I’ve never been content with surface-level travel. These posts are about going deeper—learning to cook traditional recipes with local families, understanding the stories behind the places I visit, and sometimes staying long enough to feel like a temporary local rather than a passing tourist. It’s messy, challenging, and absolutely transformative.
What makes a town magic? It’s such a powerful concept that many countries around the world have adopted their own ways of recognising beautiful & culturally significant hotspots to preserve, protect & promote. France has the Ville Fleurie, Colombia the Pueblo Patrimonio, and Guatemala have Pueblos Pintorescos – in Mexico, it’s the Pueblos Mágicos.
The Pueblos Mágicos highlight the towns in the country deemed to be the most truly magical. Currently, there are 132 Pueblos Mágicos recognised across Mexico with six of those in the state of Oaxaca, each of them a wonderful day trip or weekend getaway from Oaxaca City, which is easily one of the best vacation spots in Mexico.
Exploring the beauties of Mexico beyond the more typical tourist sites is a worthy pursuit, the country has far more to offer beyond resort towns and taquerias. Oaxaca immediately became such a precious state to me, a fusion of incredible history, culture, hospitality, and beauty – the whole state is a work of magic in its own right.
Mazunte is magic for tortugas
Nowadays, Mazunte is arguably the most well known of Oaxaca’s Pueblos Mágicos – word has gotten out that this chilled out little beach town is not like the others. The vibe is truly laid back, there’s not a resort in site. Each nook and cranny of the truly charming town feels like it’s been dusted in a special kind of fairy dust.
This town just glows, and I don’t mean that because it’s become a yoga and meditation paradise with juguerias, smoothie bowls and mindfulness retreats abound.
Human wellness aside, Mazunte is home to spectacular natural beauty. It is the only coastal Pueblo Mágico in Oaxaca, and the beaches are magnificent. Forested hills creep down to golden sandy beaches, dusty paths and coconut palms line the mostly unpaved roads; from up at the Mermejita lookout you can spy migrating whales and magestic sea turtles in the sparkling ocean, and down at the Ventanilla mangroves live crocodiles and herons.
One of the most magic things about Mazunte is the connection here to tortugas, or sea turtles. Some legends have it that the word Mazunte is derived from the Nahuatl maxotetia, meaning something along the lines of “please deposit eggs here.” because of how many sea turtles come here to lay their eggs.
Thankfully turtle poaching was banned in Mazunte, and in its place the Mexican National Turtle Center was born.
Capulálpam de Méndez is magic for the nature
If you venture eastward from Oaxaca City, up into the Sierra Juarez for around two hours you will find your self in the magical small town of Capulálpam de Méndez. This town was the first in Oaxaca to earn the prestigious Pueblo Mágico title.
The name Capulalpam means “land of the chokecherry tree” in Nahuatl, named after a variety of tree found here in abundance. The name fits well such a place: further up into the evevated mountain ranges than Oaxaca City, sprawling with forests and a perpetually cool and wet climate lending itself to verdant greenery and maginficent views.
It is here where you can find a traditional indigenous medicine center, created by the OMJSJO (Organización de Médicos Indígenas de la Sierra Juarez de Oaxaca) which serves to conserve indigenous population’s knowledge of traditional medicine and local plants.
In the surrounding area you’ll find many cabins to rent, forest walks, zip lining at Centro Recreativo Los Molinos, spectacular views at El Calvario, horse riding and lots of trout to eat, a fish which is so readily available here that it shapes the local cuisine. Capulálpam de Méndez is a well maintained small town with plenty of eco tourism offerings, and a wonderful spot to escape the city and breathe in some fresh mountain air.
Huautla de Jimenez is magic for rituals & mushrooms
The town of Huautla de Jimenez is steeped in magic, ritual, and an infamous history of María Sabina the Mazatec priestess, and her psychoactive mushroom rituals, which inevitably spurred the psychedelic movement in America. Although María is no longer living, and the village has suffered the consequences of western tourists seeking psychoactive rituals, it is nowadays a traquil and beautiful town to visit and is home to both a museum and annual festival in María’s honour.
The Museo Casa de María Sabina is found at María’s former house, turned museum at Calle de Hidalgo No. 30. The building is decorated with photos of María Sabina with many of her famous guests, different paintings inspired by her and the journeys she led, and many other interesting tributes to her.
Then when July comes, the town bursts into celebration for the Festival Internacional María Sabina, focused celebrating natural medicine. During the festival, healers and shamans come from across Mexico to join in and perform rituals. There are also numerous cultural events handicrafts for sale during the festival.
In Nahuatl, the name means “Place of the Eagles” and this remote mountain town does not dissappoint on the nature front, too. Explore the coniferous forests, visit the Puente de Fierro Waterfall, or take a guided walk up to see the incredible views & experience the cultural and shamanic significance of Cerro de la Adoración (Devotion Hill).
San Pablo Villa de Mitla is magic for the land of the dead
The first time I visited Mexico I had the luck of visiting the Mitla archeological ruins, one of Oaxaca’s most important archeological sites. I was swept away in a whirlwind of history, archeology, and myth out in the magical Sierra Madre del Sur mountains.
It’s difficult to describe the immense sense of importance you can feel around the San Pablo Villa de Mitla and Mitla ruins, but the feeling is pervasive and important. The ruins are an ancient, re-Columbian burial site, known as the place of the dead. Those buried here were destined to become “cloud people”, supernatural beings in Zapotec belief who lived among the clouds, and at death would return to the clouds once more.
One of the most captivating details for me of Mitla, a memory which persists from ten years ago now, is the intricate mosaic/geometic patterns known as grecas. These polished stone tiles are held together only by the weight of the other tiles which surround them, and are completely mortarless. The patterns of the tiles all tell stories, each has a meaning, and no design is repeated exactly the same anywhere else in Mitla – these designs are unique in all of Mesoamerica, which I find incredible.
The surrounding village of San Pablo Villa de Mitla is a cultural hub full of handicrafts markets, traditional dance classes, and very good locally produced mezcal. For the culture, history and architecture, this truly is a Pueblo Mágico.
San Pedro y San Pablo Teposcolula is magical because of architecture & Mixtec culture
Just two hours out of Oaxaca city you will find the magnificent San Pedro y San Pablo Teposcolula, a beautiful small town hued purple due to an abundance of magnificent orchids which grow naturally all over the town.
Amidst the cobbled streets and famous arcitecture, one thing not to miss is the House of the Cacica, possibly the most famous building in town – a 16th century palace where the last queen of the Mixtec culture lived.
The historical center is home to the magnificent terracotta and white Palacio Municipal, with a large garden in front, the perfect spot to take a stroll in the morning and enjoy the cool weather before the day heats up. Teposcolula is a great spot to enjoy some particular Oaxacan deliacies: pozole with hierba santa, tamales with champurrado, mole amarillo, and chiles rellenos.
Santa Catarina Juquila is magical because of tradition
Nestled into the La Sierra Madre mountains south of Oaxaca city you will find Santa Catarina Juquila, the sixth and final Oaxacan Pueblo Mágico of this list. A natural wonderland surrounded by forests of topehuaje, blackwood, mahogany and jacaranda, where badgers and armadillo roam, Santa Catarina Juquila is one of the most significant religious pilgrimage sites in all of Mexico and a site of natural beauty in the region.
One of the most important landmarks of Santa Catarina Juquila is the Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora Inmaculada de Juquila, an 18th century neoclassical sanctuary which sees large numbers of pilgrims coming to visit the important 30 cm statue of the Virgen de Juquila – especially in the month of December.
Wandering around the town you will hear the indigenous language of Chatino spoken, find numerous wood carving workshops crafting intracite figures and virgins, see steelwork and knives being made, and experience the traditional art of chatinos embroideries. There are many handicrafts to discover in the town!
But the township aside, the area surrounding Santa Catarina Juquila has a number of beautiful views, forest, rivers, and waterfalls to explore, especially the Chorro Conejo Waterfall, and the natural fresh water spa of Río Olla – which is touted as a place of peace and tranquity, the perfect spot to spend a day getting back in touch with nature.
In hindsight you could say I’d become mildly obsessed, I suppose. I had my eyes set firmly on one of the most undiscovered, inhospitable corners of the earth and I couldn’t help but dream of someday getting to the Amazon. As it turns out, it’s much more straight forward to plan a weekend getaway in the Colombian Amazon than one might think.
