of the forest supposedly encouraging the growth of a rare and profitable mushroom.

    The ‘Burning Season’ is unfortunately a yearly event for northern Thailand, as well as parts of Myanmar and Laos, driving many expats and tourists south to other parts of the country from February until April.

    Heading down a particularly scenic stretch of road we stopped in at a local restaurant for lunch. It had an impressive amount of landscaping, and a large tranquil pond with a small jetty jutting out. Manicured gardens, colourful flowers and intricate sculptures surrounded the jungle-like dining area where we sat & devoured fish with herbs and lime sauce.

    Ambling back out to the car, full and satisfied with the delicious meal and such gorgeous natural settings, it was time to continue the journey up to the Chiang Dao caves.

    Steamed fish near Chiang Mai
    Thai Style Whole Fish Served up with loads of spices, garlic & salad
    Lunch in Doi Chiang Dao
    Beautiful dining experience outside of Doi Chiang Dao

    Exploring the Chiang Dao caves

    Entering the Chiang Dao cave began with a walk through a tiny, picturesque mountain village dotted with cute little coffee shops and vendors selling fresh, locally produced coffee.

    A huge golden entrance archway loomed over head as we admired the incredible scenery.

    Orange-robed monks (a familiar sight in Thailand) meandered through pathways and gardens to intricately designed buildings and temples, woman sat in a covered pavilion weaving baskets with their hands.

    The only thing separating us from a large, stone staircase heading into the mountain now was a bridge passing over the temple’s pond, with fat orange Koi Carp and gigantic catfish swimming around peacefully as a small green turtle floated over top.

    Ponds outside Coffee Shop Outside Chiang Dao Caves
    Magnificent koi ponds at the entrance to the Chiang Dao caves

    Heading up and then down into the cave was similarly film-worthy. Buddhas carved into the stone walls and shrines on the floor. We soon met our guide who carried a lantern to guide our way as we descended into a deep and dark cave full of ancient buddhist treasures.

    The air was thick and humid, much warmer than the air we had left behind outside.

    Huge limestone formations hung all around we were led through areas the height of a football stadium, and tunnels so small we needed to crawl through. Throughout the journey, different limestone formations had been named by the locals and decorated with ribbons to honour them, we passed many different shapes – families of frogs, birds and a large formation in the shape of an elephant lung.

    Just the fact that wildlife existed in a cave initially surprised me, the environment was different than I pictured and clearly more conductive to living things. The first living thing I encountered was one of the largest spiders I have ever seen; much more pleasing to me were all the small black bats hanging from the ceiling of the cave further in.

    The Chiang Dao cave was a wondrous visit.

    Coffee Shop Outside Chiang Dao Caves
    Adorable Coffee Shop Outside Chiang Dao Caves

    A detour to Pai for the night

    We left Chiang Dao caves in high spirits, and with itchy feet to see more of this part of the country. In an overly optimistic moment we grossly underestimated the time and effort it would take to reach the town of Pai, and booked ourselves in a room there for the night.

    Many of the five hours that followed involved me relaxing solo at an isolated, rural, roadside gas station as the sun set while my partner in crime ventured off in search of the nearest ATM to pay for the gas we’d pumped, at the gas station who only took cash.

    Once that debacle came to completion, we moved on to a very tumultuous ascent into the steep, windy and dark roads that lead to Pai.

    It was months later before I learned most visitors just take the small plane over, rather than risk these treacherous roads.

    I would advise anybody following in my footsteps to make this journey in the daylight.

    As it turns out, our accommodation had pinned themselves at the wrong location on Google maps. As we sat parked down a dark gravel road in rural Pai, wondering what on earth to do next, we encountered two lost girls on a motorbike who by chance were looking for the same place.

    By 10.30pm we had checked into our room for the night, at the lovely and accordingly well-rated (but at the time inaccurately mapped) Baan Katisod.

    Late night dining in Pai

    Due to the restaurants en-route to Pai all being closed after dark, by the time we reached our room we were ravenous and exhausted. After a quick drive down the road in a semi-zombie state we stumbled upon a surprisingly stunning restaurant that had recently opened, and were still available to put us together some dinner.

    Thien Artspace is , I believe, also an art gallery. We arrived too late to spot any art, but the whole establishment was a work of art in itself. Meticulously designed with very trendy Asian influence in mind there was all manner of indoor & outdoor seating, mostly involving beautiful cushions and low tables. The ceiling was designed like a woven basket and a koi pond complete with bridge led you from the entrance, past the DJ table over to the bar.

    Santichon, Northern Thailand
    Santichon, Northern Thailand

    Seeing Pai in the daylight

    On the second day of our northern Thailand adventure I woke to an unfamiliar experience – the cold. Not something I’d felt for almost three months of traveling now.

    It was a nice experience to be snuggled into a cosy bed with a mosquito net fort while the air was crisp and cool.  However, the climate in Pai in this sleepy mountain village is only cold throughout the night, with daytime temperatures this time of year soaring up to the early-mid 30’s (celsius, that is) in the afternoon.

    Pai a very scenic mountain village that has had a tourism boom over the past 5 or so years, transforming from a sleepy town full of hill-tribe locals to a melting pot of alternative and ‘hippy’ tourists from around the world. It is pretty easy to find a yoga school, pair of harem pants or an affordable bungalow amongst the rice paddies to sleep in at night.

    Mid-morning we ventured out into our first daytime viewing of Pai, and it was just as scenic as we had hoped. Mountains, hills and greenery everywhere. Beautiful buildings, rivers and rice paddies, quite the change from Chiang Mai city that we have become used to.  We visited the walking street market and had a quick and easy breakfast at a Thai-German cafe.

    Originally planning to look around the town longer, our attempts at extending the car rental failed and in order to make it through the hilly-pass before sunset we would need to get a move on. After reviewing the internet for things to do, we decided to head west for the afternoon.

    Sight-Seeing at Santichon

    Not far out of Pai is a Chinese village that goes by the name of Santichon, settled by escapees from Yunnan, Southwest China.

    It was incredibly beautiful, with so much attention paid to the details. At some moments it felt more like a theme park than an actual village, however behind the ‘tourist’ part there is a definite community settlement.

    There are lots of tiny little Chinese houses decorated with ornaments and lanterns selling a variety of teas, ornaments, and Chinese sweets. I taste-tested a beautiful jasmine fragranced green tea, admired all the gorgeous tea sets and brought a bottle of coffee wine that had been produced in nearby Chiang Rai.

    The main road into the Chinese village was well signposted, and lined with street vendors selling a variety of Chinese tea, snacks, trinkets and food.

    Vendors at the Santichon entrance
    Vendors at the Santichon entrance

    Snacking at the Jungle Cafe

    Continuing on the journey up into the hills, in search of waterfalls, we arrived upon a stretch of road dotted with small cafés. The Jungle Cafe was the winner of my attention.

    It was idyllic, my idea of total relaxation. Sunny & surrounded by nature, reggae music, hammocks and good food. A couple of backpackers were playing on the pool-table while I enjoyed a delicious fruit salad of mandarins, dragon fruit and papaya with yoghurt and honey.  I would love to have found this spot sooner &  stayed for a week more.

    The Jungle Cafe – A dream chillout spot
    Jungle Cafe, Pai
    So laid back, so many hammocks

    Waterfalls at Mo Paeng

    Winding up and into the hills in such perfect weather was as good as it sounds, it was a welcome break to be out in nature again. The Mo Paeng waterfalls were only a few more minutes up the hill from the Jungle Cafe and when we arrived we found a few other tourists around sunbathing, however it certainly wasn’t overcrowded or unpleasant.

    All up, Mo Paeng waterfalls are only 9km outside of Pai and are an easy spot to find if you are looking for some big flat rocks to sunbathe on, beautiful natural scenery and pools to swim in. The water was quite cool and nobody was swimming, but on hotter days people dip into the clear pools and are often seen using the flat rocks of the waterfall as a natural waterslide.

    The basin is surrounded by banana palms & jungle and as you kick back & relax in the sun you can spot a number of differently coloured butterflies.

    From the carpark at the top, the waterfalls are only a couple of minutes walk away. Unlike some other waterfalls in the region these are very easily accessible and suitable even for people without hiking gear or the stamina to walk for long distances.

    Waterfalls at Mo Paeng
    Waterfalls at Mo Paeng

    The long drive home to Chiang Mai

    The journey back to Chiang Mai was a race against the sun. After the harrowing experiences of driving on the 1096 in the dark the night before, getting to the other side of the hill range before sun-down became rather important to us.

    Driving these roads during the day was much easier than at night, the scenery much better too. There are various national parks, geysers, hot-springs and street vendors selling the usual bits and pieces.

    Stopping at a roadside restaurant & market it quickly became apparent that this was where the tour-buses were paid to stop. Lot’s of seating, low quality food & over-pricing tend to be the standard in these tour-bus truck-stop areas. The food looked unappetising and the chicken was sitting out in the sun, pre cut into un-appetising little bits ready to be cooked. We skipped on the meal and loaded up on pre-packed snacks before continuing on our journey.

    We made it out of the hills just as the sun was setting and joined the rush-hour traffic heading back through Mae Rim to Chiang Mai, feeling rather pleased with ourselves for successfully navigating the Thai roads.

    Beautiful views around the Northern Chiang Mai region & villages

    Overall, it was a magical 2 days. We experienced rural Thailand, jungles, waterfalls, caves and temples as well as observing what life is like closer to the Burmese border.  Thanks to avoiding the ‘big’ tourist attractions around Mae Rim and focusing more on natural attractions it was also a very cost effective trip. If you are in or around Chiang Mai, I highly recommend hiring a car, bike or driver and getting out and exploring – there is so much beauty you will miss if you spend your entire stay in Chiang Mai!

  • A First Timers Guide to Indian Railways Sleeper Class

    Have you been dreaming of a luxury railway journey across foreign lands? Delectable curries, silver service, and a turndown service each night? Bad news my friend – keep searching, as the Indian Railways Sleeper Class is definitely not what you’ve been looking for.