It was my thirty second birthday and we’d come to Leticia. Before our plane even landed, I was enamoured. A city that lines the corners where Colombia meets Brazil and Peru, one built on stilts around the magnificent Amazonas and celebrates diversity, multiculturalism, and traditional jungle life.
A lively hub of multiculturalism meets jungle and South American life. A laid back and easy going life on the river where the markets are flush full of pineapple and brightly coloured canoes park up at the riverbanks to trade in riverfish.
Initially the first two nights were spent up in a treehouse, admiring new-growth jungle from our teetering traditional Maloka, then we moved into Leticia for the rest of the week.
“The rain forest was not a garden of easy abundance, but precisely the opposite. Its quiet, shaded halls of leafy opulence were not a sanctuary, but rather the greatest natural battlefield anywhere on the planet, hosting an unremitting and remorseless fight for survival that occupied every single one of its inhabitants, every minute of every day.”
Leticia has two seasons – the high water season (or the flooding season) and the low water season. The High Water season starts on February and lasts through late June. This is when I visited (In May) During this season, the Amazon river and its tributaries rise more than 20 meters, flooding all of the Varzeas areas. This was an incredible opportunity to navigate through the jungle in areas that aren’t normally doused in water, and visit different lakes via canoe.
Stilt houses on the riverside in Leticia
What to do in and around Leticia
Leticia is tiny, but boy is it mighty – it packs so much vibrancy and energy into a small space, and holds so much culture and diversity within it. Many people who recommend a visit to Leticia only suggest a day (at most) to explore this town, with the rest spent on tours out into the wider Amazon. But I disagree – give at least a full day to this magical town, but probably more. It may just surprise you.
Get yourself to the otherworldly bird show at Parque Santander, from 5.30pm each night many thousands of parrots come home to roost in the park, it’s more incredible that you can imagine (or than I can explain here)
Pay a visit to the Museo Etnográfico. A small, free museum which is packed full of fascinating cultural and historical information and artifacts from Leticia and the surrounding Amazon region
Wander on over to Brazil and visit Tabatinga, a town that’s connected to Leticia by road (and footpath) but is part of Brazil.
Take a quick boat to the middle of the river and visit the Peruvian island of Santa Rosa de Yavarí to eat some ceviche
Walk the riverside boardwalk, especially lovely around sunset! And see boats trading goods, and people hanging out by the water enjoying the evening.
Visit the market for fresh fish, fruits and other produce
Get out on a boat trip to Lago Tarapoto, where you can spot magestic botos – endangered Amazonian river dolphins.
Take a trip out to Isla de los Micos (Monkey Island) a natural reserve on an island that’s home to over 5,000 friendly (but wild, not contained) squirrel monkeys
Visit the magnificent Victoria Amazonica(giant waterlilies) of the Amazon at the Victoria Amazonica natural reserve, a quick 15 minutes boat trip from Leticia
Giant waterlilies at the Victoria Amazonica natural reserve
What do you eat in the Amazon rainforest?
Fish from the river no surprises here – river fish is one of the most abundant food sources around, and you can get yourself a delicious grilled fish at just about any restaurant in town. You can try pirarucu (one of the largest freshwater fish on earth) and even piranha (which are delicious, it turns out)
Plantains fried up and served with everything plantains are the ubiquitous starch of Central and South America. Leticia is no different, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t indulge. Also make sure to try fish cooked in a parcel of plantain leaves – so delicious!
Yuca (manioc/cassava) another starchy vegetable that holds high regard in the region is the yuca. There are so many different varieties, and ways to use or eat it. It can be roasted and mashed, used as a thickener, even fermented into a spicy paste. The yuca is also used for ceremonial purposes, and different varieties are grown by various indigenous groups widely throughout the Amazon.
Limonada de coco is a Colombian staple, and you’ll find it all around the country. But it feels especially refreshing here amidst the sticky heat of the jungle and is perfect after a long day of hiking and canoeing.
Where did I stay in Leticia?
Whether you’re looking for an authentic jungle camp, or something a little more familiar, there are a number of choices for stays in Leticia. Hotel Anaconda is a famous tourists choice for a little more luxury, but I opted to stay first in treehouses, then in a reasonably priced guesthouse/hostel with fan cooled rooms and a pool.
Reserva Natural Tanimboca: This is a nature reserve built on new-growth jungle. I stayed two nights in their traditional Amazonian treehouses and took advantage of the night jungle tours, included meals, and zip-lining/river canoeing package.
Hostel Casa de las Palmas was my stay in the Leticia township. They were fun, friendly, even spoke great English (unexpected! but helpful to know) and provided well priced rooms, with a fan and a shared kitchen/bathroom/pool in great walking distance from downtown Leticia. Also organise some excellent tours there that I really enjoyed.
Languages Spoken in Leticia
The primary language of Leticia is Spanish. However, many indigenous people bring their own languages with them which are spoken here, so you can often hear the languages of Tucano, Nukak, Witoto , Inga,and Ticuna people spoken.
Due to the proximity to the Brazilian border, Portuguese is also quite widely used; and due to the tourism sector you will find some people around who speak English. But it’s far less common than other more heavily touristed parts of South America.
Sunset on Lagos Yahuarcaca
How to get to Leticia
There are very few ways to arrive here. By plane from Bogota is the most common, but because Leticia is not connected to anywhere via road it’s not possible to bus, drive, or train. The airport is serviced by two airlines, both fly only to Bogota. The only other way to come is by the way of a river boat from Peru or Brazil. Some of the possible ways by boat:
Take a Peru water taxi from nearby Santa Rosa de Yavarí, Peru.
Catch twice per day boat ( ~4 hours upstream, ~2 hours downstream travel time) from Caballococha, Peru.
There are some boat services running from Iquitos, Peru. They vary in time, the fast boat is around 12 hours and the slow boat 3 days.
You can come from Manaus, Brazil via slow or fast boat, both options are long journeys! It will take around 5-7days for the slow boat, and 1.5 – 2 days for the fast boat It arrives into Tabatinga, where you can then cross into Leticia (and therefore, into Colombia)
Important notes on Yellow Fever
It’s essential that you have been vaccinated against yellow fever at least 15 days before coming to Leticia, so make sure you do that well in advance and carry your yellow fever certificate with you.
For more information on Leticia, the Amazon, and Colombia:
Jardin de Balata hadn’t originally made it onto my to-do list, but as I slipped through a hillside tropical paradise of palms, ferns, tropical flowers and flitting hummingbirds I quickly realised what a mistake missing this would’ve been. It seems obvious now, that Martinique, the place known as the island of flowers would be a good place to visit some gardens!
Horticulturist and poet Jean-Phillipe Thoze began cultivating the garden of his dreams, travels and childhood memories on the land of his grandmother’s traditional creole home in 1982. By 1986 (coincidentally, the year I was born), he opened up his masterpiece to the public and put on display the many different varieties of tropical plants he had collected from his many trips around the world.
Nowadays you can spot around 3,000 varieties of tropical plants, gathered from all around the globe, and you can loose yourself for hours admiring the abundance of begonias, magnificent bromeliads, anthuriums, water lilies, and an impressive 300 varieties of palm trees.
It was humid and drizzly on arriving, in the most charming of misty-tropical-jungle type ways. Everything was lush and green, hummingbirds were abundance and in every possible way it felt like paradise.
The entrance is the glorious traditional house where you pay your entrance fee, and the super friendly staff do also speak English if you need it! Once we’d made our way inside, we were immediately treated to a swarm of beautiful hummingbirds feeding on the bird feeders tethered to the verandah, looking out over breathtaking view across the rainforest.
The Treetop Canopy Walk
A new attraction to the Jardin de Balata is the treetop canopy walk, which allows you up high on robe bridges to see the gardens from, quite literally, new heights. It does get quite high up, and the experience is magnificent. It’s a beautiful way to experience even more levels of the garden, and sweeping views out to the The Pitons du Carbet, the nearby hills which are the guardians of Balata!
Getting to Jardin de Balata
It’s an easy drive from Fort-de-france, and on this occasion we brought our rental car over here as a part of a larger road trip around the Northern parts of Martinique. From Fort-de-france, take the Morne Rouge exit by the route de la trace. If you’re coming from the other side (St Pierre) then take the exit at the bottom of the descent, in the direction of Morne Rouge on the route de la trace.
But you can also arrive via public transport by using the bus from Fort-de-france, To do this, take line L25 from Fort de France, the route travels from Aliker to Jardin de Balata. Get off the bus just outside the exit. This bus travels approximately every 30 mins except for on Sundays and public holidays. The fare costs around €1.50 and takes 20 minutes to arrive.
Best time to visit Jardin de Balata
There isn’t a bad time to visit, although if you ask the staff they’ll let you know afternoons are the best time for some tranquility. It rains a lot up here, and if you read some guides they will say it rains year round at this height! But I went in the rain and the mist was magical, and certainly not a reason to hesitate visiting.
What to look out for .. Flora
The extraordinary grounds are home to around 3000 species of tropical plants (See the full collection here) from as far afield as Malaysia, Guyana, Phillipines, Jamaica, Madagascar, Ecuador, China, Japan, West Indies, South Pacific, Brazil, Australia, India, Mexico, Réunion, Colombia, Sumatra, Solomon Islands, Vietnam, Egypt, New Zealand, Peru, Cameroon, Indonesia, Java.. amongst others.
Some things to look out for on your stroll around the gardens:
Towering White Latanier (Bismarckia nobilis)
Porcelain Rose (Phaeomeria magnifica)
South American bromeliads(Bromeliaceae)
Hanging lobster claw(Heliconia rostrata)
Laceleaf(Anthurium)
Balisiers(including Heliconia caribaea purpurea)
Red Alpinia(Alpinia purpurata)
Hibiscus (Hibiscus)
Wild orchids(Orchidaceae)
Exotic water lilies(Nymphaeaceae)
Variegated pandanus(Pandanus baptistii variegata)
Bamboo(Bambusa vulgaris)
Cinnamon tree(Cinnamomum zeylanicum)
Philodendrums(various varieties)
Ti plant / palm lily (Cordilyne terminalis) Which have come from New Zealand!
What to look out for .. Fauna
There are not many creatures whom live at the Jardin de Balata, but if you look carefully there are some wonderful species to be seen. While you’re exploring, keep your eyes peeled for the following:
Frogs Martinique is home to four species of frog, and one toad – if you’re lucky, you may spot one lounging about on the lillypads in one of the ponds.
Green geckos / Anoli(Anolis fuscoauratus) these little critters are one of the most likely visitors you’ll spot here! They love lazing in the sun and scurrying around the plans.
Hummingbird there are four types of hummingbird in Martinique – the crested hummingbird (Orthorhyncus cristatus), the falle-vert hummingbird (Eulampis holosericeus)– The blue-headed hummingbird (Cyanophaia bicolor) and the Madeira hummingbird (Eulampis jugularis). During my visit, the falle-vert, or purple throated carib was the main hummingbird I spotted, but if you keep an eye out you can spot the others too!
Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola) Known locally as sucrier à ventre jaune, these pretty little birds are noticeably by their bright yellow chests, and enjoy hanging around the gardens.
Matoutou Falaise (Antilles pinktoe tarantula) the avicularia versicolor, also called Matoutou Falaise, is a protected species here in Martinique where it’s a native species, it is absolutely forbidden to capture one of these treasures… It is considered to be one of the most beautiful tarantulas in the world, they are born blue, and change color as they grow up. It is the queen of Jardin de Balata and if you’re extra lucky you might spot one (I didn’t though, maybe next time!)
Butterflies it’s only natural that the island of flowers also plays home to a host of colourful butterflies. From swallowtails to Junonias, you’ll spot beautiful butterflies fluttering around the flowers here.
What to do Nearby
On your way back down to Fort de France, don’t forget to stop in at the Balata Cathedral (Sacré-Cœur de Balata) It was built in 1925 as an exact replica of Sacré-Cœur in Montmartre, Paris.
Alternatively, you can continue on to the north and explore the city of St Pierre, a city formally known as the Paris of the Caribbean before it was destroyed by a volcanic eruption in 1902. Nowadays, it’s still a wonderful place to visit as there are many historic remains, and the Musée vulcanologique Franck Perret, which is a fascinating volcanological museum.
Despite the year being utterly bizarre, it seems to be over about as quickly as it began! It’s hard to imagine a year ago I was in Martinique, planning for a North American Christmas visit then onto Tokyo for New Years!
It’s not been the 2020 we wanted, but it’s the 2020 we’ve got – and although it’s been challenging, there’s been a lot of good too. This is what I’d like to focus on, all the good bits that managed to slip through the cracks of a chaotic and strange year.
I’ve been so thankful to spend a year back home with my family, rediscovering my fabulous home country and living a much less transitory existence than I am normally used to. Buying a car, renting an apartment, having a small garden – none of these were on the forecast for this year, yet I am enjoying the change of pace that comes with these things.
This blog has been on a bit of a hiatus – so much so, in fact, that I didn’t post a November update. That’s because life got real busy all of a sudden with university exams, relocating up to Auckland, and my first attempt at celebrating US thanksgiving!
But things haven’t been entirely static, you may notice a new design on the site that I’ve been working away on migrating to, and a new photo blog section to contain more short-form and image based updates, as well as a brand new newsletter design & content! So stay tuned, as things around here are gearing up for more travel writing and updates as we plough on ahead into a new year!
There is an over abundance of information on New Zealand out there, and for good reason – it’s a super popular tourism spot and people want more information before planning their trip!
But today, I promise you – this is not an itinerary nor is it a packing list.
This is an encyclopaedia of sorts, an alphabet of things that a local (me!) thinks people should know to better understand not just the tourist sites, but also the culture of this beautiful country.
So read on, for an A to Z of things you probably never realised you needed to know about beautiful Aotearoa.
Aotearoa is the M?ori name for New Zealand, and the most popular direct translation for the word means land of the long white cloud which refers to the cloud formations Polynesian navigators used to find the country to begin with.
You will find this name used frequently when referring to the country also known as New Zealand.
How to Pronounce Aotearoa? If you’re unsure how to pronounce this, watch the video below:
B is for Beaches
New Zealand is made up of many different islands, which means we are a nation with beaches just about every where you look! No matter where you are in the country, it’s never too far to drive to find a beach.
There’s a beach for just about everyone:
Rugged, rough, rain-forested beaches: Visit the West Coast of the South Island
Soft, golden sand & clear water beaches: Check out the Tasman region in the top of the South Island, the gorgeous Coromandel region, and the Bay of Islands on the east coast of the North Island.
Excellent Surfing Beaches: Get yourself to Raglan, on the east coast, south of Auckland
Magical, Wild, Prehistoric Beaches with Black Sand and Waterfalls: Visit any of the beaches in the Waitakere ranges, West of Auckland
Scenic Fjords and Mountainous Backdrops: Get thee down to the far south of the South Island.
Clear waters, hidden beaches, lush forests full of glowworms and waterfalls – The Coromandel is a magical region in the North Island, a few hours drive from Auckland.
When people ask me my favourite region of New Zealand, or where they should visit, The Coromandel is usually the first answer out of my mouth.
It’s difficult in a land famed for scenery and nature to explain that these are the same reasons The Coromandel is so special. But, there is something wondrous about it that’s hard to describe.
Some of the best things to see & do on the Coromandel are:
Hot Water Beach is one of New Zealand’s most unique and famous beaches – come prepared with a shovel and dig yourself a hot pool in the sands. Sounds bizarre, but it’s pretty incredible!
On the topic of beaches, Cathedral Cove involves a bit of a walk but is well worth it to see the iconic rock archway and beautiful beach that lies ahead.
For the most incredible day trip to a thermal resort, try the magical Lost Spring
Dunedin is an underrated town in the South Island of New Zealand. Primarily known by locals as a student town, Dunedin is home to the University of Otago.
It is also interesting for a bunch of other reasons
It is a Scottish colony originally, the name Dunedin originates from Dùn Èideann, the Gaelic name for Edinburgh
But this isn’t the only reason Dunedin calls itself the Edinburgh of the South – the city was designed based on a map of the Edinburgh old city. You can compare the two maps here if you’re curious
Living on the Pacific Ring of Fire lends us to all kinds of geological activity, and unfortunately natural disasters too.