    On the other hand – if real, authentic experiences are what you’re seeking, then I have just the ticket for you (quite literally)

    Welcome to Indian Railways, Sleeper Class.

    I get it, sleeper class sounds kind of exotic – an overnight train. I also had misguided visions of the orient express from time to time. However, sleeper class is the second-to-last tier in a list of different cabins available and affords a budget ticket price and a chance to experience a more normal standard of Indian life.

    Benefits of Sleeper Class:

    • You get to hang out with families, and learn about the local culture.
    • There is no air conditioning, which means the breeze comes through the open windows which is quite nice!
    • There’s so much vibrancy, noise, sounds & music – this cabin is so much more alive than the AC cabins above it.
    • Street vendors are allowed to enter this part of the train, so you are frequented with the friendly neighbourhood chaiwallah and other tasty snacks & drinks throughout your journey.

    Pitfalls of Sleeper Class:

    • It can be really crowded. Although you will get the bunk to yourself overnight, during the day each bench sits 3-5 people and it can be quite the squeeze.
    • There is no air conditioning – which some people really prefer.
    • The vibrancy, noise, sounds & music can be intense at times, and if you’re looking for a very peaceful, quiet, relaxing trip then this can impede upon that
    • The security isn’t as tight – because street vendors are hopping on and off, and because the seats are so busy with people, there can be a lot more petty theft so it’s important to be extra vigilant with your belongings.

    Welcome aboard – I expect if this is your first time in India, then you might not have laid eyes upon something as well-run and efficient, yet so insane and chaotic, as the Indian railways.

    During my time in Northern India I spent around 40 hours navigating the overnight Rajasthan railway systems, and I can happily report I had (mostly) wonderful experiences, and it was the best way to really experience Indian culture and life. The key is to be well prepared in advance, and know what to expect. It makes all the difference, and seriously arms you for an enjoyable rail journey around the state of Rajasthan (or anywhere in India, for that matter!) 

    India Sleeper Train

    Rajasthan Rail Travel Route

    During my one month journey into the popular Northern state of Rajasthan, I caught 4 different overnight trains (and numerous daytime ones & busses too)

    1. Took the 6 hour JSL express from Delhi to Jaipur  class: sleeper price: 205 rs. time: 1735-2335
    2. Then the 12 hour JSL express from Jaipur to Jaisalmer class: AC3 but upgraded to AC2  price: 905rs  time: 2335-1135
    3.  The 5 hour Leelan Express from Jaisalmer to Bikaner  class: sleeper price: 268 rs. time: 23:55-05:20
    4. And finally the ~15 hour BKN HW Special from Bikaner to Haridwar class: sleeper price: 508 rs. time: 19:45-10:25

    Despite having traveled via train across numerous countries, all of my locomotive experience at this point had been during the day (needless to say, this was before my Overland Asia adventure). To say the least, I was super excited to spend my first overnight night on the rails!

    New Delhi station is huge and chaotic. As I had no particular travel plans, just a glimmer of an idea, I didn’t book a ticket in advance. It took me quite a lot of wandering around this massive station to find the tourist office, but in the end I found it.

    The ticket I wanted to take me through to Jaisalmer was not available, so on a whim I picked up a cheap, last minute ticket to Jaipur instead.

    My train left from Old Delhi station, rather than New Delhi where I was.

    Pro Tip: It’s a good thing to pay careful attention to the particular station you need to depart from – there’s often more than one in big cities

    Passing time wandering around the area of Old Delhi was hot and sweaty, topped off by loads of dust and an abundance of over-enthusiastic touts and hawkers.

    I sat down on a rickety plastic table and gorged myself on 40r rupee all-you-can-eat thali.

    There was no WiFi around and I had no plan for my midnight arrival into Jaipur.

    Scattered moments and view from inside the sleeper class carriage

    Making a Plan – Not So Easy without WiFI

    Once at the platform I found a McDonalds and sat outside it to get some WiFi. Luckily for me, a sweet young McDonalds worker spied me and came outside to usher me in. No purchase needed, in fact he even used his Indian phone number to register me on the WiFi 

    Pro Tip: Free WiFi is available in most Indian train stations, but you will need an Indian phone number to activate it.

    I managed to book myself into Zostel in Jaipur and message a friend of mine staying there, asking him to advise the reception of my late arrival.

    India Trains: Sometimes Early, Sometimes Very, Very Late

    Before I knew it I was starting to run late. Time to rush to the platform. By the time I arrive, guys are taking down the reservations paperwork from the boards. They speak no English but signal to me that the train just left. Feeling exhausted and defeated I head to the newsagents, informing the vaguely English speaking guy that my train left 10mins early. What do I do? No. It hasn’t left, it turns out. Just a different platform that’s not mentioned on any of the signs.

    Useful to Note: I have since met people who’ve missed trains because they did in fact leave early. Up to two hours early. (And sometimes they are late by as much at 8 or 9 hours, too) Always check the running times earlier in the day on the Indian Railways website or Cleartrip app!

    Boarding the Train into Sleeper Class

    These trains are seriously long, with carriages stretching out toward the horizon. Where do I sit?  I pondered, wondering in and out of various carriages, getting sent every-which-way by other passengers. A mess of arms and pointing fingers leading me in a slew of different directions.

    Without so much as a whistle, the train starts rolling away.. So, like something out of a bad film, I grab a handrail and haul myself on board just as it pulls out of the station.

    After much wandering and enquiring I finally find my carriage. It’s a old, rickety, and made up of mostly chains and bars, but it’s clean enough.

    I get a rush of excitement.. there’s nobody else here, maybe get this berth to myself! No such luck, as people pack in over the next few stations. 4-5 people each bench, piled up on the higher beds. Once we’re snuggly fitted into our spots, we begin to roll out through slums. The atmosphere both in and outside of the carriage is colourful and alive.

    The lack of air conditioning on board is fine with the breeze coming through the window. The sun begins to set and I settle in to enjoy a book. It’s a little cramped and I’m thankful for my three bottles of water and window seat. Later in the evening they will come to pull down the beds, and it won’t be so busy.

    A bunk to myself is luxury and I stretch out to enjoy the ride – my first experience travelling sleeper class.

     Key tips & takeaways for sleeper class travel:

    • You can often get last minute seats by being flexible and checking into the tourist counter on the day
    • Beware of touts who try and convince you not to go to the tourist desk
    • Check your PNR on the Clear trip or Indian Rail app a few times in advance for signs of trains running early (yes, it happens) late (considerably, often) or for spontaneous upgrades to your ticket

    Things to bring when travelling sleeper class:

    • Make sure to bring a chain or bikelock to lock your back safely away while you sleep. Tip: I have a simple plastic-coated bike lock which does a fantastic job, and costs a fraction of the price of speciality travel-locks from travel stores. This is one item you can definitely cut costs on. 
    • Sleeper class is an excellent way to experience the real India experience, but BYO blankets and pillows! Tip: If you’re limited on space (like me) I take a pillowcase or laundry bag and stuff it full of my clean scarves and sweaters to create a pillow on the go. 
    • My sleeping liner is an absolute godsend. It provides a safe space to curl up in, and provides added privacy as your legs won’t pop out in the night. Tip: I have a bug-proof treated one that is antibacterial and has a pocket inside to keep my important smaller bits and pieces safe and secure. I currently have a cotton one, which works well, but the silk ones are even nicer (and way smaller/lighter)  
    • Except on certain routes, food is not provided. The selections at the train station are lacking in imagination, so bring something tasty of your own.
    View out the window leaving Old Delhi train station

    Useful Sites, Blogs & Apps:

    Cleartrip – A must-have for foreign visitors, simplifies the booking system with an easy-to-use app, and lets you book using international credit cards. You’ll still need an IRCRS account to use it, however.

    IRCRS – The official Indian Railways ticket booking website. You’ll need to sign up here to book any trains through the internet (or for using other apps such as cleartrip) But can be clunky and difficult to navigate. Once registered you’re better off moving over to a more user friendly app.

    Confirmtkt – Ultimate in useful apps for booking waitlist tickets, or finding alternate routes (including busses). Uses a fantastic algorithm to calculate the chances of you getting on a particular train, and also provides a host of other handy features such as setting an alarm for when the train pulls into your desired station.

    Train Travel in India, a Beginners Guide by Seat61

    Tips For Traveling India by Train Solo by Hippie in Heels

    How to survive sleeper trains in India by The Travel Hack

    Five Tips for Traveling India by Train by Bootsnall

  • A Trip Across Mongolia

    My borderline obsession with railway journeys was a seed planted by my father. Moving overland feels like you’re putting in the miles to get somewhere. It gives you a sense of time and space, a glimpse of the legwork required to traverse between two places.

    Trans Mongolia Express, Departing from Beijing

    Up until this point I’d taken some overnight and long distance trains, but nothing which was quite as well known as the Trans-Mongolian. On first impressions, the train is exactly how one would expect. Forest green, each carriage embossed in gold with its final destination. A long beast of a locomotive that knows its place as one of the world’s greatest railways.

    Much unlike its Chinese counterparts, hard sleeper is soft and somewhat luxurious. Each sleeper cabin houses 2 sets of bunks, and we got the good luck of no room-mates for our entire journey, leaving us with an entire cabin to ourselves.

    The halls are narrow with intermittent fold down single chairs and coveted electrical outlets, perfect for recharging phones and kindles throughout such a long journey. Long doesn’t even quite describe it – We booked in to travel for 26 hours. The train would continue on without us for another 5 days through Siberia and on to St Petersburg and Moscow.

    A Cozy Carriage Home for Two

    A sliding door reveals our home for the night – a cozy cabin with a large window, a luxurious two whole blankets per person, and a table situated between the two bottom berths. Where each carriage joins to the next houses a bathroom, hot-water boiler for topping up endless cup noodles and flasks of jasmine tea, and a coal range stove to heat the carriages through the wintery depths of Siberia.