Most recently, my own hometown of Christchurch was taken down by a monstrous magnitude 7.2 earthquake, followed by a significant number of large and damaging aftershocks. 10 years on and the city is still rebuilding and recovering.
If you’re visiting Christchurch, the Quake City earthquake museum is the best way to get an insight into those difficult days. It’s a thoughtful and informative exhibit that anyone wanting to understand the forces that have shaped my city should visit and learn from.
When visiting New Zealand, it’s a great idea to brush up on earthquake safety so you feel comfortable knowing what to do in case you get caught in one. This is a great earthquake safety resource.
F is for Fox Glacier
Love Glaciers? New Zealand is a great place to visit some magnificent ones. The Fox Glacier is one of the most accessible glaciers in the world, so you don’t need special mountaineering equipment or a heli-trip to see it (although those are possible, too)
Yep, I said it. Giant Snails. I’ll give you a moment to process that before we move on.
Here in New Zealand we don’t have many creatures that are dangerous, or poisonous, or venomous. Instead, we have the magnificent Powelliphanta, or giant snail.
Found only in New Zealand, the Powelliphanta is a large, carnivorous snail that at its largest grows up to 9cm / 90g (so certainly not large enough to harm a human!)
Arriving into New Zealand, you may find yourself bewildered by some of our culinary terminology.
Fries, Chips, Crisps – all of these are called chips to us. I hear it gets confusing sometimes, but I promise it’s all about context.
Hotdogs + Corn Dogs = both hotdogs here (sometimes we we will call the variety in a bun an American hotdog for good measure) and what Americans call a corndog, is generally the kind of hotdog you’d find at a fish and chip shop.
Which brings me to my next point: Fish and Chips. A Kiwi staple, and you can get them in any neighbourhood, country wide. Watties Tomato Sauce is a must-have accompaniment (yep, we call ketchup sauce here)
And finally, any self respecting NZ burger comes with a slice of beetroot & a fried egg inside. It’s not weird, it’s delicious.
I is for island, the North Island, the South Island, and around 600 more!
New Zealand is not just a two or three island nation, despite what you may have been told! Actually, Aotearoa is made up of over 600 different islands!
Most of them are not inhabited (by humans, anyhow!)
Some of them are used as wildlife refuges for our native birdlife that need a little predator-free support, and some of them are even Volcanoes that you can explore, like the magnificent Rangitoto Island just off the coast of Auckland.
While it’s true we have three primary islands: The North Island (Te Ika-a-M?ui) , The South Island (Te Waipounamu), and Stewart Island (Rakiura); we do also have a number of other human inhabited islands:
The Other Islands of Aotearoa
Waiheke Island, just off the coast of Auckland City is a vibrant hub of vineyards , gorgeous beaches and a population over 9000 people.
Great Barrier Island (Aotea) is a little further afield, but still populated with around 850 permanent residents, liveable & beautiful to visit.
The Chatham Islands (R?kohu meaning Misty Sun in Moriori, or Wharekauri in M?ori) are not one island, but an archipelago with a resident population of over 600 people, an airport, and their own timezone.
The Marlborough Sounds are made up of a number of islands, including two inhabited ones: D’Urville Island (Rangitoto ki te Tonga) and Arapaoa Island.
Matakana Island in the Bay of Plenty is home to thousands of acres of farm, orchards, and native forests as well as around 225 people
Raoul Island in the Kermadec Island group is historically highly volcanic, and difficult to reach, yet still is home for to a government meteorological and radio station as well as a hostel for Department of Conservation (DOC) officers and volunteers who come to the island.
Kawau Island is not far from Auckland in the Hauraki Gulf, and although pretty small, is home to around 81 people.
Motiti Island (M?t?t?) is Northeast of Tauranga in the Bay of Plenty, and is made up of around 18 homes and an abundance of Avocado plantations.
J is for Jacinda and the New Zealand government
At the time of writing this, New Zealand is being led by a Labour government and the Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern – New Zealand’s youngest female Prime Minister being elected as Prime Minister at age 37, and also our first prime minister to be pregnant in office.. Most of us are pretty proud of her around here!
New Zealand is also pretty good with women’s rights & issues:
Jacinda is the third female to lead our country. We have also had two previous female prime ministers: Helen Clark + Jenny Shipley, with Jenny Shipley leading NZ back in 1997
New Zealand became the first nation in the world in which all women had the right to vote in parliamentary elections
Back in 1999 Georgina Beyer became the first transgender woman elected to parliament
K is for Kakapos, Keas & Kiwis
What Aotearoa lacks in large, land mammals it more than makes up in unique birdlife. The kakapo, kea and kiwi are three exceptions of native New Zealand birds found only here in Aoteroa
The Kiwi is what we are most famous for, but did you know we have 5 different types of Kiwi still alive today? They are in varying levels of endangers, and most New Zealanders may have only ever seen a Kiwi in a wildlife sanctuary as they are rare, shy, and difficult to spot in the wild.
Kakapos are a large, green, flightless parrot that is even more endangered and rare than the kiwi. In the mid nineties, we got down to as few as 50 kakapos known to be alive. Significant conservation efforts have gone into protecting the species, and thanks to homing them on predator free small islands managed by the department of conservation we are beginning to see more of these thriving.
Keas are ubiquitous, easy to find, and most definitely have the ability to fly – so these cheeky green parrots don’t share so much in common with the kakapo or the kiwi! But they are one of my favourite birds and are famous for hanging out in alpine passes and ski field parking lots and using their strong, pointy beaks to tear apart the cars of unsuspecting visitors.
L is for our Language: Sign, M?ori & New Zealand English
I’ve been asked (more than once) what language we speak here in New Zealand. The simplest answer would be English. This is the language that you will find spoken right across the country, with street signs and books and television shows primarily shown in.
However, New Zealand actually has 3 official languages :
New Zealand English
Te Reo (M?ori Language)
New Zealand Sign Language
All three have special legal status in the country, and this means that People have the right to speak Te Reo M?ori or New Zealand Sign Language in any legal proceedings. Which I think is pretty great.
M is for Matariki, the M?ori New Year.
In M?ori culture, the new year is celebrated in accordance with the stars. Matariki is a star cluster appearing through the mid winter months, in the early morning sky. When Matriki rises in the Northeast of the sky (this happens in the month of Pipiri, June-July in Aotearoa) the M?ori lunar calendar begins.
During Matariki, events take place across the country. People will gather to remember & honour their ancestors, play music, sing, tell stories and share food together.
For more information on Matariki, including the current year’s dates, the best stargazing spots in NZ, guides to Matariki events and information on each of the Matariki stars, check out this guide from 100% pure New Zealand
N is for Native New Zealand Forests
We are pretty proud of our forests and our trees, and for good reason – around 38% of the land in Aotearoa is covered in forest, with 8 million hectares of this forest being native forest.
Like birds, New Zealand has a lot of different native plant species that are considered unique, or special to us, and our native forests are generally one of two types:
Beech forests, which are made up of five different species of southern beech tree
Podocarp tree forests, which include kahikatea, miro, t?tara, mata?, and rimu trees
It’s thanks to our native trees & ferns that wandering around New Zealand has that distinct Lord of the Rings, or Fairyland-esque feel to it.
O is for Okarito, Waipoua Forest and Stewart Island – places to spot wild kiwis in Aotearoa
It’s true – spotting a kiwi bird is pretty rare! But it’s certainly not impossible. If you know where to look, there are a small selection of guided tours that will help you spot a wild NZ kiwi for real and become one of the lucky ones who gets to see the national symbol of Aotearoa.
Okarito – nestled away in the wild rainforests of the South Island’s West Coast, Okarito is a small town not too far from Franz Joseph. Okarito Kiwi Tours take small tours deep into kiwi territory to (if you’re lucky) spot wild kiwis, or at least hear their calls at night.
Waipoua Forest – up the other end of the country, in Northland at the top of the North Island is the forest sanctuary of Waipoua forest. Full of giant, ancient kauri trees you can also sometimes spot kiwis in this sub-tropical rainforest.