    After making ourselves comfortable, the cabin attendant arrived with a voucher for two complimentary meals in the dining cart. A welcome surprise.

    The cart ambled out of the station, and we began to inch our way out of Beijing city & toward the Chinese border. We were treated to forest green hills with deep creases etched in, cavernous gorges, valleys and bright yellow fields of blossoming rapeseed as the sprawling metropolis of Beijing faded into the distance.

    A Journey from China to Mongolia

    As we approached the Gobi, mainland China gave way to Inner Mongolia (deceptively named, it is still a part of China). The landscapes morphed into dusty vistas. Small villages feature dilapidated camel-coloured houses, co-ordinated to match the surrounding sands. Disappearing deeper into China’s final frontier, we were enveloped by an orange sunset dissolving into an inky sky, and the ominous silhouettes of wind turbines before finally lurching into darkness.

    The dining cart resembled an old film. Regal, foreign and heaving with people grasping meal vouchers, fluttering in the breeze. The first day’s meals are included, and then you’re on your own. Fine by me, I thought, as remembered that we would be departing the following day. Whisked away in a manner of efficiency not uncommon in China, we were wedged into the next two available seats. Moments later a hurried waiter appeared, serving up a plate of flavourful vegetables on rice. After a rushed dinner, I retired to the cabin with my latest purchase under my arm – a cheap bottle of unusually flavoured Great Wall wine to complement our equally unusual bottle of Chinese Plum Wine (spoiler alert : nothing at all like the delicious Japanese plum wine I’d been hoping for)

    China, Mongolia, Russia – One Train, Three Different Types of Track

    In the glow of questionable Chinese alcohol and an evening of trying to remember card games, I drifted off to sleep in my bottom bunk, somewhere before the Mongolian frontier. One of the curiosities of this particular journey is the varying sizes of tracks between the three travelled countries. The bigger question is why they haven’t invested the time and money in remedying this. Instead, with each crossing, three hours is spent hoisting the train up, carriage by carriage, and changing the entire wheelset.

    For many arriving unprepared, it is at this precise moment where hilarity ensues (for readers and spectators, that is).

    As the train heads for a wheelbase change, it first stops at a station platform with a small, enticing cafe. Many an unsuspecting tourist has hopped off, to be left in dismay as the train pulls away. Without a word of warning, it leaves the passengers stranded for hours in the night, unsure if it will ever return for them. Eventually, it does. Leaving a trail of legends whispered through the carriage.. “don’t get off at the border station cafe”.

    Snoozing through the border crossing

    I dozed as customs and quarantine officers came in to pick up and drop off various paperwork. Each time opening the door and leaving the light on as they leave. The visitors subsided and I drifted off into a very comfortable sleep for the night.

    Light peered through the window and I craned my head up to check that I wasn’t missing anything. It was before dawn and I was in time to catch the moon setting outside my window. Venturing out into the carriage hall, I stopped to watch the sunrise out of the other side of the cabin, warming myself by the roaring coal range. The temperatures in the Gobi desert were well below zero, but the train was so well heated, I never even used the thick extra blanket.

    • Corridor-of-trans-mongolia-train
      Corridor-of-trans-mongolia-train
    • Wheels-getting-changed-at-china-mongolia-border
      Wheel changing time!
    • Train-wheelbase
      More wheel changing

    Arrival into Ulaanbataar

    The rest of the journey was relaxing and uneventful. A brand new dining cart awaited us for breakfast – it’s not just the wheels they change here. The car is of traditional Mongolian style, with intricate dark wood carving and Mongolian artwork. A new menu has appeared with its prices in Tugriks. I enjoy many coffees and fried eggs on toast while watching the Mongolia desert stream past.

    As we got closer to Ulaanbaatar, the view became less sparse. Tiny, weary villages; herds of horses and the odd speck of a nomadic Ger or two materialize out the window. As we careened past frozen rivers it was difficult not to imagine that this is the kind of country where time moves differently.

    After another few hours of rolling, sparse grasslands and frozen rivers, we slowed our pace and rolled into UlanBaatar station, the capital city of Mongolia, where we were being met outside our carriage & escorted over to our rental apartment for the week.

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  • Notes from my (former) flight attendant life

    Anna the flight attendant? Yeah, right! Aviation was not an industry I had ever imagined myself involved in. Unlike many who spend their whole lives dreaming of working in the skies, I had always had other plans for my life. So many, in fact, that I almost had a new career plan for each day of the year.

    Doctor, Skydive Instructor and Radio DJ topped the wish-list at various points in my life. Chef, med school dropout, volunteer ambulance officer and graphic designer had made it onto the ‘been there, done that’ pile. Flight attendant was one of the few job titles that had never really caught my eye. So you can imagine it came as quite the surprise to find myself vacuum backed into that tight red dress, slathered in a cocktail of lipstick and hairspray, learning the ropes of emergency evacuations over water.

    Truth be told, I was a little lost. I had wanted out of the city I had spent most of my life living in, and I felt a passion for travel. Other than that I had absolutely no clue, or any savings to leave with. That was, of course, until I saw the job listing. Within 6 months of applying, I had my wings and was a fully-fledged short-haul international flight attendant.

    Suddenly the world opened up to me, I was living in a bigger city and spending my life traveling. A normal Saturday night for me might be spent going out for dinner in Sydney followed by a lazy Sunday afternoon poolside in Fiji.

    My flight attendant career spanned about four years – which is quite a long time in my world of relentless retraining and career hopping. By the time I handed in my wings I was ready to move onto other adventures, but I picked up a few & memories notes along the way

    1. Don’t eat the crew meals. Number one rule! It’s hard enough to eat properly when your always on the road, but crew meals are designed to have added salt and sugar. (Check out this article from the BBC on why food tastes bad at altitude, and how catering companies add extra salt and flavouring to make up for it) 

    2. Diet coke is the most time consuming, foamy, mess of a drink to pour into a cup at altitude thanks to the artificial sweeteners, and to top it all off – it tastes a little odd up there too thanks to our altered ability to taste.

    3.Carry dry bags. Having to stash your wet swimsuit in your suitcase on the second day of a five day trip does not to nice things to your clean clothes. Or, for that matter, the overall atmosphere of your suitcase. Same deal with anything that gets muddy, wet, damp, or smelly. Drybags are a lifesaver for frequent travellers, and although it’s been many years since I was working onboard an aircraft, it’s still an essential item I pack on every trip.

    4. Sleep is completely underrated. When I first set out into the flight attendant life, the lure & sometimes pressure of meeting up at the bar was a bit too much. I went too hard and lost out on a lot of sleep. I’m older, and hopefully wiser now and I say – catch up on sleep whenever you can – no matter how tempting all the outings, dinners, and drinks will be. Everyone will be meeting down at the bar again tomorrow night for another round, I promise!

    Lounging poolside in Koh Samui
    Fancy lounging poolside as part of your work week? Look no further.

    5. Invest in the most comfortable shoes you can find. Although high heels are often required when walking about the airport, usually after takeoff the cabin crew get to switch into flat cabin shoes. I would recommend upgrading both as much as the company will allow – when the shin splints and numb toes catch up, often a lot of the damage is done and it can take a long time to recover.

    6. Keep hydrated. The cabin is a really low humidity place to spend a lot of time, so chugging down the waters is always a priority. When I was training, they recommended 500mls per hour, but personally I think more than that is better. Normally I aim for 2 litres of water a day, but I’d increase that even further on flying days!

    7. There will always be passengers who are unhappy about something. No matter how glamorous aviation may sound to those not working in it, it is still a customer service role. You will always get difficult customers, and you can’t please everyone. Don’t let it get to you.

    8. Even when it feels like everything is going wrong, there will always be one person (passenger or crew) who thinks your doing just great – make it your mission to find that person & connect with them to boost your confidence.

    9. Keep the essentials in your cabin bag (underwear, phone charger, wallet), it’s only a matter of time until somebody looses your check-in for the night and it’s nice to be prepared for anything! I also liked to keep a dress in there that rolls small, wrinkle free as an emergency backup change of clothes.

    10. Smile. Always. Not because you have to (although mileage may vary depending on who you work for) – do it because it’ll make you feel better, I promise. (read this article on smiling)

    11. Keep a gratitude diary. Sometimes it’s easy to forget how amazing this job actually is! (also, daily gratitude = amazing thing to get in the habit of) and later on, you will be able to look back even more fondly on this time spent in a great job.

    12. Take the time to learn a new language. You don’t need to be fluent, just being able to communicate a few words is enough to turn an awkward flight of non-english speakers into something fun & that you learn from. (They really appreciate the effort, too)

    13. Keep earplugs and eye masks with you, they always come in handy for those times when you want to catch a few moments rest wherever you are.

    14. Learn more about posture. I’ve strained myself from incorrect lifting and sitting twisted in the back galley with my legs crossed far too many times. Practicing good posture, doing yoga, wearing well fitting shoes – these things all help enormously.

    15. Pack snacks. Things like nuts, seeds, crackers and tinned tuna seem to make it through most country arrival quarantines un-confiscated. Be wary of fresh produce, meats, dairy and honey if you are travelling somewhere with strict biosecurity such as Australia and New Zealand though.

    16. Don’t give buddy passes to people unless it’s an emergency or they understand standby very well. It can get very stressful!

    17. Speaking of staff travel, try not to book yourself on a busy flight home the night before your next duty with no backup plan. It generally ends in an expensive disaster.

    18. One (more) word: Sunscreen.

    19. Passengers will never, ever learn to remain seated until the seatbelt light comes off. It’s an unfortunate, universal truth.

    20. Toiletries with screw on lids are a great investment (there’s only so many times a person can forgive an exploded shampoo bottle amongst their things)

    21. Keep hydration interesting and carry a selection of herbal tea bags with you. Fruit flavoured ones added to a bottle of cold water make a delicious alternative to plain water.

    22.  Protein powder/meal replacement sachets can be a great breakfast, especially at 3am when you know you SHOULD eat, but your stomach has different feelings on the matter.