Stewart Island – For a really good chance of spotting a wild Kiwi, Steward Island is the place to go. The Wild Kiwi Encounter takes you on a cruise across Paterson Inlet to Little Glory Cove, where you can visit a secluded beach and spot kiwis.
P is for Pinot Noir
Here in New Zealand we produce some stunningly good wines. The most famous is undoubtedly Pinot Noir from Central Otago.
If you’re a fan of wine, then exploring our different wine regions is a great way to explore Aotearoa! You can see a guide to the wine regions of New Zealand at the New Zealand Wine site
I also recommend trying a wine tour! Whether you want to tour a small wine growing island (Waiheke has incredible wineries aplenty to discover) or cycle around central Otago on the wine trail, there are so many excellent and interesting wine tours in New Zealand. Check out Culture Trip’s Best Wine Tours in New Zealand for inspiration
Marlborough Vineyards in Autumn by Anna | Anna Meanders
Q is for Queenstown
Arguable one of New Zealand’s most well known cities, Queenstown is the capital of adventure tourism, skiing + snowboarding, and the infamous FergBurger.
Surrounded by some of the country’s most spectacular scenery, lakes, mountains, vineyards and adventure sports, it’s well worth a trip if you’re visiting New Zealand.
Thanks to the country lockdown in 2020, I was able to visit Queenstown with out all the tourists (which never happens!) and discovered for myself how truly beautiful this city is.
There is no better way to explore Aotearoa than a good ‘ol fashioned road trip. Here in New Zealand we have excellent roads, lots of beautiful places to stop, and a great road trip culture.
Unlike Australia or the United States, our country is a much more manageable size and you can see it all in less time!
Just don’t forget that we drive on the left here
Not sure where to go? Try one of these itineraries:
You’ve probably heard the rumours – more sheep than people. Well, that is true – but it’s not as true as it used to be.
As of 2019, Sheep outnumber people 5 to 1 which is still certainly more sheep than people, but nothing compared to the 1980’s where we had as many as 22 sheep for each one person!
But driving around New Zealand you will definitely see plenty of sheep, and lots of great wool products too.
I’m a big fan of NZ superfine merino, and love using Icebreaker clothes for my travels as the merino is cool in the summer, warm in the winter, doesn’t hold odour, doesn’t wrinkle, and is all round an excellent fabric for travelwear.
T is for Thermal reserves & Hot springs
Personally, I’m a touch obsessed with Maruia Springs, found in the gorgeous Maruia Valley a few hours outside of Christchurch, it’s one of my favourites.
I can’t get enough of time spent relaxing in the outdoor onsen styled rock pools, soaking up the minerals and listening to the birds in the forest and the river streaming by.
But New Zealand has a multitude of different natural hot pools, for all different styles, budgets, and occasions. Some of the best (other than Maruia, of course) include:
Even though the summer temperatures don’t get as high as other parts of the world, our UV strength is super high, and just how quickly people sunburn here catches many a visitor off guard.
To put it into perspective, our UV rating in the summer is frequently around 12, but it can exceed 13 in the far North which is considered extreme. As an approximate guide, a UV Index of corresponds to a burn time of around the same amount of minutes – so you will burn in around 12 minutes on a typical Kiwi summer day!
It’s important to wear a good sunscreen, and reapply it frequently (and after any time in the water) as well as sunglasses and a good hat if you’re out and about here in the summer months.
V is for Volcanoes
New Zealand is exceptionally volcanic, and you can see a list of the different volcanoes here. Just in the Auckland volcanic field alone there are over 50 volcanoes, which dot around the landscape of the city, mostly dormant and providing grassy hills for picnics and jogging.
There are also a number of active volcanoes in the country, currently the most notorious is the Whakaari / White Island due to a recent eruption killing 21 and injuring a further 26 visitors to the volcanic island
All of the volcanic activity makes New Zealand a great spot for researching, and recently Scientists here have invented a new volcano warning system that looks really promising for preventing future disaster.
W is for Waitomo Glow Worm Caves
Beloved by all tourists are the Waitomo glow worm caves . If you’re looking for a magical, otherworldly experience this one tops the list.
You can take a guided walk through the Ruakuri and Aranui Caves, a magical boat ride on the cave canals of the Waitomo Glow Worm cave, or float through the magical starlit grotto on an innertube (known as blackwater rafting) through the black labyrinth – these caves are massive, wondrous, and truly spectacular.
Thanks to the significantly volcanic history of Aotearoa, laced with earthquakes and geothermal activity, it is a great place to explore for geology buffs out there.
There are a number of great museums in the country to discover more:
The Crystal Mine Museum in Auckland houses New Zealand’s largest selection of rare crystals and minerals
The University of Otago Geology Museum is open to the public and contains the largest scientifically important collections of rocks, minerals and fossils in the South Island
We need to talk about yams. What you call yams, are not what we call yams.
Confused yet? Good. Let me add another layer to this – what you call yams, we call k?mara and they come in all shades of purples, blues, oranges and blacks.
What we call yams are actually thumb sized & shaped, and are also known as South American Oca. They are very delicious and I highly recommend trying them roasted for the best New Zealand yam experience.
New Zealand Yams (left) and New Zealand Yams amongst other roasting vegetables (right)
Z is for Zealand
The name New Zealand comes from the Dutch ‘Nieuw Zeeland’, this is the name that was given to us by a Dutch mapmaker – why Dutch? That’s a great question.
As it turns out, The first European to arrive on New Zealand shores was an explorer by the name of Abel Tasman. He was Dutch, and thus how the Europeans labelled the country as New Zealand on their maps.
If you were wondering, the original Zealand, or Zeeland it is the westernmost (and the least populous) province of the Netherlands.
Have you been dreaming of a luxury railway journey across foreign lands? Delectable curries, silver service, and a turndown service each night? Bad news my friend – keep searching, as the Indian Railways Sleeper Class is definitely not what you’ve been looking for.
On the other hand – if real, authentic experiences are what you’re seeking, then I have just the ticket for you (quite literally)
Welcome to Indian Railways, Sleeper Class.
I get it, sleeper class sounds kind of exotic – an overnight train. I also had misguided visions of the orient express from time to time. However, sleeper class is the second-to-last tier in a list of different cabins available and affords a budget ticket price and a chance to experience a more normal standard of Indian life.
Benefits of Sleeper Class:
You get to hang out with families, and learn about the local culture.
There is no air conditioning, which means the breeze comes through the open windows which is quite nice!
There’s so much vibrancy, noise, sounds & music – this cabin is so much more alive than the AC cabins above it.
Street vendors are allowed to enter this part of the train, so you are frequented with the friendly neighbourhood chaiwallah and other tasty snacks & drinks throughout your journey.
Pitfalls of Sleeper Class:
It can be really crowded. Although you will get the bunk to yourself overnight, during the day each bench sits 3-5 people and it can be quite the squeeze.
There is no air conditioning – which some people really prefer.
The vibrancy, noise, sounds & music can be intense at times, and if you’re looking for a very peaceful, quiet, relaxing trip then this can impede upon that
The security isn’t as tight – because street vendors are hopping on and off, and because the seats are so busy with people, there can be a lot more petty theft so it’s important to be extra vigilant with your belongings.
Welcome aboard – I expect if this is your first time in India, then you might not have laid eyes upon something as well-run and efficient, yet so insane and chaotic, as the Indian railways.
During my time in Northern India I spent around 40 hours navigating the overnight Rajasthan railway systems, and I can happily report I had (mostly) wonderful experiences, and it was the best way to really experience Indian culture and life. The key is to be well prepared in advance, and know what to expect. It makes all the difference, and seriously arms you for an enjoyable rail journey around the state of Rajasthan (or anywhere in India, for that matter!)
Rajasthan Rail Travel Route
During my one month journey into the popular Northern state of Rajasthan, I caught 4 different overnight trains (and numerous daytime ones & busses too)
Took the 6 hour JSL express from Delhi to Jaipur class: sleeper price: 205 rs. time: 1735-2335
Then the 12 hour JSL express from Jaipur to Jaisalmer class: AC3 but upgraded to AC2 price: 905rs time: 2335-1135
The 5 hour Leelan Express from Jaisalmer to Bikaner class: sleeper price: 268 rs. time: 23:55-05:20
And finally the ~15 hour BKN HW Special from Bikaner to Haridwar class: sleeper price: 508 rs. time: 19:45-10:25
Despite having traveled via train across numerous countries, all of my locomotive experience at this point had been during the day (needless to say, this was before my Overland Asia adventure). To say the least, I was super excited to spend my first overnight night on the rails!