    23. Don’t become bitter, and never forget to see passengers as people – no matter how obnoxious they become.

    Working as a flight attendant was a truly awesome career, I’m so thankful for all the experiences I was lucky enough to have during this time.

    I met some excellent people and have collected memories I will treasure for a lifetime.

    It’s me, many years back now!

    Ultimately, it wasn’t my forever job. None of them have been so far – but I sure had a great time doing it & it opened up the world of travel and possibilities to me in a way I am eternally grateful.

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  • These are a few of my favourite travel blogs (August 2020)

    What am I reading this month?

    This year has bought along with it a whole lot less travel, and much more reading about it in travel blogs instead – well, I don’t know about you, but that’s certainly been the case for me!

    But what am I reading for inspiration right now? Here’s a few interesting travel bloggers writing about places, and experiences, that I’ve been adding to my return-to-travel 2021 (fingers crossed) wish list

    Two Birds Breaking Free

    With a focus on Asian destinations, Eoghan and Jili of the Two Birds Breaking Free travel blog have me seriously wanderlusting after some parts of India I’d never even heard of.

    I’m especially enamoured by the living root bridges in Nongriat village that look like something straight out of a fairytale.

    Nomadic Notes

    Nomadic Notes Screenshot

    James has a pretty sweet blog focused on the digital nomad life that I myself have been living since 2014 (I’m a baby at it in comparison!)

    Currently, James is based in Vietnam and providing fascinating guides on the country that has been helping me develop some future plans to finally make it to Vietnam and visit (once it’s safe to do so, of course)! I am especially curious about what Hoi An must be like without tourists.

    The Lost Passport

    The lost passport screenshot

    The Lost Passport refers to itself as Your Ultimate Southeast Asia Travel Guide and woah, that’s totally true. I’ve visited, lived in, and fallen in love with Southeast Asia so many times over the years, but nothing I’ve experienced compares to the detailed guides and info that Josh is putting out over here.

    I’ve been lusting after Thailand recently, even though I was only just there in February! I think The Lost Passport’s Guide to Koh Lipe has me inspired to check out this little island that’s been on my radar for a while now.

    Nomadic Samuel

    Nomadic Samuel Screenshot

    I had been enjoying Nomadic Samuel’s blog in the past, but somehow it totally slipped off my radar and I’ve had the joy of rediscovering it all over again!

    Sam posts really interesting and informative content, and this Emilia-Romagna guide for foodies has me dreaming of planning another Euro trip next summer to indulge my tastebuds in some amazing Italian cuisine.

    Bachelor of Travel

    Bachelor of Travel Screenshot

    The Bachelor of Travel blog caught my eye recently with the post 10 Things People Get Wrong About Aotearoa New Zealand

    Being a Kiwi myself, I love reading people’s experiencing of NZ – and then learning that the awesome Rania is from Thessaloniki (where I’ve spent a lot of time & it feels like home for me) then moved to New Zealand for a long while (my home country) made me even more fascinated to keep reading this pretty awesome blog and follow Rania’s adventures.

    Don’t Forget to Move

    dont forget to move screenshot

    Jules & Christine over at Don’t Forget to Move have some awesome adventure travel posts I am devouring at the moment.

    I’m especially fascinated with the Adventure Travel in Mexico : Exploring Chiapas post as I was supposed to be returning to Mexico this November, for my first visit to Chiapas (despite many, many, many visits to neighbouring Oaxaca!)

    So while I’m sad Chiapas is postponed for now, reading about it makes me even more excited for next year when I will try again!

    52 in Kicks

    51inKicks screenshot

    I have a particular soft spot for 52 in Kicks because of the beautiful site design, but also because Agata & Sean write about some of my favourite places & I’m loving reminiscing.

    But also enjoying getting some inspiration for visiting more of my own country (New Zealand) while I am passing the year here!

    The Longest Way Home

    The Longest Way Home screenshot

    David set off on an overland journey in 2005, and is still going now – this website is one of the most comprehensive guides, especially to Nepal, Asia and Overland travel I have encountered and I am loving every moment of it.

    My own overland Asia journey pales in comparison to the incredible journeys documented on the Longest Way home, and it’s so inspiring to read.

    I’ve been finding it fascinating to learn how different parts of the world are working with the current pandemic situation, and the post Will Nepal Open for Trekking and Tourism is a really fascinating insight into how the situation there is right now.

    What are your favourite travel blogs this month? What else should I be checking out to satiate all this pent up wanderlust? Let me know in the comments!

  • New Zealand Wilderness: Exploring Lewis Pass & The Maruia Valley

    The centre of New Zealand’s South Island can feel a million miles away. Wild, rugged & windswept full of beech forests, alpine passes and abundant nature.

    Welcome to the wilderness of New Zealand’s Central South Island. A place I had little experience with, despite growing up right around the corner. That was until twenty-twenty arrived, the pandemic hit, and I set out on an adventure to explore my own backyard.

    Lewis Pass and the Maruia Valley are often lesser known by tourists, but the area is full of wildlife, hot springs & natural beauty as well as excellent food & drinks if you know where to look – so it was a great choice for a few short getaways from Christchurch.

    SH7 in the Lewis Pass
    SH7 in the Lewis Pass

    Red Beech Forests

    Towering red beech trees make up the forests around here, with a smattering of smaller silver birches growing underneath.

    Pure beech forest is the dominent forest cover in the Lewis Pass, and numerous other parts of the country – it covers more than 2.9 million hectares of New Zealand. The Lewis Pass is an excellent area to see this type of forest, and experience the fairytale-esque woodland vibe by meandering through towering beech trees, huge mossy tree roots and delicate ferns spread out across the forest floor.

    The red beech forests of the Lewis Pass and Maruia Valley provide a wonderful opportunity for some shinrin-yoku (forest bathing)

     It is simply being in nature, connecting with it through our senses of sight, hearing, taste, smell and touch. Shinrin-yoku is like a bridge. By opening our senses, it bridges the gap between us and the natural world.

    From FOREST BATHING: How Trees Can Help You Find Health and Happiness by Dr. Qing Li,

    St James Walkway

    Entrance to the Saint James walkway
    Entrance to the Saint James walkway off SH 7

    Located off State Highway 7, The St James Walkway  is a multi day hike through sub-alpine conservation and reserve areas. It’s a great trail for wildlife spotting and covering 66 km of diverse scenery over 4–5 days.

    It’s considered a good introductory trail to multiday walking, although as Michal points out it’s still the New Zealand wilderness, which can be demanding and dangerous if you encounter bad weather conditions. So it’s important to go well prepared for this, or any other hikes in New Zealand.

    There are a number of huts in the St James area where you can rest the night,  however, during the summer months it is recommended that you carry a tent with you, as accommodation in the huts is limited and available on a first come, first served basis.

    You can read read more details about the St James walkway on the Department of Conservation Website.

    View from the Maruia River, across the Maruia Valley
    View from the Maruia River, across the Maruia Valley

    Marble Hill + Deer Valley Campsites

    If you’re looking for a couple of nights to pitch a tent and kick back out in the wild, Marble Hill and Deer Valley are both excellent, relaxed & off the beaten track campsites.

    Marble Hill campsite is tucked away off the main road, bordering the forest. The sunsets are beautiful and there is wildlife all around. It’s very easy to camp here, and no bookings are required – you simply pay cash ($8 per night/per adult + additional fees for children) at the self-registration stand on arrival to the campsite.

    Deer Valley campsite is a scenic small space in the beech forests, on the banks of the Lewis river. There are 10 non-powered tent sites here, and you do not need to (nor can you) book in advance – spots are available on a first come, first serve basis. Just like Marble Hill, you pay cash on arrival ($8 per night/per adult + additional fees for children)

    tent spot at Marble Hill campsite
    My tent spot at Marble Hill campsite

    Maruia Hot Springs

    The outdoor rock pools at Maruia Hot Springs
    The outdoor rock pools at Maruia Hot Springs

    The Maruia hot springs are, in my opinion, the crowning glory of the Maruia valley. I may be bias, however, as I am a touch obsessed with hot springs.

    Maruia Hot Springs totes itself as a wellness resort, and boy does it deliver – Japanese style onsens and rock pools amidst, native bush and surrounded by mountains and towering beech forests. Birds call and the river babbles by as you sit back and enjoy one of the numerous pools, steam room, sauna or cold plunge pool.

    Maruia means place of shelter, and was a resting space for M?ori people passing through on their way to the Pounamu on the West Coast. The hot springs were a location of many a night of rest, recovery, and often battle too.

    The new owners of Maruia have done an exceptional job to turn this into a luxurious and world-class experience – their is excellent food, guided nature walks, massage, yoga and the premisis is even powered by its own hydro-power.

    You can visit with a day pass, or make the most of the various accomodations options available – ranging from camping, to glamping pods, up to luxury hotel rooms.

    You can see the different accomodation options & packages here

    • Indoor Onsen style hot pool at Maruia Hotsprings

    Native Bird Spotting

    Here in New Zealand we may not have many large mammals to spot, but what we lack in bears we make up for in an abundance of native birdlife.

    The Lewis Pass and Maruia Valley area is a haven for native New Zealand birds. If you’re lucky, you might spy some of the following:

    Native P?wakawaka (Fantail) bathing in a stream
    Native P?wakawaka (Fantail) bathing in a stream

    Reefton Distillery Co.

    Just past Maruia Springs when coming from Christchurch you will find the charming West Coast township of Reefton. Reefton is delightful in its own right, thanks to the preservation of an old-town West Coast village vibe.

    But, scenery and villages aside, the Reefton Distillery Co. is well worth a visit just to sample some Little Biddy Gin an exquisite local gin made from wild, New Zealand native botanicals. I’m a bit of a fan of interesting Gins, and this is one of my favourites. In an unusual way it tastes just like the NZ forests, go and give it a try!

    Roads around Waipara before reaching the Lewis Pass, Canterbury side.
    Roads around Waipara before reaching the Lewis Pass, Canterbury side.