New Delhi station is huge and chaotic. As I had no particular travel plans, just a glimmer of an idea, I didn’t book a ticket in advance. It took me quite a lot of wandering around this massive station to find the tourist office, but in the end I found it.
The ticket I wanted to take me through to Jaisalmer was not available, so on a whim I picked up a cheap, last minute ticket to Jaipur instead.
My train left from Old Delhi station, rather than New Delhi where I was.
Pro Tip: It’s a good thing to pay careful attention to the particular station you need to depart from – there’s often more than one in big cities
Passing time wandering around the area of Old Delhi was hot and sweaty, topped off by loads of dust and an abundance of over-enthusiastic touts and hawkers.
I sat down on a rickety plastic table and gorged myself on 40r rupee all-you-can-eat thali.
There was no WiFi around and I had no plan for my midnight arrival into Jaipur.
Scattered moments and view from inside the sleeper class carriage
Making a Plan – Not So Easy without WiFI
Once at the platform I found a McDonalds and sat outside it to get some WiFi. Luckily for me, a sweet young McDonalds worker spied me and came outside to usher me in. No purchase needed, in fact he even used his Indian phone number to register me on the WiFi
Pro Tip: Free WiFi is available in most Indian train stations, but you will need an Indian phone number to activate it.
I managed to book myself into Zostel in Jaipur and message a friend of mine staying there, asking him to advise the reception of my late arrival.
India Trains: Sometimes Early, Sometimes Very, Very Late
Before I knew it I was starting to run late. Time to rush to the platform. By the time I arrive, guys are taking down the reservations paperwork from the boards. They speak no English but signal to me that the train just left. Feeling exhausted and defeated I head to the newsagents, informing the vaguely English speaking guy that my train left 10mins early. What do I do? No. It hasn’t left, it turns out. Just a different platform that’s not mentioned on any of the signs.
Useful to Note: I have since met people who’ve missed trains because they did in fact leave early. Up to two hours early. (And sometimes they are late by as much at 8 or 9 hours, too) Always check the running times earlier in the day on the Indian Railways website or Cleartrip app!
Boarding the Train into Sleeper Class
These trains are seriously long, with carriages stretching out toward the horizon. Where do I sit? I pondered, wondering in and out of various carriages, getting sent every-which-way by other passengers. A mess of arms and pointing fingers leading me in a slew of different directions.
Without so much as a whistle, the train starts rolling away.. So, like something out of a bad film, I grab a handrail and haul myself on board just as it pulls out of the station.
After much wandering and enquiring I finally find my carriage. It’s a old, rickety, and made up of mostly chains and bars, but it’s clean enough.
I get a rush of excitement.. there’s nobody else here, maybe get this berth to myself! No such luck, as people pack in over the next few stations. 4-5 people each bench, piled up on the higher beds. Once we’re snuggly fitted into our spots, we begin to roll out through slums. The atmosphere both in and outside of the carriage is colourful and alive.
The lack of air conditioning on board is fine with the breeze coming through the window. The sun begins to set and I settle in to enjoy a book. It’s a little cramped and I’m thankful for my three bottles of water and window seat. Later in the evening they will come to pull down the beds, and it won’t be so busy.
A bunk to myself is luxury and I stretch out to enjoy the ride – my first experience travelling sleeper class.
Key tips & takeaways for sleeper class travel:
You can often get last minute seats by being flexible and checking into the tourist counter on the day
Beware of touts who try and convince you not to go to the tourist desk
Check your PNR on the Clear trip or Indian Rail app a few times in advance for signs of trains running early (yes, it happens) late (considerably, often) or for spontaneous upgrades to your ticket
Things to bring when travelling sleeper class:
Make sure to bring a chain or bikelock to lock your back safely away while you sleep. Tip: I have a simple plastic-coated bike lock which does a fantastic job, and costs a fraction of the price of speciality travel-locks from travel stores. This is one item you can definitely cut costs on.
Sleeper class is an excellent way to experience the real India experience, but BYO blankets and pillows! Tip: If you’re limited on space (like me) I take a pillowcase or laundry bag and stuff it full of my clean scarves and sweaters to create a pillow on the go.
My sleeping liner is an absolute godsend. It provides a safe space to curl up in, and provides added privacy as your legs won’t pop out in the night. Tip: I have a bug-proof treated one that is antibacterial and has a pocket inside to keep my important smaller bits and pieces safe and secure. I currently have a cotton one, which works well, but the silk ones are even nicer (and way smaller/lighter)
Except on certain routes,food is not provided. The selections at the train station are lacking in imagination, so bring something tasty of your own.
View out the window leaving Old Delhi train station
Useful Sites, Blogs & Apps:
Cleartrip – A must-have for foreign visitors, simplifies the booking system with an easy-to-use app, and lets you book using international credit cards. You’ll still need an IRCRS account to use it, however.
IRCRS – The official Indian Railways ticket booking website. You’ll need to sign up here to book any trains through the internet (or for using other apps such as cleartrip) But can be clunky and difficult to navigate. Once registered you’re better off moving over to a more user friendly app.
Confirmtkt – Ultimate in useful apps for booking waitlist tickets, or finding alternate routes (including busses). Uses a fantastic algorithm to calculate the chances of you getting on a particular train, and also provides a host of other handy features such as setting an alarm for when the train pulls into your desired station.
My borderline obsession with railway journeys was a seed planted by my father. Moving overland feels like you’re putting in the miles to get somewhere. It gives you a sense of time and space, a glimpse of the legwork required to traverse between two places.
Trans Mongolia Express, Departing from Beijing
Up until this point I’d taken some overnight and long distance trains, but nothing which was quite as well known as the Trans-Mongolian. On first impressions, the train is exactly how one would expect. Forest green, each carriage embossed in gold with its final destination. A long beast of a locomotive that knows its place as one of the world’s greatest railways.
Much unlike its Chinese counterparts, hard sleeper is soft and somewhat luxurious. Each sleeper cabin houses 2 sets of bunks, and we got the good luck of no room-mates for our entire journey, leaving us with an entire cabin to ourselves.
The halls are narrow with intermittent fold down single chairs and coveted electrical outlets, perfect for recharging phones and kindles throughout such a long journey. Long doesn’t even quite describe it – We booked in to travel for 26 hours. The train would continue on without us for another 5 days through Siberia and on to St Petersburg and Moscow.
A Cozy Carriage Home for Two
A sliding door reveals our home for the night – a cozy cabin with a large window, a luxurious twowhole blankets per person, and a table situated between the two bottom berths. Where each carriage joins to the next houses a bathroom, hot-water boiler for topping up endless cup noodles and flasks of jasmine tea, and a coal range stove to heat the carriages through the wintery depths of Siberia.
After making ourselves comfortable, the cabin attendant arrived with a voucher for two complimentary meals in the dining cart. A welcome surprise.
The cart ambled out of the station, and we began to inch our way out of Beijing city & toward the Chinese border. We were treated to forest green hills with deep creases etched in, cavernous gorges, valleys and bright yellow fields of blossoming rapeseed as the sprawling metropolis of Beijing faded into the distance.
A Journey from China to Mongolia
As we approached the Gobi, mainland China gave way to Inner Mongolia (deceptively named, it is still a part of China). The landscapes morphed into dusty vistas. Small villages feature dilapidated camel-coloured houses, co-ordinated to match the surrounding sands. Disappearing deeper into China’s final frontier, we were enveloped by an orange sunset dissolving into an inky sky, and the ominous silhouettes of wind turbines before finally lurching into darkness.