    Waipara Wineries

    On the outskirts of the Lewis Pass (on the Christchurch Side) lies the Waipara region, well worth a mention for the excellent wineries that you can find here. It’s a small wine region for NZ, but it packs a punch.

    I’m particularly partial to Waipara Reislings, and you can try my two favourites at Pegasus Bay Winery and Waipara Hills Wines – the latter being an excellent stop to try out their Medeterranian styled vineyard restaruant.

    If foods your thing, then make sure not to miss Greystone Wines to try one of their equisite tasting menus.

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  • What to do in Martinique on a Sunday?

    It is thanks to France that Martinique can claim itself one of the top foodie & wine destinations of the Caribbean, but along with being French comes the infamous Sunday closures.

    Far be it from me to complain about the easy access to perfect ratatouille and a great bottle of Crémant, if empty streets is the price to pay for a decent croissant then count me in!

    Many a tourist has downplayed the rumours they’ve heard about things in France closing on a Sunday, but really it’s a lot more true than you may think! The unprepared tourist (cough, cough, myself) may even find themselves arriving in Martinque on a sunny Sunday afternoon, suddenly remembering why Fort-de-france is a ghost town and everything is closed up!

    But with a little planning you can be prepared, and have a wonderful weekend even whilst many places are not open.

    First, a quick FAQ to get you up to speed on Martinique weekend closures

    Why are so many things closed on a Sunday in Martinique?

    Traditionally, in France it was pretty much impossible to shop on a Sunday due to their strict Catholic heritage.

    Although many French people are no longer catholic, the history and the culture of shutting up shop to relax has lived on.

    Because Martinique is an overseas territorial collectivity of France, visiting means not only stepping into the Schengen zone and using the Euro, but also experiencing the cultural norms of everything closing on a Saturday afternoon and reopening again not until the Monday morning.

    What is open in Fort-de-france on a Sunday?

    – Fast food remains open, so you can still visit McDonalds and KFC if you must!
    – Granade et Basilic is an excellent restaurant that opens on Sundays, I’ve eaten many a Sunday dinner here and never been disappointed.
    – Fuji Sushi Bar on the main waterfront strip is open and makes remarkably good sushi for a Caribbean island!
    – For a cheap and tasty pizza by the ocean, Hasta La Pizza is open on Sunday for dinnertime (from 5pm onwards)
    – To pick up forgotten grocery items, or just to try some new and local specialities, make sure to visit the Food Market Fort-de-France at 54 Avenue des Caraibes. They are open on Sundays, sell all kinds of goodies, and are very tourist (and if needed, English) friendly.

    What’s open around the island of Martinique on a Sunday?

    – Pointe du bout boasts more openings than nearby Fort-de-france because of the additional tourism, hotels & tourist apartments in the area. You’ll find a larger selection of open restaurants, bars & shops here if you’re looking for something more lively.

    – An excellent option on the Pointe du bout side on a Sunday is Le Ti Taurus for the lovely sunny seating & ocean views.

    – The Jardin de Balata and Musée de la banane are both open on Sundays if you’re looking for something more structured than lazing on the beach and drinking cocktails.

    Can I rent a car in Martinique on a Sunday?

    Yes you can rent a car in Martinique on a Sunday. The best place to rent from is either near the Martinique Aimé Césaire International Airport, and in Pointe-de-bout.

    Both have a number of car rental agencies who open on Sundays – just make sure to book in advance to make sure something will be available. All of the big chain companies (and some of the small ones) offer online bookings.

    For my own Martinique road trips we rented through  Europcar’s Trois Ilets Pointe Du Bout Car Rental in Pointe du Bout on all occasions and found the experience really easy & affordable.

    Are the grocery stores open in Martinique on Sundays?

    Yes but your options are limited. Most of the smaller grocery stores in Martinique including the Carrefour in central Fort-de-france are closed on Sundays.

    However, the larger Centre Commercial Carrefour Dillon is open 9am–12:30pm on Sunday mornings for your last minute Sunday grocery needs. It is not walking distance from Fort-de-france central, or many places really – so a car or taxi would be necessary to get here from most places.

    Does the Fort-de-france ferry run on a Sunday?

    Yes – but the schedule is limited and finishes early in the day. Check the Vedettes Tropicales Website for the most up to date ferry schedule.

    What to do in Martinique on a Sunday?

    Taste test the local liquors and pick yourself up some souvineers

    A wonderful gem in Fort-de-france I stumbled upon one Sunday was the Food Market Fort-de-France at 54 Avenue des Caraibes.

    Aside from being an excellent place to pick up some food if you forgot to by groceries over the weekend, it is a haven full of locally produced sweets, chocolates, rums, spices and souvineers from Martinique and nearby Guadeloupe.

    They often have tastings set up, and will gladly talk you through the local specialities. I highly recommend trying their Ponche de coco & the banana wine is truly fascinating.

    Open 8am – 1pm on Sundays.

    Dinner Plans: Grenade et Basilic

    Grenade et Basilic was one of the best little restaurants I discovered in all of Martinique. Run by the kindest French man, they serve up typical mainland French cuisine in a small little bistro in the heart of Fort-de-france.

    The kindness here was outstanding, the service excellent, and the food I still miss. The ratatouille is a personal favourite, and the differing daily flavours of creme brûlée are not to miss.

    Michel the owner is kind and friendly, speaking a multitude of languages and patient enough to chat with me in my fledgling French.

    Best of all, while most buildings in Fort-de-France are shuttered up, Granade et Basilic remains open through Sunday lunch and dinner.

    Find their website here: https://grenadeetbasilic.fr/en

    Plan ahead for a picnic day out at the beach

    If you’re organised, you can plan in advance and pick up a car rental and some picnic ingredients the day before & head off early for a full day of sun and sand! Just because the shops are closed, doesn’t mean the beaches are.

    Martinique is quite literally surrounded by some of the most beautiful beaches in the world, with crystal clear waters and soft, pillowy sand.

    If you’re well prepared with a car and some supplies you can have a lovely day out. Every other day of the week the supermarkets are well stocked with French cheeses and wines – the perfect makings for a Sunday picnic!

    You can also stop into any of the dive shops on the Saturday when you collect your car rental to rent a snorkel & mask to explore the underwater worlds around the island, or to visit the sea turtles at  l’Anse Noire

    Perfect picnic ingredients can be fund all over the island!
    Perfect picnic ingredients can be fund all over the island!

    Visit the magnificent Jardin de Balata

    No explanation will do for the incredible Jardin de Balata botanical gardens. I had read numerous times how wonderful it was, yet never placed it high up on my life and only went there somewhat by accident.

    But I was blown away. It’s truly magical – green & lush & full of amazing views, canopy walks and hummingbirds galore.

    Open Sundays 9am – 5pm. Read more in my post on Jardin de Balata here.

    Jardin de balata, Martinique

    Don’t Forget the Banana Museum – Open on Sunday!

    The Musée de la banane is open from 9am – 5pm on Sundays, and is a great way to learn about the history and importance this little yellow fruit plays in Martinique culture. It also has a beautiful garden & you can taste test bananas.

    So don’t let Sundays get you down!

    Get out and explore Martinique, just plan ahead like I didn’t do so that you can make the most of what is open and available to you.

  • Seven Unique Things to do in Christchurch this Winter

    So there I was, wrapped in woollen scarves and my teeth chattering just a little, walking through Christchurch Central City trying to remember just how cold did winters really get here?

    Despite having grown up in Christchurch, and living here until my mid twenties; It had felt like such a long time away. Christchurch is quite a different city these days, a hub of urban regeneration and new pockets of delicious food and activities that have unfurled across the city throughout the last 9 years of rebuilding since the devastating earthquakes.

    However, so many of my fond memories growing up involve blossoming blooms in the botanical gardens or lazy summer evenings sprawled out on Sumner beach. The truth is, I’d been avoiding winter for the longest time I’d forgotten how to enjoy it here! But then, COVID-19 came along just as I was visited for my brothers wedding, and I found myself (for the first time in many years) living back in Christchurch through the winter.

    It turns out there are so many things to do in Christchurch in the winter after all, thanks to some exciting new developments (along with some old favourites!)

    So here I was, rediscovering the city I grew up in – not to mentioned playing tour guide to my American partner who was visiting for the first time when we ended up (surprise!) moving here. Trying to show him the heart of a place I was rediscovering myself.

    What you’ll find inside:

    1. He Puna Taimoana Hot Pools
    2. Riverside Market
    3. Lyttelton Market
    4. Catnap Cat Cafe
    5. Willowbank Kiwi Nocturnal House
    6. Quake City Earthquake Museum
    7. Little High Eatery

    1. Soak at the He Puna Taimoana Hot Pools

    The He Puna Taimoana pools are a shiny & new on the list of things to do in Christchurch having only opened up their doors in June.

    Located on the New Brighton seafront looking out to the pier, this area has a long history of salt water hot pools. The original “Howey’s Hydro Baths” were in a similar location a long while back, and at the time the salt-water baths were credited with curing some pretty intense ailments such as sciatica & rheumatism.

    Warm salt water is associated with a variety of healing benefits including: calming the nervous system, boosting circulation, easing muscular/joint inflammation and reducing general pain.

    About He Puna Taimoana

    I went on a Monday morning, hoping to avoid the weekend rush. Thanks to a limited booking system there are never too many people in the pools at once, and the views out to the ocean combined with chilled music playing softly somewhere into the background made for a super relaxing start to the day.

    The complex also has a wonderful steam room & sauna, a collection of hot pools, a cold plunge pool and an onsite cafe.

    Opening Hours: 10am-8pm, 7 days a week. Visit their site here to make a booking

    2. Explore the magnificent food-haven that is the Riverside Market

    When I first returned to Christchurch after a number of years away, I kept being told to see the Riverside Market. As proof Christchurch is recovering, that it’s bustling and up and coming and maybe even a little bit hipster.

    Turns out the Riverside market is all those things and more. While it spills out into a warren of charming laneways, the Riverside Market itself is all under cover making it a perfectly acceptable outing for a rainy winter day in the city.

    One of my perennial shopping favourites The Mediterranean Food company has opened up a smaller Tuscan Deli store in here, jostling up right next to one of my top ten Christchurch food experiences (for as long as I can remember) Dimitri’s Souvlaki, where you should go quite literally right now and order the lamb souvlaki. You can thank me later.

    Having just those two places opening up so close together was more than enough to lure me in. Yet, never in my wildest dreams was I expecting the eatery paradise I discovered inside.

    In the middle is a collective food market, a greengrocer, butcher, fishmonger. Dotted around lay specialty meats, cheeses, chocolatiers, and other specialty goods. Restaurants and bars fill the rest of the space and range from Sushi train and a ramen joint, Malaysian, Turkish, Argentine Barbecue, Vietnamese.. the list goes on and on, I could spend an entire winter hiding out in here taste testing everything.

    Needless to say, I am super impressed and plan to return many times. You can find the full (and very impressive) directory here: https://riverside.nz/directory

    Opening Hours: Open 7 days, varying hours depending on the eatery or store you’re headed to. Check out the Riverside Market site for a full map & list of vendors and their opening hours.

    3. Take a trip to the Lyttelton Market (bring your umbrella!)

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    • Lyttelton Market every Saturday

    Locals might argue that Lyttelton really isn’t quite Christchurch and thus shouldn’t be on a things to do in Christchurch list as much as it should be on a things to do near Christchurch one. But, nevertheless, here we are. It’s a quick drive (or bus trip) through the tunnel to discover one of my favourite hidden little towns of the South Island.

    The Lyttelton farmers market is a bit of a cultural institution, and is certainly a more lively hub of activity in the warmer months.

    Yet the show must go on, and the market continues through the year rain or shine full of live music, great food & an upbeat smalltown vibe.

    What to do at the Lyttelton market?

    Wandering down the bustling main street of Lyttelton on a Saturday morning you can pick up a fresh, hot coveted Hope river Pie, or swing by the Lyttelton Coffee Company for an excellent flat white and a spot of brunch (if you can get a table – it’s a popular choice for good reason!) Eruption Brewing is a local brewery who also make a great mulled wine, and if it’s cooler out they have the fire going too.

    If you’re into Pizza, Bomba Getato hand makes their pizzas & calzones with exceptional care (and an impressive overnight rising of their traditionally made dough) and sell amazing pizza slices & calzones out front during the market. Their gelato is also incredible if you don’t mind a frosty treat on a cool winter day!

    The best buy of the market itself (in my opinion) is the bread stall closest to the Oxford Street & London Street corner. Their Focaccia is some of the best I’ve ever had – but get in quick, they always sell out early!

    Opening Hours: Every Saturday, rain or shine – 10am – 1pm. Visit the market website here

    4. Snuggle with Cozy Kitties at Catnap, The Christchurch Cat Cafe

    • Six unique things to do in Christchurch this winter - Catnap Cat Cafe
    • Six unique things to do in Christchurch this winter - Catnap Cat Cafe
    • Six unique things to do in Christchurch this winter - Catnap Cat Cafe
    • Six unique things to do in Christchurch this winter - Catnap Cat Cafe
    • Six unique things to do in Christchurch this winter - Catnap Cat Cafe

    What’s more cozy than fuzzy little kittens pouncing about the place? Did I mention Catnap also whips up a wicked hot chocolate or flat white? Just make sure to keep your mug covered to protect from curious kitten tounges!

    Cat cafes have been taking off around the world, and finally Christchurch has its own. Set in a beautiful large space with lots of cat towers, play toys, couches & cozy nooks, this is an ideal place to while away the winter and maybe fall in love a few times over.

    Catnap also works with the Cats Protection League to rehome cats in need of a new loving family – so many of the felines you’ll meet may even be available for adoption.

    Everything about this place is charming, down to the cat shaped stirring spoons & kitten printed cushions.

    Opening Hours: Wednesday – Sunday 10am until 5pm. Bookings recommended. head to the Catnap website here to make a booking.

    5. See Real Kiwis in the Willowbank Nocturnal House

    When it comes to things to do in Christchurch (or in fact, New Zealand as a whole!) experiencing a sighting of a live kiwi bird should be up on your list! However, our nations emblem is actually extraordinarily rare.

    Most New Zealander’s will have never seen a kiwi in the wild, and only a small handful will have even heard them calling in the night.

    That’s why going to a nocturnal house is a great way to see these amazing little creatures for yourself, without spending many cold nights out in the deep bush trying to spot something so elusive.

    Willowbank has many other animals too, and I have many fond childhood memories of visiting the barnyard animals, rare tuatara lizard and huge conga eels here!

    Opening Hours: Willowbank is open 9:30am – 5.00pm 7 days a week throughout the year (Except Christmas Day) but the Kiwi nocturnal house opens a little later from 10:30. You can visit Willowbank’s website here

    6. Learn About our Shaky Past at Quake City Earthquake Museum.

    The devastating earthquakes of 2011 & 2012 reshaped the city of Christchurch – both figuratively and literally. For me personally, it was the last time I ever lived in Christchurch.

    Coming back 9 years later and the rebuild effort is amazing. Seeing my hometown blossoming back into something interesting, something more than a pile of rubble, is magnificent.

    This is why I think anybody who is not from Christchurch should spent time at Quake City, it is an amazingly well put together exhibit that really tells the story of the devastation, the rebuilt, and the resiliency of Cantabrians.

    Opening Hours: 10am – 5pm 7 days a week (except Christmas) You can learn more about Quake City here

    7. Warm your Insides with some Ramen & Dumplings at Little High Eatery

    I may be obsessed with ramen. It’s hard to know for sure, but ever since I visited Japan and experienced ramen in its full soupy, fatty, slurpy glory I’ve been forever changed.

    Since then, It’s become my mission to try and find ramen everywhere I go; in the hopes that someday I will find an experience as delicious as those I found in Japan. And what better way to warm your chilly body from the inside out this winter than a steaming hot bowl of noodles?

    That is exactly how I stumbled upon the Little High Eatery. My perpetual hunt for delicious ramen led me to try out Sushi Soldier for their house special pork & chicken bone broth with pork belly. It was pretty delicious, not gonna lie!

    But as it turns out, Little High Eatery is something between a food court and a night market paradise of delectable international foods eaten in a comment eating space.

    Currently eight different vendors reside here, so in addition to Sushi Soldier you’ll find: Little Social for coffee & drinks, Bacon Brothers for a burger bar, Eightgrains for boutique Chinese food & handmade dumplings, BASE Woodfired Pizza for pizza, El Fogón for Venezuelan inspired BBQ, Noodlemonk for Thai Stret Kitchen food, and Caribe Latin Kitchen for latin American.

    So if you can’t travel (like I can’t right now, thanks COVID-19!) you can at least come here to warm up and travel with your tastebuds.

    Opening Hours: sun: 8am – 10pm, mon – thurs: 7am – 10pm, fri – sat: 8am – 11pm, You can see a full map of eateries at their site here

    What do you like to do in Christchurch?

    I’m always looking for new things to check out! Leave your own suggestions in the comments, it doesn’t need to be winter friendly either, I’m curious for all seasons!

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    7 Unique Things to do in Christchurch this winter

  • Twenty-Three Novels to Transport You to Foreign Lands

    A long, long time before I was able to travel and discover the world with my hands, my taste, my senses; I discovered through books another way to explore the world and visit far off lands.

    Now that the traveling life is on a temporary hiatus (well at least for me, anyhow) it’s an even better time to get lost in a good book and allow it to take you on a journey around the world without needing to leave your home.

    Reading has sparked in me interests in countries I had never before considered. A good writer will have you engaging all your senses as you journey with them into a foreign destination – leaving you with memories so vivid it’s as if you were there.

    23 novels to transport you to foreign lands Anna Meanders

    Travel Reading: What Makes a Great Novel?

    I’m a sucker for excellent narrative and addictive writing style. So instead of serving you up a list of trashy holiday destination reads, today’s list is one of travel reading that features incredible storytelling by great authors who really will transport you to exotic countries around the globe.

    So, as I read my way around the world – let me share with you my absolute favourite novels to get lost in.

    Table of Contents for today’s itinerary (in case you want to skip ahead)

    1. The Kiterunner (Kabul, Afghanistan)
    2. The Secret Life of Bees (Georgia, Deep South USA)
    3. 40 Rules of Love (Thirteenth century Turkey and Iraq)
    4. The Mistress of Spices (A street corner in California, and the magical spice markets of further East)
    5. Little Paris Bookshop (Paris and through France following the Sienne)
    6. Like Water for Chocolate (Mexico)
    7. The Magus (Mythical islands of Greece)
    8. The Beach (The lush jungles and tropical beaches of Thailand)
    9. The Alchemist (Andulucia, Spain)
    10. Next Year in Havana (Havana)
    11. Where the Crawdads Sing (The Wild Marshlands of Florida)
    12. Still Life (Small-town Quebec)
    13. The Lost City of Z (the Amazon rainforest)
    14. The Last Storytellers (Morocco)
    15. Cinnamon City (Marrakesh)
    16. The Matchmaker of Perigord (Southwest France)
    17. Afternoons in Ithaka (Ithaka, Greece & Melbourne, Australia)
    18. The Little Breton Bistro (Brittany, France)
    19. The Gardener of Baghdad (Baghdad)
    20. The Snow Leopard (Nepal)
    21. Sapphos Leap (Lesvos, Greece)
    22. The Wind-up Bird Chronicle (Suburban Tokyo)
    23. Memoirs of a Geisha

    1. The Kiterunner Khaled Hosseini

    Will transport you to: Kabul, Afghanistan

    Travel reading: The Kite Runner, a novel by Khaled Hosseini.