The dining cart resembled an old film. Regal, foreign and heaving with people grasping meal vouchers, fluttering in the breeze. The first day’s meals are included, and then you’re on your own. Fine by me, I thought, as remembered that we would be departing the following day. Whisked away in a manner of efficiency not uncommon in China, we were wedged into the next two available seats. Moments later a hurried waiter appeared, serving up a plate of flavourful vegetables on rice. After a rushed dinner, I retired to the cabin with my latest purchase under my arm – a cheap bottle of unusually flavoured Great Wall wine to complement our equally unusual bottle of Chinese Plum Wine (spoiler alert : nothing at all like the delicious Japanese plum wine I’d been hoping for)
China, Mongolia, Russia – One Train, Three Different Types of Track
In the glow of questionable Chinese alcohol and an evening of trying to remember card games, I drifted off to sleep in my bottom bunk, somewhere before the Mongolian frontier. One of the curiosities of this particular journey is the varying sizes of tracks between the three travelled countries. The bigger question is why they haven’t invested the time and money in remedying this. Instead, with each crossing, three hours is spent hoisting the train up, carriage by carriage, and changing the entire wheelset.
For many arriving unprepared, it is at this precise moment where hilarity ensues (for readers and spectators, that is).
As the train heads for a wheelbase change, it first stops at a station platform with a small, enticing cafe. Many an unsuspecting tourist has hopped off, to be left in dismay as the train pulls away. Without a word of warning, it leaves the passengers stranded for hours in the night, unsure if it will ever return for them. Eventually, it does. Leaving a trail of legends whispered through the carriage.. “don’t get off at the border station cafe”.
Snoozing through the border crossing
I dozed as customs and quarantine officers came in to pick up and drop off various paperwork. Each time opening the door and leaving the light on as they leave. The visitors subsided and I drifted off into a very comfortable sleep for the night.
Light peered through the window and I craned my head up to check that I wasn’t missing anything. It was before dawn and I was in time to catch the moon setting outside my window. Venturing out into the carriage hall, I stopped to watch the sunrise out of the other side of the cabin, warming myself by the roaring coal range. The temperatures in the Gobi desert were well below zero, but the train was so well heated, I never even used the thick extra blanket.
Corridor-of-trans-mongolia-train
Wheel changing time!
More wheel changing
Arrival into Ulaanbataar
The rest of the journey was relaxing and uneventful. A brand new dining cart awaited us for breakfast – it’s not just the wheels they change here. The car is of traditional Mongolian style, with intricate dark wood carving and Mongolian artwork. A new menu has appeared with its prices in Tugriks. I enjoy many coffees and fried eggs on toast while watching the Mongolia desert stream past.
As we got closer to Ulaanbaatar, the view became less sparse. Tiny, weary villages; herds of horses and the odd speck of a nomadic Ger or two materialize out the window. As we careened past frozen rivers it was difficult not to imagine that this is the kind of country where time moves differently.
After another few hours of rolling, sparse grasslands and frozen rivers, we slowed our pace and rolled into UlanBaatar station, the capital city of Mongolia, where we were being met outside our carriage & escorted over to our rental apartment for the week.
Kathmandu wasn’t exactly love at first sight, well at least not in my case. I’d ridden a thirty-six hour bus trip through the Himalayan foothills from Delhi, vomiting out the window the entire way .
It had been some bad chicken the day before, It tasted like mud and rotting flesh. I only had a few mouthfuls but I knew already I’d made a poor move. Nevertheless, my Indian visa was about to expire and I had no choice but to board that bus.
As it turns out, Kathmandu is a vibrant metropolis where old meets new and bicycle rickshaw drivers peddle past goats grazing trash outside the most delicious of restaurants.
Like my own hometown, it is a city that is overcoming natural disaster, rebuilding after literally earth-shattering quakes brought this majestic city to its knees.
All in all, I spent over a month in Nepal – dipping in and out of Kathmandu, drinking in all the wonderful food, culture, and hospitality. But it took only a day of exploring to fall in love with it.
While drifting in these lanes of Thamel, you feel like Alice in Wonderland, The feelings of Paarijat linger as an epiphany and the smoke and aroma of incense sticks welcome you into a dream land.
“Oh, you’re a writer?”, he nudged. I was somewhat limp in the passenger seat, making my way out of the hospital and bound for my central city hostel. “Here in Nepal we value writers, it is a good profession” .
It was dusk, and the street vendors were setting up on the side of the road as our taxi stopped and started amidst the evening rush hour. Aside from a churning stomach, it felt good here – relaxed, friendly. A different pace of life from India where I had recently arrived from. He was kind, and reserved, and I eased into a little gentle chatter en route to my Thamel accomodation.
The first thing most tourists learn about Kathmandu is that Thamel is the main tourist-area. It’s where you’ll find the most shopping, bazaars, hotels and restaurants in Kathmandu. Kathmandu is serviced by an International Airport, although as I did, you can also reach the city via bus from India (Delhi, Varanasi and Gorakpur are the most common places to leave from). At the time of writing, the roads to Tibet are still closed, and Nepal only shares a land border with these two countries so these are your choices. Nepal has no trains(well none useful to visitors, anyhow) so getting around is by bus, car and taxi.
My hostel took wonderful care of me, feeding me vegetable broth and mashed potatoes until my stomach healed, upgrading my room and providing marvelous vistas across the city from its rooftop.
Other than a rather rocky start, I quickly came to love Kathmandu and would recommend it to anyone looking for somewhere a little different to get away to for a day, or much longer.
When to Visit Kathmandu
October is Autumn , and the peak season for visiting all of Nepal. The weather is mild and the air is clear from recent monsoons. It is dry but not too cold at night, and generally warm and sunny during the day. It also features Tihar and Dashain, the two main Nepalese festivals of the year. So if you like the atmosphere, this is an excellent time to come over. If you want to avoid the festivals and throngs of tourists, then the springtime, from March until May, is a fabulous time to experience the rhododendrons and other blossoming flowers of Nepal. June-August is summer and also monsoon, so come bearing raincoats! December – February is winter, it can be very cold and snow (but not in Kathmandu). However it can also be very scenic and good for low altitude trekking,
What to do while you’re here
Kathmandu is an interesting city to explore, and has a number of areas, temples and markets to explore. Some of the key things to do in Kathmandu are:
Hiking, of course! This is one of the main reasons many people visit Nepal, and for good reason – it’s spectacular! There is a lot of hiking in Nepal and you can do it alone, just remember to be safe.
Visit Durbar Square to explore historic temples and the temple of the living goddess, although Durbar square is working through some long term earthquake renovations, it is an incredible place to visit. Lining the square are a number of rooftop patio restaurants and bars with wonderful views, too.
Stroll the Garden of Dreams for a soothing spot of tranquility amongst the chaos of the city. It’s kind of an oasis, and is well worth checking out after you’re a little burned out from the thamel bustle.
Check out Swayambhunath Temple & Boudhanath Stupa to see some of the more ornate and spiritual sites of Kathmandu.
Shop for handicrafts in Thamel. Some of the popular wares include pashminas, yak wool blankets, bone, wood and glass jewellery, wooden musical instruments and puppets. I’m not much of a souvenir collector, but was absolutely charmed b the puppets dangling from strings all about the town.
If you only eat 3 dishes in Kathmandu…
Food is absolutely my thing, my motivation you could say. A huge part of the reason I travel is to taste the local foods. Kathmandu is a hub of food and I loved every moment.
Momos, momos, everywhere. Momos are one of my favourite dumplings, and as the years go by I am in perpetual pursuit of momos as good as I found on the streets of Kathmandu (spoiler alert, no such luck) you can find them fried, steamed, or my favourite version: Chilli Momo – doused in a chilli sauce or soup. You can find them just about anywhere, but my favourite come from the street cart vendors.
Nepalese Thali Plate
Simi Nariwal. Simi means green beans, nariwal means coconut – combined with some curry paste and served on rice it’s something magical. My favourite is found out in Pokhara, but there’s certainly some good Simi Nariwal to be had in Kathmandu, so seek it out!
Chilli Momos
Nepalese Thali
Simi Narawal
Where did I stay?
Kathmandu is the hub of Nepal and there are no shortages of accommodation, especially within the area of Thamel. It is definitely possible to turn up and look for somewhere to stay once you arrive. However, if you feel more comfortable booking in advance, I can personally recommend:
Katshmandap Travelers Home: What I believe to be the best hostel in Kathmandu, great for dorm-style living and meeting other travelers. I arrived here after a traumatic long bus journey with food poisoning that resulted in a few nights in the hospital. Katshmandap moved me into a private room at no extra charge, and checked on me every day to make sure I was recovering well – I will never forget the generosity or hospitality, nor how safe and cared for I felt during my recovery.