    An epic tale by a spectacular author, this inter-generational story tells tales of family amidst some much darker themes. Hosseini’s writing style is so skilful that by the end you will feel you have run the dusty back streets of Kabul to feast on fistfuls of juicy pomegranates for yourself. A masterfully told story, that I read and reread and devour frequently, and continue to be heartbroken by.

    “It was only a smile, nothing more. It didn’t make everything all right. It didn’t make ANYTHING all right. Only a smile. A tiny thing. A leaf in the woods, shaking in the wake of a startled bird’s flight. But I’ll take it. With open arms. Because when spring comes, it melts the snow one flake at a time, and maybe I just witnessed the first flake melting.”

    Khaled Hosseini – The Kite Runner

    2. The Secret Life of Bees Sue Monk Kidd

    Will transport you to: Georgia – The American Deep South

    Travel reading: The Secret Life of Bees, a book by Sue Monk Kidd.

    Uplifting, beautiful and transformational. Sue Monk Kidd’s writing will pick up right up and plonk you down in the heart of a George peach farm. This story tells the tale of sisterhood, and the bond between mother and daughter through the eyes of 14-year-old Lily Owen. Set in the 1960’s to a background of racial violence, Lily runs away from her abusive father with her beloved nanny Rosaleen in search of her mother, who she shot and killed when she was just a baby.

    Everything from the language, the sights, the sounds and the smells will bring you to the deep South of America in this touching and often humorous (but always heartwarming) novel.

    “Now and then sprays of rain flew over and misted our faces. Every time I refused to wipe away the wetness. It made the world seem so alive to me. I couldn’t help but envy the way a good storm got everyone’s attention.”

    Sue Monk Kidd – The Secret Life of Bees

    3. The 40 Rules of Love: A Novel of Rumi Elif Shafak

    Will transport you to: Thirteenth century Turkey and Iraq

    Travel reading: The 40 Rules of Love, a novel of Rumi by Elif Shafak. A No

    East meets West when Ella Rubenstein is first introduced to the Eastern mystic Rumi and his companion Shams of Tabriz. Through editing a novel she begins to grow and learn more about herself and love. Although it sounds rather chick-lit-esque, this novel provides a beautiful integration of Rumi poetry and the life of these two wandering Dervishes. I didn’t initially love Ella’s character – but the wonderful narration of Rumi’s story, and beautiful integration of life in thirteenth century Middle East turned me around on this story. Most of the other characters are vibrant and fascinating, and the undercurrent of spirituality and love is interesting but not sickly.

    ”For Aziz, on the other hand, time entered on this very moment, and anything other than now was an illusion. For the same reason, he believed that love had nothing to do with plans for tomorrow, or memories of yesterday. Love could only be here and now”

    Elif Shafak – The 40 Rules of Love

    4. The Mistress of Spices Chitra Banerjee Divakaruni

    Will transport you to: A street corner in California, and the magical spice markets of the East

    Book Suggestions for Travel Reading: The Mistress of Spices by Chitra Banerjee Divakaruni

    Despite being set in LA, this novel is anything but. This magical story tells the tales of Tilo, a young woman from another time who has a gift for the art of spices. Through ingenious storytelling and a mouth-watering knack for choosing words, Chitra weaves a magic tale of love and spices from inside the walls of this incredible spice shop. Not only an excellent example of travel writing, but delectable food writing as well. An excellent read if you need transporting to somewhere rather magical and exotic.

    “Each spice has a special day to it. For turmeric it is Sunday, when light drips fat and butter-colored into the bins to be soaked up glowing, when you pray to the nine planets for love and luck.”

    Chitra Banerjee Divakaruni – The Mistress of Spices

    5. Little Paris Bookshop Nina George

    Will transport you to: Paris and through France following the Sienne.

    Travel reading: Little Paris Bookshop by Nina George.

    Skillful story telling, wonderful character development and delightful scene-setting make this delicious novel something special. Nina takes us to Paris, through the eyes of Monsieur Perdu. Monsieur Perdu lives aboard his beautifully restored barge on the Sienne – his literary apocathery. It is here that he prescribes books for all of life’s hardships. After suffering many years of heartbreak, he finally decides to haul up anchor and set sail down through small town France to discover what happened to his long lost love, all those years ago.

    This is a heartwarming & charming read full of vibrant characters and a truly French feel. You’ll come away from it feeling like you’ve just spent a month on the waters of the Sienne.

    “Books are more than doctors, of course. Some novels are loving, lifelong companions; some give you a clip around the ear; others are friends who wrap you in warm towels when you’ve got those autumn blues. And some…well, some are pink candy floss that tingles in your brain for three seconds and leaves a blissful voice. Like a short, torrid love affair”

    Nina George – Little Paris Bookshop

    6. Like Water for Chocolate Laura Esquivel

    Will transport you to: Vibrant and delicious (and often heartbreaking) Mexico

    Travel reading: Like Water for Chocolate by Laura Esquivel

    This gorgeous book has me pining for traditional Mexican dishes and time-traveling back to my numerous times spent in Mexico. A beautiful and at times devastating story of life, magic, feasts and recipes. This story is of Tito, the youngest daughter who has been condemned by traditions to look after her mother until she dies. But despite being forbidden to marry, she falls in love with Pedro. He, in turn, is utterly seduced by her cooking and in an act of desperation to stay near to her, marries her sister. It is only through a string of tragedies that the two lovers are finally reunited. A spellbinding story of life in turn-of-the-century Mexico.

    “Tita knew through her own flesh how fire transforms the elements, how a lump of corn flour is changed into a tortilla, how a soul that hasn’t been warmed by the fire of love is lifeless, like a useless ball of corn flour.”

    Laura Esquivel – Like Water for Chocolate

    7. The Magus John Fowles

    Will transport you to: Mythical islands of Greece

    Travel reading: The Magus by John Fowles

    This was the favourite book of both my parents. But it took me a few tries & my own visit to Greece to truly fall in love. It wasn’t until I re-read as an adult that I came to appreciate this book, and the immersive storytelling involved. A feast for the mind and senses, the Magus brings us to a remote Greek island where our protagonist, Nicholas Urfe, finds himself entangled in the psychological games of a master trickster. A true classic of exceptional writing, John Fowles uses exceptional imagery and mind-bending writing to transport readers to the mythical islands of Greece and the mysteries that lie within it.

    “If Greece were a woman so sensually provocative that I must fall physically and desperately in love with her, and at the same time so calmly aristocratic that I should never be able to approach her.”

    John Fowles – The Magus

    8. The Beach Alex Garland

    Will transport you to: The lush jungles and tropical beaches of Thailand

    Travel Book Recommendation: The Beach by Alex Garland

    Many people know of the Leonardo DiCaprio film..but in my opinion, I prefer the novel. In search of his own personal paradise, Richard follows a map he’s given to an unknown island, and the secluded beach contained within. With it comes a new way of life, and revelations more exciting, more extraordinary and more frightening than anything of his wildest dreams. A true tale of intrepid travel and adventure, this thrilling story is a lush insight into Asia and Thailands most paradise-worthy beaches.

    “If I’d learnt one thing from travelling, it was that the way to get things done was to go ahead and do them. Don’t talk about going to Borneo. Book a ticket, get a visa, pack a bag, and it just happens.”

    Alex Garland – The Beach

    9. The Alchemist Paulo Coelho

    Will transport you to: Andulucia, Spain

    Travel reading: The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho

    An epic classic of monumental proportions. Although a short read, over 2 million readers consider this novel a must-read masterpiece. A well loved universal classic that tells the tale of an Andalusian shepherd boy on a journey to follow his dream, and the revelations, characters and events that happen along the way. One of these, of course, happens to be the alchemist. And so begins a beautiful mentor-student relationship and a story that lingers in your heart and mind for long after you’ve read it.

    “We are travelers on a cosmic journey, stardust, swirling and dancing in the eddies and whirlpools of infinity. Life is eternal. We have stopped for a moment to encounter each other, to meet, to love, to share.This is a precious moment. It is a little parenthesis in eternity.”

    Paulo Coelho – The Alchemist

    10. Next Year in Havana Chanel Cleeton

    Will transport you to: Havana

    Travel reading: Next Year in Havana by Chanel Cleeton

    After the death of her beloved grandmother, a Marisol Ferrera travels to Havana, where her Grandmother grew up. This story captivated me completely. I read it in just a few days, rapturously.

    It tells the tale of two stories at once – modern day Marisol and that of her grandmother living as a wealthy sugar heir during the Cuban revolution.

    It’s a must read to better understand more of the culture and history of such an incredible, resilient, and fascinating place.

    “For many being Cuban is something they carry with them in their hearts, something they fight to preserve even when all they have are their memories. When they left, they couldn’t take anything with them. No photographs, no official documents, no family heirlooms or mementos. That kind of exile makes you angry.”

    Chanel Cleeton – Next Year in Havana

    11. Where the Crawdads Sing Delia Owens

    Will transport you to: The wild marshes of North Carolina

    Travel reading: Where the Crawdads Sing by Delia Owens

    As a wildlife lover, this story written by a wildlife scientist spoke to my adoration of the natural world. Delia Owens tells a marvellous tale of murder, mystery, womanhood, growing up, and love – amidst many other themes. But what really speaks to me, what made this book unforgettable and kept it glued to my fingertips until the very last page was the incredible descriptive writing of the North Carolina Marsh and all that inhabit it.

    “Sometimes she heard night-sounds she didn’t know or jumped from lightning too close, but whenever she stumbled, it was the land who caught her. Until at last, at some unclaimed moment, the heart-pain seeped away like water into sand. Still there, but deep. Kya laid her hand upon the breathing, wet earth, and the marsh became her mother.”

    Delia Owens – Where the Crawdads Sing

    12. Still Life Louise Penny

    Will transport you to: Smalltown Quebec

    Travel reading: Still Life by Louise Penny

    After being introduced to the Inspector Gamache series I immediately became drawn to the pull of exploring Quebec.

    Louise Penny has a knack for developing those kinds of places and characters you’d love to jump on in with and spend some time, and each of these I read brings me closer and closer to planning my own visit to the smaller towns of the French Canadian region.

    “Everyday for Lucy’s entire dog life Jane had sliced a banana for breakfast and had miraculously dropped one of the perfect disks on to the floor where it sat for an instant before being gobbled up. Every morning Lucy’s prayers were answered, confirming her belief that God was old and clumsy and smelt like roses and lived in the kitchen.

    But no more.

    Lucy knew her God was dead. And she now knew the miracle wasn’t the banana, it was the hand that offered the banana.”

    Louise Penny, – Still Life

    13. The Lost City of Z David Grann

    Will transport you to:  The Amazon Rainforest

    Travel Reading: The Lost City of Z David Grann

    I read this book somewhere incredibly far removed from the wet, hot, dense Amazon jungle. Instead I was in a toast warm yurt out on the Mongolian Steppe with snow falling outside. I picked up this book, and I spent the entire day reading it – until I’d finished. I quite literally didn’t put it down (other than a dinner break!)

    I’m obsessed with the Amazon. The river, the rainforest, the region – in fact, I’m obsessed with jungles, trees, plants, wildlife and all things wild, really.

    Excerpt: For decades scientists & adventurers have searched for evidence of Fawcett’s party & the lost City of Z. Countless have perished, been captured by tribes or gone mad. As Grann delved ever deeper into the mystery surrounding Fawcett’s quest, & the greater mystery of what lies within the Amazon, he found himself, like the generations who preceded him, being irresistibly drawn into the jungle’s green hell. His quest for the truth & discoveries about Fawcett’s fate & Z form the heart of this complexly enthralling narrative

    “It begins as barely a rivulet, this, the mightiest river in the world, mightier than the Nile and the Ganges, mightier than the Mississippi and all the rivers in China.”

    David Grann – The Lost City of Z: A Tale of Deadly Obsession in the Amazon

    14. The Last Storytellers Richard Hamilton

    Will transport you to:  Morocco

    Travel Books: The Last Storytellers Richard Hamilton

    When I visited Morocco for the very first time, I was lured into the magic of North Africa by learning about the storytellers.

    Those who would have crowds gathering around in the the Jemaa el Fna square of Marrakech to tell stories. There is a saying in Marrakech that “when a storyteller dies, a library burns.”

    This book is a collection of such stories, written down finally to keep them alive and save them from being lost along with the traditional storytellers. It’s absolutely mesmerising.

    “And so lie after lie, little by little, the Sahara gradually came into existence, as God threw grains of sand onto the earth from the heavens above. But here and there the odd oasis can still be seen. These are the traces of the original garden, because not all men lie.”

    Richard Hamilton – The Last Storytellers

    15. Cinnamon City Miranda Innes

    Will transport you to:  Marrakech

    Destination reading: Cinnamon City by Miranda Innes

    Miranda Innes bought a dilapidated riad to renovate, and so begins an insiders tale of life, riads, and renovations in Morocco. This story is focused primarily on the experience of buying and renovating a house in Marrakesh, but also dips and delves into everyday life in the Cinnamon City of Marrakesh.

    Full of flavours, fragrances, and complications of moving to a foreign country, this is an easy read for a swift dip into Moroccan life.

    16. The Matchmaker of Périgord Julia Stuart

    Will transport you to:  A small village in Southwest France

    Destination reading: The Matchmaker of Perigord by Julia Stuart

    This novel is almost as charming as the Périgord region itself. When Guillaume Ladoucette’s barbershop faces certain redundancy, he must find a new way to earn a keep in his small village in the Southwest of France.

    This is how Guillaume finds himself starting up in the business of love, and becoming a matchmaker. But his attempts are somewhat disastrous, often hilarious and utterly delightful.

    A light and easy read – I found it an excellent pick-me-up read that transported me right back to smalltown France.

    “Love is like a good cassoulet, it needs time and determination. Some bits are delicious, while others might be a bit rancid and make you wince. You may even come across the odd surprise like a little green button, but you have to consider the whole dish.”

    ? Julia Stuart, The Matchmaker of Périgord

    17. Afternoons in Ithaka Spiri Tsintziras

    Will transport you to:  The island of Ithaka, Greece

    Destination Reading, Greece: Afternoons in Ithaka by Spiri Tsintziras

    Part memoir of Greek ancestry, and part recipe book. Spiri brings Greek food and culture to life in a way that had me drooling onto the page and recounting just how enchanted I was by Greece during my own time there.

    Afternoons in Ithaka reflects on life, family, love and creativity. It traverses between her many trips between Australia and Greece, and brings together what it means to be Greek growing up in Australia.

    ‘I remember crusty just-baked bread, rubbed with juicy tomato flesh, swimming in a puddle of thick green olive oil. I am seven years old. I sit on a stool in my grandmother’s house. It is the height of summer in a seaside village in the south of Greece. We little Aussies devour ‘tomato sandwiches’ as the family chats and laughs and swats flies …

    Afternoons in Ithaka Spiri Tsintziras

    18. The Little Breton Bistro Nina George

    Will transport you to:  Brittany, Western France

    Destination Reading France: The Little Breton Bistro by Nina George

    Nina George has made her way into two spots on this list with her wonderful ways of transporting us right into the heart of France. First with The Little Paris Bookshop, and now with the Little Breton Bistro, her writing continues to be full of heart, beautiful writing, and narrative I want to follow through until the very last page.

    The Little Breton Bistro is a tale of second chances and falling in love with a host of unforgettable locals.

    After having spent a handful of summers living in Bretagne for myself, I loved how much Breton folklore and stories were brought into this book. It’s a wonderful way to explore a part of France many people don’t get to.

    “Court bouillon, made with carrot, shallot, leek, garlic, celeriac, herbs, water and Muscadet, was the heart and soul of Breton cuisine. Langoustines blossomed in it, and crabs drowned in bliss; skinned duck or vegetables simmered in it to perfection. The stock grew stronger with each use and would keep for three days. It formed the base for sauces, and a shot glass of sieved court bouillon could turn a mediocre fish stew into a regular feast.”

    Nina George – The Little French Bistro

    19. The Gardener of Baghdad Ahmad Ardalan

    Will transport you to:  Baghdad, Iraq

    SY

    “Two people, one city, different times; connected by a memoir. Can love exist in a city destined for decades of misery?”

    A heartfelt tale of the conflict and tragedy facing Iraq; a forbidden love story between two people from very different worlds and times in Iraqs history, and the romance of living and surviving in these two very different worlds today.

    The Gardener of Baghdad is a must read for anyone who’s not known more of Iraq than a war torn country. For those who want to know the beauty, culture and history of Iraq.

    20. The Snow Leopard Peter Matthiessen
    Will transport you to:  The Himalayas of Nepal

    SY

    When I was traveling in Nepal this book was on every book shelf, every store, in the hands of most hikers wandering down the streets of Kathmandu.

    It’s a classic for a reason, it is a radiant and deeply moving account of a “true pilgrimage, a journey of the heart.” as Peter Matthiessen spent five weeks hiking through the Nepalese Himalayas to study the Himalayan blue sheep and, possibly, to glimpse the rare snow leopard.

    “The secret of the mountain is that the mountains simply exist, as I do myself: the mountains exist simply, which I do not. The mountains have no “meaning,” they are meaning; the mountains are. The sun is round. I ring with life, and the mountains ring, and when I can hear it, there is a ringing that we share. I understand all this, not in my mind but in my heart, knowing how meaningless it is to try to capture what cannot be expressed, knowing that mere words will remain when I read it all again, another day.”

    — Peter Matthiessen (The Snow Leopard)

    21. Sapphos Leap Erica Jong
    Will transport you to:  The Island of Lesbos, Greece

    I found myself immersed in Erica Jong’s recreation of the poet Sapphos after myself spending time on the Island of Lesbos, home of Sapphos – the greatest love poet the world has even known.

    This book is, in true Jong style, rather amorous.. so if you’re not into that kind of story, perhaps give this one a miss. Otherwise swan dive into this magnificent story, taking us from Lesbos to Delphi to Egypt, and even to the Land of the Amazons and the realm of Hades.

    “Without the gods, how would I sing?’ I asked.
    With your own voice,’ he said.”

    — Erica Jong (Sappho’s Leap)

    22. The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle Haruku Murakami

    Will transport you to:  Suburban Tokyo

    I always describe Murakami’s books like being in a dream. Nothing makes sense, but the storytelling is so compelling that you emotionally invest and go along for the ride all the same.

    He is one of the most talented storytellers I know of, and all of his magical, surreal books include the most wonderful of characters, delving into suburban Tokyo life, classical music and talking cats. I can’t really describe this book in any further detail – but I do highly recommend it for an incredible journey.

    “What we see before us is just one tiny part of the world. We get in the habit of thinking, this is the world, but that’s not true at all. The real world is a much darker and deeper place than this, and much of it is occupied by jellyfish and things.”

    — Haruki Murakami (The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle)

    23. Memoirs of a Geisha Arthur Golden

    Will transport you to:  The Gion district of Kyoto

    A work of beauty, each time I devour this novel I am transported back to Gion, Kyoto. A city I fell in love with at first site, this story is a tragic and beautiful account of the life of a Geisha. The language is strikingly lovely, and I could read this over and over just for the experience of highlighting new favourite passages.

    While there is some controversy, and ultimately a much more fascinating story would come from the true memoirs of a Geisha – this is still a fascinating introduction to Japanese culture and a great way to escape to a foreign land for a few evenings.

    “At the temple there is a poem called “Loss” carved into the stone. It has three words, but the poet has scratched them out. You cannot read loss, only feel it.”

    — Arthur Golden (Memoirs of a Geisha)

    What have I missed?

    I’d adore some more book recommendations focused on different countries & cultures, ways to spend this current time of stillness traveling through exotic countries and other cultures in my imagination – so let me know in the comments what I should read next.

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    23 novels to transport you to foreign lands Anna Meanders
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