Bright Star Hotel: It’s the owners that made Bright Star hotel so special for me – in fact, I stayed twice. Once on my own, then again when my family came to visit Nepal. We were treated with so much kindness, and they have private rooms at a good price. Clean and safe and super central in Thamel, but down a side road so few steps out of the way from the noise & chaos
Papaya House: Unbelievably good value and gorgeous, comfortable, clean rooms. Good WiFi too. A little out of the way so you need to catch taxis or local busses to get just about anywhere, but it’s great to experience a more local neighborhood of Kathmandu.
So, what was my experience in Kathmandu like?
Nepal is home to some of the friendliest people I’ve ever met in my travels. The hospitality is exceptional. I felt perpetually welcomed and at home, everywhere I went.
Kathmandu is an amazing city to explore, although rather compact and small. After a few days you may feel that you’ve seen it all, although I feel pretty confident you won’t have! There’s so much hidden around every corner, and down each alleyway.
The city is in a valley and the pollution is some of the highest in the world. Some people struggle with this, but personally it didn’t bother me much.
The city has an amazing blend of Nepalese, Indian, Tibetan and Chinese Influence, so the food is diverse and the atmosphere much more relaxed than in neighbouring India. Don’t forget to eat the momos!
Thamel is one of the best spots in all of Nepal for well-priced handicrafts, so shop it up if you want some souvenirs to send back home (or keychains & clothes if you’re trying to keep a small suitcase)
Who would I recommend Kathmandu to?
I enthusiastically recommend Kathmandu to everyone who will listen. It’s a wonderful destination for anybody who wants to be near excellent trekking, or experience a more chilled-out version of India. Kathmandu still has the amazing culture, vibrancy and delicious foods, curries and festivals like India, but without so much of the things that can make it overwhelming. You don’t even need to be into trekking – it wasn’t at all a part of my trip, and yet I loved every moment.
This year has bought along with it a whole lot less travel, and much more reading about it in travel blogs instead – well, I don’t know about you, but that’s certainly been the case for me!
But what am I reading for inspiration right now? Here’s a few interesting travel bloggers writing about places, and experiences, that I’ve been adding to my return-to-travel 2021 (fingers crossed) wish list
With a focus on Asian destinations, Eoghan and Jili of the Two Birds Breaking Free travel blog have me seriously wanderlusting after some parts of India I’d never even heard of.
James has a pretty sweet blog focused on the digital nomad life that I myself have been living since 2014 (I’m a baby at it in comparison!)
Currently, James is based in Vietnam and providing fascinating guides on the country that has been helping me develop some future plans to finally make it to Vietnam and visit (once it’s safe to do so, of course)! I am especially curious about what Hoi An must be like without tourists.
The Lost Passport refers to itself as Your Ultimate Southeast Asia Travel Guide and woah, that’s totally true. I’ve visited, lived in, and fallen in love with Southeast Asia so many times over the years, but nothing I’ve experienced compares to the detailed guides and info that Josh is putting out over here.
I’ve been lusting after Thailand recently, even though I was only just there in February! I think The Lost Passport’s Guide to Koh Lipe has me inspired to check out this little island that’s been on my radar for a while now.
I had been enjoying Nomadic Samuel’s blog in the past, but somehow it totally slipped off my radar and I’ve had the joy of rediscovering it all over again!
Sam posts really interesting and informative content, and this Emilia-Romagna guide for foodies has me dreaming of planning another Euro trip next summer to indulge my tastebuds in some amazing Italian cuisine.
Being a Kiwi myself, I love reading people’s experiencing of NZ – and then learning that the awesome Rania is from Thessaloniki(where I’ve spent a lot of time & it feels like home for me) then moved to New Zealand for a long while (my home country) made me even more fascinated to keep reading this pretty awesome blog and follow Rania’s adventures.
I have a particular soft spot for 52 in Kicks because of the beautiful site design, but also because Agata & Sean write about some of my favourite places & I’m loving reminiscing.
David set off on an overland journey in 2005, and is still going now – this website is one of the most comprehensive guides, especially to Nepal, Asia and Overland travel I have encountered and I am loving every moment of it.
My own overland Asia journey pales in comparison to the incredible journeys documented on the Longest Way home, and it’s so inspiring to read.
I’ve been finding it fascinating to learn how different parts of the world are working with the current pandemic situation, and the post Will Nepal Open for Trekking and Tourism is a really fascinating insight into how the situation there is right now.
What are your favourite travel blogs this month? What else should I be checking out to satiate all this pent up wanderlust? Let me know in the comments!
Beijing existed in my mind as an abstract painting, fragments taken from my late father’s many tales of arriving in this mysterious land. Visions of tranquil ancient penzai gardens danced with the buzz of a post-modern metropolis. The city was all these things at once and still somehow more; a breathing, gyrating, living contrast to itself.
The tales from my father I had collected over time, gorging myself on them over and over until China had become a world almost entirely constructed in my imagination. When he died, I grasped those memories even tighter, desperate to seek out these corners of the world that he treasured so.
Home to some of China’s most famous landmarks: the forbidden city, the Great Wall and endless blossom gardens, temples and tea houses. A gentle gateway into the cultures of the far East. Yet Beijing was, as I found all of China, nothing as I had expected.
My entrance was uneventful, I braced for public transport chaos, yet the trip through the metro system and into the hive of Beijing was remarkably simple. The city itself was not the throbbing hum of relentless crowds and mind-boggling skyscrapers, and many of the inner city suburbs provided a tranquil space to stroll, uninterrupted, along the magnificent walls, structures and ancient housing of the gentle tree lined streets.
I stayed for a week, living close to all the things one might want. To my great pleasure we discovered a superb restaurant serving up cold noodles from the Shanxi region of Northern China. Chilled noodles tossed in sesame oil with spiralised cucumber, peanuts and chilli. A dish that would linger favourably in my memory for many months to come.
Quite the opposite of the cold jellied pig foot that has become the epitome of things I dislike of the Chinese cuisine, an anecdote not dissimilar to the stories my father would share with us as children, of bizarre foods lost in translation from his business trips into China – a fond memory full of love and belly laughs.
I explored the ornate, leafy slopes of the imperial Jingshan Park, with its twenty three manicured hectares of peach blossoms and gardens of budding peonies. A tranquil getaway overlooking the chaotic beating heart of the forbidden city below. I took a stroll through the infamous Tiananmen square, whisked away into a feeling of communist times past – a jaw dropping expanse of grey. Stony faced military guarded and the Chinese flag was high and we were overlooked by the most well known of Chinese leaders, including the notorious Chairman Mao.
Wriggling scorpions and starfish lay immortalised on skewers, impaled and displayed and perhaps eventually eaten. Or more likely disposed of, as despite throngs of selfie-wielding tourists flocking to capture the bizarre delicacies, there were very few actually eating them.
I speculated on the validity of these delicacies, and questioned whether perhaps this has all come about for the shock-factor of tourists, as I had not seen the more local parts of China feasting on such things.
Much like Cambodia, the country has come about times of extreme poverty & famine. In these challenging time the people were driven to eat whatever protein sources they could find, insects proved a life-sustaining meal. Necessity, not delicacy.
Beijing is famous for having a world class aquarium, an impressive building housed on the fringes of the sprawling Beijing Zoo. For two large attractions that are one-in-the-same land, they do not bear a striking resemblance. The Zoo was on a beautiful and large piece of land with blossoming trees and a massive variety of exotic animals. However, the care of the animals ranged from the desolate and heartbreaking through to the well cared for and clean. I’ve never had such mixed feelings on such a place. Charging merely a few coins to get in, I ponder why they wouldn’t raise admission and put more time and money into the upkeep.
The Aquarium, however, costs many many times more and it shows. Gorgeous, clean and modern with incredibly exhibits and well cared for fish. An unusual contrast, providing a reflection of China as a whole.
The visit was capped off with samplings of Peking Duck, the most magical set under a sea of ferry lights on a warm spring night, seated next to the glass windows peering through to the preparation room.
My fifteen year old self at the time was incapable of imagining the delight of this dish, the importance of when and how it is served, nor the imagination to comprehend how a pancake may be involved in all of this. Yet my father persisted – planting ideas and memories I would come to treasure for many years to come.
